• Hi Guest !

    Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.

    Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.

    We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.

    We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!

    Sincerely,
    500Eboard Management

500E New ETA install - reset procedure?

rucraig

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Hi folks. I have a Beckman remanufactered ETA being installed this week. Can anyone tell me the process for resetting adaptation once it's in the vehicle?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
Russell
 
It's simple. Turn on the ignition to position 2, where the cluster lights up, and you can audibly hear the ETA make noise. Leave the key on for 90 seconds. Done.

:yahoo:
 
:searchdammit:


 
OK - the ETA is installed in the vehicle, along with a bunch of new induction hoses and connectors. The good news is that the vehicle now idles
:)

However, bad news is that there is now an ASR light showing, and the car is in limp mode :doh: The workshop says that, following the reset procedure above, the new ETA did nothing - no movement of the butterfly. Possibly connected to the ASR being triggered?

They wonder whether the new ETA is faulty. I hope not - I'm sure Beckman do good work and test units before they're shipped. Their next step is to disconnect the battery overnight and see what happens. If there's no change, they'll plug the original ETA back in to see if the problem resolves itself.

In the meanwhile, I said I'd consult the gurus here. What thoughts do folk have about A) most likely cause(s) of the problem and B) next steps to take to track down the problem?

Cheers,
Russell
 
The throttle linkage MUST be adjusted properly. Follow the FSM procedure. Make sure at idle, the linkage as completely on the stop on the ETA housing.

Next step is clearing codes on the E-GAS module, and seeing which code returns. That will help identify what is causing the ASR light / limp mode, without guessing.

:asr:
 
OK - the ETA is installed in the vehicle, along with a bunch of new induction hoses and connectors. The good news is that the vehicle now idles
:)

However, bad news is that there is now an ASR light showing, and the car is in limp mode :doh: The workshop says that, following the reset procedure above, the new ETA did nothing - no movement of the butterfly. Possibly connected to the ASR being triggered?

They wonder whether the new ETA is faulty. I hope not - I'm sure Beckman do good work and test units before they're shipped. Their next step is to disconnect the battery overnight and see what happens. If there's no change, they'll plug the original ETA back in to see if the problem resolves itself.

In the meanwhile, I said I'd consult the gurus here. What thoughts do folk have about A) most likely cause(s) of the problem and B) next steps to take to track down the problem?

Cheers,
Russell
Many thanks
 
OK - the ETA is installed in the vehicle, along with a bunch of new induction hoses and connectors. The good news is that the vehicle now idles
:)

However, bad news is that there is now an ASR light showing, and the car is in limp mode :doh: The workshop says that, following the reset procedure above, the new ETA did nothing - no movement of the butterfly. Possibly connected to the ASR being triggered?

They wonder whether the new ETA is faulty. I hope not - I'm sure Beckman do good work and test units before they're shipped. Their next step is to disconnect the battery overnight and see what happens. If there's no change, they'll plug the original ETA back in to see if the problem resolves itself.

In the meanwhile, I said I'd consult the gurus here. What thoughts do folk have about A) most likely cause(s) of the problem and B) next steps to take to track down the problem?

Cheers,
Russell
Supplementary question - where can I find the FSM procedure?
 
HI again - workshop has sent this image of codes they observed today - can anyone interpret these please?

1762895944110.png
 
Code 030 is from the ASR module and is a phantom/ghost code that appears every time limp mode occurs. This can be ignored.

I don't know what scanner the workshop is using, but it does not speak fluent Mercedes OBD-1. There is no code "120" from the E-GAS module (or any other module). I can't tell what the other numbers indicate (3,11,0,78).

Really need Star Diagnostics HHT-Win or other scanner that communicates properly with these early 90's OBD-1 systems.

:runexe:
 
My ETA/ASR saga continues - I'm looking for more advice on next steps to resolve the problem.

After reviewing all the content on ETA issues here, consulting with mechanics who have worked on 500e ETA issues and trying everything they could think of with no success, the workshop swapped the original (faulty) ETA back into the car. The idling problem returned, but the ASR issue disappeared. Also, they noted that, when plugged in and powered up, the remanufactured ETA does not go through the self-check routine - it does nothing.

This leads us to believe that the Beckmann remanufactured ETA unit is likely to be faulty. I spoke to Beckmann about this. They're adamant that they fully test units before they ship (I'm sure they do) and instead have pointed to either a misadjusted linkage or faulty gas pedal switch as the likely cause of the problem. They are reluctant for me to ship the unit back to them for testing, possibly due to potential shipping costs to and from NZ although, if it turned out the unit was not faulty, I would bear that cost.

I don't think their thinking stacks up - if the ASR is being triggered by something other than a fault in the new ETA, why does the problem disappear when the original unit is reinstalled?

Am I missing something here? Any thoughts on this would be really appreciated.

Cheers,
Russell
 
Russell, based on what you describe, it sure does sound like a defective Beckmann unit. In particular, since you reinstalled the old one and the issues reversed. No "self check" is a big red flag pointing towards a defective ETA. They are correct that the linkage MUST be adjusted properly, but it seems the replacement unit was installed OK.

Only other thing I would like to know are what fault codes appear with each ETA installed. You'd need to clear the faults from the E-GAS each time a different ETA is installed. That's a lot of labor though (about 1 hour per swap). It would help if you could validate there are no faults related to the gas pedal switch, or anything else external.

