Rear wheel carrier joint bushing

[gerryvz]

We could do a thread where people can list tools they have, that they would either be willing to sell or loan to trusted members.

Personally I am a bit leery to loan my tools to ANYONE, though I recently broke this rule with a guy who (through Jono) approached me to borrow my M117 valve go-no go gauge (which is a relatively inexpensive tool).

A couple of years ago, I do remember shipping my Trisco Palm Scan tool to GSXR for an official GSXR Mushroom(TM) Field Test, and I did receive it back from him within 2-3 weeks.

GMFTs tend to be pretty exhaustive and result in significant documentation that describes an item's capabilities, features and benefits. So in this case, the expected GMFT documentation was worth the risk.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[mistermiata]

Me too, please.
Again, gerryvz how about a passalong thread for these obscurum tools for the one time user?
Thanks

No problem! I will let you know when I am done with it

 

[mistermiata]

Here are the remains of my old bushings. May they rest in peace. Lets offer a moment of silence for their honorable service
View attachment 14295

DW SD......where you having any clunks or squeaks from your rear suspension? What prompted you to change the bushings?

Thanks!

 

[DW SD]

Hey Andy,
I did have squeeks over speedbumps. What prompted me to change it is seeing the failed boots. I could see under the plastic LCA cover the cracked rubber.

Doug

 

[500AMM]

Maybe a side note; I know these bushings are quite sloppy on my Limited, so they are on the list, but under WOT the rear end toss a bit on each shift. Could that be due to these bad bushings?

 

[DW SD]

Maybe a side note; I know these bushings are quite sloppy on my Limited, so they are on the list, but under WOT the rear end toss a bit on each shift. Could that be due to these bad bushings?

Anything that causes toe changes could, I would think. That could be other bushings too. Maybe toe links, thrust links, camber links. I've done all of those but the thrust, which look solid. My car is riding and handling nicely and predictably.

 

[500AMM]

Yes, I bought the BAUM tool, so I am giving it a go. Will try to take some pix. Will be selling the tool shortly thereafter if anyone is interested.

I am going to buy that Baum Tool, could you please confirm that it is part# B202-0043?
http://www.baumtools.com/search/index.php

 

[Egreaves20]

I am going to buy that Baum Tool, could you please confirm that it is part# B202-0043?
http://www.baumtools.com/search/index.php

Yes, that is the correct part number.

 

[Trae]

The rear end on my 92' Renntech feels a little sloppy and makes a "ca-thunk" sound when going over bumps. Do you all think that this job would solve that problem?

 

[gsxr]

The rear end on my 92' Renntech feels a little sloppy and makes a "ca-thunk" sound when going over bumps. Do you all think that this job would solve that problem?

Not likely, but they are cheap enough that it wouldn't hurt to try. I would first inspect *everything* in the rear suspension. When everything else looks fine, the clunk/rattle noise may be from a failing SLS shock...

 

[gerryvz]

80% of the time, a rear-end clunk is an SLS shock as GSXR says.

 

[500AMM]

Just figured I'd post a pic of the recipient of 2 new carrier bushings, running great at 169k miles.

Unless anyone knows what else the Baum tool can be used for, I am happy to sell it. Paid $160 just a week ago.

I inquired BaumTool for this tool yesterday, they do now require $190!! + shipping. How did you manage to get it for $160??

Parts.com wants $271,20 + shipping for the OE tool. Is the quality worth that extra cost?

IIRC it is possible to get ground shipping from Parts.com, how is that done?

 

[gsxr]

Here is the Baum tool on eBay for $160 with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121080269082 (click here for current listing from same seller)


Another option, at ~$100 plus shipping, is the SirTools M-0085:

http://www.toolsource.com/metal-clad-bushing-p-112946.html

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=SIRM0085

http://zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=M0085&CTMP=1

 

[500AMM]

Here is the Baum tool on eBay for $160 with free shipping:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/120932562878


Another option, at ~$100 plus shipping, is the SirTools M-0085:

http://www.toolsource.com/metal-clad-bushing-p-112946.html

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=SIRM0085

http://zdmak.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=M0085&CTMP=1

You found the BaumTool on Ebay? (...I didn't even check there...)

