Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:45 am
Okay, I've ordered the following parts to perform the oil change:
Transmission gasket 126 271 10 80
Transmission filter 129 277 01 95
Is there anything else I need to replace whilst I'm under there? Is there a seal ring that needs to be replaced?
The redline oils recommended on 2phast's website aren't imported into the UK. Would it be better to buy Mercedes oils direct or make the effort to get the redline stuff? The Merc stuff is ?70 or about $100 for 8 quarts.
So the plan is to open up bolt on the oil pan. Drain it - I'm expecting 4-5 quarts of oil from research on the forum. The next thing is to drain the torque converter which has the rest of the oil. How do I do this?
Here is a picture of oil being drained from the transmission oil pan taken from Rik's website. Could someone kindly let me know where the bolt for the torque converter is in relation to this?
Finally, how do I perform a flush on the transmission? I've tried to search the forums but with no success on this topic. Rik says "A trans fluid flush is always best if you have the equipment to do it". I've spoken to an old school local Merc specialist who said it's not possible/necessary. Could someone kindly outline the procedure/equipment necessary for this and I'll attempt a write up once I'm done.
Thanks,
Chaps
Last edited by Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby gsxr on Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:28 pm
When you drain the pan & converter, there is no need to "flush" anything... draining both (and changing the filter) gets probably 95% of the old fluid out. To drain the converter, you need to remove the exhaust crossover pipe which is in the way, then rotate the engine by hand (use the 27mm bolt at the front of the crank) until you can see the drain plug, then drain it. You cannot drain the converter without removing this exhaust pipe. Replace the seal under the drain plug (it is not the same seal as for the tranny pan drain plug - it is smaller & thinner). When full drained, the 500E transmission takes 8.0 quarts to re-fill.
Personally, I would use the Red Line fluid... the OE MB stuff is expensive, and probably not synthetic. Click here http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/MB_1994_Service_Products.pdf to see a PDF document showing the original Red Line formula officially approved by Mercedes (it's highlighted on page 2).
Click here http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Maintenance/94_95/2702.pdf for the factory procedure on draining the ATF and replacing the filter. This also shows the location of the torque converter drain plug. Also... DO NOT over-tighten the pan bolts!!!
:up2:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
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Postby brams on Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:30 pm
You really need two copper washers to seal the drain plugs, one on the converter and the other on the pan drain plug. Make sure the filter has the plastic oil trap on the bottom (for oil surge). To remove the sump and drain the converter you'll need to remove the exhaust at the front from the LH bank so might be an idea to replace those nuts and bolts as well, to flush it you insert a machine in the cooler line and it basically pumps the crap out.
Regarding flushing, I could not find anybody in Qatar that did it, so I ran my car with the sump/filter off in N for about 15 seconds and let it pump out what was left. There was no crap in the sump on my when I removed it so all I did after that was drop the oil on it's own 2 more times over a 1000km and left it at that. Seeing as the filter is a PITA to change I'm going to keep on top of the transmission oil and change it along with every engine oil change at 10,000km, I figure there will not be much need to do the filter for a few years.
If you can't get Redline in the UK, I'd go for a decent brand Dexron II/III made by Castrol/Shell/Mobil etc, that's what I did and mine is fine. Mercedes-Benz oil used to be (probably still is) rebranded Veedol lubricants so if you could find that that would be ideal.
Whilst you are under, check the engine supports, vacuum pipes on the mod valve and control pressure cable, transmission support and the front and rear propellor shaft flex discs for splitting.
Good luck
95 E500 Limited
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Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:10 pm
Thank you Gentlemen for your responses.
Dave, thanks for the links - that's exactly what I was looking for. However, I'm not sure how to tighten bolts to a specific torque setting. I only have a socket wrench; would I need to use a specialist drill to tighten the bolts just so?
I shall make the effort to get the Redline stuff. If it still doesn't work out, one of the main oil suppliers in the UK is called http://www.opieoils.co.uk They have a function on their website whereby you enter the model of your car and it spits out all the different oils and fluids that meet the requirements for your car.
Entering 500E results in Amsoil synthetic oil: here. It's pricey but what can you do?
Brams, doesn't the gasket perform the same function as the copper washer or do you recommend I get these in addition? Are they MB parts?
Whilst you are under, check the engine supports, vacuum pipes on the mod valve and control pressure cable, transmission support and the front and rear propellor shaft flex discs for splitting.
Brams, I have no idea how to check any of these but the car is going in for a service in the next few weeks and I'll get the mechanic to point them out to me and ensure they are okay. I'll use your flush technique and let you know how I got on. I'll be doing it next week when the parts arrive.
Thanks!
Chaps
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Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:32 pm
With a torque wrench ! Oh man this is getting expensive.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:00 pm
Chappardababbar wrote: Dave, thanks for the links - that's exactly what I was looking for. However, I'm not sure how to tighten bolts to a specific torque setting. I only have a socket wrench; would I need to use a specialist drill to tighten the bolts just so?
You'll need a torque wrench for low-torque settings, like 10-25Nm, or something similar. Or, just tighten slightly past "snug" by hand... don't use a lot of force. It's hard to explain how tight to make something, since it's higly subjective. That's why the torque wrench comes in handy. It's not required, just be warned that you could end up re-doing something if a bolt is too tight or too loose. But any DIY mechanic should have a couple of torque wrenches (of various ranges) in their toolbox.
Chappardababbar wrote:Entering 500E results in Amsoil synthetic oil: here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/showprodu...il-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid-atf. It's pricey but what can you do?
I'd avoid Amsoil, their ATF is the new, thinner Dexron-VI spec. Your original spec is Dex-II (which is what the Red Line ATF is), although Dex-III spec is also ok (this would be Red Line D4, which is also acceptable). You don't want Red Line D6, which is the Dex-VI spec.
Chappardababbar wrote:Brams, doesn't the gasket perform the same function as the copper washer or do you recommend I get these in addition? Are they MB parts?
