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SLS high in back
- Thread starter Dario
- Start date
I need two of those? How easy are they to replace? Not many people around me understand SLS system. Got part number for SLS spheres??? Thx
Gerry’s Uncle has a very good you tube series explaining the SLS system – I found it very useful before I repaired mine-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Q6H1WCDsLQ
To check the condition of both of the spheres you need to remove the lower hydraulic fitting & insert a wooden dowel (Something NOT sharp) into the sphere and see how far in it goes. If it hits the back of the sphere (like my pics attached) then the sphere is burst / defective.
Kent’s Videos describe all of this in detail.
As for the spheres – I bought 2 new Corteco Units (Who I believe are the OE supplier to Mercedes) and they were superb quality.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SET-REAR-SUSPENSION-SPHERE-PNEUMATIC-FOR-MODELS-WITH-RIDE-HEIGHT-CONTROL-124-210/111852444591
But do check the condition of the spheres first before ordering new ones – only Genuine MB from your dealer or Corteco recommended.
Keep in mind that the rear end should be jacked up a bit to depressurize the system before you disconnect the oil lines from the spheres. If not the car sinks down and you get a messy oil bath while you're in there.
The same applies when disconnecting the hydroshocks, doing by learning...or the opposite would be better in this case...
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4hr job, 6-10 beers. First timer, just did this last weekend. There's plenty of posts on how to do this, so I'll just add some quick notes that worked great for me. You will soon find out that the passenger side is the bitch. No room to get in there.
1) you will need to pull the line back slightly so it comes out of it's mounting to pull the accumulator out of its position. Before installing new unit, try to bend it back to its previous position, this will help align it again when you drop in the new unit and avoid cross threading
2) removing the 11mm on the passenger side will take a great bit of patience, 1/8 turns each time at best, just take your time. A great help, get a long shafted flat head screwdriver and once it loosens up, you can simply push against the edge of one of the points to loosen it all the way. Use the same technique when tightening - the concept here is that if it's cross threading, you will feel resistance very quickly with the screwdriver technique and you don't have enough leverage to force a cross thread. If it's threading properly you should be able to thread it with the screwdriver until it's snug enough to move to the wrench. Dab some hydro fluid on the threads of the new unit to help the 11mm nut spin. Of course this is assuming you're not dropping the axle or any removal of components to access the area.
Here is the spheres & oil line connections seen from underneath. Easy access with camera, but a bit tight for wrenching. I recommend using an open end spanner on the oil lines, makes it simpler.
https://www.google.com/search?site=.....3.14.1382...0j0i8i30i19k1.5SZgCpEs2Rw#imgrc=_
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