Many thanks - payment completed on the last one!
(My fiancee picks it up in Houston during Eastern)

 

[gerryvz]

Please consider me when it comes time to do that, thanks.

Just FYI -- I went ahead and purchased this tool for myself, so I don't need to be considered for this in the future.
Thanks
Gerry

 

[Taxi Driver]

Hi, to clearify, this "bushing" is not really a bushing as we know them, the inner rubber mount, however is a bushing in a normal
sence inner and outer sleave with rubber inbetween, the upright joint as it is called is in fact a sort of a balljoint allowed to wiggle
or pivot for toe adj. This may be mistaken for wear or play as it is fairly loose or very if compared to a regular bushing. Roger

 

[samiam44]

Roger,

The joint to me is a heim joint. Which is the press in bearing in an aircraft rod end.

Michael

 

[clarkz71]

Original part# was 201-352-0027

Superseded to 220-352-0227, then the 204 352 0027

 

[mistermiata]

So I finally got around to doing the rear carrier joint bushings in hopes of curing a nasty low speed squeak from the rear over bumps. I finished the drivers side. It went well (after I figured out how to use the Baum tool).

The biggest problem I had was getting the rear rotor off (and on). The parking brake had a death grip on the rotor which required some pretty serious pounding on the back side of the rotor to get it off.

Before I attempt the passenger side, is there something I can do to make it easier to get the rotor over the parking brake shoes? I saw the adjuster lurking there but didn't want to mess with it in until I hit you guys up for some answers.

Thanks!

 

[gerryvz]

Hi Andy,

Possibly you can adjust the parking brake shoes to suck them in a little bit. Make sure you use a rag or other soft item (2x4 piece?) to cushion the blow on the brake rotor surface (if you are banging it from the rear). When you re-install the rotors use a little bit of anti-seize paste on the metal to metal contact areas to make it easier the next time. Be sure to re-adjust the parking brake shoes when you replace the rotors !!

And, be thankful it's not a W126 hub/rotor design, which is a considerably greater PITA to deal with

Take some photos of the condition of your bushings both before and after you press them out. This is really an overlooked job on the W124.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[sheward]

I recently encountered the same fight while upgrading to Silver Arrow Rotors. I heated the mounting area of the rotors with Mapp gas a bit while dripping some light oil around the stud bases to help separate the corrosion followed by a rubber mallet. If I remember correctly the rotation of the p.b. adjusters is opposite from one side of the car to the other.

drew

 

[gerryvz]

If I remember correctly the rotation of the p.b. adjusters is opposite from one side of the car to the other.

Yes ... 100% correct !!

Just for reference ... my HOW-TO on this job is at this thread.

My technique was to hit the FRONT of the rotor (where the back of the wheel touches it) with a sledge hammer with moderate blows to break it free. Worked better than hitting the BACK of the rotor, and the FRONT of it is much more accessible !!

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[mistermiata]

Gerry......In my case it wasnt the corrosion between the rotor and the hub that was the problem, it was the parking brake shoes hanging up on the rotor.....it felt like I was going to rip the parking brake shoes right off as I was pulling on the rotor to remove it. There are a couple of spring back there too that we're putting up a good fight.

Anybody know which way to turn the adjuster wheel to loosen the grip of the parking brake shoes on the inside of the rotor? Can that be done at the hub only, or do I need to get to the adjuster in the center of the car as well?

 

[sheward]

It has to be done at the hub, Andy. The adjusters limit the contraction. I don't have time to check but I believe I found the rotation in my 124 bible. I'll check and post when I get back home.

drew

 

[Glen]

Just covering all bases here, Andy, are you sure you released the parking brake?

