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What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

My 1/2" socket game is really weak. Mostly random orphans.

Wiha just fired off an email for clearance pricing on metric and SAE sets.


Only a few remaining. Love me some German-made garage jewlery.

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I always wonder how we arrived at the juxtapositions of tools (inch drives vs metric sockets) and
wheels (inch wheels vs metric tires)?

You have a point there never considered that! :rugby:

What I do find really bizarre is that USA still uses imperial measurements. But then Metric likely feels weird to you lot too!
 
You'd be quite surprised, JC.

I very rarely use Standard (we don't call it Imperial ... some Imperial measurements of the same name are larger than Standard ... think Imperial Pints or Imperial gallons vs. Standard Pints and gallons) tools and haven't for many years. This is because pretty much all cars that have been sold in the US since the 1980s, and most appliances and other stuff, is imported and/or uses Metric hardware. I probably have use for my Standard sockets and wrenches 2-3 times per year. I actually have all of my Standard sockets put away in storage, and only one drawer of Standard combination wrenches. This is for everything I use -- cars, household stuff, appliances, you name it.

Growing up, it was a totally different story. I used my dad's Standard tools for my bicycle, and he used them on the American cars that he had and worked on.

What I don't understand is why the Brits used Metric measurements for most stuff, but continued to use miles for car odometers. Talk about mixing "Imperial" with Metric. I think in Europe and most of the world they call "Standard" ..... "English." Go figure.

My mom just sent me a couple of weeks ago pretty much all the remainder of my Dad's Standard sockets and wrenches. I have my own, so I don't know what I'm going to do with his....though they are very good quality Made in USA 1960s Craftsman stuff, so I won't throw them away or sell them.
 
Drat! Sold out...

:runexe:

They were only showing ~8 available when I ordered just before posting here.

Interested to see if the pieces are branded as Wiha or Heyco. The ratchet is cosmetically different than the Heyco-branded version.

I ordered both just to get the complete socket sets.
 
A little background -

I'm a casual self-taught wrencher. My father wasn't a really handy guy. At all. I think he owned maybe two or three screwdrivers, a hammer, and a corded power drill that he bought from K-mart in the early 1970s. I still remember the price tag on the box of his K-mart drill - I think it was $11.97. One year, my folks decided they needed some shelves in a closet. My folks went to the hardware store, bought some wood, and my mom cut all that plywood with a handsaw and nailed/screwed all those shelves to the wall while my dad watched in amazement. So I'm all self-taught --- I never had the opportunity to learn about taking care of "stuff" from my dad.

When I graduated from undergrad in the mid 90s, I got a job as a faceless-suit, and I bought my first car and a bunch of tools from Sears. Guddumit, I finally had a little income and I was gonna learn that great American pasttime - shade tree mechanics!!!! My understanding at the time was that outside of hideously expensive tool-truck brands, Craftsman was supposed to be a mark of quality at a reasonable price. Indeed I remember most of those tools were made in the USA. One of those tools was a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

As a casual wrencher, I used that torque wrench for straightforward stuff - suspension work - struts, springs, shocks, wheels on/off, brake work, etc. I used that torque wrench maybe 800 torques per year at most. That 1/2" drive Craftsman torque wrench broke in 2012.

I went to Sears in 2012 to exchange the torque wrench, and much to my consternation, Sears wouldn't exchange it. Something about how Craftsman wrenches were covered, but torque wrenches, with their moving parts, were not covered at all. So sorry, would I like to purchase a new one? :fun: :thumbsdown:

By 2012 I was a sleep deprived father of children with no shame, so I caused enough of an embarrassing scene at the hardware section of Sears such that in order to make me go away, they gave me a new 1/2" drive torque wrench, good to 150 lb-ft, retail price $69.99. By this time, with increasing demands on my time from kid-stuff, work travel, and other trappings of mid-aged adulthood, my ATPY (Average Torques Per Year) had declined precipitously - perhaps to 250 torques per year. So of course, that new Craftsman torque wrench broke by 2015. 😡😡😡😡😡😡

