Engine oil recommendations

[gerryvz]

I offer the following, at the risk of inflaming @DITOG to interject into the discussion:

I can GUARANTEE you that at those prices ......... those Costco motor oils, though billed as "full synthetic," are Mobil-1-style "Group III" (partial synthetic) oils, not Group IV/V "true synthetic" oils like RedLine.

I really detest this false advertising on the part of purveyors of Group III oils, billing them as "full synthetics."

It also slightly annoys me (but it's not hugely deceptively false) that Brad Penn (Penn Grade One) bills its green oil, which many of use use in our M117s, as a "partial synthetic" oil. In reality, it's a highly refined straight dino oil. I wish they'd just be proud of that.

 

[gerryvz]

This is for the @gsxr / @DITOG -- a review of the Amazon motor oil.

 

[gsxr]

I can't bring myself to click on a Scottylink. Maybe if you paid me.

That said, I've heard the Amazon stuff isn't bad, for general street use anyway, at short OCI's. Same as any name-brand bottles at FLAPS.

 

[gerryvz]

I can't bring myself to click on a Scottylink. Maybe if you paid me.

 

[jftu105]

Wandered into a parts store and noticed that they put many quarts of Shell Rotella Synthetic Motor Oil on clearance at $2.45 per quart (original price $9.99). Some are 5W30, some 5W20, and some 0W20. I bought them all, nearly 60 quarts. They would cover one oil change per car for my five cars once a year, using 7 quarts per car.

At first, I hesitated a bit to get 5W20 and 0W20, but then they are approved for trucks and SUVs. I figured they would be fine for my E320.

Did the oil change for my daily driver. The last change was 8 months and 7 thousand miles ago. I did some reading on 0W20 and learned that it is the new fad. Some articles I read claim that 0W20 offers better protection than 5W30. I guess that it is the magic of additives.

I always add a can of MOS2 from Liqui Moly. After I pour it in, there would be a thick layer of MOS2 still inside the can. I keep these MOS2 cans for odd lubrication jobs. Now I rinse the can with the new engine oil to clear out all MOS2. I noticed that 0W20 rinses out MOS2 a lot faster. It is definitely a thinner oil, flowing easily. After pouring 6 quarts, I checked the oil level. To my surprise, the oil on the checking stick was dirty. It seems that 0W20 is a heavier oil, despite at a lower viscosity; as a result, the dirty oil at the bottom floated up. Used my Topsider to suck the top thin oil layer off. After that, the oil is clean. This is new to me.

The engine runs nice. However, it is always the case after oil change.

Any experience of 0W20, anyone?

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

Remember that the manufacturer specifies the appropriate viscosity ranges for a particular engine and ambient temperature range. NOT the oil manufacturer. Shell claiming the oil is "approved for trucks and SUV's" means exactly nothing, unfortunately. Well, it means the oil shouldn't be used in your deep fryer or the french fries might taste funny.

If you are referring to an E320 with M104's... I wouldn't use any of those. Mercedes specifies xW-40 and xW-50 viscosities at temps above freezing. If you have 0W-20 in the M104, keep an eye on the level. I wouldn't be surprised if the engine consumes a bit more than usual.

0W-20 is a new fad for new vehicles, as mfr's are chasing the skyrocketing MPG requirements from various government agencies. One way they can squeeze out a few % more MPG is to use thinner oil. This has NOTHING to do with engine protection or longevity. It's all about the fuel economy. And once out of warranty, they don't care how long the engine lasts.

 

[gerryvz]

^^^
The Gospel according to @DITOG.

I’m a big fan of 20W-50, 15W-50, 15W-40 and 10W-40 in my cars. M117, M104, M119.

NO 5W- or 0W-anything in my Benz engines.

 

[jftu105]

Lower viscosity definitely is for lower power consumption. In high speed operations of spindles, the bearing lubricant has to be thin. The thinnest is the aerostatic bearing by pressurized air to go to over 100,000 rpm or much higher. In oil air lubrication for ball bearings, you only use one drop of oil with a large quantity of air at 25000 rpm or higher. As long as the metal to metal contact is prevented, wear is not an issue. However, heat is an issue. Higher viscosity leads to higher heat.