There are 2 different seal rings, one for each of the drain plugs:
000125-008443 is the seal ring for the tranny pan drain plug
007603-010100 is the seal ring for the torque converter drain plug
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
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Postby brams on Tue Apr 07, 2009 4:25 am
Chappardababbar wrote:Brams, I have no idea how to check any of these but the car is going in for a service in the next few weeks and I'll get the mechanic to point them out to me and ensure they are okay. I'll use your flush technique and let you know how I got on. I'll be doing it next week when the parts arrive.
Thanks!
Chaps
The last thing I want to do is discourage you, the best way to get to know your 500E is to work her, I just want you to be aware that working on auto transmissions demands utmost cleanliness and from the above statement it seems you don't have much experience repairing cars. Dave already mentioned the points about torque wrenches. If you are going to take to a mechanic anyway, then perhaps it would be better to let him deal with or do it youself under his supervision if you really want to get your hand dirty. Just a care point, if something goes wrong, transmissions cost quite a bit to repair.
95 E500 Limited
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Postby Chappardababbar on Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:06 pm
Dave, Redline D4, it is, I will pick up a torque wrench this weekend.
Brams, I have ordered the copper washers you recommended.
Also thank you for your concern. I think since I'm going to get under the car (axle stands) for an oil change (also my first!) as well as clean up of an undetermined oil leak anyway, I'll take a look at the transmission and see how comfortable I am with it once I have an idea of what I have to do. I am a complete amateur with car maintenance but I feel it's something that should be within my capabilities and I'm keen to learn especially seeing how most of you seem to service your cars yourselves.
I figure that if I get it wrong, the mechanic will be able to put it right. Also, I'm having engine mounts done next week and still have a wiring harness at home which I've been meaning to do for ages. By doing some of the easier jobs myself I'm hoping to keep labour costs as low as possible.
I'll let you know what happens.
Chaps.
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Postby gsxr on Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:37 pm
Chappardababbar wrote: Dave, Redline D4, it is, I will pick up a torque wrench this weekend.
Make sure the torque wrench you buy is of the proper range... for the transmission pan bolts (which are the primary bolts you worry abou torqueing), you will need a wrench with low readings, possibly in inch-pounds and N-cm (instead of the usual foot-pounds and Nm).
Chappardababbar wrote:I figure that if I get it wrong, the mechanic will be able to put it right. By doing some of the easier jobs myself I'm hoping to keep labour costs as low as possible.
The only way I'm able to afford any Mercedes is because I do 99% of the maintenance &repairs myself. I learned by reading the factory service manuals, and asking questions on forums like this. 12+ years later, I've done an awful lot of different jobs, and I'm still learning new things (just did M119 valve cover gasket for the first time last month, and I'm trying some differential setup work as well). As long as you are willing to take it to the mechanic if you screw up, you're fine. I figure the same thing - worst case, I'll have to take it to the dealer to fix it. So far, I haven't had to do that, ever... I've always managed to do it myself. (I did bring them a tranny to re-seal once, but next time I'll do that myself too!)
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Postby Chappardababbar on Tue Apr 07, 2009 6:45 pm
Factory service manual? So that's where the PDF you sent me in the above post was from?
Is ebay the best place for one of these?
8 quarts of D4 is coming out at $150 delivered. Ouch! Now I can understand why services are so expensive.
Something that has just occurred to me is that my car will be at an angle as it'll be on stands at the front. Will this hinder the flow of oil out of the converter? Obviously the pan will come off anyway so I can simply tip out any remaining oil. I'm then going to clean the plan thoroughly with water and allow it to completely dry before putting it back.
I think you have to force yourself out of your comfort zone in order to learn and that's what I'm trying to do. I appreciate you guys taking the time to answer what may seem like trivial questions to you.
On that note, I just wanted to check where to put the axle stands on my car - obviously not wanting to damage any bodywork. I appreciate they are called axle stands for a reason and I should be able to figure it out from this but best to be safe rather than sorry. I was actually planning on putting them where the jacking points are...
I picked up the following 6 tonne axle stands last week:
Along with a heavy duty jack.
Question where do the axle stands go?
Jacking point is second photo, and I'm guessing the stands go somewhere on the third photo?
Finally I was thinking of placing the jack somewhere, possibly at the front of the car near the tow point at a tension that will provide extra support and hopefully will catch the car in case one or both of the stands fail. Is this what people do?
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Tue Apr 07, 2009 7:21 pm
The factory service manual is available via the dealership, or copies via eBay, or this helpful person posted it online at this URL. The tranny service document I referenced is under the "maintenance" section (click M119, then 00 - Maintenance, then Maintenance Jobs 94-97, then 2702).
I'd clean the pan with solvent, like carburetor cleaner, brake cleaner, paint thinner, or even gasoline. Just make sure it's wiped clean & dry and there is no lint from paper towels or rags left in the pan.
I always jack up the car with a hydraulic floor jack, at one of the four rubber pads shown in your second photo. Or, if the jack will fit under the car, you can lift at the engine crossmember. Then, put the jack stand under the control arms, shown in the third photo (or under the crossmember, whichever is easier, depending on your lift points).
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Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:47 pm
Thanks gsxr,
I've just done an oil change which has boosted my confidence. I bought a torque wrench with a range of 8-60NM and it's probably my favourite thing in the world right now.
Whilst I was under I took a good look at the transmission and you are right, the crossover pipe is directly in the way of the access hole for the torque converter plug. The problem is that the bolts that hold the pipe in place are rusted SOLID. I'm not too worried about damaging it as I'm due for an exhaust anyway but I'm going to hold off on this as I'm worried about making the car un-driveable.
Stupid question but if I do change the oil, will this need to be done again anyway when the transmission is serviced in the next couple of weeks? What exactly does the transmission service consist of?
OFF TOPIC
Part no: 126 271 10 80 (Transmission gasket) just arrived this morning along with a whole load of other replacement parts. Is this the transmission bushing or transmission mount?