The locking collar broke. Since the collar no longer locked, it was difficult to "set" to a torque. The best I could do was spin the setting to a desired torque, try and torque a bolt, and 6 times out of 10 it would torque "CLICK." 4 times out of 10 it would kind of go "CLICKETY-CLICK-CLICK" and skip a beat or two, which meant that somehow the setting wasn't working and I had to rotate the collar again a few mm and try again. Coupled with the fact that the rotating collar never really matched up well with the stamped torque markings on the shiny shaft (and it was tough to read), I hated this Crapsman torque wrench with a vengance.

I finally chucked it. I bought new one from Amazon for $69.95. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BYG66BT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This new torque wrench is beautifully made! Designed in the USA (Georgia specifically), and made in China. The manufacturer even emblazons this on the wrench (as if it were an iphone or something.) It goes to 250 lb-ft, and the adjustment mechanism is super clear and precise. Unlike that stupid stamped-gradations-on-the-shaft thing, there is a rotating drum behind a little window that indicates the setting. The locking mechanism is not a twisty-kind, but a simple thing where you pull the bottom out to unlock, and push it in to lock. The finish is a nice matte finish, and the rubber grip is good. It comes with a certificate that shows its accuracy (serial number is engraved on the unit), which is promised to be within 3%.

I should have chucked that Craftsman years ago.

Here are some pictures comparing it to a 3/8" drive Husky that I bought some years ago.... It is clearly nicer than the Husky. The ratcheting mechanism is also much finer. I just checked the torque on my car's wheels this morning and this wrench was a pleasure to use.

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Great story, Jlaa! Well except the part about Craftsman falling apart. 😡

I have some old Carftsman Micro-tork wenches from the 90's, but even back then they only had a 1-year warranty. These were still made in USA. I use the 1/2" the most (for torquing wheel lug bolts). The locking collar is fiddly and just recently the ratchet mechanism is getting worn. There's a couple NOS ratchet repair kits on eBay, made in China... NLA from Craftsman since it's so old.

Anyway. ~10 years ago I wanted to get my Craftsman torque wrench calibration checked. Not calibrated, just tested. Found out it cost so much, it was cheaper to buy new ones that come with a calibration sheet. (!!??) At the time I went with SK torque wrenches (see below). I don't think there was any COO to be found so I'm not sure where they are made; although at the time SK was a "Made in USA" brand like Craftsman was decades ago. Your new eTORK setup looks like copies of the SK design! Or maybe they came out of the same factory?

More photos:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/SK/

SK_torque_wrenches3.jpg SK_torque_wrenches4.jpg
 
I had a Craftsman torque wrench grenade on me after only a few uses. Got the same BS story when I brought it back to the store. It went in the bin, and I invested in a few CDI wrenches. Fifteen years ago, they were all sub $150. Now it looks like most of the clickers are $200-250.
They're made under the Snap On umbrella, and come with a Snap On calibration certificate.
Only a twelve month warranty, but they're not going to break under normal usage and proper storage.

 
Anyway. ~10 years ago I wanted to get my Craftsman torque wrench calibration checked. Not calibrated, just tested. Found out it cost so much, it was cheaper to buy new ones that come with a calibration sheet. (!!??) At the time I went with SK torque wrenches (see below). I don't think there was any COO to be found so I'm not sure where they are made; although at the time SK was a "Made in USA" brand like Craftsman was decades ago. Your new eTORK setup looks like copies of the SK design! Or maybe they came out of the same factory?

