Rust converter inhibitor that works?

[Duh_Vinci]

Cheers all!

Just discovered a small area in the battery compartment with some minor rust. Is there a product that you know of/tried that works , ONE STEP?

I know there is a POR-15, and alike, but I have no way of rinsing that area with water for 3 step application. I can use wire brush and clean up with alcohol for the prep. So 1 step brush on converter or one step spray converter is what I'm after.

Regards,
D

 

[gerryvz]

Don't bother with rust converter fluids, rust converter spray paints, and the like. You will get iffy results, and very very likely that the rust will come back. The best strategy is to encapsulate it, and POR-15 is your best bet for that.

Clean it up as best you can with a wire brush, and nearby/around the area. Vacuum the area with a shop vac, and sponge it with a wet sponge to clean up rust particles you've brushed loose. You want bare metal, or as close to it, as possible. Coat it with at least one, preferably two coats of POR-15, and you should be good to go. If you can't rinse or brush it, you can put the POR-15 on and it should still work just fine. One thick coat.

You can get a very small container of POR-15 via Amazon. When you finish using it, take a plastic sandwich bag and place it on top of the can. Then put the lid on, and hammer it down on top of the sandwich bag. That will seal the can from air, so you can use it again in the future.

 

[Duh_Vinci]

Don't bother with rust converter fluids, rust converter spray paints, and the like. You will get iffy results, and very very likely that the rust will come back. The best strategy is to encapsulate it, and POR-15 is your best bet for that.

Clean it up as best you can with a wire brush, and nearby/around the area. Vacuum the area with a shop vac, and sponge it with a wet sponge to clean up rust particles you've brushed loose. You want bare metal, or as close to it, as possible. Coat it with at least one, preferably two coats of POR-15, and you should be good to go. If you can't rinse or brush it, you can put the POR-15 on and it should still work just fine. One thick coat.

You can get a very small container of POR-15 via Amazon. When you finish using it, take a plastic sandwich bag and place it on top of the can. Then put the lid on, and hammer it down on top of the sandwich bag. That will seal the can from air, so you can use it again in the future.

Thanks for the tips, that's exactly what I was looking at first, Advance Auto Parts - POR-15



Available locally at Advance, will pick it up and just use wet sponge after the prep fluid and extra brushes for cleanup from a dollar store... I wasn't sure how detrimental is it to "rinse thoroughly" after step 1 and 2 per POR-15 instructions, but sponge will do indeed!

Regards,
D

 

[northNH]

Not sure I understand the recommendation of blanket avoidance of quality rust neutralizers…

35 years ago I used brush-on Loctite Extend neutralizer on an extremely surface-rusted steel bulkhead cover that is exposed to wet or snowy weather all year long.

Did no prep of the surface; rust turned black under an invisible clear coating within 24 hours.
Did not bother painting.
Today, zero rust return or change in appearance from when treated, still unpainted.

I have not however used it on a rusty car...

 

[Matt-R20]

We use Ospho to clean and stop rust. Its also paintable after it dries. Apply it with steel wool to clean the surface.

 

[IslandMon]

We use Ospho to clean and stop rust. Its also paintable after it dries. Apply it with steel wool to clean the surface.

+1 on Ospho, great product for neutralizing & stopping rust.

 

[JC220]

As a member who frequently repairs rust such as this:




I feel I am qualified to comment on the subject.

Rust converters are a waste of time if you want a proper, long term repair. They are merely a topping/ dressing to the rust. (I have 12 or so formulas all claiming be better than the last and they are all shite)

POR15 appears decent. But only if all steps are correctly followed, including the use of pre cleaners and metal prep solutions.

Cut the rust out. Weld in new metal. Make sure all welds are full seem welds and fully ssealed. No pinholes in the welds. Then treat the back side of the weld with zinc rich primer. Such as a Wurth product.



Once all severe rust is cut out I buff off any loose or peeling MB rubber Sealant. Then hot pressure wash and de grease the underbody. I use 2 pack epoxy "rust buster" undercoating kits which include a metal prep solution stage.



Then the best rust protection after it has been got rid of is to apply a few coats of a non setting Waxoyl coating.



This will not peel or harbour water like the MB rubber coating. It will also self heal Rock chips etc. I monitor it and re coat every 3 years or so and the car will remain 100% rust free for decades.

Remember to also flood the inner cills etc with clear / Amber warm rust proofing cavity wax.

 

[northNH]

Do you make house calls?

 

[alabbasi]

Rust converter is usually phosphoric acid mixed with something else. When brushed on, it will convert the rust into an inert compound that can be painted. It's used where metal is pitted because no amount of wire brushing will get the rust out. It's pretty cheap and works very well. Just sand the paint as much as you can and apply, then paint it with primer and top coat (automotive if you care to keep the color scheme or rustoleaum).

 

[mercepor]

JC220 's method is the best, no doubt
if you don't plan for decades, mipa products are very good

Car refinishing: MIPA SE

www.mipa-paints.com

 

[Duh_Vinci]

Thank you all very much for the feedback, appreciate it! @JC220 - my hero! That is amazing work Sir!

The only local product I could find in stock was the POR, after stopping by 3 Advace Auto stores, 1 actually had it on the shelf. It is a small part, where the battery acid leaked a little, I should be able to use wire brush attachment to clean out that corner, prep and seal. All looks like just a surface luckily.

Regards,
D