It seems to me that, the trend of using thinner transmission oil is coming to engine oil. I have been using 10W30 for the last 10-15 years. You cannot find 10W40 in synthetic easily. When I repaired the head gasket of one of my cars, I noted that there has been little or no wear to the cylinder bore after 150,000 miles.

The concern I have for using 0W20 is more about if MOS2 will be washed off after engine is shut off. I want a layer of MOS2 residue on the metal surface when I start the engine for protection.

Will report my experience with this 0W20. Now for this car, it runs on Dexron VI mixed with dual clutch transmission fluid in addition to 0W20. The MAF is from an E320, 2001 with a DIY conversion circuit. Wheels are from S230, 1997, staggered. Other than those, pretty much all stock with quality OEM parts. Really a fun car to drive daily.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

By the way, 0W or 5W are related to the viscosity at low temperature (sub zero F). It is more about 20 vs 30 or 30 vs 40, etc. With synthetic oil with additives, it is no longer strictly the viscosity index in consideration. We all choose the oil we are comfortable with. Over at BZworld, SB* was screaming at people for using synthetic. "Our engine was not designed for synthetic!" scorned by SB*, not knowing synthetic is just the same oil with nearly perfect polymer structure.

We will see if this 0W20 burns me. I have 9 quarts only, Used 7 of them with this oil change. Will mix it with other 5W20.

jftu105

 

[alabbasi]

Too thin for these engines. If your E320 has an M112, you should be using 5w40. 0w20 is cheap because its the oil specified for the Ford Triton engine.

 

[jftu105]

I don't think that 0W20 is cheap or cheap to make. It is at $9.99 per quart. At Costco, I noticed that all Mobil 1 are pretty the same price but their 0W20 is a bit more expensive. I think it has something to do with the additives they put in to get 0W and to run the engine (truck engines) safely at 20. The oil does look thin, flowing very easily.

My first driving on 0W20, the temperature stayed normal and engine was smooth. Have not gone on highway yet.

Read a review that a user sent in his used oil of 0W20 for analysis. All good, according to the user. Shell probably won't run the risk of killing engines if they had not done the same tests to get it approved for truck gas engines.

jftu105

 

[JC220]

Remember that the manufacturer specifies the appropriate viscosity ranges for a particular engine and ambient temperature range. NOT the oil manufacturer. Shell claiming the oil is "approved for trucks and SUV's" means exactly nothing, unfortunately. Well, it means the oil shouldn't be used in your deep fryer or the french fries might taste funny.

If you are referring to an E320 with M104's... I wouldn't use any of those. Mercedes specifies xW-40 and xW-50 viscosities at temps above freezing. If you have 0W-20 in the M104, keep an eye on the level. I wouldn't be surprised if the engine consumes a bit more than usual.

0W-20 is a new fad for new vehicles, as mfr's are chasing the skyrocketing MPG requirements from various government agencies. One way they can squeeze out a few % more MPG is to use thinner oil. This has NOTHING to do with engine protection or longevity. It's all about the fuel economy. And once out of warranty, they don't care how long the engine lasts.

View attachment 108016

Absolutely agree with all points!!

I would never run such a thin modern oil the OP suggests in an m104 or m119 etc. Pardon the pun but this is Shear madness!

Based on our cooler climate I run a 5w40 fully synthetic Oil and that's as thin as I'd go!

0w20 in USA, in a w124?

JC220

 

[JC220]

We will see if this 0W20 burns me. I have 9 quarts only, Used 7 of them with this oil change. Will mix it with other 5W20.

Mix it? So your intention is to blend several weights of thin engine oil together to produce the ultimate m104 brew? Will this be marketed or available in a store near me?

Really interested to see the whole Jftu105 thought process on these thin engine oils you have just discovered on sale and why these are the only and best choice, in your opinion for our 25+ year old engines

Do you only mix 2x ATFs in this w124? @kiev Is definitely very interested in any and all transmission and engine oil additives that can be suggested at all.

JC220

 

[gerryvz]

I am 100% sure you won’t have any problems in the short term. But you will have problems that crop up with chronic use of the thinner oils.

it’s like using low-ZDDP (modern) oils in an M117. You’re not going to see problems crop up immediately. But you will eventually.