EDIT: It follows the outline of the transmission pan and is about 1cm thick.
Chappardababbar
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Postby 2phast on Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:11 pm
This project is soooo much easier if your car is on a lift. Personally, I would never crawl under any of my cars and try this type of service, its just too cramped, even on jack stands. You also need some room for leverage to get access to the drain plug for the torque converter.
My comments about "transmission flushing" is common from MB technicians hence why I posted it, but its more applicable to later model 722.6 five-speed transmissions that don't provide a way to drain the torque converter, which I suspect is the majority of the trans services they perform.
2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:30 pm
Still psyching myself up for this job. Rik, a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind..
I have the following bits:
Which look different to the filter posted on your website:
Have I got the right stuff?
Also, whilst I'm down there I thought I'd do the shifter linkages (one of which is shown in the pic, I believe I need another identical part). I've tried to find a procedure for these (ideally with pics) but with no success either from gsxr's online service manual or 500ecstasy. From what I've read it's fiddly but very do-able. Any ideas?
Finally, is that rectangular rubber piece the transmission mount that is always mentioned along with engine mounts or is that something different?
Chappardababbar
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Postby 2phast on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:41 pm
Looks the same to me, the packaging is probably throwing you off, as I didn't get my parts directly from MB.
Never have done the shifter bushings, so I wouldn't be of much help in that area.
See picture for transmission mount.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:44 pm
Thanks, I'll forward that to my parts guy.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:46 pm
The transmission mount shown above is for all W124's without V8 engines. The models with V8 engines use a different, more robust tranny mount, from the 140 chassis... see below:
The tranny mount for the 124.034 & 124.036 is part number 140-240-03-18.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:54 pm
Just one required? I can't picture how the whole transmission would sit on that.
I'm guessing this is not such a DIY-er (I have a deluded sense of my abilities after my oil change) and can it be done without having to re-do a trans change? i.e. does it have to be done at the same time?
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:47 pm
It just supports the rear of the tranny. The primary weight is supported by the two engine mounts. The transmission itself only weighs something like 125 pounds (I think). You can change the mount at any time, it doesn't need to be done when the ATF fluid & filter is changed. Here are the only two photos I have of this area... the mount sits above the silver colored cross-piece.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:54 pm
Thanks for all your help Dave. I'm going to do this first thing in the morning. I'll let you know what happens.
Chappardababbar
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Postby 2phast on Thu Apr 16, 2009 1:10 am
The tranny mount for the 124.034 & 124.036 is part number 140-240-03-18.
My bad, Dave is correct, thats a 6 banger trans mount
1993 500E
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:14 am
Cool, cheers guys.
Chappardababbar
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Postby omegabenz on Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:35 am
Don't be freaked out when you see little bits of clutch material in your tranny pan. Also make sure you tighten the pan evenly otherwise you'll have to pull it down multiple times.
You should change your tranny cooler lines when you do the filter change though. I would do a tranny mount when you do the motor mounts to keep the drivetrain colinear.
I posted all this on 500ecstasy if you want to comb through it. I would maybe suggest that you write a WIKI page for this when you are done for everyones' benifit.
Here are some pics to get you started.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:02 pm
Omegabenz, you're killing me. I there anything that does not need to be replaced?
The cooler lines are coming out at ?220 which I cannot afford right now.
Regarding turning the crank, I'm guessing the gearbox needs to be in neutral for this? Do I need a specific tool to do this (breaker bar? size? socket size?) and will it be obvious what I need to do?
Is it also absolutely necessary for the exhaust to be dropped? M104-AMG posted on ecstasy that:
"If you get a 1/4-drive 5mm hex-head Stahlwillie socket and a short wobble-extension, you won't need to drop the exhaust cross-pipe". I imagined using a small funnel and tubing to prevent oil from getting on the exhaust. A good friend of mine and previous owner (MrMotul) also mentioned that it wasn't necessary though having seen the area I can't see how i'll get my (beautiful) torque wrench in there. Anyone?
GSXR posted: "You need to either disconnect the flexible cooler line up by the radiator, or unscrew the banjo bolt for the metal cooler line on the side of the tranny". This is in order to prevent glug glug and enable smoother draining of oil from torque converter. Just as a heads up, where on the tranny is this. Under the car, feet towards engine, looking up, are we talking north, south, east, west side?
Chappardababbar
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:30 pm
OFF TOPIC:
That first photo of your transmission pan has made me realise the importance of taking photos when doing these jobs.
Usually when one buys a car, one looks at the service history and ensure the car has been taken to reputable garages for servicing. This affects the price you are prepared to pay for the car. If you do the work yourself, you cannot prove this when the fact is that there is no way any independent would put as much love into your transmission pan as you have. The picture shows a far higher level of maintenance than you would get had the car been taken to MB.
Similarly, when I did my (super duper) oil change the other day, I cleaned the large plastic cover meticulously and dressed it on the inside for no reason whatsoever other than it made me happy but I didn't take a photo of it.
I think it would be useful to have these on file simply as proof of quality of work when the time comes to sell.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:18 pm
I think he meant the rubber hoses up by the radiator, which are fairly cheap... $20-$30 USD each. If they are dry and not leaking, they are ok for now. If there is any trace of red ATF... it's time to replace them. The metal lines which attach to the engine & tranny don't need replacement unless they are rusted / corroded. Check the rubber clamps which fasten the metal lines to the block, if the rubber is missing, replace the clamps (about $2 USD each).
No, the gearbox can be in P. Socket size 27mm, a normal 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar works fine, with a deep socket (or short extension). Space may be tight around the fan shroud, though.
I've never seen it done, but apparently Neil has done it. I wouldn't do that unless the exhaust bolts were seized up. It will pour ATF all over the exhaust. You don't need to worry too much about torquing the drain plug, those just get set "snug" by hand... don't overtighten them. I only use the torque wrench on the six pan bolts, I go in a criss-cross pattern at 5Nm first, then a second time to the 8Nm spec.
