Rear brake rotors help

[aliking]

Hello all, im planning to change the rear brake rotors for my car, i searched for a good brand replacement in the local stores here in Jordan & found 2 choices:
1- Balo brand
2- Texter brand
Both for same price, i searched the forum for Balo & found its a good brand, so please if anyone have expereince in these brands to tell me about it.
Thanks again

 

[gsxr]

I'd pick whichever is made in Germany, and/or whichever has a gray coating like OE rotors. Make sure they are proper size, 278x24 is what I see in your photos.

If the rotors do NOT have the gray coating and are "oiled", you may want to clean off the oil and spray them with a cold-galvanizing zinc spray like the OE/dealer rotors. This will protect surfaces from corrosion and doesn't need to be removed from the friction surfaces.

 

[aliking]

I'd pick whichever is made in Germany, and/or whichever has a gray coating like OE rotors. Make sure they are proper size, 278x24 is what I see in your photos.

If the rotors do NOT have the gray coating and are "oiled", you may want to clean off the oil and spray them with a cold-galvanizing zinc spray like the OE/dealer rotors. This will protect surfaces from corrosion and doesn't need to be removed from the friction surfaces.

Thank you gsxr, i will pick the Balo rotors then, will use original brake pads also.
Thank you so much, i love this forum

 

[skikrazey]

Zimmermann is the OE supplier for MB, I highly recommend them.

 

[TerryA]

I’m sure OEM parts in Jordan are tough to come by. I would at least enquire as to the cost of Mercedes OE rotors? I would use them or the Zimmerman brand if possible.

Just my Opinion

Good Luck

 

[aliking]

I’m sure OEM parts in Jordan are tough to come by. I would at least enquire as to the cost of Mercedes OE rotors? I would use them or the Zimmerman brand if possible.

Just my Opinion

Good Luck

Ur completely right, the rear rotors are not available at the dealer store in Jordan, i found a 3rd choice of used geniune rotors in mint condition, but i will never place used parts for the brake system in my car, i will take another week and see if i can find zimmerman in old stock stores

photos for the used rotors, they look really great, the label and gray coating still on them which means that they are like new.

 

[MY911S]

Anyone have a diy link for the rear rotor removal? I saw one for the front not rears. Thanks I’m advance!

 

[sheward]

Remove the one hex key rotor screw and the rotors are ready to remove [after removing the calipers]. You may likely find they will not come off due to corrosion. It may be necessary to use a rubber mallet and some lubrication around the center hub to get them moving. Make sure the parking brake is off, of course.

 

[MY911S]

Thank you. Man a little bit of a chore I just removed the calipers brake pad pins won’t punch out and rotors still frozen

Mercedes-Benz W124 Rear Rotor Replacement | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

Replace your rear brake rotor with help from this article.

www.pelicanparts.com

 

[sheward]

Yes, I remember really having to work to get some movement at first. A bit of heat with a propane torch followed with oil at the hub and wheel bolt holes may help. Repeat with time for cool down in between. If you need to do so, try to keep the heat on the rotor and not the hub. Too much heat will not be good for the bearing.

 

[MY911S]

Omg got it out! Had to wield the mallet double handed

 

[MY911S]

After a long break I think I’m finally going to do this today if I get up the courage. I also purchased what I could for the fuel system refurb. So I may try that too. I didn’t see a DIY for fuel pump replacement. Anyone have a link to the procedure. I’ll search again.

 

[sheward]

This thread HOW-TO: Replace Fuel Filter - With BONUS! | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles will be helpful. It's pretty strait forward. Be prepared to pinch off the supply line. You will need new copper washers and you should have a new hard line in hand.

 

[gsxr]

After a long break I think I’m finally going to do this today if I get up the courage. I also purchased what I could for the fuel system refurb. So I may try that too. I didn’t see a DIY for fuel pump replacement. Anyone have a link to the procedure. I’ll search again.

AFAICT there is no fuel pump replacement thread in the "HOW-TO" section of the forum. The FSM procedure (click here) doesn't have much useful info either.