I know this for a fact, because it happened to me on my M117. Chevron changed the formulation of their motor oils and dramatically reduced the ZDDP in them, and a number of years afterward (as I used my hoard of oil up) I suddenly had a couple of flat cam lobes due to wear caused by motor oil with not enough friction and impact mitigation additives. And this was changing my oil at 2-3K miles, religiously.

 

[036]

Listen to Gerry.
It is also written in the Bible- older egines= thicker oil.
Can confirm always running 10 or 15W and i drove faaaast.... all the time.

 

[gerryvz]

It is quite easy to find thicker synthetic oils. One word: RedLine.

Checking their web site, I see that their Group IV/V “true” synthetic motor oils come in the following viscosities (partial list):

5W-40
5W-50
10W-30
10W-40
10W-50
10W-60
15W-40
15W-50
20W-50

and lighter weights:
0W-20
0W-30
0W-40
5W-20

 

[JC220]

The most concerning digit here is the 20 bit. That means the engine at operating temperature is running at approx HALF the weight oil as recommended...... not good at all.

 

[JC220]

Read a review that a user sent in his used oil of 0W20 for analysis. All good, according to the user.

This user had a m104? Not sure of the relevance that's all. Many modern vehicles are designed for this grade of oil so hardly surprising that use in the appropriate vehicle would have positive results.

Do you intend to have your own oil analysis done pre this change for ##### of miles then the same ##### of miles on the 0w20 and second analysis done for comparison? Since you have several m104s a decent cross section of comparison is available I'm sure to support your thoughts on this oil.

 

[jftu105]

As Gerry pointed out, the story is not about the viscosity only. In today's liquid engineering, the additives (polymers) are playing an important role. The protection from metal to metal contact also include the accommodation of abrasive particles (oil filter is crucial).

I don't believe in expensive oils. To me, it is MOS2 plus synthetic from any cheap retail places (typically Costco when Mobil 1 on sale) or Walmart ($20-23 for a 5-qt jar). I use any synthetic from any major companies. My engines, when I opened one for head gasket replacement, are just fine. Hfmscan also tells me my engines are working just fine.

However, I wonder if 0W20 is contributing to stinky and smoking cars I sometimes see on road. I hate it when I am behind one of them. I typically check and they are mostly one of the American or Japanese cars, never German cars.

Will I seek out 0W20 from now on? No. I acquired 22 quarts and used 7 so far. Once they are out, I am back to 10W30 or 5W30. I don't expect any problems but will report if I notice any.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

You cannot find 10W40 in synthetic easily.

Most every Wal-Mart carries Mobil-1 10W-40 High Mileage in 5qt jugs for ~$25. This is what I use in my beater E420. All my other cars get Red Line ($$$). There are plenty of 10W-40 synthetics available, but they might not be at the price point you want, or at a local FLAPS/McParts store.

Over at BZworld, SB* was screaming at people for using synthetic. "Our engine was not designed for synthetic!" scorned by SB*, not knowing synthetic is just the same oil with nearly perfect polymer structure.

Aye caramba. We only have 2 decades of data showing synthetics are excellent in W124 engines with zero side effects, except maybe highlighting where you have a seal starting to leak, which isn't the oil's fault.

My first driving on 0W20, the temperature stayed normal and engine was smooth. Have not gone on highway yet.

You won't notice any major difference driving, except perhaps the oil pressure at idle may be lower than normal.

Read a review that a user sent in his used oil of 0W20 for analysis. All good, according to the user. Shell probably won't run the risk of killing engines if they had not done the same tests to get it approved for truck gas engines.

Again... what specific engine? If the engine is designed for 0W-20, everything should be "all good"!! Have you seen reports of the 0W-20 being used in the M104 with analysis?

I don't believe in expensive oils.

I believe in expensive oils. But I got into that mode during long-term ownership of Mercedes turbodiesels, and turbochargers are brutal on oil. I can either run dino and change every 3k (and hope I never have coking issues), or run expensive oil and change at 10-15kmi. The expensive stuff is actually cheaper in this scenario. Same for Mobil-1 Group III vs Red Line Group IV/V in an M104 or M119 at 5k intervals vs 10k. Cost is the same either way, but I save 2 hours of my weekend time by not having to do twice the oil changes.

Put another way, changing expensive oil at 3-5kmi with normal service is wasting money, and expensive. But using all the lifespan on the expensive oil and the cost is often break-even with some time savings. YMMV, etc. Don't get blinded by the $10/qt pricetag up front, you gotta do the cost-benefit analysis.