SCORE! Well that was a rathole..... I think eTORK and SK torque wrenches are related. This is what I found:

The guy that owns/runs eTORK in Georgia used to design tools for JS Technology / Danaher Group: About Us – eTORK
JS Technology used to supply torque wrenches to SK Tools: Unknown tool brand. [Archive] - The Garage Journal Board (see posts by 6PTsocket, 2016-12-15)

In fact, if you look at the SK models numbers, @gsxr, from your SK Tools pdf, the model numbers look suspiciously close to the model number engraved on the eTORK 🤔

[500Eboard] IMG_9559.jpg Untitled 2.jpg
 
SWEET! We have the same stuff, lol. I wonder if my SK were also made in China.

🤔
 
I had a Craftsman torque wrench grenade on me after only a few uses. Got the same BS story when I brought it back to the store. It went in the bin, and I invested in a few CDI wrenches. Fifteen years ago, they were all sub $150. Now it looks like most of the clickers are $200-250.
They're made under the Snap On umbrella, and come with a Snap On calibration certificate.
Only a twelve month warranty, but they're not going to break under normal usage and proper storage.


These ultra-premium, ultra-deluxe, mas$$ively well-built torque wrenches are the kind of torque wrenches that are purchased by middle-aged folks who, when they were teenagers, rolled around in shiny new 1990 Honda Civic Sis. :stickpoke:
 
These ultra-premium, ultra-deluxe, mas$$ively well-built torque wrenches are the kind of torque wrenches that are purchased by middle-aged folks who, when they were teenagers, rolled around in shiny new 1990 Honda Civic Sis. :stickpoke:


Buy once, cry once.

The Crapsman wrench was $50-60 at the time, IIRC. I got something just above zero utility out of it.
Paying 3X for a lifetime tool is nothing.
I'm sure that if the Toyota Prius had existed circa mid 1990s, you would have figured out how to acquire one.... :teufel:
 
Buy once, cry once.

The Crapsman wrench was $50-60 at the time, IIRC. I got something just above zero utility out of it.
Paying 3X for a lifetime tool is nothing.
I'm sure that if the Toyota Prius had existed circa mid 1990s, you would have figured out how to acquire one.... :teufel:
Heh. 90s were pre-kids days. No need for practical, reliable, and disposable daily beater car back then. ;-)
 
I have a garage which calls for tandem parking one one side. As well, as the tandem side of my garage is only 385 inches long, there's not a whole lot of space to spare when tandem parking. At most I have 12" between the two cars.

I like using lasers to project a dot on the dashboard that tells me when to stop. Most of the time when you google "garage laser parking guide," you find some cheap plastic contraption for ~$30 with two lasers that is supposed to mount to the ceiling. These contraptions are directed by an onboard motion sensor, and are meant for side by side parking.

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Firstly, I don't trust these motion sensors, and secondly, their side by side configuration makes them useless for a tandem parking scenario. You can buy laser modules from Amazon for dirt cheap, like $4.50 per laser module. As well, you can buy CCTV camera mounts for use with the laser module for ~$3 per mount, and laser mounting heatsinks for $4 per heatsink. Combine everything together with a spare 5v power supply that I'm sure everyone has collected a huge box of (5v is USB voltage) and you can create your own laser parking system tapped off the garage light socket for 100% reliability ...... all for less than the $30 plastic crap. I used spare RCA connector / cords to wire everything up.

I have two lasers per tandem-spot - and old red-plastic one I got years ago as a gift, and my newly-made-one with the Amazon laser modules / black heatsinks. The two lasers per parking spot accommodates different dashboard positions, allowing me to park either car in either tandem spot.


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Can your lasers pulverise intruders, as well?

I don't know how you keep your hoard in that narrow garage, particularly your spare headlight lenses and battery boxes !!
 
Can your lasers pulverise intruders, as well?

I don't know how you keep your hoard in that narrow garage, particularly your spare headlight lenses and battery boxes !!

HAHA. The garage is narrow on the tandem side. In the front of the garage I also have 1080p CCTV covering the garage (top right corner of pic); I need to figure how to activate "high-current-laser-pulverization" laser mode through my CCTV app. :sniper:

My small hoard is actually stored UNDER the garage. I'm on a hillside, so I have a storage room under the garage!

