need help to install new steering wheel

[500Espot]

Postby Rudy on Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:51 pm

Hello,
bought me a new nicer sportline steering wheel which is supposed to fit 90 to 95 W124 models. Mine is a 92 500E.
The indy shop told me they cant connect horn (signal) and airbag.
On the back of the new one there are issues with carbon and spring.
I really have no idea what he meant.
So: do I have to return it or can I get some parts from the dealer to have it put on?
Any ideas, recommandations, hints??

Thanks,
Rudy

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Postby Glen on Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:56 pm

You should be able to transfer the necessary parts from your original wheel.

Glen Tokuhara

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Postby Rudy on Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:05 am

Hi Glen,
thanks. Good news.
Why didn't the shop know it? Its a MB/BMW shop.
They only wanna make some extra hours?
Anyway, good to know I did not waste 300 Euro.

Thanks again,

Rudy

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Postby 2phast on Sat Dec 13, 2008 6:12 am

Wow, another 500e owner that has not visited my site, shame on you :down:

Ok, so your shop does not know much about MB steering wheels and what is necessary to install them, nothing suprising there.

Everything you need to know about this installation is here

www.2phast.com/500e/

Go to the interior updates section and scroll down till you come to the steering wheel upgrade, scroll past the Burl/leather steering wheel install till you get to the E55 wheel.

Better yet, have your shop visit my page, :dancings:

2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E

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Postby gsxr on Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:44 pm

I'd find a new shop. Any MB tech with even HALF a clue should know this.


Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.

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Postby Rudy on Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:31 pm

well I thought so. I would understand, if may be a trainee wouldn't know, but the shop foreman called me and ruined my day.
The only reason I have chosen them is, because they are 5 walking minutes form my work place.
Otherwise I would go to Robert Fenton.
I am wondering, whether they will try to sell me a new contact ring for $200 or more.

I'll keep you posted and will make pictures when installed.

Thanks again,

Rudy

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Postby 2phast on Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:27 am

Rudy wrote:well I thought so. I would understand, if may be a trainee wouldn't know, but the shop foreman called me and ruined my day.
The only reason I have chosen them is, because they are 5 walking minutes form my work place.
Otherwise I would go to Robert Fenton.
I am wondering, whether they will try to sell me a new contact ring for $200 or more.

I'll keep you posted and will make pictures when installed.

Thanks again,

Rudy



You said you have a 92 500e, so you don't need a new contact ring. All that is needed is to transfer your contact ring from your original steering wheel to this new steering wheel. Its a simple procedure, as the wheel your installing is the same design and uses the same airbag, shouldn't be any fab or mods needed at all.

Take off your old contact ring like so...


Remove filler ring from your new steering wheel



Install contact ring into new steering wheel



Making sure your wires align and come through similar to this



2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E

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Postby Rudy on Sun Dec 21, 2008 7:46 pm

thanks for the explanations!
I think they forgot to the install the filter ring (the black plastic ring).

First the shop returned the old one without the bracket. Asking for it they also returned the black plastic ring (filter ring). Is that in important part, because I think its not installed?

But it looks nice.

Rudy

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Postby gsxr on Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:21 pm

That sure does look nice!

BTW, I see you have manual, dual-zone climate control... I'm very jealous! I would LOVE to have that setup instead of the blasted automatic, single-zone setup that MBNA forced upon us. I like your updated radio, too! What other goodies are on your Euro-spec car? It should also have the factory oil cooler, etc...



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Postby 2phast on Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:08 pm

Rudy wrote:thanks for the explanations!
I think they forgot to the install the filter ring (the black plastic ring).

First the shop returned the old one without the bracket. Asking for it they also returned the black plastic ring (filter ring). Is that in important part, because I think its not installed?

But it looks nice.

Rudy



The black plastic ring comes off so that you can install your OE horn contact ring. The black plastic ring is no longer needed, but you should keep it in case you decide to sell the wheel to someone with a 94-95 model car.

2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E

 

[Seangbadee]

I went to a JY to get a steering wheel off a 1994 E320 wagon and everything was a breeze till i got to the 10 hex. I used a 10 hex bit with a 3/8 drive, broke two extensions, almost lost some teeth, and ended up twisting the bolt, without getting it off
Frustrated I left the JY after 39 minutes of trying. The only thing I gained was a higher BP.
What did I miss?