I've actually done it with & without, and most of the time it doesn't seem to make much difference... it still "glug glugs" out anyway. I'd just leave them alone. The banjo bolt is at the transmission end of the metal cooler line which goes to the radiator. It should be shown in the factory procedure. But again, you can skip this step if you want.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:04 pm
Okay thanks. I might as well get the hoses as well since it'll probably be a while until the next oil change so, again, I'll hold off until I figure out the parts required and get them in (next week now).
The metal lines look badly corroded (as well as the diff and suspension) but they'll have to be done another time.
Image
Final question: are these points okay for axle stands at the rear?
Last edited by Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:29 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:24 pm
Here's a fuzzy photo showing the two transmission cooler hoses:
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Postby omegabenz on Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:47 am
NO, Everything needs to be replaced...especially anything rubber that is over 10 yrs old IMO.
sounds like they quoted you for the hardlines.
You spent more time doing the thread than actually just doing it.
Yeah you can just let the oil drip over the exhaust, but yes that does create a flammabile situation. You could drape some plastic over the exhaust or a metal trowell or something.
I change my oil HOT, but for a first timer you may want to do it cold so it doesnt burn you.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
omegabenz
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:56 am
Okay, I drained the rear diff and moved onto the torque converter.
I've got the 27mm socket but can't figure out where it goes. I thought it would be on the lowest pulley on the driver's side but the only socket on that was a 10mm. When I turned this, only the face of the pulley moved but the belt did not move. I've attached a few photos, it would be helpful if someone could point to the right one.
Also, clockwise or anti-clockwise? If you're under the car facing the torque converter (i.e. facing towards front of the car) the plug is just out of reach to the right of centre.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Wed Apr 22, 2009 3:11 pm
It's the largest pulley of them all, at the bottom center. It is not easy to get a socket on the 27mm bolt, or even SEE it, but you can see where it's located in this photo:
Image
As you face the engine (standing in front of the car), it would rotate clockwise, like you were tightening the 27mm bolt.
If the drain plug is THAT close... you can CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry against the torque converter housing (via the opening where you see the plug) to rotate the converter just enough, in either direction, to get the plug centered in the opening. DO NOT pry hard enough to dent the converter - this could damage it, and that much force is not needed to move the converter. There are little "bumps" on the converter surface which the screwdriver can grab (barely).
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:12 pm
Thanks Dave, I just figured it out. I had to buy a deeper 27mm socket, as 1/2 inch with short extension was too long (fan was in the way) and no extension meant the surround of the pulley was getting in the way.
For a while I thought I was going to do some damage as I wasn't expecting it to be so difficult to turn the engine. I had to get both hands on the socket - pretty scary when you're under the car!
Oil is completely cold by now but at least I know for next time.
Chappardababbar
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:42 pm
Done, thanks for all your help (so far) guys! See wiki below plus link to transmission mount change.
http://www.500eboard.com/wiki/index.php ... oil_change
Still working on them, need to add more photos details, but feel free to edit.
Chappardababbar
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Postby choe420 on Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:16 pm
Wow - just had the transmission mount changed, as well as the transmission flushed, what a difference! Also did the engine mounts. Together with the distributor caps and rotors and fresh plugs that I replaced over the weekend, it feels like almost a new car!
Thanks again everybody for your suggestions and encouragement!
Michel
1994 E420 Smokesilver/parchment
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Postby Chappardababbar on Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:15 pm
No, thank YOU Michel. It's taken 6 weeks for someone to appreciate my wiki.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gerryvz on Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:33 am
I have been consistently telling EVERYONE on this board this same exact thing for the past 5 years now. Few people seem to want to listen to this advice.
If you don't know that your motor and tranny mounts have been changed in the past 25,000 miles (and your car has 75K+ miles on it), it is highly likely that they are OVERDUE, and if you change them, it will indeed feel like a new car.
Thanks for confirming what I've been telling folks for ages. I changed my mounts around 80K miles (nearly 25K miles ago) and indeed it is quite a positive change.
Cheers,
Gerry
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Postby choe420 on Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:51 am
As far as I can tell, the motor mounts and transmission mount were original to the car. I am the 2nd owner, since 12/94 & 62.5K miles, now 115k miles. Not sure when the last transmission fluid change was. I also think one of the distributor caps and rotors may have been original. The other set had 55K miles or so on it as I changed them when I first got the car.
Thanks!
Michel
1994 E420 Smokesilver/parchment
choe420
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:43 pm
Michel, did you do the motor mounts yourself? I have a brand new set ready and want to do it myself but I think it might be a bit too much for someone of my experience. Plus I don't have access to a lift - only axle stands.
Chappardababbar
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Postby choe420 on Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:29 pm
I am afraid I did not tackle the motor mount, transmission mount, nor the transmission cooler lines myself. My friendly MB dealer here in Charlottesville, VA took care of it. I am able to do some items, but this looked like a much larger job than I'm comforable with.
I think 2phast mentioned that a lift would be really helpful with this job, as the clearance with stands is not too much and the safety aspect is another concern. So...better that a qualified mechanic deal with this than me botching the job. The dealer here is very good and reasonable cost wise compared to the one independent MB shop. I did buy the parts from Rusty @ buymbparts since they allowed me to bring in my own (without mark-up) and saved a bundle on those costs alone. Together with doing my own work on the plugs and both sets of distributor rotors and caps the overall cost was half of the original dealer quote. In this market, I am sure they were happy to get the labor portion, rather than losing the whole job.
Hope this helps!
Michel
1994 E420 Smokesilver/parchment
Okay, I've ordered the following parts to perform the oil change:
Transmission gasket 126 271 10 80
Transmission filter 129 277 01 95
Is there anything else I need to replace whilst I'm under there? Is there a seal ring that needs to be replaced?
