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OWNER - Jelmer

036 and me maintained 240-260 for quite a while (what, nearly half an hour?), only slowing down when there were other people overtaking (or preparing to overtake). That's like being in heaven :D

I used to move through Germany like this :)



[youtube]IDnp3tsTzpM[/youtube]
 
He writes:
The distancs covered in the last 9.5 minutes was 25 miles.
That works out to 252km/h or 157mile/h. Not so much higher than our top speed...
 
Oh no! Somebody took my wood!
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No worries, the person that took of your wood trim is just planning on re-finishing it. In the meantime, it will be a good idea to vacuum and clean around for a fresh new look once the wood is back in place.
 
Yeah, it's already getting better, quite awesome. You are correct about cleaning and vacuuming the car - these pictures make it painfully obvious that I neglected to do that for a while...

As a little intermission: not only boys like cars!
[youtube]1i2LXCQie14[/youtube]
[sub]We'll see how long it takes for her to force me to set it to private ;)[/sub]
 
I think most guys have the same reaction the first time they pin the throttle on a 500E. Heh-heh. Thanks for sharing!

:deniro:
 
It's getting a bit too dark to take proper photographs, but here's a sneak peak.
The dirty stuff
Allparts original.jpg

And it's not just the wood that's dirty!
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Cleaned up
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Detail
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No worries, the person that took of your wood trim is just planning on re-finishing it. In the meantime, it will be a good idea to vacuum and clean around for a fresh new look once the wood is back in place.

Was going to point out the same (needs vacuum) but he has guy called 036 that does this ....lol. JB, get down on your knees and do it yourself, man!
 
How and what has 036 done?
Well, biggest difficulty is to diss- and assemble those boxes
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?2548-Wooden-Trim

How- good old 3M and AutoGlym as finishing glaze. 80% hand polish, some real deep scratches- polishing mashine, lowest speed. Always check if it´s not too hot. And take your time :) Biggest danger- polishing corners with mashine... Biggest trick- not to brake anything, also by assembling.
I have to say, Jelmer´s trim is in an excellent condition, i would give it 7 from 10.
 

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The weather was perfect, so the car put us to work again.
It starts like this
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Leather cleaning takes my full concentration, I had no idea these were being shot :)
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The result, however...
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I still can't believe no-one has mentioned this chick-magnet.
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:buggin::blink:Jelmer…it goes without mention, because this dusty piece of rubber, much like that cult-like worshipped Anhängerkupplung, is not.

Stop venturing into those Amsterdam herbal cafes. They are skewing your automotive perspective & will only reduce the number of patrons venturing over to Club Jelmer. :banana2:
 
Well, today was 180,000km service-day!
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The car passed the co2 test - but just barely, even with the cats on. That might be a problem later on, but for now there are no codes,and all readings seem OK.

The overheating problem has been fixed, as well. The previous shop (which I spoke quite highly of) put in the wrong, aftermarket, thermostat. [insert curse words here].

The right one came out of the car:
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No Merc logo anywhere :-/
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After exchanging it with a temporary one (from an older V8 model) temps stayed fine, while driving around!
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Oooh shiny!
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And, who's that behind my car?
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:banger:Is that it ? A bloody t-stat? Jeez, after all that stressed it put you through, mate. I'm glad to hear that it's now fixed. That aftermarket one is a completely different design! I tell you sometimes these mechanics don't realise the pain they put us through.
 
The correct t-stat for the 500E should look like the photo below, same as the one that was in Jemler's car. I think they just used a cheap aftermarket unit instead of OE/OEM. I may have a new OE/dealer t-stat floating around, I'll see if I can get a photo of it.

The t-stat on the left in the previous photo will not physically fit in the M119, that one is for some other engine.

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You're right - we didn't end up putting the one on the left in, that was ordered wrong.

I didn't take a proper photograph of the actually opening bit of the wrong t-stat, but it was tiny. Almost half the size of the one pictured here! The temperature was correct, it was simply impossible to move enough water to cool the whole thing :)

A new, OEM one, has been ordered. But I'll put that in when I go to Christian to remove the viscous fan. I decided I still want to get rid of it.
 
Seen this for the second yime now and it is stunning WOW

The color combination is great.

Very well taken care of.
 
Update time! I just picked up the car from the mechanic. I actually helped him this time, felt good!

I've had some stuff done that's not really needed, but made me feel better.