 

[gsxr]

That bolt is NOT fun to remove.

Best option: 1/2" impact wrench (either cordless or air), this should zip it out in the blink of an eye.

Next option: 1/2" breaker bar with the shortest extensions that still allow access to the bolt.

 

[Seangbadee]

That bolt is NOT fun to remove.

Best option: 1/2" impact wrench (either cordless or air), this should zip it out in the blink of an eye.

Next option: 1/2" breaker bar with the shortest extensions that still allow access to the bolt.

Should I hammer first and turn clockwise before trying to loosen it?
I don't have a 1/2 inch impact around here.

 

[Seangbadee]

I just ordered a 1/2 inch drive 10mm hex bit off Amazon.
Delivery in 3 days; that'lll give my BP a few days to normalize before I go in for round 3.

 

[NCCoder]

You can do it! That bolt was scary tight, but it will come off.

 

[luckymike]

It's easy! I've pulled the steering wheels on all three of our cars, 1989 560SEL, 1989 560SEC and 1995 E420. Here's what I do:

The trick is to find a way to keep the steering wheel from moving so you can apply a short, sharp shock to the bolt. I use either a 2x4 of the proper length, or a length of pipe, whatever I have around. The board or pipe is placed vertically on the floor mat and under the left lower spoke of the wheel so that the wheel is prevented from turning counterclockwise. I turn the wheel slightly to the right so that spoke is almost horizontal. Be sure your steering lock is not engaged. I use a folded rag between the board and the spoke to prevent damage to the wheel.

Now, using a quality, tight-fitting 10mm allen, insert it fully into the bolt. I use a 1/2" breaker bar with, I believe, a 3" extension, adapter and my 3/8 drive allen. You want the minimum length here so the breaker bar just clears the rim of the steering wheel as gsxr says. No extra length on the extension which could compromise direct force on the fastener. Position the breaker bar at about 9:00 or whatever position affords you the most secure and confident application of sudden and deliberate, follow-through force. I stand outside the car.

When you're mentally ready, support the far end of the breaker bar with your right hand so it doesn't bend downward when you apply your force. Use an assistant if you want both hands on the breaker bar. Give the business end of the breaker bar a quick, deliberate, forceful and confident crack in a counterclockwise direction. Think 'through' the bolt, knowing it will give. Follow through. You want a SNAP as the bolt breaks free. No slow application of force here, a quick, smooth and sure turning of the bolt.

I have always been successful with this method. I keep telling myself to make a video but this description will have to do. The main things are to prevent the wheel from moving (diluting your application of force) and to apply the force quickly and thoroughly. Super satisfying to get that baby loose.

 

[2phast]

Should I hammer first and turn clockwise before trying to loosen it?
I don't have a 1/2 inch impact around here.

Pick up some aluminum tubing around 1" or so from HomeDepot, cut it to about 3 foot, use it as a breaker bar over your socket wrench. This process works best if someone sits in the drivers seat and holds the socket wrench in place on the nut, then have someone else outside the vehicle with the breaker bar. Leverage is your friend here.

 

[LWB250]

I've never had a problem removing these in any Mercedes. As luckymike says, the key is "snapping" the bolt, not applying high pressure, and using the shortest possible extension to keep the axis of rotation as close to the bolt as possible and at a right angle.

I like the 2x4 for bracing the wheel. That's genius. I'm using that in the future. Special tool!!!

Dan

 

[Seangbadee]

It's easy! I've pulled the steering wheels on all three of our cars, 1989 560SEL, 1989 560SEC and 1995 E420. Here's what I do:

The trick is to find a way to keep the steering wheel from moving so you can apply a short, sharp shock to the bolt. I use either a 2x4 of the proper length, or a length of pipe, whatever I have around. The board or pipe is placed vertically on the floor mat and under the left lower spoke of the wheel so that the wheel is prevented from turning counterclockwise. I turn the wheel slightly to the right so that spoke is almost horizontal. Be sure your steering lock is not engaged. I use a folded rag between the board and the spoke to prevent damage to the wheel.