IMG_9595.jpeg IMG_9596.jpeg
 
All this discussion about torque wrenched and crapman quality going down, I had a suspicion about my Lowe’s torque wrench. Purchased for $90 because of lifetime warranty. Looks like now it is only one year warranty. Good thing I have the box.
May go return it and get one of the other brands.
 

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Putting this here for posterity --- 3M VHB tape. 3M VHB tape (also sold as Scotch "Extremely Strong" Interior/Exterior Mounting Tape, as well as 3M Body Molding Tape) is spectacular stuff. As seen in the pdf, industrial uses for VHB include bonding the sides of buses and trailers together without using rivets, bonding structural glazing (windows) onto mid/high-rises, and construction of consumer appliances.

I have used a grey-variant of VHB to mount trim (the black trim under the license plate on the trunk panel of a series1 w124 as well as the under-window-trim on Citroen CX) as well as to mount house numbers on my house and lasers on the ceiling.

A now-retired upholsterer used what I believe is clear, 2-mil-thick 4905 to adhere leather onto plastic trim pieces (seat back release handle). Much as gleitpaste is THE lubricant to have, This is the best sh*t in the world when it comes to adhesives and deserves a place in your garage toolbox.

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Scotch Brand Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8LqtFb0BH7C14

3M Super Strength Molding Tape, 03609, 1/2 in x 5 ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO913C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MOqtFbAVPAQ5F
 

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HAHA. The garage is narrow on the tandem side. In the front of the garage I also have 1080p CCTV covering the garage (top right corner of pic); I need to figure how to activate "high-current-laser-pulverization" laser mode through my CCTV app. :sniper:

My small hoard is actually stored UNDER the garage. I'm on a hillside, so I have a storage room under the garage!

View attachment 111911 View attachment 111912

That's disgustingly well organized. If you ever want to visit Texas. I have a challenge for you.
 
I have a garage which calls for tandem parking one one side. As well, as the tandem side of my garage is only 385 inches long, there's not a whole lot of space to spare when tandem parking. At most I have 12" between the two cars.

I like using lasers to project a dot on the dashboard that tells me when to stop. Most of the time when you google "garage laser parking guide," you find some cheap plastic contraption for ~$30 with two lasers that is supposed to mount to the ceiling. These contraptions are directed by an onboard motion sensor, and are meant for side by side parking.

View attachment 111904
Firstly, I don't trust these motion sensors, and secondly, their side by side configuration makes them useless for a tandem parking scenario. You can buy laser modules from Amazon for dirt cheap, like $4.50 per laser module. As well, you can buy CCTV camera mounts for use with the laser module for ~$3 per mount, and laser mounting heatsinks for $4 per heatsink. Combine everything together with a spare 5v power supply that I'm sure everyone has collected a huge box of (5v is USB voltage) and you can create your own laser parking system tapped off the garage light socket for 100% reliability ...... all for less than the $30 plastic crap. I used spare RCA connector / cords to wire everything up.

I have two lasers per tandem-spot - and old red-plastic one I got years ago as a gift, and my newly-made-one with the Amazon laser modules / black heatsinks. The two lasers per parking spot accommodates different dashboard positions, allowing me to park either car in either tandem spot.


View attachment 111905 View attachment 111906 View attachment 111910 View attachment 111907 View attachment 111908 View attachment 111909

Great use of space! I like it

As for the use of lasers I would prefer to build a moat around my hoard and install the laser beams on sharks

:shark:
 
They were only showing ~8 available when I ordered just before posting here.

Interested to see if the pieces are branded as Wiha or Heyco. The ratchet is cosmetically different than the Heyco-branded version.

I ordered both just to get the complete socket sets.
Everything in the kits was branded Heyco. Sockets appears to be very high quality. Roll marks are large and easy to read

The 1/2" ratchets aren't going to make the cut. Just a bit too slippery for my preference, despite the generous hand swell. They should have molded in some texture or grooves.