The redline oils recommended on 2phast's website aren't imported into the UK. Would it be better to buy Mercedes oils direct or make the effort to get the redline stuff? The Merc stuff is ?70 or about $100 for 8 quarts.
So the plan is to open up bolt on the oil pan. Drain it - I'm expecting 4-5 quarts of oil from research on the forum. The next thing is to drain the torque converter which has the rest of the oil. How do I do this?
Here is a picture of oil being drained from the transmission oil pan taken from Rik's website. Could someone kindly let me know where the bolt for the torque converter is in relation to this?
Finally, how do I perform a flush on the transmission? I've tried to search the forums but with no success on this topic. Rik says "A trans fluid flush is always best if you have the equipment to do it". I've spoken to an old school local Merc specialist who said it's not possible/necessary. Could someone kindly outline the procedure/equipment necessary for this and I'll attempt a write up once I'm done.
Thanks,
Chaps
Last edited by Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby gsxr on Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:28 pm
When you drain the pan & converter, there is no need to "flush" anything... draining both (and changing the filter) gets probably 95% of the old fluid out. To drain the converter, you need to remove the exhaust crossover pipe which is in the way, then rotate the engine by hand (use the 27mm bolt at the front of the crank) until you can see the drain plug, then drain it. You cannot drain the converter without removing this exhaust pipe. Replace the seal under the drain plug (it is not the same seal as for the tranny pan drain plug - it is smaller & thinner). When full drained, the 500E transmission takes 8.0 quarts to re-fill.
Personally, I would use the Red Line fluid... the OE MB stuff is expensive, and probably not synthetic. Click here http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/MB_1994_Service_Products.pdf to see a PDF document showing the original Red Line formula officially approved by Mercedes (it's highlighted on page 2).
Click here http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Maintenance/94_95/2702.pdf for the factory procedure on draining the ATF and replacing the filter. This also shows the location of the torque converter drain plug. Also... DO NOT over-tighten the pan bolts!!!
:up2:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
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Postby brams on Mon Apr 06, 2009 4:30 pm
You really need two copper washers to seal the drain plugs, one on the converter and the other on the pan drain plug. Make sure the filter has the plastic oil trap on the bottom (for oil surge). To remove the sump and drain the converter you'll need to remove the exhaust at the front from the LH bank so might be an idea to replace those nuts and bolts as well, to flush it you insert a machine in the cooler line and it basically pumps the crap out.
Regarding flushing, I could not find anybody in Qatar that did it, so I ran my car with the sump/filter off in N for about 15 seconds and let it pump out what was left. There was no crap in the sump on my when I removed it so all I did after that was drop the oil on it's own 2 more times over a 1000km and left it at that. Seeing as the filter is a PITA to change I'm going to keep on top of the transmission oil and change it along with every engine oil change at 10,000km, I figure there will not be much need to do the filter for a few years.
If you can't get Redline in the UK, I'd go for a decent brand Dexron II/III made by Castrol/Shell/Mobil etc, that's what I did and mine is fine. Mercedes-Benz oil used to be (probably still is) rebranded Veedol lubricants so if you could find that that would be ideal.
Whilst you are under, check the engine supports, vacuum pipes on the mod valve and control pressure cable, transmission support and the front and rear propellor shaft flex discs for splitting.
Good luck
95 E500 Limited
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Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:10 pm
Thank you Gentlemen for your responses.
Dave, thanks for the links - that's exactly what I was looking for. However, I'm not sure how to tighten bolts to a specific torque setting. I only have a socket wrench; would I need to use a specialist drill to tighten the bolts just so?
I shall make the effort to get the Redline stuff. If it still doesn't work out, one of the main oil suppliers in the UK is called http://www.opieoils.co.uk They have a function on their website whereby you enter the model of your car and it spits out all the different oils and fluids that meet the requirements for your car.
Entering 500E results in Amsoil synthetic oil: here. It's pricey but what can you do?
Brams, doesn't the gasket perform the same function as the copper washer or do you recommend I get these in addition? Are they MB parts?
Whilst you are under, check the engine supports, vacuum pipes on the mod valve and control pressure cable, transmission support and the front and rear propellor shaft flex discs for splitting.
Brams, I have no idea how to check any of these but the car is going in for a service in the next few weeks and I'll get the mechanic to point them out to me and ensure they are okay. I'll use your flush technique and let you know how I got on. I'll be doing it next week when the parts arrive.
Thanks!
Chaps
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Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 06, 2009 10:32 pm
With a torque wrench ! Oh man this is getting expensive.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Mon Apr 06, 2009 11:00 pm
Chappardababbar wrote: Dave, thanks for the links - that's exactly what I was looking for. However, I'm not sure how to tighten bolts to a specific torque setting. I only have a socket wrench; would I need to use a specialist drill to tighten the bolts just so?
You'll need a torque wrench for low-torque settings, like 10-25Nm, or something similar. Or, just tighten slightly past "snug" by hand... don't use a lot of force. It's hard to explain how tight to make something, since it's higly subjective. That's why the torque wrench comes in handy. It's not required, just be warned that you could end up re-doing something if a bolt is too tight or too loose. But any DIY mechanic should have a couple of torque wrenches (of various ranges) in their toolbox.
Chappardababbar wrote:Entering 500E results in Amsoil synthetic oil: here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/showprodu...il-synthetic-automatic-transmission-fluid-atf. It's pricey but what can you do?
I'd avoid Amsoil, their ATF is the new, thinner Dexron-VI spec. Your original spec is Dex-II (which is what the Red Line ATF is), although Dex-III spec is also ok (this would be Red Line D4, which is also acceptable). You don't want Red Line D6, which is the Dex-VI spec.
Chappardababbar wrote:Brams, doesn't the gasket perform the same function as the copper washer or do you recommend I get these in addition? Are they MB parts?