 

[mistermiata]

Ahhhhh......great question Glen! I eventually thought of that myself after struggling and swearing for 15 min. And yes, the parking brake was off

 

[sheward]

Found it. Adjustment is done through the wheel bolt hole, from the front side.
Left side: push star adj. up/ pull screw driver handle down to TIGHTEN.
Right side: push star adj. down/ pull screw driver up to TIGHTEN

You will want to perform the opposite action

drew

 

[gerryvz]

Thanks for that clarification Drew. I never remember that so it's always a trial and error thing for me to get it right ... but easy to remember to rotate the star-wheel the opposite direction on the other side.

FYI - be careful with that 124 Bible book. It's OK as a basic tome, but honestly (and particularly for the .034/.036) it is pretty poor. And has more than a few errors in it. OK to use it, but just treat what it says with a grain of salt.

Much better to utilize this site and/or ask the professional experts here who work on 124s for a living (Jono, Klink, Vader, GSXR et al) if one needs .034/.036 specific information.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[mistermiata]

Thanks so much Drew.....hopefully that does it!

Gonna do the other side this wknd, I will report back with pics, but as a teaser, the drivers side looked TERRIBLE, just like all the other rear carrier bushings posted by others who have done the job.

 

[sheward]

Thanks for that clarification Drew. I never remember that so it's always a trial and error thing for me to get it right ... but easy to remember to rotate the star-wheel the opposite direction on the other side.

FYI - be careful with that 124 Bible book. It's OK as a basic tome, but honestly (and particularly for the .034/.036) it is pretty poor. And has more than a few errors in it. OK to use it, but just treat what it says with a grain of salt.

Much better to utilize this site and/or ask the professional experts here who work on 124s for a living (Jono, Klink, Vader, GSXR et al) if one needs .034/.036 specific information.

Cheers,
Gerry

Yea, I can recall quite a few errors pointed out here through the years although none specifically. My memory used to be better...I think. I received my copy with my 1st 500E which was essentially my 1st Mercedes and it served as a good overall introduction to the w124 chassis. This place made it obsolete quite a while back.

drew

 

[500AMM]

Gerry......In my case it wasnt the corrosion between the rotor and the hub that was the problem, it was the parking brake shoes hanging up on the rotor.....it felt like I was going to rip the parking brake shoes right off as I was pulling on the rotor to remove it. There are a couple of spring back there too that we're putting up a good fight.

Anybody know which way to turn the adjuster wheel to loosen the grip of the parking brake shoes on the inside of the rotor? Can that be done at the hub only, or do I need to get to the adjuster in the center of the car as well?

It's normally some rust & dust growing a tiny edge on the drum surface on the backside/inside of the brake shoes. The brake shoes are also parallell and VERY CLOSE to the drum surface. As soon as you start pulling the rotor, the brake shoes are easily hooked up, tilted over and jammed against the drum. The harder you pull - the more are the brake shoes jammed...

The best way I have done is as follows:
- keep the car on the ground
- raise the corner you're working on with a hydr.jack
- put in all lug bolts with 1 turn
- sit on the ground
- place your foot on the lug bolt heads
- grab the rotor with both hands
- wiggle the rotor just a little bit
- while moderate to hard pulling

At one point the brake shoes will slip over the "problem point" and both you and the rotor fall backwards, but the lug bolts saves you. Having the car on a lift will not allow you to do this.

Good luck - and use gloves to save your fingers!

 

[mistermiata]

Somehow this updated thread doesn't feel complete without the Klinkster chiming in

Not sure I even feel comfortable finishing the job without the advice of Herr Colonel.....plus I want to see his avatar

Where art thou Klink??

 

[Klink]

Somehow this updated thread doesn't feel complete without the Klinkster chiming in

Not sure I even feel comfortable finishing the job without the advice of Herr Colonel.....plus I want to see his avatar

Where art thou Klink??

