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FYI Magazine Article: The Upshift Delay Dilemma

gerryvz

Site Honcho
Staff member
The Upshift Delay Dilemma
by Wayne Colonna
February 1, 2003

Several 1989-1995 Mercedes vehicles using the 722.3 or 722.4 transmission employ a device called the “upshift-delay vacuum actuator.” For this article, I will refer to it as the UDVA.

Figure 1 is a cutaway view of a single-diaphragm design. The throttle cable enters the UDVA at the upper-right corner and is attached to a plastic actuator piston inside the assembly. This actuator piston then operates a linkage mechanism inside the transmission that depresses the throttle valve in proportion to throttle opening (see Figure 2).
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_01.jpg

TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_02.jpg

At the left side of the actuator assembly is a single green diaphragm. This diaphragm is attached to a vacuum-supply line. When vacuum is present, it operates internal levers within the assembly that override the throttle-cable signal by pulling on the plastic actuator piston. Figure 3 illustrates the assembly when vacuum is not present, and Figure 4 illustrates what occurs when vacuum is present.
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_03.jpg

TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_04.jpg

Vacuum is supplied to the assembly to delay upshifts when the vehicle is cold in order to provide more-rapid heating of the catalytic converter. The length of time that the shifts are delayed depends on how long vacuum is supplied to the UDVA. The length of time the vacuum is supplied is dependent on engine temperature, vehicle speed and computer-controlled timing. The range of each input is dependent on the year, model and the type of control system with which the vehicle is equipped.
In general, the various computer systems command vacuum to be supplied to the green diaphragm when the engine-coolant temperature is in the range of 32° F to 104° F or less (0° C to 50° C or less) and the vehicle speed is between 6 and 34 mph (10 km/h to 52 km/h). Once these conditions are met, vacuum may be supplied to the UDVA from as little as 15 seconds to as long as 21⁄2 minutes.

With various vehicles equipped with a Sport/Economy Mode select switch (see Figure 5), a second-design UDVA incorporates an additional diaphragm that is red (see Figure 6). It, too, overrides the throttle cable and delays upshifts when the sport mode is selected. (Other vehicles that have this mode select switch are designed to use the same green single diaphragm instead of having and using the additional red diaphragm.)
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_05.jpg

TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_06.jpg

In some instances, these diaphragms are fitted with color-coded vacuum lines as shown in Figure 7. The pink line goes to the red diaphragm, the green goes to the green diaphragm and the white line is for the vacuum modulator. You must take care to ensure that these vacuum lines are fitted correctly, especially if they are not color coded.

The late-shift problem occurs when constant vacuum is supplied to either one or both of these diaphragms. Vacuum is supplied to these diaphragms through “upshift-delay switch-over valves” that the computer turns on and off via the ground side of the switch.

Figure 8 shows a simple diagram for vehicles using one switch-over valve and one vacuum-hose connection, and Figure 9 shows a simple diagram for vehicles using two switch-over valves. Figure 10 shows a simple diagram for select vehicles with one switch-over valve and a mode select switch.
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_08.jpg

TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_10.jpg

Figure 11 shows a switch-over valve. Usually, this vacuum switch sticking in the open or energized position and causing constant vacuum to be supplied to the UDVA produces the late-shift complaint. One simple check is to warm up the engine and set the mode select switch, if the vehicle has one, in the “E” position. There should be no vacuum supplied to either diaphragm. If there is, the appropriate switch-over valve will need to be investigated.
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_11.jpg

In Figure 12, a Vantage meter in split-screen mode shows system voltage on the power wire and 0 volts on the ground wire. This is the switch in its “on” state. Figure 13 is the switch in its “off” state after the computer has ceased grounding the switch.
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_12.jpg

TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_13.jpg

When the switch is energized as Figure 12 illustrates, a vacuum supply should be sent to the UDVA as indicated by the gauge in Figure 14. When the computer turns the switch off by releasing the ground (refer to Figure 13), vacuum to the UDVA should be blocked, as shown on the gauge in Figure 15. This is the proper operation of both the computer and the switch.
TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_14.jpg

TD200302_TechnicallySpeaking_15.jpg

When you’re checking a vehicle with this late-shift problem, if the computer commands are correct but a constant vacuum is applied to the UDVA, the switch is defective and will need to be replaced. A defective computer keeping the switch grounded is an extremely rare occurrence, and it’s highly unlikely you will encounter such a failure.

You will run into more cases of the ground wire being shorted to ground, keeping the switch energized at all times and resulting in a constant supply of vacuum to the UDVA. Other times you may find a defective mode select switch. These are the most-likely failures after you have eliminated switch problems as the cause.
 
Has anyone ever installed the "Euro" vacuum actuator and connected it to an "E/S" switch on the console? Would be interesting to know if someone has done this.

I use my "E/S" switch (I changed it to "F/S" for fast/slow) to my BergWerks FGS module.

CF68A510-767D-4F0B-911C-71BDC3885126.jpeg 00ED689F-87DE-4481-8BB7-A390B354E272.jpeg 10F55E50-F50E-44F0-93D5-B03DF61B741A.jpeg F70BEB8B-EA41-46C8-903B-10A1F42E727F.jpeg
 
Details at link below. Adding the function gets you a comfort mode, not Sport mode.