Now, using a quality, tight-fitting 10mm allen, insert it fully into the bolt. I use a 1/2" breaker bar with, I believe, a 3" extension, adapter and my 3/8 drive allen. You want the minimum length here so the breaker bar just clears the rim of the steering wheel as gsxr says. No extra length on the extension which could compromise direct force on the fastener. Position the breaker bar at about 9:00 or whatever position affords you the most secure and confident application of sudden and deliberate, follow-through force. I stand outside the car.

When you're mentally ready, support the far end of the breaker bar with your right hand so it doesn't bend downward when you apply your force. Use an assistant if you want both hands on the breaker bar. Give the business end of the breaker bar a quick, deliberate, forceful and confident crack in a counterclockwise direction. Think 'through' the bolt, knowing it will give. Follow through. You want a SNAP as the bolt breaks free. No slow application of force here, a quick, smooth and sure turning of the bolt.

I have always been successful with this method. I keep telling myself to make a video but this description will have to do. The main things are to prevent the wheel from moving (diluting your application of force) and to apply the force quickly and thoroughly. Super satisfying to get that baby loose.

When you're mentally ready,...... I love that.
Nice description and as soon as my tool arrives, I'm going at it again.
Thank you

 

[gsxr]

I just ordered a 1/2 inch drive 10mm hex bit off Amazon.

Excellent. Simply using 1/2" drivers may be enough to make it work, along with the methods described by others above.

I don't have a 1/2 inch impact around here.

A couple years ago I broke down and bought the Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2" mid-torque cordless impact wench. It goes on sale occasionally around $200-$220 *including* a battery & charger. Right now it's $200 for the bare tool which is nothing special. Since buying that, I'm surprised at how useful it has been, and how often I use it. Highly recommended. For steering wheel bolts, it makes the job totally painless with ZERO blood pressure concerns.

More details on the M18 FUEL deal in this thread, the original Home Depot sale was spring 2018, also on sale again fall 2019:

What’s your best buy DIY garage tools? | Tools and Shop Equipment

This thread is getting off-topic. Let’s please keep it focused on tools.

www.500eboard.co

I would recommend the MID-torque 1/2" for general purpose use, and/or if you can only afford one impact. I've found it works on 98% of what I need. See post #282 in the thread linked above for more info. I don't yet have the high-torque version, due to the cost, the fact I'd rarely need that much power, and I have an old air impact which works for the tough stuff when needed. Why not just buy the big one, since it doesn't cost that much more? Size & weight: It's substantially larger and won't always fit into tight spaces for suspension/driveline work, and the extra weight isn't fun if not required for the job.

 

[Seangbadee]

Excellent. Simply using 1/2" drivers may be enough to make it work, along with the methods described by others above.



A couple years ago I broke down and bought the Milwaukee M18 FUEL 1/2" mid-torque cordless impact wench. It goes on sale occasionally around $200-$220 *including* a battery & charger. Right now it's $200 for the bare tool which is nothing special. Since buying that, I'm surprised at how useful it has been, and how often I use it. Highly recommended. For steering wheel bolts, it makes the job totally painless with ZERO blood pressure concerns.

More details on the M18 FUEL deal in this thread, the original Home Depot sale was spring 2018, also on sale again fall 2019:

What’s your best buy DIY garage tools? | Tools and Shop Equipment

This thread is getting off-topic. Let’s please keep it focused on tools.

www.500eboard.co

I would recommend the MID-torque 1/2" for general purpose use, and/or if you can only afford one impact. I've found it works on 98% of what I need. See post #282 in the thread linked above for more info. I don't yet have the high-torque version, due to the cost, the fact I'd rarely need that much power, and I have an old air impact which works for the tough stuff when needed. Why not just buy the big one, since it doesn't cost that much more? Size & weight: It's substantially larger and won't always fit into tight spaces for suspension/driveline work, and the extra weight isn't fun if not required for the job.