I work on Saturdays, so I can't read all the board related info on this for a while. It looked like you guys had it under control. What particular part of the job is worrying you?

 

[mistermiata]

Oh I'm not worried about finishing the job, all the advice I received has been very helpful.

Just like reading your posts, felt slighted that you never chimed in. I may have a man crush, I don't know.....don't tell Mrs Klinkette or the Klinksters

 

[Klink]

Oh I'm not worried about finishing the job, all the advice I received has been very helpful.

Just like reading your posts, felt slighted that you never chimed in. I may have a man crush, I don't know.....don't tell Mrs Klinkette or the Klinksters

I understand. You're only human...

 

[gerryvz]

OK, when threads here start talking about man-crushes, it's a big red flag that they need to be closed, stat.....

 

[mistermiata]

Sorry everyone lets get back on topic.....

Anyhow, finished the other side this morning, attached is the obligatory picture of the 20 y/o carrier jt bushing.

So after all that, my rear end squeak is still there ....any other thoughts about this? I guess it has to be another bushing or the shocks?

Also, my parking brake shoes are rubbing. I couldn't adjust at the wheel to make the rub disappear, so I am going to try adjusting at the center adjuster under the driveshaft.

 

[Klink]

Sorry everyone lets get back on topic.....

Anyhow, finished the other side this morning, attached is the obligatory picture of the 20 y/o carrier jt bushing.

So after all that, my rear end squeak is still there ....any other thoughts about this? I guess it has to be another bushing or the shocks?

Also, my parking brake shoes are rubbing. I couldn't adjust at the wheel to make the rub disappear, so I am going to try adjusting at the center adjuster under the driveshaft.

Unless you disturbed your parking brake adjustments while you were there it probably is not your parking brake adjustment.

More often than not the disc shield gets slightly tweaked and it can be striking the brake disc at some point in its rotation. This can be hard to see because sometimes it happens on the innermost part of the disc and or at the rotor hat.

Other good parts for squeaking are loose bolts or nuts on the swaybar link rods and or the lower ball joints of the rear struts.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mistermiata]

Pretty sure it's the parking brake shoes Klink. I could reproduce the rub with the wheel off when I turned the rotor. The rotor would turn freely for approx half it's rotation and then tighten up and be hard to turn as it caught on the parking brake shoes....I'm assuming that's what makes the noise when I test drove it.

And yes, I did mess with the adjusters at the wheel trying to get the rotor on and off.

I'm so friggin frustrated today, did hours of work to replace the rear carrier bushings to fix my squeak, now I still have the squeak and I gotta fix this rub I created. It's one of those days I wish I had a Honda

 

[Klink]

Pretty sure it's the parking brake shoes Klink. I could reproduce the rub with the wheel off when I turned the rotor. The rotor would turn freely for approx half it's rotation and then tighten up and be hard to turn as it caught on the parking brake shoes....I'm assuming that's what makes the noise when I test drove it.

And yes, I did mess with the adjusters at the wheel trying to get the rotor on and off.

I'm so friggin frustrated today, did hours of work to replace the rear carrier bushings to fix my squeak, now I still have the squeak and I gotta fix this rub I created. It's one of those days I wish I had a Honda

Or a Miata!
We've all been there...
Don't feel too bad. If those spherical joints have cracked boots, moisture is entering and their days are / were shortly numbered anyway.

As far as the parking brake adjustment goes, the critical thing is that you must start from the absolute beginning and omit not a single step. Let me know it you don't have the instructions from 500E board already in front of you.