We will see if this 0W20 burns me. ... Will I seek out 0W20 from now on? No. I acquired 22 quarts and used 7 so far. Once they are out, I am back to 10W30 or 5W30. I don't expect any problems but will report if I notice any.

I'm mostly curious what the consumption rate is. Keep an eye on that.

 

[jftu105]

Today's 0W20 synthetic likely offers same or better protection than a 10W40 made 25 years ago. From that regard, 0W20 should be fine.

I usually buy from Costco when Mobil 1 is on sale. Six quarts for about $25, $10 off from $35. I don't remember seeing Costco carries 10W40 of Mobil 1. I have been using Mobil 1 10W30 + MOS2 for all my cars for over 15 years without any engine issues. I believe in MOS2 than any expensive oil. Why? Solid lubricant makes sense to me.

Interestingly, just like the transmission fluid debate, people could have such strong opinions without much knowledge. For me, I try to read as much as I can and judge the situation based on physics, experiments, and long term data.

Science states that most wear happens during start up when the mechanical elements are starved without lubricant. Extreme operating conditions of course could induce more wear. Regular commutes on highway are pretty much a non-extreme condition. Therefore, I opt for MOS2 to provide the lubrication during start-up because MOS2 clings to the surface. It is almost impossible to drain MOS2 clean from the can. I rinse it with engine oil. With a quart of engine oil, I could rinse it five to six times and there are some residues of MOS2 inside the can. However, I do see 0W20 clean out MOS2 a lot faster. After the third rinse, it is quite clear. This is my concern if MOS2 won't work as well with 0W20 during start-up.

Critical lubrication areas include: 1) piston and cylinder bore surface, 2) crankshaft, 3) cam shaft, 4) cam and lifter/valve, plus other moving parts.

Of these critical areas, I see the wear between the cam and lifter/valve most critical. The viscosity becomes important when the film needs to form in a punching like process. Imagine that you have a layer of oil over a surface. Now, press down a block to squeeze out oil. Oil with a higher viscosity will not be squeezed out as easily so that a layer of oil film can still form to separate the contact surfaces. For other critical areas, a gap is there, forming hydrodynamic layer in crankshaft, camshaft, piston and cylinder bore. Less a concern.

Based on my reading, today's 0W20 must overcome this lower viscosity issue with additives so that an oil film will not be depleted between the compressing surfaces, such as cam and lifter/valve. The magic bullet again is the additives which are polymers to trap oil and not letting it escape as easily even though the viscosity is lower.

The benefit of lower viscosity 0W is not just saving some fuel. The theory is more about protecting the engine during start-up at low temperature or before the engine reaches its operating temperature. The 0W or 5W oil flows easily to reach the entire engine faster so that they are protected. With the additives, I believe 0W20 is heavier despite in a lower viscosity (see my first post).

Overall, my self-educated guess is that I want to see if 0W20 + MOS2 makes sense for M104. Just like using Dexron VI for W124 transmissions, I heard a lot of screaming at me. Almost eight years later, I did not see any problems, only good things, over the dated Dexron III.

On my way to work today, with an outside temperature of 77 F, the engine temp stayed at 90 C or lower (far below 100 C mark, not hitting horizontal either). Nothing unusual.

I will watch the oil consumption. This car has no leak after the head gasket replacement. I typically do not notice much oil consumption of my other cars, mainly leaks.


jftu105

 

[JC220]

 

[gsxr]

Today's 0W20 synthetic likely offers same or better protection than a 10W40 made 25 years ago. From that regard, 0W20 should be fine.

Be careful. This is a fallacy. Today's synthetics likely offers same or better protection than any dino oil made 25 years ago, IF the engine in question does not have specific needs.

Example: M117's need high levels of ZDDP. The majority of modern oils do not have this. Using the logic above, any modern oil should be fine for an M117. But if you used 0W-20, the M117 valvetrain would self-destruct within 50kmi. (Gerry? How long do you think M117 followers would last with 700-800ppm ZDDP?) I found a 0W-20 Rotella Gas Truck UOA here that shows zinc at 750, phosphorus at 650.