- New ignition cables (Beru ZEF 635, or Beru Number: "0300890635" Price cheapest in Germany is 198€, at http://www.daparto.de/Teilenummernsuche/Beru/0300890635?categoryId=672&kbaTypeId=5176 - Thanks Christian)
The old cables were still OK, but some of the connectors had some issues. It looked like they'd been sparkin' the wrong way ;)
The Beru cables seem to be a good choice. The cable lengths are spot-on, they feel good, the connectors look good, and best of all: half of the price of the OEM cables.

- New Insulator-caps-thingies (behind the distribution caps)
It seems there were two brands that got merged into one part number, we thought I might have Bosch caps with the "other" insulators. That wasn't the case, but they did show some impressive damage (i.e., blackish electrical damage on some bits).

- While testing, Cor started fiddling around and the engine stalled. There's a silly looking brown wire on top of the engine that goes directly into the upper wiring harness. This wasn't soldered on properly. Oops.
- There's a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel lines with a hose into the eighth cylinder. This was leaking a tiny bit, possibly getting fuel directly into the intake manifold. This would cause that cylinder to receive more fuel, get compensated by the electronics, etc. Drama.
- Disconnected that bloody air pump. Needed to remove the headlight for that! Grrr!
- Replaced some vacuum hose rubbers. Seems to resolve a minor "woosh" when revving the engine (only when having your head near the engine).

Bottom line is that I *still* have the minor problem with the engine skipping a cylinder every 5-10 seconds when hot, but overall it's running much smoother. There's also a lot more power; a few tests gave that wondrous near-wheel-spin when shifting from 1st to 2nd, something it hasn't done for a long while. I also had an oddity while cruising ~50km/h, where I'd feel like the car was rocking forward and backward gently - especially on cruise control. This appears to be fully gone. Freeway speeds (in NL, unfortunately ;) ) also feel more smooth. At 120km/h it's almost like the engine isn't there.

Best news of all is that there's nothing else really wrong with the car. No leaks, no burning oil, no indications that it's time for a belt-change, nothing. Well... Save for one thing: motor mounts... One day...

Oh, and they are quite positive about my electrical fans! Much of the work couldn't be done or would be harder with that damned fan shroud in the way. It's actually possible to DO SOMETHING in the engine bay now!!

Once again, thank you all for your input and suggestions.
 
Update time! I just picked up the car from the mechanic. I actually helped him this time, felt good!
-
-
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- Disconnected that bloody air pump. Needed to remove the headlight for that! Grrr!
- Replaced some vacuum hose rubbers. Seems to resolve a minor "woosh" when revving the engine (only when having your head near the engine).

I also had an oddity while cruising ~50km/h, where I'd feel like the car was rocking forward and backward gently - especially on cruise control. This appears to be fully gone.
Good news & nice reading, Jelmer. :-)

It is amazing how it's possible to pick up information which can be similar to the individuals in here. I noticed that rocking running, I'am facing the same on my Limited but it's very weak, more like fading on constant speed. I thought it was ETA related, but it can be the vacuum lines?

And you've disconnected the Air Pump too, without getting any error code or running issues?

-a-
 
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I think the rocking was caused by the leaking (though that's a big word - you could barely smell / taste fuel) fuel pressure regulator. If I understood it all correctly, it would allow slightly more fuel to get into the 8th cylinder, then some sensor would pick up a too rich fuel mixture, turn it down, then notice there's not enough fuel, turn it up again, ad infinitum.

We replaced the vacuum bits because the nearly fell off on their own.

No running issues at all without the air pump. Can't tell if there are codes or not, but frankly I don't care. The noise was getting louder and louder, to the point where I wanted to pass 2500 rpm as soon as possible to shut the damn thing off. Scared me to bits!
 
- Bottom line is that I *still* have the minor problem with the engine skipping a cylinder every 5-10 seconds when hot, but overall it's running much smoother..

What about plugs,caps and rotors ? thought this was on your "to do list" , no ?? Good you got your hands dirty though :nast:

No running issues at all without the air pump. Can't tell if there are codes or not, but frankly I don't care. The noise was getting louder and louder, to the point where I wanted to pass 2500 rpm as soon as possible to shut the damn thing off. Scared me to bits!

Only if you have CEL as in US spec, but not Euro , so no worries there. Should have removed this a long time ago. I removed mine unintensionally when swapping headlamps and didn't bother to reconnect as you said, PITA !
 