There are 2 different seal rings, one for each of the drain plugs:
000125-008443 is the seal ring for the tranny pan drain plug
007603-010100 is the seal ring for the torque converter drain plug
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
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Postby brams on Tue Apr 07, 2009 4:25 am
Chappardababbar wrote:Brams, I have no idea how to check any of these but the car is going in for a service in the next few weeks and I'll get the mechanic to point them out to me and ensure they are okay. I'll use your flush technique and let you know how I got on. I'll be doing it next week when the parts arrive.
Thanks!
Chaps
The last thing I want to do is discourage you, the best way to get to know your 500E is to work her, I just want you to be aware that working on auto transmissions demands utmost cleanliness and from the above statement it seems you don't have much experience repairing cars. Dave already mentioned the points about torque wrenches. If you are going to take to a mechanic anyway, then perhaps it would be better to let him deal with or do it youself under his supervision if you really want to get your hand dirty. Just a care point, if something goes wrong, transmissions cost quite a bit to repair.
95 E500 Limited
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Postby Chappardababbar on Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:06 pm
Dave, Redline D4, it is, I will pick up a torque wrench this weekend.
Brams, I have ordered the copper washers you recommended.
Also thank you for your concern. I think since I'm going to get under the car (axle stands) for an oil change (also my first!) as well as clean up of an undetermined oil leak anyway, I'll take a look at the transmission and see how comfortable I am with it once I have an idea of what I have to do. I am a complete amateur with car maintenance but I feel it's something that should be within my capabilities and I'm keen to learn especially seeing how most of you seem to service your cars yourselves.
I figure that if I get it wrong, the mechanic will be able to put it right. Also, I'm having engine mounts done next week and still have a wiring harness at home which I've been meaning to do for ages. By doing some of the easier jobs myself I'm hoping to keep labour costs as low as possible.
I'll let you know what happens.
Chaps.
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Postby gsxr on Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:37 pm
Chappardababbar wrote: Dave, Redline D4, it is, I will pick up a torque wrench this weekend.
Make sure the torque wrench you buy is of the proper range... for the transmission pan bolts (which are the primary bolts you worry abou torqueing), you will need a wrench with low readings, possibly in inch-pounds and N-cm (instead of the usual foot-pounds and Nm).
Chappardababbar wrote:I figure that if I get it wrong, the mechanic will be able to put it right. By doing some of the easier jobs myself I'm hoping to keep labour costs as low as possible.
The only way I'm able to afford any Mercedes is because I do 99% of the maintenance &repairs myself. I learned by reading the factory service manuals, and asking questions on forums like this. 12+ years later, I've done an awful lot of different jobs, and I'm still learning new things (just did M119 valve cover gasket for the first time last month, and I'm trying some differential setup work as well). As long as you are willing to take it to the mechanic if you screw up, you're fine. I figure the same thing - worst case, I'll have to take it to the dealer to fix it. So far, I haven't had to do that, ever... I've always managed to do it myself. (I did bring them a tranny to re-seal once, but next time I'll do that myself too!)
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Postby Chappardababbar on Tue Apr 07, 2009 6:45 pm
Factory service manual? So that's where the PDF you sent me in the above post was from?
Is ebay the best place for one of these?
8 quarts of D4 is coming out at $150 delivered. Ouch! Now I can understand why services are so expensive.
Something that has just occurred to me is that my car will be at an angle as it'll be on stands at the front. Will this hinder the flow of oil out of the converter? Obviously the pan will come off anyway so I can simply tip out any remaining oil. I'm then going to clean the plan thoroughly with water and allow it to completely dry before putting it back.
I think you have to force yourself out of your comfort zone in order to learn and that's what I'm trying to do. I appreciate you guys taking the time to answer what may seem like trivial questions to you.
On that note, I just wanted to check where to put the axle stands on my car - obviously not wanting to damage any bodywork. I appreciate they are called axle stands for a reason and I should be able to figure it out from this but best to be safe rather than sorry. I was actually planning on putting them where the jacking points are...
I picked up the following 6 tonne axle stands last week:
Along with a heavy duty jack.
Question where do the axle stands go?
Jacking point is second photo, and I'm guessing the stands go somewhere on the third photo?
Finally I was thinking of placing the jack somewhere, possibly at the front of the car near the tow point at a tension that will provide extra support and hopefully will catch the car in case one or both of the stands fail. Is this what people do?
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Tue Apr 07, 2009 7:21 pm
The factory service manual is available via the dealership, or copies via eBay, or this helpful person posted it online at this URL. The tranny service document I referenced is under the "maintenance" section (click M119, then 00 - Maintenance, then Maintenance Jobs 94-97, then 2702).
I'd clean the pan with solvent, like carburetor cleaner, brake cleaner, paint thinner, or even gasoline. Just make sure it's wiped clean & dry and there is no lint from paper towels or rags left in the pan.
I always jack up the car with a hydraulic floor jack, at one of the four rubber pads shown in your second photo. Or, if the jack will fit under the car, you can lift at the engine crossmember. Then, put the jack stand under the control arms, shown in the third photo (or under the crossmember, whichever is easier, depending on your lift points).
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Postby Chappardababbar on Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:47 pm
Thanks gsxr,
I've just done an oil change which has boosted my confidence. I bought a torque wrench with a range of 8-60NM and it's probably my favourite thing in the world right now.
Whilst I was under I took a good look at the transmission and you are right, the crossover pipe is directly in the way of the access hole for the torque converter plug. The problem is that the bolts that hold the pipe in place are rusted SOLID. I'm not too worried about damaging it as I'm due for an exhaust anyway but I'm going to hold off on this as I'm worried about making the car un-driveable.
Stupid question but if I do change the oil, will this need to be done again anyway when the transmission is serviced in the next couple of weeks? What exactly does the transmission service consist of?
OFF TOPIC
Part no: 126 271 10 80 (Transmission gasket) just arrived this morning along with a whole load of other replacement parts. Is this the transmission bushing or transmission mount?
EDIT: It follows the outline of the transmission pan and is about 1cm thick.