A more accurate statement is that today's 10W-40 synthetic likely offers same or better protection than a dino 10W-40 made 25 years ago; again assuming the additive package is adequate for the engine in question. The M104 doesn't need high ZDDP so it's more tolerant of additive variations.

The other fallacy here is that new low-viscosity oil is "better" than new or old higher-viscosity oil. Again - it depends on the engine. Older engines were designed for higher viscosity oil and typically have larger bearing clearances. Using low-viscosity oil in these engines can result in reduced oil pressure and/or increased oil consumption. It's not a one-size-fits-all thing. You can't say that lower viscosity is always better than higher viscosity for every engine.

Click here for a very long, very technical thread.

 

[jftu105]

If you are running special engines, such as M117, by all means, use the specially formulated oil. M104 is fine with almost any quality motor oil. I checked the oil pressure gage during the drive and idling, and it stays way up high, hitting the maximum. In my other cars, the oil pressure needle could be lower during idling. This one has a new pressure gage.

If an engine relies on ZDDP to operate properly, you know that the viscosity alone is not sufficient. This is the whole point I want to make. Don't judge the protection of an oil solely based on the viscosity.

So far, I like how my car drives and how the engine runs with 0W20. I don't see an old non-synthetic 10W40, made 25 years, certified to use for M104, as good as 0W20 today. All those engines of SUVs and trucks are more demanding than M104. If 0W20 is good enough for them, I don't see problems. There will be no metal to metal rubbing with 0W20, I am sure of that.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

For the M104 specifically, yes, it should be pretty tolerant of different oils. But your previous posts did not clarify that you were stating 0W-20 oil was better than 10W-40 just for the M104.

Oil selection should not be made based on the oil you want. It should be based on the manufacturer specifications for the engine in question, then select the oil which fits the manufacturer requirements for the expected ambient temps.

I'm not saying anything bad will happen to your M104. It should be fine. Just be careful that your posts aren't taken as a broad recommendation for any/all/many/most engines.

We can agree to disagree that a modern 0W-20 oil will outperform a modern 10W-40. I've already said that the new SUV's & trucks specifying 0W-20 had the engines specifically designed to use 0W-20 oil. Mercedes W124 engines were not designed for it.

Now please go read that article I linked to. I'll wait a few hours for you to get through the whole thing... I warned you it was lengthy.

 

[JC220]

That is a great link Dave reading it with great interest!

 

[Bogeyman]

Don't ya just love oil threads?

 

[gerryvz]

I'm sure that an M104 (or even an M119) wil run just fine with no issues with sub-1000 ZDDP oils because their valvetrain geometry doesn't require oils with those friction and pressure reducers. But special needs like ZDDP are totally different than viscosity specifications. Viscosity standards don't and haven't changed over time. Additive packages and specifications have.

The engines like the 104, 119 and 117 were indeed designed with heavier oils in mind. That's not to say they won't work and run fine with a lighter oil. Heck, all three of those engines will also run fine with "regular" gasoline, even though MB specifies (and has always specified) that "Super" gasoline (91 octane or greater) be used.

Is running Regular gas going to negatively affect your engine? Probably not ... certainly not immediately. BUT, MB specified the use of "super" fuel for a reason.

Just like they specify thicker oils for these engines.

I believe that an M117 with low ZDDP oil (sub-1000) would maybe go 20K miles max before you'd see some damage to the lobes.

 

[jftu105]

One of my E320's, the prettiest one, was purchased from a person living in the same subdivision. I saw it on craigslist and , after contacting the seller, realized the car was within walking distance from my own house. The seller bought the car from a dealer in about 2006/7 and I bought it from him in 2011. The dealer completed a thorough 70,000 or 80,000 miles maintenance and offered him a great price he could not refuse. Interestingly, he told me that he only used the 87 gasoline. For that 5 to 6 years, the seller loved driving this E320 around. He later acquired a 2003, E320 and a new Lexus; therefore, he was letting it go. He later told me (we ran into each other from time to time) that his 2003 was having issues and he sold it really cheap and bought another Lexus. This E320 stays pretty and still drives like new after 9 years of ownership under me. Of course, I had to do some repair to keep it in top shape. I typically use 89 and go for 93 every other tanks. Based on Hfmscan, the difference of running 87 or 93 is not huge. Perhaps, I see a bit more knock sensor signals and delays of the cam actuator with 87. Apparently, 87 has NOT done any damages to the engine.

