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No Courtesy and Puddle Light for Driver's Door?

LWB250

"He'll see everything. He'll see the big board!"
Member
I've seen this issue mentioned on a number of forums for W124 cars without a resolution - you open the driver's door and you get no courtesy (cabin) light or puddle (door bottom) light. Seatbelt warning buzzer and headlight buzzer work. All other doors make the courtesy and puddle lights work on the respect doors.

A check of the pin switch on the door frame shows it's working. Shorting the wires makes no difference. A mystery? Not really.

Warning Module N2/4 (004 545 07 32) is responsible for the seatbelt and headlight "on" alarms. The driver's door switch plays a large part in its operation. Unlike the other door switches, which simply provide a ground directly to the courtesy and door bottom lights for their respective doors, the same function for the driver's door is a part of the N2/4 operation. Here's why:

The pin switch for the driver's door provides a ground path to the N2/4 module. The internal circuitry "looks" at both the seat switch and input from the headlight switch. Along with these functions, it grounds the circuits for both the courtesy and lower door lights through a transistor that is driven by the same circuit that controls the buzzers. Now if the signal(s) for the respective buzzer operations aren't present, it doesn't buzz. However, it still turns on the transistor for the lighting circuits so you have cabin and lower door lamps when the driver's door is open. When it closes, the transistor turns off and the lower door light goes out and the courtesy (cabin) light times out through the time delay circuitry in the courtesy light assembly.

The N2/4 module is located in the instrument panel behind the instrument cluster on the right side. It's mounted on a bracket with another relay and a barrier strip where the signal for the odometer comes from. It's near impossible to get to. If you unplug the module connector and remove the screw holding the bracket on the left to the reinforcement bar you can push the bracket down far enough to get a 1/4" ratchet with an 8mm socket on the screw that holds the relay mounting bracket. Once this is removed, the bracket must be lifted up so the module can be lowered and the relay's mounting bracket is disengaged. It involves some serious gyrations, but it can be done.

Screen Shot 2018-03-30 at 6.16.37 PM.jpg

Here is a photo with the bracket and module installed. Note that it shown upside down. The metal tab on the module is "J" shaped and has to be inserted into the slot at a 45 degree angle, then the module is moved parallel to the bracket and the screw threaded into the hole in the bracket.

Bracket relay.jpg

Installation is the reverse of removal. Easier said than done, especially getting the retaining screw back into the relay mounting bracket. Just get it back there first, then use your fingers to get the threaded portion of the screw to drop into the opening where the whiz nut is located on the bracket.

Reconnect the module and regain proper operation of your driver's door courtesy and door bottom lights.

P.S. - Another somewhat common failure is when the lower door light is grounded and the circuit shorted. Since this is downstream of the module and not fused, a direct short can damage the module. If you know the lower door light has been shorted or grounded, you can open the N2/4 module and do a visual check for a burned foil trace. If this is found, soldering a wire in to replace the burned foil may return the module to proper operation. Simply plug it in and try it before reinstalling in to verify that is the problem.

Dan

0045450732.jpg
 
What section of the epc is this wiring diagram found within? And is it the same for all w124s and years?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
I do not think that the EPC contains wiring diagrams, more just exploded parts diagrams. You need to go to the W124 Service Manual to find the electrical diagrams. It's available free via MB, online, or at a few sites that people have set up on the internet.

Electrical diagrams are indeed very different for different models and even different years within the same model range. However, generally speaking 500E and E500 wiring diagrams are going to be pretty similar if not the same in most cases.
 
The picture used in my post, along with a diagram which I can post later today, all came from the ETM, or electrical troubleshooting manual. I would have to verify it, but I believe this feature began in 1988.

Dan
 
Gents: I have this issue and have ordered the part to replace. I very much appreciate the detailed post.

My question relates to the puddle lights? What are these? Are they inside the cabin or outside? On more modern cars I understand puddle lights to be on the outside and point down from the side mirrors onto the ground. Not sure for our cars.

Thanks.
 
The are located in the bottom of the leather and plastic door skins and point directly downward when the door is opened. Small clear rectangular plastic lenses covering a light bulb.
 
Hey guys,

Thanks a bunch for this post. I had the same issue where no lights would turn on when the drivers door would open, but everything worked with the passenger door and the rear lights worked with the rear doors. Thanks to this post I was able to source a used part for about $30 on Ebay, pulled out the cluster and got it replaced. I found the best way to compensate for the lack of space was to use a series of extensions about 15" to 18" long with a 10mm socket to reach the back bolt that hides behind the foam insulation, way back there. The other bolt I was able to reach with a small 1/4" drive socket. Unplugged the two harness connectors, put the new one back in a everything works as intended!

I had spent about a month with the door panel off trying to run continuity tests on all the door wires, looking for a shorted wire, disconnected wire, etc. to no avail until I stumbled upon this article!

Now I just need to figure out why my steering column adjustment and headrest don't work (it's not the headrest gear, already replaced that and all motors seem to work fine when supplied with external 12V power... 😥)

Just wanted to say thanks again for the great write up!
 

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