Chappardababbar
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Postby 2phast on Mon Apr 13, 2009 8:11 pm
This project is soooo much easier if your car is on a lift. Personally, I would never crawl under any of my cars and try this type of service, its just too cramped, even on jack stands. You also need some room for leverage to get access to the drain plug for the torque converter.
My comments about "transmission flushing" is common from MB technicians hence why I posted it, but its more applicable to later model 722.6 five-speed transmissions that don't provide a way to drain the torque converter, which I suspect is the majority of the trans services they perform.
2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:30 pm
Still psyching myself up for this job. Rik, a couple of questions if you wouldn't mind..
I have the following bits:
Which look different to the filter posted on your website:
Have I got the right stuff?
Also, whilst I'm down there I thought I'd do the shifter linkages (one of which is shown in the pic, I believe I need another identical part). I've tried to find a procedure for these (ideally with pics) but with no success either from gsxr's online service manual or 500ecstasy. From what I've read it's fiddly but very do-able. Any ideas?
Finally, is that rectangular rubber piece the transmission mount that is always mentioned along with engine mounts or is that something different?
Chappardababbar
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Postby 2phast on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:41 pm
Looks the same to me, the packaging is probably throwing you off, as I didn't get my parts directly from MB.
Never have done the shifter bushings, so I wouldn't be of much help in that area.
See picture for transmission mount.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:44 pm
Thanks, I'll forward that to my parts guy.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:46 pm
The transmission mount shown above is for all W124's without V8 engines. The models with V8 engines use a different, more robust tranny mount, from the 140 chassis... see below:
The tranny mount for the 124.034 & 124.036 is part number 140-240-03-18.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 6:54 pm
Just one required? I can't picture how the whole transmission would sit on that.
I'm guessing this is not such a DIY-er (I have a deluded sense of my abilities after my oil change) and can it be done without having to re-do a trans change? i.e. does it have to be done at the same time?
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Wed Apr 15, 2009 8:47 pm
It just supports the rear of the tranny. The primary weight is supported by the two engine mounts. The transmission itself only weighs something like 125 pounds (I think). You can change the mount at any time, it doesn't need to be done when the ATF fluid & filter is changed. Here are the only two photos I have of this area... the mount sits above the silver colored cross-piece.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:54 pm
Thanks for all your help Dave. I'm going to do this first thing in the morning. I'll let you know what happens.
Chappardababbar
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Postby 2phast on Thu Apr 16, 2009 1:10 am
The tranny mount for the 124.034 & 124.036 is part number 140-240-03-18.
My bad, Dave is correct, thats a 6 banger trans mount
1993 500E
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:14 am
Cool, cheers guys.
Chappardababbar
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Postby omegabenz on Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:35 am
Don't be freaked out when you see little bits of clutch material in your tranny pan. Also make sure you tighten the pan evenly otherwise you'll have to pull it down multiple times.
You should change your tranny cooler lines when you do the filter change though. I would do a tranny mount when you do the motor mounts to keep the drivetrain colinear.
I posted all this on 500ecstasy if you want to comb through it. I would maybe suggest that you write a WIKI page for this when you are done for everyones' benifit.
Here are some pics to get you started.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:02 pm
Omegabenz, you're killing me. I there anything that does not need to be replaced?
The cooler lines are coming out at ?220 which I cannot afford right now.
Regarding turning the crank, I'm guessing the gearbox needs to be in neutral for this? Do I need a specific tool to do this (breaker bar? size? socket size?) and will it be obvious what I need to do?
Is it also absolutely necessary for the exhaust to be dropped? M104-AMG posted on ecstasy that:
"If you get a 1/4-drive 5mm hex-head Stahlwillie socket and a short wobble-extension, you won't need to drop the exhaust cross-pipe". I imagined using a small funnel and tubing to prevent oil from getting on the exhaust. A good friend of mine and previous owner (MrMotul) also mentioned that it wasn't necessary though having seen the area I can't see how i'll get my (beautiful) torque wrench in there. Anyone?
GSXR posted: "You need to either disconnect the flexible cooler line up by the radiator, or unscrew the banjo bolt for the metal cooler line on the side of the tranny". This is in order to prevent glug glug and enable smoother draining of oil from torque converter. Just as a heads up, where on the tranny is this. Under the car, feet towards engine, looking up, are we talking north, south, east, west side?
Chappardababbar
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 12:30 pm
OFF TOPIC:
That first photo of your transmission pan has made me realise the importance of taking photos when doing these jobs.
Usually when one buys a car, one looks at the service history and ensure the car has been taken to reputable garages for servicing. This affects the price you are prepared to pay for the car. If you do the work yourself, you cannot prove this when the fact is that there is no way any independent would put as much love into your transmission pan as you have. The picture shows a far higher level of maintenance than you would get had the car been taken to MB.
Similarly, when I did my (super duper) oil change the other day, I cleaned the large plastic cover meticulously and dressed it on the inside for no reason whatsoever other than it made me happy but I didn't take a photo of it.
I think it would be useful to have these on file simply as proof of quality of work when the time comes to sell.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:18 pm
I think he meant the rubber hoses up by the radiator, which are fairly cheap... $20-$30 USD each. If they are dry and not leaking, they are ok for now. If there is any trace of red ATF... it's time to replace them. The metal lines which attach to the engine & tranny don't need replacement unless they are rusted / corroded. Check the rubber clamps which fasten the metal lines to the block, if the rubber is missing, replace the clamps (about $2 USD each).
No, the gearbox can be in P. Socket size 27mm, a normal 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar works fine, with a deep socket (or short extension). Space may be tight around the fan shroud, though.
I've never seen it done, but apparently Neil has done it. I wouldn't do that unless the exhaust bolts were seized up. It will pour ATF all over the exhaust. You don't need to worry too much about torquing the drain plug, those just get set "snug" by hand... don't overtighten them. I only use the torque wrench on the six pan bolts, I go in a criss-cross pattern at 5Nm first, then a second time to the 8Nm spec.
