Sill structure/member PNs needed

[500AMM]

I recently closed a deal on my Limited with my "petrol head friend's" son living in my neighborhood, he will pick up the car in some weeks. The car is a resto object due to rust attacks mainly in both sill structure/members and not surprisingly the battery trunk bottom. He is not familiar with the W124 and E500 so I am going to help out providing the replacement parts. I am looking for a set of sill structure/member...not sure about the correct description, however it is the structure w/jack holes and welded onto the chassis. It is several vendors out there supplying the outer sheet metal/skin only, but I prefer the OE with jack hole tubes and bracings. Not sure about the PNs, could it be #124 680 01 74 LH and #124 680 02 74 RH?

1986-1993 Mercedes-Benz Sill Plate 124-680-01-74 | OEM Benz Parts

1986-1993 Mercedes-Benz part # 124-680-01-74 - Sill Plate

www.oembenzparts.com

 

[gsxr]

@JC220 is our structural welding expert...

 

[JC220]

@JC220 is our structural welding expert...

I'm an expert in something? Result!!

From what the OP describes he appears to be asking for outer cill sheetmetal sections at the jacking points. Buying a whole cill is quite unnecessary and may do more harm than good to go in replacing the whole thing.

Yes there are repair sections on flebay which have the general shape and hole punched in them which will work fine.

What I do myself now is use only hot dip galvanised material and use my workshop press to shape the metal at the jack point hole. Not hard to do and with decent gauge galvanised material used the repair will last indefinitely.

W220 but a recent example:

 

[JC220]

Pictures which better describe how the metal can be shaped easily if you have a press

 

[gerryvz]

I'm an expert in something?

Certainly not this?!?

 

[195910]

I would try to avoid welding if possible. But unfortunatly much of the jack points on the W124s are so rusted there is barely anything left.
luckily I did not have issues on both cars, but did preventative work of cleaning, treating and repainting the jack points to prevent rust.

 

[500AMM]

I'm an expert in something? Result!!

From what the OP describes he appears to be asking for outer cill sheetmetal sections at the jacking points. Buying a whole cill is quite unnecessary and may do more harm than good to go in replacing the whole thing.

Yes there are repair sections on flebay which have the general shape and hole punched in them which will work fine.

What I do myself now is use only hot dip galvanised material and use my workshop press to shape the metal at the jack point hole. Not hard to do and with decent gauge galvanised material used the repair will last indefinitely.

W220 but a recent example:
View attachment 119656View attachment 119657View attachment 119658View attachment 119659

Thanks for posting, Joe!
But no, this is not just a jackhole repair. This is far more extensive where at least the rear half of the sill structure on both sides needs replacement, they are badly eaten. Additionally the lower front section of the rear wheel wells at the transition to the floor panels, has to be replaced. The front end of the left side sill structure carrying the ASR pump bracket is also eaten. It is another couple of spots needing relatively minor repair work, plus the almost missing battery trunk bottom as mentioned in my first post. Strange enough are the jackholes and the surrounding plates not that bad. I am not sure what the new owner decide to do, but he definitely need complete sill structures to cut off what's needed in case he does a partial replacement.

I randomly picked that link to OEMBenzParts in my first post, it is listing two PNs for the sill structure on each side, item 12 and 13. I guess one is complete w/jackholes and bracings, and the other one is the sheet metal skin only. I need to know which one is what before placing the order, so any leads is highly appreciated.

--- --- --- ---
It is a couple of reasons for the severe rust damage on this car. This is a rebuilt/converted car done in 2000 and the following owner (..and the PO to me) used the car as a daily driver year around from 2001 to 2007. The PO cared a lot for the car and periodically maintained it at the MB shop, and when I bought it it had just a few rust spots, nothing more than expected on a daily driver. The car had a thorough undercarriage body treatment aka Tectyle, which apparently created a hidden rust bomb. During the PO's winter driving for 7 years mainly on traffic loaded roads which is heavily salted, the chemicals penetrated under the body coat and developed invisibly. I revealed the already far gone rust attack a couple of years later, but due to pretty bad health issues the following 2-3 years and other priorities, I lost control of the rust. The car went into storage late 2013. It is not in mint condition, but technically in good condtion, it's complete and ran very well, so it's definitely worth a resto job. I am really glad it will be taken care of now and the car may resurrect already next summer.