What's a better idea, new MAF @ $750-800 or a rebuilt one at $250-350? Anybody have experience with the rebuilts?
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Replacement MAF
- Thread starter remotemark
- Start date
AFAICT the rebuilds are genuine Bosch rebuilds... if it were my $$$, I'd get a rebuilt for ~$300. Or even consider a used one (Hendy?).
The MAF is a pretty rare failure. Easy test is to unplug the connector and see if the car runs better without it.
The MAF is a pretty rare failure. Easy test is to unplug the connector and see if the car runs better without it.
The MAF is a pretty rare failure. Easy test is to unplug the connector and see if the car runs better without it.
Is that a test from the WIS/FSM or just common sense?
I don't think it's official, but it does work... the LH system goes into a fixed operating mode if the MAF is disconnected. Should run & drive with the MAF unplugged.
I don't think it's official, but it does work... the LH system goes into a fixed operating mode if the MAF is disconnected. Should run & drive with the MAF unplugged.
It is official, in that the LH system as designed by Bosch/MB has a fixed default mixture and operating mode
in the event of any sensor failure, including the MAF.
It takes throttle position, rpm and load (via the EZL map sensor) to calculate mixture.
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Indeed! If you think about it you realize that it effectively becomes a reincarnation of D-Jetronic.
I am also having issue with my maf sensor and codes about the maf, I’ve had issues with my car randomly turning off when reaching at opperating temp , I dis connected the maf and the car would stay on and not turn off as to if it were to be connected it would stay on for maybe 10-15 mins iding and then just turn off, but I’m going to replace the caps all of that ignition stuff ima replace the top harness the fuel injector, the cables, but I’ve been wondering where would be the best place to buy a new or good maf sensor if you can help that would be great thanks in advance
Will do thnks for the reply’s!!! My 420 is about to start running again, I finally replaced all my ignition components and my cpk as well, when I started the car at first I could tell it was running better than before but it would still stall n die , and while accelerating it would jerk, then just now I unplugged the maf n it’s like a new car I drove it in the freeway and let’s just say I can’t whip this smirk if my face 
So hopefully once this new maf shows up I’ll fix ny issuesWill do thnks for the reply’s!!! My 420 is about to start running again, I finally replaced all my ignition components and my cpk as well, when I started the car at first I could tell it was running better than before but it would still stall n die , and while accelerating it would jerk, then just now I unplugged the maf n it’s like a new car I drove it in the freeway and let’s just say I can’t whip this smirk if my face
This is a reply from Cardone regarding rebuilding your MAF.
Good Morning, thank you for your request. I do apologize but we are currently out of stock with no E.T.A. as to when we will receive part # 74-10111. This part is however eligible for our rebuild and return program. To participate in the program you can take your core into any parts distributor that works with us, such as; Advance Auto Parts, Oreillys, Napa, Carquest, Pep Boys, and many others. The location will send your core to us, and once we receive your item there is a 3-5 business day turnaround time to complete a rebuild with an 80% chance of a rebuild. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us at 1-800-777-4780
Cardone uses part # 74-10111 for the m119 maf sensor it is out of stock but since a part # exists they confirm ability to rebuild to factory specs.....if Autozone or Orieleys is usef as middle man...
Has anyone tried this?
Also has anyone ever tried a Chinese new MAF?
Has anyone tried this?
Also has anyone ever tried a Chinese new MAF?
Checked post ....doesn't sound good
China had new ones cheap but you had to buy 5....that's gone...shipping is now over 1k due to tariffs...surprised no one ever tried one
Make sure the China ones are the proper size. There are some China MAF's on eBay which show the V8 part number, but they are NOT for the V8 engines, per their photos. For example:
Air Flow Sensor MAF For MERCEDES-BENZ W140 C140 R129 0280213015 0280213018 New | eBay
Part Number:0280213018 0280213015. Condition : New. NEW Arrival. (Compatible table only for reference). Due to different displays and light variations, all pictures shown may not reflect the actual color or condition of the item.
www.ebay.com
Afaict phone number email?
Just adding to the comments here on the maf dilemma:
I took the liberty to briefly look at the spares I have collected over the years tonight on the mafs.
In my collection of parts, I typically go by part# collection then toss them into various sorting bins to deal with later, sometimes much later.
Some SL models do use the same part# maf sensor (as I've collected those too, simply because the part#s match what I was looking for).
Never bothered to worry about the housing size; never thought about it, tbh.
Ray gave me a brain fart after reading his post.