I've actually done it with & without, and most of the time it doesn't seem to make much difference... it still "glug glugs" out anyway. I'd just leave them alone. The banjo bolt is at the transmission end of the metal cooler line which goes to the radiator. It should be shown in the factory procedure. But again, you can skip this step if you want.
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Postby Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:04 pm
Okay thanks. I might as well get the hoses as well since it'll probably be a while until the next oil change so, again, I'll hold off until I figure out the parts required and get them in (next week now).
The metal lines look badly corroded (as well as the diff and suspension) but they'll have to be done another time.
Image
Final question: are these points okay for axle stands at the rear?
Last edited by Chappardababbar on Thu Apr 16, 2009 9:29 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:24 pm
Here's a fuzzy photo showing the two transmission cooler hoses:
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Postby omegabenz on Fri Apr 17, 2009 12:47 am
NO, Everything needs to be replaced...especially anything rubber that is over 10 yrs old IMO.
sounds like they quoted you for the hardlines.
You spent more time doing the thread than actually just doing it.
Yeah you can just let the oil drip over the exhaust, but yes that does create a flammabile situation. You could drape some plastic over the exhaust or a metal trowell or something.
I change my oil HOT, but for a first timer you may want to do it cold so it doesnt burn you.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
omegabenz
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 10:56 am
Okay, I drained the rear diff and moved onto the torque converter.
I've got the 27mm socket but can't figure out where it goes. I thought it would be on the lowest pulley on the driver's side but the only socket on that was a 10mm. When I turned this, only the face of the pulley moved but the belt did not move. I've attached a few photos, it would be helpful if someone could point to the right one.
Also, clockwise or anti-clockwise? If you're under the car facing the torque converter (i.e. facing towards front of the car) the plug is just out of reach to the right of centre.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gsxr on Wed Apr 22, 2009 3:11 pm
It's the largest pulley of them all, at the bottom center. It is not easy to get a socket on the 27mm bolt, or even SEE it, but you can see where it's located in this photo:
Image
As you face the engine (standing in front of the car), it would rotate clockwise, like you were tightening the 27mm bolt.
If the drain plug is THAT close... you can CAREFULLY use a screwdriver to pry against the torque converter housing (via the opening where you see the plug) to rotate the converter just enough, in either direction, to get the plug centered in the opening. DO NOT pry hard enough to dent the converter - this could damage it, and that much force is not needed to move the converter. There are little "bumps" on the converter surface which the screwdriver can grab (barely).
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:12 pm
Thanks Dave, I just figured it out. I had to buy a deeper 27mm socket, as 1/2 inch with short extension was too long (fan was in the way) and no extension meant the surround of the pulley was getting in the way.
For a while I thought I was going to do some damage as I wasn't expecting it to be so difficult to turn the engine. I had to get both hands on the socket - pretty scary when you're under the car!
Oil is completely cold by now but at least I know for next time.
Chappardababbar
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:42 pm
Done, thanks for all your help (so far) guys! See wiki below plus link to transmission mount change.
http://www.500eboard.com/wiki/index.php ... oil_change
Still working on them, need to add more photos details, but feel free to edit.
Chappardababbar
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Postby choe420 on Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:16 pm
Wow - just had the transmission mount changed, as well as the transmission flushed, what a difference! Also did the engine mounts. Together with the distributor caps and rotors and fresh plugs that I replaced over the weekend, it feels like almost a new car!
Thanks again everybody for your suggestions and encouragement!Michel
1994 E420 Smokesilver/parchment
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Postby Chappardababbar on Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:15 pm
No, thank YOU Michel. It's taken 6 weeks for someone to appreciate my wiki.
Chappardababbar
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Postby gerryvz on Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:33 am
I have been consistently telling EVERYONE on this board this same exact thing for the past 5 years now. Few people seem to want to listen to this advice.
If you don't know that your motor and tranny mounts have been changed in the past 25,000 miles (and your car has 75K+ miles on it), it is highly likely that they are OVERDUE, and if you change them, it will indeed feel like a new car.
Thanks for confirming what I've been telling folks for ages. I changed my mounts around 80K miles (nearly 25K miles ago) and indeed it is quite a positive change.
Cheers,
Gerry
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Postby choe420 on Wed Jun 10, 2009 1:51 am
As far as I can tell, the motor mounts and transmission mount were original to the car. I am the 2nd owner, since 12/94 & 62.5K miles, now 115k miles. Not sure when the last transmission fluid change was. I also think one of the distributor caps and rotors may have been original. The other set had 55K miles or so on it as I changed them when I first got the car.
Thanks!
Michel
1994 E420 Smokesilver/parchment
choe420
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Postby Chappardababbar on Wed Jun 10, 2009 2:43 pm
Michel, did you do the motor mounts yourself? I have a brand new set ready and want to do it myself but I think it might be a bit too much for someone of my experience. Plus I don't have access to a lift - only axle stands.
Chappardababbar
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Postby choe420 on Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:29 pm
I am afraid I did not tackle the motor mount, transmission mount, nor the transmission cooler lines myself. My friendly MB dealer here in Charlottesville, VA took care of it. I am able to do some items, but this looked like a much larger job than I'm comforable with.
I think 2phast mentioned that a lift would be really helpful with this job, as the clearance with stands is not too much and the safety aspect is another concern. So...better that a qualified mechanic deal with this than me botching the job. The dealer here is very good and reasonable cost wise compared to the one independent MB shop. I did buy the parts from Rusty @ buymbparts since they allowed me to bring in my own (without mark-up) and saved a bundle on those costs alone. Together with doing my own work on the plugs and both sets of distributor rotors and caps the overall cost was half of the original dealer quote. In this market, I am sure they were happy to get the labor portion, rather than losing the whole job.
Hope this helps!
Michel
1994 E420 Smokesilver/parchment