For my daily driver, the one with 0W20 now, my last two tanks are 87 and I really don't notice any difference. I will do 93 or add fuel injector cleaner to keep injectors clean (Hopefully so) after a few tanks.

Anyway, I will be a guinea pig again for this 0W20 thing just like I did with Dexron VI. I take educated risks. There are always risks even if you stay with the MB approved list. MB engineers made mistakes too.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I only have M104 and M103; therefore, my statements rarely apply beyond my experience of W124. Logically, when W124 was released in 1986/7 with M103 and later with M104 in 1993/4, synthetic engine oil was still a novelty and rather expensive. Therefore, it is clear that MB certified non-synthetic 10W40 as its motor oil.

As I said before, in engineering education or car company design, rarely a machine is designed for a specific lubricant. It is alway that a machine is designed and then engineers choose a lubricant that will work. If nothing is available for the task, then they formulate something new. They design oil for machine, not the other way around.

There are no design formulas or basic laws to predict for sure an oil will work for a machine. It is always the actual test to see if the oil is up to the task. At the time of M104, MB must have done the bench test with non-synthetic 10W40 and found it good enough after many hours of running. Same thing with the modern cars when they certify a motor oil to use. Due to the cost, the test is never exhaustive. MB also determined that Dexron III was good enough. But it is really not because most drivers did not know they also need to change transmission fluid. Regular Dexron III simply does not last long.

Owners can do their own tests with educated decisions. As I said, if 0W20 can handle today's big SUV and truck engines with much higher power and torque, I don't see it a problem with M104. Will report my experience. Too early to be definite.

Could I be wrong? Of course! Could others be so certain that I am wrong at this stag? I doubt it.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

MB had decades of experience with 10W-40 (and heavier!) dino motor oils to know that they would work fine in any M103, M104, M117, M119, etc.

Remember, viscosity doesn't change. It's a permanent spec. It's the additive packages that change over time -- the API specs that change. What was the spec when the 104/119 were being made ... SG and SH perhaps? Now it's "SN-Plus". A LOT has changed in terms of additive packages over the past 25 years. Personally I wish I could get SJ oil -- I'd be very happy with that.

The fact is, the last few grades of API spec have been called "Energy Conserving" -- which means they have additive packages that are not geared toward older engines. They are geared toward current and recent engines.

The last thing I care about, owning a 12 MPG M104-based G-wagen, a 17 MPG M119-based E500, and a 14 MPG M117-based 560SEC, is "energy conserving" .... if I cared about that, I'd be a good boy like @Jlaa and own a Prius !!

I'm sure the 0W-20 oil will be fine for the next couple of oil changes and your engine will have ZERO damage. If I was in charge, say, of running machinery for my job (such as a large industrial diesel generator or a ship's engine), the last thing I would be doing is experimenting with lubricants. Same applies to my personal life. But that's just me.

 

[JC220]

Made in Germany Oil and Filters only for my cars and they seem to love the stuff

 

[Jlaa]

The last thing I care about, owning a 12 MPG M104-based G-wagen, a 17 MPG M119-based E500, and a 14 MPG M117-based 560SEC, is "energy conserving" .... if I cared about that, I'd be a good boy like @Jlaa and own a Prius !!

Heh. What people don't realize about the Prius is that it's the ultimate city beater car. With a Prius, you can go as fast as you like and cut off whomever you like b/c people generally don't expect a raging lunatic behind the wheel. ;-)

 

[gerryvz]

With a stereo that is worth double what the car is worth.

 

[JC220]

For those (cough cough... not mentioning names) who are running thinner oils in m104 this may be of interest

 

[gsxr]

The first 10 mins are almost a total waste, unless you don't understand viscosity ranges.

Start at 9:44 where the common sense is spelled out.

Thanks for posting, Joe!

 

[JAB12]

Gents, pardon my lack of knowledge, but what oil should I be putting into this M119-6.0L engine when it needs it/ 10W-40 Redline Synthetic? Thank you.

 

[gerryvz]

Since you're in Florida, I'd go 10W-40, 15W-40, or 15W-50. The warmer clime dictates a slightly heavier oil. No 5W or 0W anything in Florida.

In Texas, I used 15W-50 RedLine in my E500, 20W-50 in my 560SEC, and 15W-40 in my G-wagen and predecessor M104 cars.