I have not looked into any detail of whether the actual maf sensor itself can be removed on the w124.034/036s, but intuition tells me these where designed to be non-reopening units I presume??, hence they probably used ant-tampering screws of some sort (typical of some production lines to make life difficult (ie.$$$) for the masses). When some tell me its tamper-proof or anti-tamper (sort of like dysonball vacuums....) my mind goes awol. DysonBalls can be dissected - took me awhile to figure it out, but it's now a straight forward procedure. Having the correct tools does help too.
So back to these mafs; these sensors could be removed and repurposed; Maybe, maybe not.
I dont know at this moment. However, I do have one or two that I would certainly sacrifice on my bench (ie. the SL maf cans) to open up 'a can of worms', since the can size seems to be the issue here; yes no? when the part # of the sensor itself matches? (asking)
Additionally, I looked into my w124.032 maf spares and the casing ø is identical to that of a W124.036. Being involved in assembly design in past, you cant tell me that engineers and techs stopped looking for available in-the-market sourcing options and repetitive component use to save and become more efficient.
Now, I haven't researched any further than this so far, but perhaps members here will know more before I decide to put a SL maf can with the same sensor part# as the W124.034/036s, on the chopping block.
Enuf said for the evening.
Cheers.
I took the liberty to briefly look at the spares I have collected over the years tonight on the mafs.
In my collection of parts, I typically go by part# collection then toss them into various sorting bins to deal with later, sometimes much later.
Some SL models do use the same part# maf sensor (as I've collected those too, simply because the part#s match what I was looking for).
Never bothered to worry about the housing size; never thought about it, tbh.
Ray gave me a brain fart after reading his post.
I have not looked into any detail of whether the actual maf sensor itself can be removed on the w124.034/036s, but intuition tells me these where designed to be non-reopening units I presume??, hence they probably used ant-tampering screws of some sort (typical of some production lines to make life difficult (ie.$$$) for the masses). When some tell me its tamper-proof or anti-tamper (sort of like dysonball vacuums....) my mind goes awol. DysonBalls can be dissected - took me awhile to figure it out, but it's now a straight forward procedure. Having the correct tools does help too.
So back to these mafs; these sensors could be removed and repurposed; Maybe, maybe not.
I dont know at this moment. However, I do have one or two that I would certainly sacrifice on my bench (ie. the SL maf cans) to open up 'a can of worms', since the can size seems to be the issue here; yes no? when the part # of the sensor itself matches? (asking)
Additionally, I looked into my w124.032 maf spares and the casing ø is identical to that of a W124.036. Being involved in assembly design in past, you cant tell me that engineers and techs stopped looking for available in-the-market sourcing options and repetitive component use to save and become more efficient.
Now, I haven't researched any further than this so far, but perhaps members here will know more before I decide to put a SL maf can with the same sensor part# as the W124.034/036s, on the chopping block.
Enuf said for the evening.
Cheers.
The MAF's are not DIY serviceable. If you have a defective one you could open it up for grins, but don't expect to find anything inside you can fix. Most likely all the electronics are potted/encapsulated.
The .032 MAF will not work, full stop. It's a completely different design with HFM hot film sensor, vs the hot wire sensor on LH-SFI. And, the .032 housing is smaller diameter. Same issue with the 140.03x M104 LH-SFI MAF... correct hot wire, wrong diameter housing (6-cyl is smaller).
Anyway. Yes, all M119.97x MAF's are the same and interchangeable... so if it's on a 129/140 chassis with M119 and LH-SFI, it is the same and will work on the 034/036.
The .032 MAF will not work, full stop. It's a completely different design with HFM hot film sensor, vs the hot wire sensor on LH-SFI. And, the .032 housing is smaller diameter. Same issue with the 140.03x M104 LH-SFI MAF... correct hot wire, wrong diameter housing (6-cyl is smaller).
Anyway. Yes, all M119.97x MAF's are the same and interchangeable... so if it's on a 129/140 chassis with M119 and LH-SFI, it is the same and will work on the 034/036.
Ive worked on a 600SL with LH
Thise had 2 MAF with hybrid units boxes on them i got the diagram for the inside electronics but there's i big box in the midle they call hybrid unit. This is layed in a gummy like Mass you can't even with highly skilles professional electronic manufactor repair places do anything about.
But they are measurable as the outside terminal resistors will tell if they are shut or not. The same part is mounted to the 500E/E500 the LH controller does a startup check of the unit even before the engine is started. And at shut down it sends high current through the wire to burn off any residue. But that feature can in some cases getting locked so the 2-5 sec burn is not turned off again. LH controller isue.!
That will toast the MAF unit sadly.
That lso my best guess why we should never recircle the ignition key alot of times as it could Fry the MAF by that feature when turning the ignition off.
If you need to recircle the ignition for some testing or problems. Do it with a pause for my opinion not less than 30 sec, in between.