OK, that sound good. But did you physically replace the air pump with the specific replacement pulley&bracket, or did you only disconnect the pump?
 

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What about plugs,caps and rotors ? thought this was on your "to do list" , no ?? Good you got your hands dirty though :nast:
Yessir, but those have all been done recently :)


Only if you have CEL as in US spec, but not Euro , so no worries there. Should have removed this a long time ago. I removed mine unintensionally when swapping headlamps and didn't bother to reconnect as you said, PITA !
Exactly. It was because of those messages that I decided to deactivate it. Removing the headlamp isn't as easy as one would expect, though. Neither is trying to actually reach the bloody connector. Damn!

But did you physically replace the air pump with the specific replacement pulley&bracket, or did you only disconnect the pump?
Simple pulled the plug. As Bing said, the wires go under the headlamp near the water reservoir. Removing the headlamp reveals a connector. We just yanked it out. No way I'm paying €600-700 for a piece of useless equipment!
 
OK, that sound good. But did you physically replace the air pump with the specific replacement pulley&bracket, or did you only disconnect the pump?

Arnt, I think I know what you're thinking. I guess in some cases the noise can come from the pulley bearing itself and therefore simply disconnecting it would not make it silent. Meaning if you simply want to unplug it, the bearings must be intact. Of course if you want to do it properly then remove actual pump and install/modify a new bracket/pulley. Obviously in my case and Jelmer's, the bearings are fine.

Jelmer, when you have time make a video of that Hiccup/miss/stumble that you're on about.
 
Arnt, I think I know what you're thinking. I guess in some cases the noise can come from the pulley bearing itself and therefore simply disconnecting it would not make it silent. Meaning if you simply want to unplug it, the bearings must be intact. Of course if you want to do it properly then remove actual pump and install/modify a new bracket/pulley. Obviously in my case and Jelmer's, the bearings are fine.

Jelmer, when you have time make a video of that Hiccup/miss/stumble that you're on about.

Yes, I've read about the comming bearing issues. I'll go for the replacement bracket which is a small weight saving too - me like a lot! :-)
The bracket is in fact not that expensive, 209 Euro ex.VAT + shipping from Speed Autoteile.

Cheers
 
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The bracket is in fact not that expensive, 209 Euro ex.VAT + shipping from Speed Autoteil

Quite! You might as well since a OE/stock replacement pulley exist. Is that part# A119 230 02 42 as you posted above?
 
Quite! You might as well since a OE/stock replacement pulley exist. Is that part# A119 230 02 42 as you posted above?

Bing,

Bracket A119 230 02 42 is for engines pre #005781 and A119 230 03 42 for engines post #005782. I guess this is the break point for introduction of the 8 slot versus 6 slot serpentine belt. But it's no problem running the 8 slot bracket/pulley on the newer engine, because the belt runs on the inner 6 slots (closest to the engine). This is what I anticipate since the new AC-compressor I got for the Limited has a 8 slot pulley and I was told to run the belt on the inner 6 slots. No problemas at all.

These brackets are for cars without catalyzers, but I have no idea which country that didn't have that requirement in the early '90s. So I guess it is hard to find any secondhand.

Cheers
 
Arnt,

Does Amazon work in Norway or ship there? Amazon in the USA is the cheapest source for compressor, bosch products(distributor caps,rotor, fuel pumps). I purchased the new denso compressor for $170 in July? August.
 
These brackets are for cars without catalyzers, but I have no idea which country that didn't have that requirement in the early '90s. So I guess it is hard to find any secondhand.

Correct ! And finding a secondhand one won't be easy, good it's still available then.:thumbsup2: Good source for those who want's to get rid off that pump.
 
Arnt,

Does Amazon work in Norway or ship there? Amazon in the USA is the cheapest source for compressor, bosch products(distributor caps,rotor, fuel pumps). I purchased the new denso compressor for $170 in July? August.

$170 for a brand new AC-compressor, that was a very good price!! I bought mine from a "car clima/cooling" shop in Sweden and paid $964 including dryer filter and gaskets. But guess what the MB stealer wanted here in Morepay - $2.628 for the compressor only! :lol:
 
$170 for a brand new AC-compressor, that was a very good price!! I bought mine from a "car clima/cooling" shop in Sweden and paid $964 including dryer filter and gaskets. But guess what the MB stealer wanted here in Morepay - $2.628 for the compressor only! :lol:

Hello Arnt.