Based on your prior screenshots, the shop is using "wrong" diagnostic tools that are not clearly identifying the fault codes, which could be a challenge here. A blink code reader would at least be partly helpful, but you really need proper 3-digit fault codes from the E-GAS. That requires either SDS with HHT-Win, or a Snap-On MT2500 with Mercedes software/cables, or equivalent.

:cel:
 
Russell, based on what you describe, it sure does sound like a defective Beckmann unit. In particular, since you reinstalled the old one and the issues reversed. No "self check" is a big red flag pointing towards a defective ETA. They are correct that the linkage MUST be adjusted properly, but it seems the replacement unit was installed OK.

Only other thing I would like to know are what fault codes appear with each ETA installed. You'd need to clear the faults from the E-GAS each time a different ETA is installed. That's a lot of labor though (about 1 hour per swap). It would help if you could validate there are no faults related to the gas pedal switch, or anything else external.

Based on your prior screenshots, the shop is using "wrong" diagnostic tools that are not clearly identifying the fault codes, which could be a challenge here. A blink code reader would at least be partly helpful, but you really need proper 3-digit fault codes from the E-GAS. That requires either SDS with HHT-Win, or a Snap-On MT2500 with Mercedes software/cables, or equivalent.

:cel:
Thanks very much. I'm going to get the Beckmann unit tested and rectified. I've passed your questions re codes and diagnostic tools on to the workshop.

At the end of this process, I want to have as much confidence as I can that some sort of throttle problem won't reoccur. I'm renewing all the hoses and vacuum lines in the induction system. I'm wondering whether I should do the same with throttle cables/linkages and switches?
 
The throttle cable & linkages generally do not need replacement unless something is damaged or broken, which is unlikely.

The only external switch is S29/3 idle contact switch at the accelerator pedal, and that's not a common failure - if there are no recurring fault codes indicating a problem with it, I'd be inclined to leave it alone.

OTOH, all the vacuum tubes and hoses tend to get fossilized with time and heat... if they are old, it's probably a good idea to replace them.

:tumble:
 
The throttle cable & linkages generally do not need replacement unless something is damaged or broken, which is unlikely.

The only external switch is S29/3 idle contact switch at the accelerator pedal, and that's not a common failure - if there are no recurring fault codes indicating a problem with it, I'd be inclined to leave it alone.

OTOH, all the vacuum tubes and hoses tend to get fossilized with time and heat... if they are old, it's probably a good idea to replace them.

:tumble:
OK - thanks very much for the advice.
 
Hi everyone. I have an interesting update.

As noted above, Beckmann were confident that there was no problem with the ETA they supplied me. When I asked if I could ship it back to them for testing, they instead decided to give me a full refund and let me keep the ETA.

I then shipped the ETA to Victor at RestoreYourMercedes.com who immediately found two faults with the unit. There was a mechanical fault causing the butterfly to open and close incorrectly, and a wiring fault. He has now repaired the unit and is shipping it back to me. My timing was interesting, because he is in the process of sorting out a 500e that he has acquired, which had been sitting undriven for 15 years.

Victor made two videos about the diagnosis and repair that folks may be interested in:

1.
(Initial diagnosis)
2.
(Repair completed)

I'm relieved that the ETA did turn out to be faulty and am very much looking forward to getting the repaired unit back in the vehicle.

Once that is done, I think I'll get Victor to repair the original faulty ETA. I'll then either add it to my parts stash or see if someone here is interested in buying it.
 
I then shipped the ETA to Victor at RestoreYourMercedes.com who immediately found two faults with the unit. There was a mechanical fault causing the butterfly to open and close incorrectly, and a wiring fault. He has now repaired the unit and is shipping it back to me.
Fascinating stuff - thanks for sharing! Did he say what was causing the mechanical fault, i.e. what exactly did he repair inside the unit, if anything?

Apparently, Beckmann does not have a robust testing procedure for their units. Now we know.

BTW - what did Beckmann and Victor charge (excluding international S&H)?

:yahoo:
 
Fascinating stuff - thanks for sharing! Did he say what was causing the mechanical fault, i.e. what exactly did he repair inside the unit, if anything?

Apparently, Beckmann does not have a robust testing procedure for their units. Now we know.

BTW - what did Beckmann and Victor charge (excluding international S&H)?
Victor told me the linkage binding was caused by a manufacturing defect. He had to realign the mechanism somehow.

Beckmann charged me $630 + $100 core charge. I'm waiting for Victor's invoice, but I think it will be in the same ballpark.
 
Hi Rucraig, Im a fellow MB owner but it's a 1995 SL500 that has gone into limp mode. Interestingly I have had Beckmann recommended to me as well as Kurth in Germany ( I think Kurth are probably the most fastidious from my advice and research and they cost about the same for future reference). Im tossing up between the 2 of them at present but finding it hard to talk with Beckmann as there phone is constantly busy. Any thoughts and has anyone else had a bad experience with Beckmann? Also have you had the cost from Victor and what is his address details and contact please? Thanks
 
Hi. After my experience with Beckmann I cannot recommend them. They shipped me a unit with a very obvious fault that should have been picked up by a quality control process. To their credit, they did refund me the cost of the ETA, bit still...

Victor has been excellent to deal with, and I think very fastidious. Note, however, that the ETA is yet to be installed in my car. I decided to do a major top end refresh. Hopefully the final parts order gets delivered next week and reinstatement of everything can begin.

From memory, Victor charged me $800USD. His contact details are on www.restoreyourmercedes.com . As he notes, best way to contact him is via text.
 

Who has watched this thread (Total: 5) View details

Back
Top