 
Details at link below. Adding the function gets you a comfort mode, not Sport mode.

Thank you for doing my searching for me. I didn't think this topic had been covered in the past.
:doh::gsxr2::shocking::whip2:

:mushroom:

200.gif
 
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So this only happens when you turn the car on cold start while it warms up. I thought that switch was present on all W124s. My former C43 had it too. Nice mod @gerryvz for turning it into F/S. I figured E was economy and S was sport. I always left it on sport. Guess after I get the car back from Blue Ridge Spa I should be able to bake endless donuts...
 
The cold-upshift delay is automated, and not switch-selectable, but can be disabled by modifying the EPROM code. This vacuum signal goes to the upper, larger, green plastic chamber on the control pressure cable at the trans.

The E/S switch triggers a separate/second vacuum valve, which signals a separate/second vacuum chamber on the control pressure cable... the lower/smaller red plastic chamber. Most USA cars do not have this unit from the factory.

:3gears:
 
The cold-upshift delay is automated, and not switch-selectable, but can be disabled by modifying the EPROM code. This vacuum signal goes to the upper, larger, green plastic chamber on the control pressure cable at the trans.

The E/S switch triggers a separate/second vacuum valve, which signals a separate/second vacuum chamber on the control pressure cable... the lower/smaller red plastic chamber. Most USA cars do not have this unit from the factory.
The dual-chamber vacuum actuator is detailed in the article I quoted above, and contrasted with the single-chamber "US" actuator.
 
IIRC, only the dual-chamber actuator / cable is available now, and MB specifies a rubber cap to seal off the unused vacuum port on the red plastic section.
 
Satish did this mod on his E5E in Michigan... nice to know what it’s all about... for me it seems like a more easily switchable FGS mod (to @gerryvz ‘s point)... but since my car lives in FL I’ve decided I never want second gear start. Never, especially with the advent of all weather tires. I just don’t see any earthly need for it, 1990s engineering conditions notwithstanding.

maw
 
I connected my FGSSwitch via the E/S button. When in S I get first gear starts. When in E I get the factory E programme, with second gear starts. E mode is a bit of a joke - I find that the consumption is higher in E. I guess because the engine pulls at lower revs when acceleration instead of upshifting, during normal driving with me being gentle on the throttle. But E mode is quite nice in town, letting the engine use the torque instead of shifting gears.
 
I agree. That's what I like so much about the Valve Body way to do this. On gentle throttle is out of first gear so fast it's not really an issue... 1/2 throttle from a start feels natural... 2/3 from a start gets you rubber. The only thing better I can see would be a shiftable transmission, but I'm happy with it the way it is, actually, which is a bit of a statement.

maw
 
... but since my car lives in FL I’ve decided I never want second gear start. Never, especially with the advent of all weather tires. I just don’t see any earthly need for it, 1990s engineering conditions notwithstanding.

maw

I agree with you! I have the first-gear-start-valve-body and never have I said to myself that the car would be nicer, under any circumstances, as a "Three Speed with Underdrive" (Klink phrase).

I agree. That's what I like so much about the Valve Body way to do this. On gentle throttle is out of first gear so fast it's not really an issue... 1/2 throttle from a start feels natural... 2/3 from a start gets you rubber. The only thing better I can see would be a shiftable transmission, but I'm happy with it the way it is, actually, which is a bit of a statement.

maw

More shifting would ruin the character of the car. The car doesn't even have a lockup torque converter --- its not even at 90s-era levels of tech! 🤪 That lack of driveline shock from any kind of shifting / lockup is super old-school smoothness (all torque).
 
I have always preferred the BergWerks FGS module, in terms of flexibility and elegance. Particularly when purchased with the "Sport Mode" which not all of them had.
  1. You can switch the FGS mode "on" or "off"
  2. You can switch the Sport mode "on" or "off" while FGS is "on"
  3. You can easily program the module with a supplied cable with button
I've never minded the second-gear start that is stock on the E500E. I mean, it's also not difficult to shift down to "B" if needed. The 400E valve body solution is permanent (unless removed), and not tune-able.

Maybe I need to look into (yet again) having a circuit board shop reproduce the BW FGS module. I tried to do this when I lived in Texas. If I am successful .... €5.000—
 
For those that don't know, Sport mode on the BW module is a secondary program that will hold 1st gear to whatever speed you set. There is also another feature, I think it's called Convenience (Gerry, do you recall?) that will automatically lock the doors at a set speed that is also programmable. My car has all three features: FGS, Sport, and Convenience.
 
It’s actually super easy (compared to even 10 years ago) to design a board and source it out to a foundry in China now. It’s not even expensive. Most of the time you shouldn’t even have to talk with anyone.
 
It’s actually super easy (compared to even 10 years ago) to design a board and source it out to a foundry in China now. It’s not even expensive. Most of the time you shouldn’t even have to talk with anyone.
You probably don’t even need a custom PCB ..., just a raspberry pi and python,...
 