 

[mistermiata]

Yes, a Miata, but definitely not a Land Rover LOL (although it's been pretty reliable)

I'm gonna use these instructions:

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Maintenance/94_95/4261.pdf

 

[Klink]

I'm gonna use these instructions:

http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB CD/W124/w124CD1/Program/Maintenance/94_95/4261.pdf

That's the one, Andy. And 400 Newtons is 90 pounds of force, just to give you an idea. However, you know how tight a parking brake pedal should feel, and that is what is adjusted by the bolt on the central pivot. The critical part is that the wheel shoes are adjusted without the cable mechanism placing any force on the shoe spreaders. That's why the first steps essentially render the cable too loose, then it is retightened after the wheel shoes are set.

Speaking of spreaders, how about that hood star girl?

 

[mistermiata]

So just to update this saga, the job is done.

The rubbing noise I was hearing was a combinations of the brake shoes rubbing AND the heat shield rubbing. I found this out as I was adjusting the brake shoes and they were no longer touching the brake disc, I still had a slight rub. Turns out (just as suggested by Gerry) that the heat shield was still rubbing along the hub. Very hard to see it, and not a place you would expect to rub.

So anyway, job done, and as a bonus, my parking brake is adjusted to spec!

Unfortunately still have the low speed creaking noise. It actually sounds like it's coming from up high like its in the rear parcel shelf area but definitely suspension related. I've replaced the shock bushings, so not sure what else to do about it except turn up the stereo

So my Baum tool will be up for sale now.....I will start a new thread with pics after I clean it up....

Thanks for all the help guys!!

 

[clarkz71]

I'm interested in that tool, PM me details

 

[gerryvz]

Congratulations Andy. Too bad it didn't solve your creaking issue, but it's an overlooked job that like motor mounts, really should be done by just about everyone if it's not been documented as being done in the past.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[sheward]

Agree. I'm particular about having a p brake that works properly and use it always.

drew

 

[mistermiata]

So I think I will replace the sway bar bushings and sway bar link rods in an effort to rid my car of the rear end creak. I'm sure these need replacing anyway as per Honcho's decree to rid all old MB's of their OEM rubber bits

Looks like the part #'s are:

Bushings......2013260881 (looks like this is an old part #, new #2103260881 according to the new parts.com site, mboemparts.com)

Links.....1243200289

Can anyone confirm these part #'s for me? Any other advise for this small project? Looks pretty self explanatory, but I've never done it before and I'm sure you guys have.

 

[Klink]

So I think I will replace the sway bar bushings and sway bar link rods in an effort to rid my car of the rear end creak. I'm sure these need replacing anyway as per Honcho's decree to rid all old MB's of their OEM rubber bits

Looks like the part #'s are:

Bushings......2013260881 (looks like this is an old part #, new #2103260881 according to the new parts.com site, mboemparts.com)

Links.....1243200289

Can anyone confirm these part #'s for me? Any other advise for this small project? Looks pretty self explanatory, but I've never done it before and I'm sure you guys have.

For sure Andy, nobody want's a creaky rear end. Those are good part numbers you have there. Also consider the following:
"X" indicates the quantity required.

New self locking nuts at the sway bar end 210 990 02 51 X2 You don't want to keep using the same old crusty nuts, do you? Replacing self locking nuts is a good practice. If you don't replace any of these nuts, at least put a dab of blue Locktite on the threads before assembly.

New nuts for the control arm end............ 913004 008004 X2

New bolts at the control arm end............ 304017 008043 X2

YMMV on this one, but he rubber torsion bar bushings at the body may or may not be available more readily and / or possibly cheaper as the bushing repair kit
201 320 04 47 X1 This kit includes the 4 mounting bolts already likely treated with thread sealer.

 

[mistermiata]

Cool thanks Klink exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks....

As for re-using crusty nuts we r definitely on the same page, however if star girl in your avatar wanted to clean them with her tongue, well....

 

[Klink]

Cool thanks Klink exactly the info I was looking for! Thanks....

As for re-using crusty nuts we r definitely on the same page, however if star girl in your avatar wanted to clean them with her tongue, well....

I think she ran off with with the cylinder boring machine operator, Andy !