In Maryland I'm going go to down to 10W-40 in the E500, and 15W-40 in the 560SEC. Will stick with 15W-40 in the G320.

 

[JAB12]

@gerryvz: 15W-40 or 50 it is. Not taking any chances with these new 'eco green etc etc.' lower viscosity products out there. Thank you Sir.

 

[gsxr]

@JAB12, if you plan to use Red Line, I'd call their tech line and chat with them. Their 15W-40 is a CK-4 rated diesel-specific oil, which may not have moly like the 10W-40. 15W-50 shouldn't be needed but probably wouldn't hurt. Their tech guys are really helpful.

 

[JAB12]

@JAB12, if you plan to use Red Line, I'd call their tech line and chat with them. Their 15W-40 is a CK-4 rated diesel-specific oil, which may not have moly like the 10W-40. 15W-50 shouldn't be needed but probably wouldn't hurt. Their tech guys are really helpful.

Thanks, I will call them. If not, it sounds like 10W-40 will work. Car is dry and has no issues with oil consumption, just want to be preventive. It also runs 'cool' between 85-90C all the time despite this sweltering heat here.

 

[LWB250]

I live in a less more temperate part of Florida (not much more) and I've found that 15W-50 works best. I say that as using the lower viscosities has sometimes caused idle pressures on older engines to drop below 1.0 bar during heavy loads in the summer. I don't like that so I go with the 15W-50, in my case, Mobil 1. I also change at 5,000 mile intervals because I can. For nearly all but my S210 daily driver that's a year's worth of driving.

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Just to throw a wrench in the works, I also found that old oil pressure sending units tend to read low, like quarter- to half-bar lower than actual. I suspect some people's concern over abnormally low oil pressure at hot idle, MAY be due to an old sending unit. If it's original - swap it out! OE/Hella/VDO only.

That said, I also do not like seeing oil pressure under 1 bar at hot idle, despite the FSM spec of 0.5 being "acceptable"...

 

[LWB250]

Just to throw a wrench in the works, I also found that old oil pressure sending units tend to read low...
That said, I also do not like seeing oil pressure under 1 bar at hot idle, despite the FSM spec of 0.5 being "acceptable"...

Heh. The minute I see weird oil pressure i replace the sender if I haven't already. I noticed the sender on my 1995 E420 being a little "twitchy" the other day. It could have been a bad lower harness, but I checked insulation when I got the car and everything looked good, so it's getting a new sender.

Dan

 

[JC220]

Sharing a video which is somewhat relevant to this topic

 

[Kyiv]

How irritating... This is a lazy, PG13 product placement content. Having access to Mobil engineers, he only bothered to bring over housewife and uneducated, toothless hick levels of questions. No deeper poking of any kind. Lame. I haven't learned anything new

 

[Jlaa]

How irritating... This is a lazy, PG13 product placement content. Having access to Mobil engineers, he only bothered to bring over housewife and uneducated, toothless hick levels of questions. No deeper poking of any kind. Lame. I haven't learned anything new

Are you acquainted with the testing methodology of the Project Farm guy? After getting put on to PF by @JC220, I've been addicted to this guy's tests:

 

[gsxr]

Are you acquainted with the testing methodology of the Project Farm guy? After getting put on to PF by @JC220, I've been addicted to this guy's tests:

That dude puts good effort into his experiments. But I'm not convinced his testing is fully relevant to real-world engine operating conditions. There's a LOT of factors to consider when engineering an oil base stock & additive package. There are always compromises around cost, performance, longevity, etc.

 

[Jlaa]

That dude puts good effort into his experiments. But I'm not convinced his testing is fully relevant to real-world engine operating conditions. There's a LOT of factors to consider when engineering an oil base stock & additive package. There are always compromises around cost, performance, longevity, etc.

I agree that his methodology is probably a bit simple, but for entertainment value I give him . HISYELLINGALLTHETIME is direct and to the point. No unnecessary youtuber theatrics. As you pointed out, lots of thought put into his experiments. He even has one where he dissed Aerospace 303 . This guy is awesome.

 

[gsxr]

Wait - he dissed 303??? R U kitten me?

EDIT: I see he was testing 303 in an application it is not recommended for (restoring appearance of exterior black plastics). Got it...