But the MAF is also ofdered to be tested at Kurth clasic center i Europe. It's a simple test that won't tell alot. But some is fixable as the hot wire can be bought or used from a volvo as I recall it. But if the hybrid unit is toast measures be the resistors inside. It's done dead for good. Might be used for parts housing HOT wire etc.
Thise had 2 MAF with hybrid units boxes on them i got the diagram for the inside electronics but there's i big box in the midle they call hybrid unit. This is layed in a gummy like Mass you can't even with highly skilles professional electronic manufactor repair places do anything about.
But they are measurable as the outside terminal resistors will tell if they are shut or not. The same part is mounted to the 500E/E500 the LH controller does a startup check of the unit even before the engine is started. And at shut down it sends high current through the wire to burn off any residue. But that feature can in some cases getting locked so the 2-5 sec burn is not turned off again. LH controller isue.!
That will toast the MAF unit sadly.
That lso my best guess why we should never recircle the ignition key alot of times as it could Fry the MAF by that feature when turning the ignition off.
If you need to recircle the ignition for some testing or problems. Do it with a pause for my opinion not less than 30 sec, in between.
But the MAF is also ofdered to be tested at Kurth clasic center i Europe. It's a simple test that won't tell alot. But some is fixable as the hot wire can be bought or used from a volvo as I recall it. But if the hybrid unit is toast measures be the resistors inside. It's done dead for good. Might be used for parts housing HOT wire etc.
The only test I know of is to install on an engine and view live data on SDS / HHT-Win, to see if the readings are normal or not. Usually bad MAF's have a fixed reading that does not vary with RPM, but there could be other failure modes.
I don't think it's easy to swap the hot wire from another MAF, I believe the electronics must be calibrated to the new wire, and we have no way to do that? My suspicion is the Bosch remanufacture process only re-used the housing (aluminum tube) and they simply installed new electronics + hot wire every time. But, I don't know for sure.
I don't think it's easy to swap the hot wire from another MAF, I believe the electronics must be calibrated to the new wire, and we have no way to do that? My suspicion is the Bosch remanufacture process only re-used the housing (aluminum tube) and they simply installed new electronics + hot wire every time. But, I don't know for sure.
I agree,The only test I know of is to install on an engine and view live data on SDS / HHT-Win, to see if the readings are normal or not. Usually bad MAF's have a fixed reading that does not vary with RPM, but there could be other failure modes.
I don't think it's easy to swap the hot wire from another MAF, I believe the electronics must be calibrated to the new wire, and we have no way to do that? My suspicion is the Bosch remanufacture process only re-used the housing (aluminum tube) and they simply installed new electronics + hot wire every time. But, I don't know for sure.
but I would not have a shortet MAF tried in a working car to short the LH control unit, so better to measure it by the diagram first as seen on your site under bosch MAFs
It should be short protected but I see that also on the stats for the output Transistor on the HFM controllers but even then, the bad wire harness is able to burn them in case of really bad harness shortening.
I tried a German Compani sold chainese V12 MASs and those where not even having the hybrid circuit in them go figur
same goes for the 119 hybrid MAFs so those are not worth the money.
So, Ive been letting my mind ponder on this ‘in the background of life’, on it’s own. I found a recent post on a parallel approach, so I am asking all of you for your valued input.The MAF's are not DIY serviceable. If you have a defective one you could open it up for grins, but don't expect to find anything inside you can fix. Most likely all the electronics are potted/encapsulated.
The .032 MAF will not work, full stop. It's a completely different design with HFM hot film sensor, vs the hot wire sensor on LH-SFI. And, the .032 housing is smaller diameter. Same issue with the 140.03x M104 LH-SFI MAF... correct hot wire, wrong diameter housing (6-cyl is smaller).
Anyway. Yes, all M119.97x MAF's are the same and interchangeable... so if it's on a 129/140 chassis with M119 and LH-SFI, it is the same and will work on the 034/036.
Since there is only a diameter size difference of the maf casing, could one not add-on a thin adapter to both ends of the slightly oversized diameter maf to compensate/ fit into place?
Or…is there more to ponder (other than some nondestructive mods…hopefully.
Me… just an older fart with too much time on my hands.
Very rough brain fart
I should clarify my posting #35.
Post#22 shows the difference in casing size. Mine are off R129s with the large diameter casing.
I have a few of these that have the same maf part# that are used for w124* m119s.
Just thinking aloud here- and applying my post#35 brainfart to possibly repurpose these mafs
Post#22 shows the difference in casing size. Mine are off R129s with the large diameter casing.
I have a few of these that have the same maf part# that are used for w124* m119s.
Just thinking aloud here- and applying my post#35 brainfart to possibly repurpose these mafs
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