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Stalling

Cans

E500E Enthusiast
Member
Hello

I refueled my car after i refeuled the car begin staling when i gave 50% throttle when i give 20% throttle theres no problem
 
No ASR light?

Was this after you didn't drive the car for a few days, then drove it for a few minutes (20-30 mins), shut it down and drove with it a bit later again?

If so, there is probable moisture in your caps and rotors.

Check this thread:
 
no lights i didnt drive for 2 days then i drove it like for 1 hour i refueled now it has this problem
 
Typical caps and rotors, has nothing to do with the refueling, but more with the fact that you drove it (moisture in caps and rotors vaporized) and when you started again it's misfiring due to that vapour. Follow the thread i sent you and you'll be fine. Take the caps off and sand the rotor and cap contacts with some fine sandpaper, spray it all in with some brake cleaner and clean everything off. Let the brakecleaner vaporize, reassemble, should be fine for another few months depending otln the weather and how much you drive the car.
 
There’s no misfire when i give little gas there is no problem when i gave little more gas it does like the video
 
If you suspect there is water in the tank maybe try some ISO-HEET additive. Also, if it occurred after fueling maybe you stirred up sediment in the tank. I would consider replacing the fuel filter. They’re cheap enough.
 
If there is moisture in the caps, and there is NO oil leak from the cam seal or the cam solenoids, you need to add the ventilation slots to the cap as shown in the thread below:

 
The fuel filter is normally replaced every 60kmi / 100kkm and is not changed based on age. It's extremely rare to have a plugged fuel filter.

:mushroom:
 
i changed the rotors and the caps 30000 km before with ignition coils and the sparkplugs been 5000km all bosch
 
If there's NO misfire, and only a loss of power, you may have failing fuel pumps. This is difficult to diagnose without connecting a fuel pressure gauge that can be viewed while driving. If the pumps are original, try replacing them first (Bosch only, assuming you have a car with dual pumps).

:klink:
 
Test fuel pressure next to verify the regulator is working normally. You'll need more detailed diagnostics at this point. We need a LOT more information to help via keyboard.

:tumble:
 
Can clogged catalytic converters be ruled out here?

Try manually leaving the car in 1st gear and see if it breaks up or stumbles as you accelerate Into the higher RPM regime.
 
Jon, I was thinking that as well... need a lot more info to figure this out. Need to know if it's an intermittent issue, or if it's constant - in which case the car would not be driveable.

:scratchchin:
 
Hello
I dont have a fuel pressure gauge but i drove the car today when im at low speed and i kickdown it doesnt do the wobling but when im going 120 km/h when i kickdown its wobling
 
I doubt that it would be the throttle body, but you'll see how it turns out. Let us know what the mechanic says.

Good luck!
 
hello

When my mechanic bridges it with a hose the car goes to normal with a little misfire
 

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So was the intake vac line off or was it the EGR? My not be a bad idea at some point to get new connectors as those look cracked and "might" contribute to leaks as they could be OE. New Teclan pipe is cheep but it is solid white.
 
Both of the lines where off and bridged this like on the picture
 

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Both of the lines where off and bridged this like on the picture
With a hose "bridging" those two ports (applying vacuum to the EGR valve), the idle should get rough / worse when bridged, and return to normal / smooth with no vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
 
The idle should change between rough & smooth when you apply vacuum / remove vacuum from the EGR valve. If it changes between rough & smooth, the EGR valve should be OK.
 

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