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Priming oil pressure after oil change
- Thread starter Kyiv
- Start date
For the record... I *never* do this on the M119. I think it may have been more of an M116/M117 thing? Gerry?
Anyway, I believe you simply unplug the crank sensor from the EZL, crank the engine until you see oil pressure above zero on the gauge, then reconnect the sensor. This may store a fault code on the EZL. Again, I don't believe there is any measurable benefit on the M119.
Anyway, I believe you simply unplug the crank sensor from the EZL, crank the engine until you see oil pressure above zero on the gauge, then reconnect the sensor. This may store a fault code on the EZL. Again, I don't believe there is any measurable benefit on the M119.
Agreed. Unless the engine had been sitting for some time allowing any oil in the galleries to completely drain down, I don't see the value. There will always be enough oil film to protect from measurable wear from the short time it takes to build up oil pressure. You might speed things up a little by filling the filter assembly, but that would be difficult and messy and hardly worth the trouble in my opinion.
Dan
Dan makes a good point. During a normal oil change where you drain the oil hot, and the engine has been fully coated internally with oil, there should be plenty of oil film on everything to protect during the startup.
Now, if an engine has been stored for many years without running, that's a different scenario!
Now, if an engine has been stored for many years without running, that's a different scenario!
I have never "primed" any MB engine I've ever owned for an oil change. I always change the oil after it is fully brought to temperature. This not only allows for best flow/drain, but also completely coats the engine's parts.
During the 15-20 minute period before engine oil change when I allow things to drain (back into the pan), and the 15-30 minute oil drain operation, I have 100% faith that the engine is coated internally with enough oil that there is no issue upon re-start.
During the 15-20 minute period before engine oil change when I allow things to drain (back into the pan), and the 15-30 minute oil drain operation, I have 100% faith that the engine is coated internally with enough oil that there is no issue upon re-start.
Thanks! I've not primed oil pressure before. But the two times thus far that I have changed oil myself, I noticed that oil pressure stays at zero for, what seems, like 1.5 seconds. Today/tomorrow I'll be replacing oil level sensor, and I don't know how having a pan removed affects the amount of oil remaining in the galleries... Or it doesn't matter?
If you remove the oil pan, you'll also remove an extra 0.5 quarts not normally drained... so make sure to double-check the level when re-filling.
But this has no effect on the oil remaining inside the engine, assuming you don't leave it open for weeks.
But this has no effect on the oil remaining inside the engine, assuming you don't leave it open for weeks.
Using synthetic oil. There should be no reason to prime the engine if it was drained hot and the oil changed and started within the same day.
As far as I'm concerned "It's a Waste of Time". End of story.
Think about this. If your car has set for a month in the garage. You just pulled it in and parked it a month ago. Surely all of the oil in the engine is in the pan. Would you prime your engine before you started it? If your a sane person, the answer is NO! Your just going to get in put your key in the ignition and start the car. Am I right?
What's the difference between changing the oil and restarting upon refilling it?
and
Just parking the car for a month and starting it cold? NO DIFFERENCE > SAME EFFECT ON THE ENGINE
If you drained it and it set for two weeks before it was filled and ran again the Yes Prime it!
lol
As far as I'm concerned "It's a Waste of Time". End of story.
Think about this. If your car has set for a month in the garage. You just pulled it in and parked it a month ago. Surely all of the oil in the engine is in the pan. Would you prime your engine before you started it? If your a sane person, the answer is NO! Your just going to get in put your key in the ignition and start the car. Am I right?
What's the difference between changing the oil and restarting upon refilling it?
and
Just parking the car for a month and starting it cold? NO DIFFERENCE > SAME EFFECT ON THE ENGINE
If you drained it and it set for two weeks before it was filled and ran again the Yes Prime it!
lol
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Everything makes sense. I prefer to double-check things I'm not 100% certain of. The oil filter stays filled with oil when car is off and even after a month of the car sitting. When car is started, oil pressure pegs to 3 bar instantly. After an oil change, it takes about 1.5 seconds for the pressure to build. I wasnt sure if having pan off might have an even bigger effect vs just filter off
I ALWAYS prime any car of mine with fresh oil in the filter housing. Pull the old filter when warm, drain the oil out of the engine. Pour 1st gallon of fresh oil into sump. (To cover pickup tube) then a litre or so into the oil filter housing and install filter + cap quickly whilst level is almost full in housing. Add remaining oil to correct level.
NO rattling / ticking startup post oil change.
There is no question in my mind that is the best way to do it even if it takes a couple more minutes.
NO rattling / ticking startup post oil change.
There is no question in my mind that is the best way to do it even if it takes a couple more minutes.
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This is not the same scenario as taking the lid off the filter housing and draining the oil from the sump!