The sockets were worth the price of the set and then some, so anything I can get for the dupes and the ratchet handles should reduce my investment toward zero. Garage Journal forum has quite a robust hand tool marketplace, will try my luck there.

20200909_103113.jpg
 
Don’t think anyone mentioned Vise-grip but they are one of my favorite especially the old school US built Petersen.

yesterday, a 36” masonry bit got stuck in the concrete and the rotary hammer gave up (obviously operator error). Clamped the vise-grip to the bit and used crowbar on each side with leverage to push it and get out.
 
Just installed a freaking HEAVY ASS 1/2” hose reel on the ceiling in my cramped garage ..... for water! From Cox Reels. Made in the USA. This thing makes a w126 look flimsy, and makes a w124 look like balsa wood. It is freaking HEAVY and OVERBUILT 10x over.

Now no need to contort oneself around cars and stuff to get to the hose bib and attach a hose ... and risking paint damage.

I did tons of interwebz research. Dewalt? Consumer-grade flexy-crap. Goodyear? Better, but made in China under license from Goodyear 🤬.
Cox Reels? Used in the industry and all of it is like $300-$500+ ..... but I found that the 30’ one (which is all I need) recently had a price drop to only $155. Coxreels P-LP-430 Low Pressure Retractable Air/Water Hose Reel: 1/2" I.D., 30' Hose Capacity, with hose, 300 PSI, Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HB8SR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16pEFb3ANTYV9

So convenient. But freaking PITA to install. You are looking at three 12” sections of ipe 1x4s, screwed into the joists in the ceiling with 3” long screws .... six screws per 12” section of ipe. Then all three sections were tied together with three metal brackets ... 4 lags per bracket. Then the reel was lagged into the ipe with four 3/8” lag screws. I did a couple pullups on the whole assembly and am now calling it good. 👍

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One of my cars is a 1996 model year OBD2 car and I loathe loathe loathe disconnecting the battery because all the memorized settings in the car's ECU is lost whenever the battery is disconnected. Included in these "lost settings" are the OBD2-readiness flags which indicates that the car is ready for emissions testing.

Since this car, the Sport Beetle, is a 1996 model year car, this means that it was made in the first year of OBD2, and the firmware was kinda not very mature. On most normal cars, to set the OBD2-readiness flags, you just drive the car around for a while and then the car is all ready to test.

Note this Piece of Shiiiiteee. There is a VERY SPECIFIC drive-procedure that takes AT LEAST 45 minutes to complete, and you have to do this drive procedure TWICE. And both times it must be from a COLD START. And if you fuck something up in the middle of the drive-procedure ---- then TOO BAD. Take the car home, shut'er down, wait for everything to cool off, and then try again when it can be considered a cold start.

So you can see why I have been very anxious about impending battery replacement. Some folks have pointed me to a "battery memory saver" like so, which feeds a 9v battery through the OBD2 connector's +12v/ground pins to preserve the car's memory while you swap out the main battery. This is pretty cool, and is pretty much what you'd want, except for the 9 volt part (as @gsxr put it)....

1601958996624.png

So there are other ones on the market like this, which is kinda hokey, cuz what ---- I gotta hook up the thing to ANOTHER 12v battery source? With hose giant ass clamps? Like I just have shittons of 12v car batteries just lying around?!?!?!?

1601959100977.png

Then I thought to myself, "SELF, you know you have a shit-ton of 18v Ryobi rechargeable batteries lying around for all your power tools. And they are always charged up. Why don't you use those?" So here it goes.

Parts required:

Solder it up, and now you have tons and tons of 12V power for saving your car's ECU / memory settings! You could make whatever cable harness you want to interface with your car --- OBD2, cigarette lighter, etc.