The only thing better I can see would be a shiftable transmission...
Remember that MB meant for the driver to shift the transmission manually, which is why the shift lever allows you to select each of the 4 gears separately. Grab that lever and row it around, it gives you a lot more flexibility, particularly allowing higher RPM's at lighter throttle, and avoiding nuisance upshifts.

:3gears:
 
You probably don’t even need a custom PCB ..., just a raspberry pi and python,...

Remember that MB meant for the driver to shift the transmission manually, which is why the shift lever allows you to select each of the 4 gears separately. Grab that lever and row it around, it gives you a lot more flexibility, particularly allowing higher RPM's at lighter throttle, and avoiding nuisance upshifts.

:3gears:
But if you do that, it might lead to increased wear, like the front crank or cam seals leaking, or a timing chain rail breaking, or a power steering fluid leak..... :duck:
 
I put this BW system right up there next to Hella Smoked tail lights in a category called "things I'm glad I didn't know about at the time"... because I would have insisted upon them, and still been looking to this day. Good info though.

yes, @gsxr... @Klink got me "slapping that shifter around like a red headed stepchild"... I'm just spoiled with the paddle shifters from more modern adaptations. But the other thing that helps here is unless I’m going over 60mph it stays limited to 3rd gear, which is now 3 gears instead of 2, and holds 1st longer. So my cold start upshift is delayed from 1 to 2, not 2 to 3.

maw
 
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The mechanical restoration of my '90 burgundy 300SL was nearing completion, but one problem remained unresolved. From a full stop, the car was starting in 1st gear when it should be starting in 2nd gear. After replacing everything ancillary to the transmission, it came down to the transmission. I consulted with my friends at Sunvalley Transmissions in California and Eurowa (ZF Transmissions) in Toronto, and they both agreed that it was a 1-2 valve problem in the transmission's Main Control Valve. Following their advice, I pulled the transmission Main Control Valve and discovered the 1-2 valve was stuck from an accumulation of sludge. It was so bad, I decided to replace the Main Control Valve with new one I just happened to have on hand from a previous project! Then I replaced the filter and fluid and, finally, the car ran PERFECTLY! Back in February when I bought the car, I went through my usual fluids and filters changes. The transmission pan showed no metallic particles but did have an accumulation of sludge and I suspected improper transmission service was the problem. Many of the "generic" repair shops treat Mercedes like any other car, draining the pan but failing to drain the torque converter which, I believe, led to the accumulation of sludge in this case. Be careful who you let work on your car.

90_300SL_Transmission_TorqueConverter.jpg
90_300SL_MainControlValve.jpg
 
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The last thing left to sort out besides some rust on my 420SEC 1990 is the functionality of S/E switch. T believe this car has one vacuum hose connecting to upshift delay. Now if the switch provides power in other position to solenoid valve and cold engine upshift delay is present on both switch positions and upshift is delayed while vacuum is applied to upshift delay then vacuum should be present on upshift delay when the solenoid coil is not energized. Have I understood that correctly? I just have started to study this system. Transmission serial number should be 722355 03 348034.
 
I believe the solenoid should be energized and vacuum present at the transmission in "E" position.

The solenoid should not be energized, and no vacuum present at the transmission, in "S" position.
 
I believe the solenoid should be energized and vacuum present at the transmission in "E" position.

The solenoid should not be energized, and no vacuum present at the transmission, in "S" position.

Does it make sense when looking fig 3 and 4 of the original post? Looks like when there is no vacuum throttle valve is limited from moving in open throttle direction compared to situation in fig 4 with vacuum. I may have to open the pan and see how things move with vacuum applied. That will happen in 4 months.
 
That diagram is for USA-spec cars without the E/S program switch. The green vacuum diaphragm is for the cold-upshift delay which heats the catalysts after a cold start.

Non-USA cars with E/S switch have a second vacuum diaphragm which is red, located below the green one. The E/S switch sends vacuum to the red section, not the green.

See photos attached to post #1 at this thread:
 
Thank you for responses Dave. How would the system in fig 10 work? It has both systems and only one vacuum line. I may have to drop the pan and see what happens with the control pressure system while vacuum is applied.
 
Figure 10 is only showing half the system, for the E/S only... not the catalyst-heating portion.

AFAIK it is not possible to have both systems with only a single vacuum line. Is this a Euro-spec car or USA? Figure 6 shows the unit needed for both systems.
 
Euro car. Systems in fig 8 and 10 are same except power feed to solenoid can be interrupted in system 8 by switch over valve relay and computer. In system 10 power feed is interrupted S/E switch and computer. What might control the switch over valve relay?
 
Figure 9 is the diagram that should be used on cars with catalysts (TWC, upshift delay) and E/S switch (mode select).
 
When summer comes I have to count the hoses. The car has cat and that switch. I also notice a delayed upshift when engine is cold. So far I have located one switch over valve related to that system. Thank you for you effort.
 
Since the car in question in a C126, perhaps some of the S-class forum members may be able to assist. I don't know for certain if the 126 has the identical setup as 124.
 

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