If the oil housing check valve is in good condition (revised item available - strongly advised preventative maintenance item) then you should not be seeing issues starting up after even a month.
All my older benzes sit around and don't have rattly startup with a few seconds of no oil pressure. That's because they all have proper functioning oil filter housing check valves. Just sayin
I will refer all of you to Glen's High Miler with 600+K miles on it. I've met Dr. P and also Glen. I can only say that with that many miles on that engine that I'm sure it didn't attain that mileage by priming the engine. I believe Dr. P just took it in for service about every 5K miles. As for Glen he can correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think so.
This is my story and I'm sticking with it!
With the use of synthetic oils and to an some extent dino oil that the motor wouldn't be dry if you drained it and left it overnight and started it the next day.
"It's a Waste of Time"
This is my story and I'm sticking with it!
With the use of synthetic oils and to an some extent dino oil that the motor wouldn't be dry if you drained it and left it overnight and started it the next day.
"It's a Waste of Time"
My E500 motor (which I'm working on in the garage) hasn't been started since early April (about two months). I turned it a couple of times by hand today, and as the cam lobes turned, just in those two revolutions, they were coated with a new coat of oil. This tells me that even within a rotation or two, there is oil circulating around the engine. Perhaps it is not at full pressure (this takes a second or two), but there is definitely oil close at hand.
Any SOHC v8 that is on old rails or tensioner gets primed during an oil change...lots of death rattles otherwise. Any engine that has sat for more then 6 months gets primed...at least the older stuff...killing ignition on the new cars (113 and later) isn't quite as quick/simple.
And just for today's tidbit of obscure info...of you have an m117 DOHC and she has sat for a few months you REALLY want to prime her... The exhaust guides get sticky, leading to camshaft and lifters no longer making contact. firing the engine up in this condition leads to steel shims about the size of a 50-cent piece bouncing around inside of your cylinder head due to the Piston kissing the valve and popping the shim (over bucket) out of its lifter
End result is a hole approximately the size of a small apple blowing out the side of said head.
Makes your wallet get really warm really fast....
On another side note, if you are changing the oil pan gasket don't let it's it open for too long as you can lose the prime in the oil pump itself. To be safe when we do drop the pan we always prime an engine on the starter just to be sure we didn't lose our oil pump prime.
Jono
And just for today's tidbit of obscure info...of you have an m117 DOHC and she has sat for a few months you REALLY want to prime her... The exhaust guides get sticky, leading to camshaft and lifters no longer making contact. firing the engine up in this condition leads to steel shims about the size of a 50-cent piece bouncing around inside of your cylinder head due to the Piston kissing the valve and popping the shim (over bucket) out of its lifter
End result is a hole approximately the size of a small apple blowing out the side of said head.
Makes your wallet get really warm really fast....
On another side note, if you are changing the oil pan gasket don't let it's it open for too long as you can lose the prime in the oil pump itself. To be safe when we do drop the pan we always prime an engine on the starter just to be sure we didn't lose our oil pump prime.
Jono
Any SOHC v8 that is on old rails or tensioner gets primed during an oil change...lots of death rattles otherwise. Any engine that has sat for more then 6 months gets primed...at least the older stuff...killing ignition on the new cars (113 and later) isn't quite as quick/simple.
And just for today's tidbit of obscure info...of you have an m117 DOHC and she has sat for a few months you REALLY want to prime her... The exhaust guides get sticky, leading to camshaft and lifters no longer making contact. firing the engine up in this condition leads to steel shims about the size of a 50-cent piece bouncing around inside of your cylinder head due to the Piston kissing the valve and popping the shim (over bucket) out of its lifter
End result is a hole approximately the size of a small apple blowing out the side of said head.
Makes your wallet get really warm really fast....
On another side note, if you are changing the oil pan gasket don't let it's it open for too long as you can lose the prime in the oil pump itself. To be safe when we do drop the pan we always prime an engine on the starter just to be sure we didn't lose our oil pump prime.
Jono
I agree on an M117 engine. For me this applies even for a normal oil and filter change on an M117 engine. If the chain tensioner bleeds down there is no protection for the upper engine. As Gerry stated pull the coil wire and turn over the engine until you get some oil pressure showing on the gauge.
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Hello, I rebuild my complete m119 engine and now want to prime the engine with oil and get oil pressure. As the system was completely dry does anyone have a guide to prime the engine so I can get it started.
I already put oil in the oil filter 'tube' and in the engine of course.
I already put oil in the oil filter 'tube' and in the engine of course.
My '94 E420 has sat for some months as the heads were reconditioned and all of the plastic timing chain guides behind the timing case cover were replaced. Removal of the timing case cover required removal of the oil pump. I will prime the engine with the crank sensor removed as shown above, hopefully if a code is stored, the check engine light will clear since that light being on for any reason will cause smog test failure.