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Around 2012 when I was looking for Li-ion powered tool, I stumbled upon catalog of KS Tools, from there on most of my tools are from that catalog, every tool I bought has been excellent quality. Unique thing was there was no tool insert but they had good demonstration video back then on you-tube KSTOOLSTOOLCHANNEL

But these days they are rebranding generic Chinese tools, some just have stickers that too not stuck squarely :)

My first battery operated tool: Very handy for stuck bolts and excellent battery life, with limited use have not charged batter in years. Some how KS Tools 3AH battery seem to last better than Bosch 6AH, under similar usage.

KsTool1.jpg

My Favorite: Brilliant switch when you want 1/8 turn, excellent torque, clutch and battery life. I have 2 of these the newer one though is noisy and poor quality.
Kstools2.jpg

Reversible Ratchet: Have all sizes, 1/4" is god send for drive shaft bolts with tight space. Torque delivery is instant and can twist your hand if not held tightly. I also use this like normal ratchet wrench to tighten slight over max torque.
1602386165497.png


Ratchet Pipe Cutter: Easy to use and excellent cut, from exhaust pipes to MTB seat mounts.

Workshop Hand lamp: KS Tools 150.4300 - This one was cool with wireless(induction) charging, like fire torch.
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Excellent Hose Clamps:
1602387627206.png

Some tools were unique and innovative, like below



Torque Wrench
1) Gedore Torcoflex 5 - 25 nm
2) Wera Click-Torque 20 - 100 nm
3) Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F, 70 - 330nm, Love the click on this, sends the click down the elbow saying that's enough :)
 
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Some of those are pretty neat! Shame they don't seem to be easily available in USA. Not cheap either, but look like they're worth it...



Note the pipe cutter max diameter is 67mm, but the 500E muffler pipe is ~70mm.

:sawzall:
 
I wanted to keep a tire inflator in my hobby cars. In particular, one of my cars relies on a spare-donut-tire that you have to inflate on the spot if your main tire goes flat, and that car comes with a cigarette-lighter-driven tire inflator of dubious quality that is known to fail at the most inopportune time. Furthermore, that car (and the spare tire inflator that comes with it) is 24 years old.

I looked at various 12v cigarette-lighter inflators ........ and frankly I'm never really fond of those cigarette lighter power adapters. They always feel like they are going to break. As well, sometimes those stupid cigarette lighter adapters don't fit very well. But then I realized .......

All my hobby cars have the common "Battery Tender SAE Connector" hooked up to the battery -- because I put the battery maintainer on the cars when I park them!

Enter the dual-power-souce tire inflator!


First, the Ryobi 18V Cordless tire inflator. These work well. They usually use Ryobi "18v" Lithium Ion batteries, of which I have many, Actually the Lithium Ion batteries spit out 20V ..... I think "18v" is just some legacy marketing number from back when they used NiCad batteries. These inflators can be disassembled quite easily, and one can lubricate the internals / piston / gears easily as well to promote longevity.

IMG_0822.jpeg

Anyways, this Ryobi cordless tire inflator is on sale at Home Depot for less than 20 clams, sans battery. RYOBI 18-Volt ONE+ Lithium-Ion Cordless High Pressure Inflator with Digital Gauge (Tool-Only)-P737D - The Home Depot

I took apart an old non working NiCad battery that I had and bolted on a 12V -> 19V DC step up converter to it. Only $17. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CK6CF89/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I soldered the outputs of the step up converter to the terminals of the battery, and I soldered the inputs of the step up converter to a power jack that I mounted on the plastic case of the battery.

In retrospect I probably could have used a smaller step-up-converter such that it would fit INSIDE the old plastic battery case, but I digress ......

IMG_0823.jpeg IMG_0824.jpeg IMG_0826.jpeg

Then I used some wire I had lying around and soldered on the power-connector to jack into the converted-battery on one end, and soldered on the SAE-plug that plugs into my cars' 12v SAE-connectored batteries on the other end.