Is the price difference due to taxes or inflation ? I thought prices in Sweden would be really close to Norway.
Over Here the Stealership (only one in the whole country) over price everything by at least 25% than Germany ! although import customs are only 5% and no VAT. And Still everybody buys a toyota or a pick up truck !!!
 
Hello Arnt.

Is the price difference due to taxes or inflation ? I thought prices in Sweden would be really close to Norway.
Over Here the Stealership (only one in the whole country) over price everything by at least 25% than Germany ! although import customs are only 5% and no VAT. And Still everybody buys a toyota or a pick up truck !!!
Sweden is a lot cheaper - 30-50% lower parts prices and 40-60% lower car prices. It's 25% VAT on car parts to Norway, no other import tax. The Norwegian customers are valuable for the Swedish car business, we get good service and they refund the VAT on export (25% as in Norway). The Norwegian MB importer and workshops around do simply have too big pockets, that's all.
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A lot can be said about the extreme Norwegian price level, but it is screwed up in the sky by the government. They claim we have a high cost level, and we do compared to most European countries, but that's an endless spiral created by the government due to the tax philosophy. A good example is the car prices where 70% is tax, hence we need higher salary to buy safe cars for our bad road conditions, that's obvious. Another thing is the salary tax, multiple tax types for everything, and tax on tax for the importers and producers. We have the Oil & Gas business giving HUGE income to Norway, the same does the water power industry. But the Norwegians don't benefit a dime from that. Both are commercial businesses sold globally, so we are paying import prices on petrol produced on our own Norwegian continental shelf! All in all does 85-90% of the Norwegian tax payers money return to the government. So it's easy for Norway to brag internationally being the richest country in the world, but it's a self-contradictory moral and the situation is simply out of proportions.
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Enough hijacking of Jelmers thread.:)
 
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Hi Arnt,

Would really like to continue this topic in a another thread... that's the stuff that brings the world together. :)
Makes us all know that no place is even near perfect, though some peoples "to do list" might be longer than others.
 
So happy the W124 isn't made of plastic!

Someone in front of me started braking, the BWM behind me couldn't brake hard enough, and hit me in the rear. The bumper seems to be pushed in a few millimeters, and my paint's damaged. BWM is much worse... ;-)
 

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Damn I hate those, had to many of them.
Though I expected the BMW to be messed up even more.
 
Yeah, insurance will handle it all. Wonder what will happen, who knows? I might end up with a new rear bumber... After a few years all body work will be new :D

Oh, and yeah Arnt, I think that's the dude I used as an avatar. What a weirdo :P
 
Sorry to hear/see this JB .... luckily it shouldn't be too difficult and costly to repair from the looks of it. It appears that at a minimum a new bumper would be in order -- for sure a "bumper cover" and hopefully there was no structural damage to the car.

Is that a small dent I see at the top of the rear next to the end of the trunk lid, above the right taillight? Did that result from the BMW hit?

Glad to see that BMW injured far more than the MB ... serves the Munich junk correct !!

Let us know how it all turns out. I assume the BM driver/insurance will be paying for all of this, not you/your insurance.

Cheers,
Gerry
 
Yep, it'll be his insurance that pays for it all. No matter what you say or do, if you hit someone from behind, it's your fault. Good for me, in this case.

I just noticed that the bumper seems a bit wobbly above the hit. Might be a bit twisted on the inside, I guess. Is there an easy way to check for damage other that the pain chirps?

The small dent on the top right has always been there. Bugs me to bits, but it'll have to wait until I have enough money for a full repair&respray. In a year or two :)

Another thing I learnt from this is that the stopping power of this car is amazing. I was braking hard enough to not hit the car in front of me, and felt I had plenty of more left - ABS didn't even kick in. The Beamer behind me, however...
 
No matter what you say or do, if you hit someone from behind, it's your fault.
Pretty much the same here in the US. You should have the repair shop that does the bumper work, use a "paintless dent removal" process to remove that upper dent. It would be incremental labor and probably well within their capabilities to do it. At least then you won't have to look at it....
 
The correct t-stat for the 500E should look like the photo below, same as the one that was in Jemler's car. I think they just used a cheap aftermarket unit instead of OE/OEM. I may have a new OE/dealer t-stat floating around, I'll see if I can get a photo of it.

The t-stat on the left in the previous photo will not physically fit in the M119, that one is for some other engine.

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is there a 160 degree t stat available for a 036?
 
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