I will consider the impact wrench later. You are right, there'll be zero BP concerns.
I'll return to the JY when I'm mentally ready especially since I'm salvaging a lot of old radios, and have my eyes on a 1692. It's worth the effort at $5 per radio.
Right now I've got a 1492, 2299 and will add 2 more
I'm going to sell them once I clean them, and confirm that they are fully functional.
Thanks

 

[TerryA]

Sean,

In the past I have been similarly frustrated by trying to remove the rear axel nut to get to the wheel bearing. I had tried using a 3/4” breaker bar with a 6 foot 1-1/2” pipe over it. After hours of screwing around all I succeeded in doing was lifting the car off of the jack stand.

Next, I went to the local HAZ Rental and brought home a cordless impact wrench. The nut came off in seconds.

Buying a tool like this doesn’t make a lot of sense for most of us.

BUT you should SERIOUSLY CONSIDER renting an impact wrench.

Keep that BP down.

lol

 

[kwontumspeed]

+1 to the 2x4. That's genius. Combo switches to all my 124s are original. This trick is it. Thank you.

 

[Seangbadee]

Sean,

In the past I have been similarly frustrated by trying to remove the rear axel nut to get to the wheel bearing. I had tried using a 3/4” breaker bar with a 6 foot 1-1/2” pipe over it. After hours of screwing around all I succeeded in doing was lifting the car off of the jack stand.

Next, I went to the local HAZ Rental and brought home a cordless impact wrench. The nut came off in seconds.

Buying a tool like this doesn’t make a lot of sense for most of us.

BUT you should SERIOUSLY CONSIDER renting an impact wrench.

Keep that BP down.

lol

The 2x4 method just worked, my teeth are intact and my BP is still acceptable

 

[sheward]

Congratulations. Would you mind revealing the location of the wagon when you are finished cannibalizing?

drew

 

[Seangbadee]

It's at a JY in Austell, called Salvage Hunter, Used Car & Auto Parts From Salvage Yard in Atlanta, GA | Salvage Hunter Auto Parts, Navy blue W124 wagon with peanut butter interior.
It's been highly cannibalized though, and getting set for crushing.

Admin edit: Sounds like Midnight Blue (904) with Saddle interior (xx4).

 

[Seangbadee]

It's at a JY in Austell, called Salvage Hunter, Used Car & Auto Parts From Salvage Yard in Atlanta, GA | Salvage Hunter Auto Parts, Navy blue W124 wagon with peanut butter interior.
It's been highly cannibalized though, and getting set for crushing.

Admin edit: Sounds like Midnight Blue (904) with Saddle interior (xx4).

Thanks for the edit. I'll check when I go there again.

 

[kwontumspeed]

Funny, one of the engines on the slideshow is an M104.

 

[luckymike]

Fantastic, Sean! Congratulations.

 

[Seangbadee]

Fantastic, Sean! Congratulations.

Thank you

 

[TerryA]

The 2x4 method just worked, my teeth are intact and my BP is still acceptable
View attachment 94125

“Walk Tall and Carry a BIG STICK”

Congrats Sean!

 

[kwontumspeed]

Just FYI, I now, aged post. I must say again, this technique is genius. Wood, cheater bar, 10mm, BAM. Comes off like butter. It's hard not to feel like an idiot not having thought of this technique oneself but sometimes things can hide under your nose until someone points it out. Thanks @luckymike

 

[luckymike]

Just FYI, I now, aged post. I must say again, this technique is genius. Wood, cheater bar, 10mm, BAM. Comes off like butter. It's hard not to feel like an idiot not having thought of this technique oneself but sometimes things can hide under your nose until someone points it out. Thanks @luckymike

SWEET. You are very welcome!

 

[gerryvz]

@luckymike is indeed da bomb !!

 

[vo11ce]

Is it not possible to move this whole thing instead of only moving over the contact ring? And what is the best way to remove the contact ring

 

[gsxr]

There are 4 screws holding the contact ring to the steering wheel. Just remove the screws.

More photos here: Index of /images/W124_steering/steering_contacts

 

[vo11ce]

There are 4 screws holding the contact ring to the steering wheel. Just remove the screws.

More photos here: Index of /images/W124_steering/steering_contacts

View attachment 171813

Okay I have removed the contact ring and the 2 wires but I still have this wire left and I dont know how to remove it.

 

[gsxr]

The wires should all unplug / disconnect and come out.