IMG_0827.jpeg IMG_0829.jpeg IMG_0828.jpeg

Now I can keep this cheap inflator in the car ..... and run it off either the car battery if I am on the road, or run it off a Ryobi Lithium Ion battery if I am in the garage. The inflator runs a tad slower off the car battery because my step-up converter spits out 19v, as opposed to the 20v that the ryobi batteries spit out, but that's no biggie.

IMG_0830.jpeg IMG_0831.jpeg

Theoretically I could use my adapter to power things like a trim-nail-gun or a circular saw or an impact driver while on the road ---- not really sure why I would want to do that .... but the possibilities are endless!
 
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This seems like a useful tool for folks, and signed/numbered by @gsxr's Uncle too !!

What would REALLY be valuable was if it was signed by UK **and** the @gsxr.

I bought Kent's over the fender model some time back in a way of thanks and support. His website was the seed that got me started with my resto project that started in 2017.
 
I'd been thinking about springing for the Grypmats for a while. Just watched the video, which I think I saw before in the not too distant past anyway. It's my birthday week, so I just sprung for a set. First looked on Amazon, then decided to look direct on Grypmat.com. Good thing I did. Protip - Black Friday special - the three piece set is on sale for $119, and you get a free two piece green set thrown in, and free shipping. Yeah, I know, $119 is still a lot for some slabs of silicon rubber, but I've reached a stage in life where I can splurge once in a while.
 
Home Despot has a deal on the Milwaukee high-torque 1/2" with WiFi adjustability, plus 5.0 battery, charger, and contractor bag for $299 + tax:


Includes:
  • one M18 FUEL 1/2 in. High Torque Impact wrench with friction ring with ONE-KEY (2863-20),
  • one M18 XC5.0Ah battery (48-11-1850),
  • one M18/M12 charger (48-59-1812),
  • one contractor bag

milwaukee-impact-wrenches-2863-21p-64_1000.jpg milwaukee-impact-wrenches-2863-21p-e1_1000.jpg
 
Home Despot has a deal on the Milwaukee high-torque 1/2" with WiFi adjustability, plus 5.0 battery, charger, and contractor bag for $299 + tax:


Includes:
  • one M18 FUEL 1/2 in. High Torque Impact wrench with friction ring with ONE-KEY (2863-20),
  • one M18 XC5.0Ah battery (48-11-1850),
  • one M18/M12 charger (48-59-1812),
  • one contractor bag

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How would this help you, with the Woods-Fi connectivity? Or did you figure out how to connect a 56k US Robotics modem to this tool?
 
How would this help you, with the Woods-Fi connectivity? Or did you figure out how to connect a 56k US Robotics modem to this tool?
It doesn't help; or at least doesn't seem to offer anything I'd need. I kinda wanted the older, non-WiFi version but there weren't any killer sales on it. I don't think it requires an app, but you can use an app to set custom presets of some sort. Thankfully it should work with a tablet. Think I still have that tOuchPad laying around somewhere.

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Home Despot has a deal on the Milwaukee high-torque 1/2" with WiFi adjustability, plus 5.0 battery, charger, and contractor bag for $299 + tax:


Includes:
  • one M18 FUEL 1/2 in. High Torque Impact wrench with friction ring with ONE-KEY (2863-20),
  • one M18 XC5.0Ah battery (48-11-1850),
  • one M18/M12 charger (48-59-1812),
  • one contractor bag

View attachment 119141 View attachment 119142

I'm waiting for the Makita version to go on sale. I just need the bare tool as I have the batteries. Last year, they were selling for $199, now they're $260. I'll wait
 
One more:

The Home Depot "starter kit" is must be in stock at a local store to allow checkout. If I enter various California zipcodes, it appears to be available. $199 plus tax, your choice of free tool. I don't understand why they won't ship it, if the customer opts to pay shipping. If not available at a local store it will show "This deal has sold out".