Fuel pump replacement is fairly straightforward, but has some risk since you are dealing with gasoline. Ideally, drive the car until the reserve light comes on, then drive another 20-30 miles to reduce the total fuel left in the tank to <2 gallons or so. You'll need something to pinch off the large hose between tank and pump while working.

This thread on fuel filter replacement has some info that may help. (Edit - Drew posted the same while I was typing!)

HOW-TO: Replace Fuel Filter - With BONUS! | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

Fuel filter on the 93 400E was of unknown age, despite digging through the PO's records. I did find where it was recommended to be replaced several times by their indie but they redlined the work. Anytime I get a new (to me) car if I can't substantiate maintenance work I do it myself so I have...

www.500eboard.co

Also read this for the hose part numbers:

FYI - Fuel Pump and Hose Replacement Info with part numbers (Was: Fuel leak while running) | Troubleshooting and Diagnostics

ADMIN EDIT: Post #8 has the part number for high-pressure hose exiting the fuel filter (most critical to replace if original or aftermarket) Post #18 has the part number for feed hose from fuel tank/strainer to fuel pump inlet. Post #22 has the part number for connecting hose between fuel...

www.500eboard.co

 

[sheward]

Of course, disconnect the battery and use appropriate caution with flammables.

 

[emerydc8]

It wouldn’t hurt to take a few pictures of the pump and filter assembly before you start, making note of where the washers are placed between the fittings. Be careful not to tear the rubber mount donuts that the pumps and filter assembly are hanging from. If they are original they may need replaced. If you break one, some safety wire will do as a temporary measure until you can replace it.

 

[MY911S]

Thanks guys. Had the wheel off and I noticed the brake shield looks like it will interfere with the larger rotor - so I think—-I need to purchase a set of rear brake dust shields—- just a guess

 

[gsxr]

Thanks guys. Had the wheel off and I noticed the brake shield looks like it will interfere with the larger rotor - so I think—-I need to purchase a set of rear brake dust shields—- just a guess

If you are installing 300mm rear rotors on an early 500E, yep... either cut, or hammer/dolly, the old dust shield for clearance.

Replacing with larger shields is the best solution, but this requires replacing the rear wheel bearings as they get destroyed when the hub is removed. Big job, but good preventive maintenance if it's never been done.

 

[MY911S]

Thank you yes I re-read the old threads and saw that you mentioned that in one of them.

 

[MY911S]

This looks like such a pain I might find a used rear caliper (smaller rotor) and run with that for now. That’s what I really needed to change as it’s binding. Just need to find the thread for the part number

 

[nocfn]

when you put the copper washers on to seal the fuel, use a light film of Mercedes brake wheel bearing grease on them. It really does the trick with the dissimilar metal sealing for fuel and suspension fluid applications.

 

[MY911S]

This looks like such a pain I might find a used rear caliper (smaller rotor) and run with that for now. That’s what I really needed to change as it’s binding. Just need to find the thread for the part number

Anyone have pics of rotors that have been trimmed or hammered back. I might just do that for now. I did purchase the wheel bearing and larger dust shields.

 

[sheward]

It's a fairly simple process using sheet metal snips. The circumference of the shield can be bent back slightly with hand pressure to allow clearance for the thicker/larger rotor.

 

[MY911S]

It's a fairly simple process using sheet metal snips. The circumference of the shield can be bent back slightly with hand pressure to allow clearance for the thicker/larger rotor.

Great! Thank you for the pics!

 

[sheward]

If you choose to go this route you may want to purchase the original shields in addition to the 129 shields you have to make this a reversable mod although I would consider this modification acceptable and even an upgrade to all but a collector. I consider any drivability upgrade to be a good one.

 

[gsxr]

If you choose to go this route you may want to purchase the original shields in addition to the 129 shields you have to make this a reversable mod although I would consider this modification acceptable and even an upgrade to all but a collector. I consider any drivability upgrade to be a good one.

Jono or Klink would likely be about the only people who would ever notice if a larger dust shield was installed on the rear of an early car that originally came with a smaller shield. Not even a concours judge is going to catch this.