Includes:
  • Two M18 XC4.0 batteries (48-11-1840)
  • One M18 and M12 charger (48-59-1812)
  • One contractor bag
  • Choice of free tool

Milwaukee M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion XC Starter Kit with Two 4.0 Ah Batteries, Charger and Contractor Bag-48-59-1840PG - The Home Depot

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FYI...


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Over the months I've already picked up 3 of them (usually around this 19.99 price). Nice lights but only if they would last longer between charges. I gave one to my nephew so may go get another one.
 
Over the months I've already picked up 3 of them (usually around this 19.99 price). Nice lights but only if they would last longer between charges. I gave one to my nephew so may go get another one.
You can buy batteries and an external charger, and swap them out as needed. I think @LWB250 and myself were both shopping for some name-brand batteries, they are surprisingly hard to find. Tons of no-names though.
 
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You can buy batteries and an external charger, and swap them out as needed. I think @LWB250 and myself were both shopping for some name-brand batteries, they are surprisingly hard to find. Tons of no-names though.
I never thought of buying more batteries since I charge and swap out as needed. Seems to be enough for me at this point.
 
The free tool deal is a good one, if you are just getting into the Milwaukee tool system. I already had a 5.0Ah battery, plus an M18+M12 charger, so it wasn't so great of a deal for me. I was going to buy a Milwaukee leaf blower, for $149, and that was on the list of free tools. I considered getting the deal, and then selling someone here the two batteries and charger, if they needed them.

My local Home Depot had the special deal in stock (actually BOTH of the HDs in Annapolis have them).

But, I found a better deal. I got the blower, and I got a 12Ah battery. So that was a big purchase. BUT, HD is having a special .... buy a 12Ah battery, and get an M18 8Ah battery FREE. That's a $200 battery for free.

The leaf blower and the chain saw are the two Milwaukee M18 tools that are the most power-hungry, and now I've got both of them. So I needed the extra power batteries. The 5Ah battery is only good for about 5-10 minutes of chain sawing a moderate sized tree, or about 20-30 mins of pruning branches or trimming branches off of a felled tree trunk. So, the larger batteries will come in very handy. The smaller 5Ah battery will stay on my M18 impact wrench.
 
The free tool deal is a good one, if you are just getting into the Milwaukee tool system. I already had a 5.0Ah battery, plus an M18+M12 charger, so it wasn't so great of a deal for me. I was going to buy a Milwaukee leaf blower, for $149, and that was on the list of free tools. I considered getting the deal, and then selling someone here the two batteries and charger, if they needed them.

My local Home Depot had the special deal in stock (actually BOTH of the HDs in Annapolis have them).

But, I found a better deal. I got the blower, and I got a 12Ah battery. So that was a big purchase. BUT, HD is having a special .... buy a 12Ah battery, and get an M18 8Ah battery FREE. That's a $200 battery for free.

The leaf blower and the chain saw are the two Milwaukee M18 tools that are the most power-hungry, and now I've got both of them. So I needed the extra power batteries. The 5Ah battery is only good for about 5-10 minutes of chain sawing a moderate sized tree, or about 20-30 mins of pruning branches or trimming branches off of a felled tree trunk. So, the larger batteries will come in very handy. The smaller 5Ah battery will stay on my M18 impact wrench.
Thanks for the heads up. I should have paid more attention months back to the like offer(s) you're mentioning. I already got Milwaukee'd out months ago with all I need M12 early model 3/8 & 1/2 brush-less ratchets, M18 1/2 mid torque impact ratchet, xtra batteries, chargers, bag, etc. There's lots of deals out there and learned you need to act quickly before they're soldout both at the store and on-line. My understanding too is that Milwaukee's warranty is good for full 5yrs buying from HD but buying OUTSIDE of HD for example off Ebay you end up getting what time that's left according to mfg date on the unit. I found that out when purchasing my Impact off Ebay. I'm NOT getting the full 5 yrs but only 3.5 yrs. In other words pay attention to the mfg date if NOT buying from HD. Thanks again!
 
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