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That looks like chemical damage to me. I suspect most of the crap that is sprayed on wheels both as cleaners and as dressings, etc. I’ve seen it on many ball joint boots over the last several decades, but I haven’t paid particular attention to which ones might be more or less affected. Indeed, I have just about never seen ball joints wear out on their own. It always seemed to me that the boots cracked and then subsequent water entry did them in.@Klink, have you ever seen the OE TRW boots crack as shown above?
What dealer did you order through?I ordered a set and they were on order from the fatherland for a month then cancelled. I have not spoken to the dealer but intend to. I’d like to know why.
I missed the last of late-style LCAs (1243303507) from a vendor on the bay. I am going to have to purchase sportsline LCAs, unless someone has new ones for sale. I can't fathom buying TRW etcGerman hieroglyphs
Get the Sportline version if you need LCA's. The ride is a bit firmer, but it will have the top-quality ball joint, which is what the aftermarket LCA's lack.I missed the last of late-style LCAs (1243303507) from a vendor on the bay. I am going to have to purchase sportsline LCAs, unless someone has new ones for sale. I can't fathom buying TRW etc
I'm weeping![]()
The car is at 134,000, the ball joints have some play and I thought it best to change them outright. I'm skeptical about the bushings (removing and replacing).Get the Sportline version if you need LCA's. The ride is a bit firmer, but it will have the top-quality ball joint, which is what the aftermarket LCA's lack.
Remember, if the ball joint boot is intact and there is NO play in the joint, you can use the LCA indefinitely (replacing the rubber bushings as needed, maybe every 200kmi or more if they are not oil-soaked). If the boot is old it can be replaced proactively while adding some grease. I've never actually seen a worn/loose balljoint on the late LCA's even with over 200kmi on them. @Glen, any word if your high-miler has the original LCA's, or if not, when they were replaced?
Are you certain there is play in the ball joint? It's difficult to test with the steering knuckle attached. With the weight of the car on the wheel/tire, you need to pry vertically upward against the LCA outer end. If there is play it will move up & down. It's not easy without a 4-post drive-on lift. Separated from the knuckle you can move it by hand and check for play, there should be zero.The car is at 134,000, the ball joints have some play and I thought it best to change them outright. I'm skeptical about the bushings (removing and replacing).
I noticed the slight play last summer, and was planning on changing the LCAs, but they are now NLA. I called so many dealers and they are NLA so it has to be the sportsline before those become NLA. I'm the only driver, so I'll just get used to it.Are you certain there is play in the ball joint? It's difficult to test with the steering knuckle attached. With the weight of the car on the wheel/tire, you need to pry vertically upward against the LCA outer end. If there is play it will move up & down. It's not easy without a 4-post drive-on lift. Separated from the knuckle you can move it by hand and check for play, there should be zero.
If there really is play at the joint... I'd shell out for new Sportlines. Looks like ~$350/ea from some discount dealers.
I got the car at just under 580,000 and replaced them at 582473 but should have been replaced earlier. The front right one had a nasty squeak. I believe they were original up to that point though.Get the Sportline version if you need LCA's. The ride is a bit firmer, but it will have the top-quality ball joint, which is what the aftermarket LCA's lack.
Remember, if the ball joint boot is intact and there is NO play in the joint, you can use the LCA indefinitely (replacing the rubber bushings as needed, maybe every 200kmi or more if they are not oil-soaked). If the boot is old it can be replaced proactively while adding some grease. I've never actually seen a worn/loose balljoint on the late LCA's even with over 200kmi on them. @Glen, any word if your high-miler has the original LCA's, or if not, when they were replaced?
WOW. So the original LCA's lasted over a half-million miles, possibly without a re-boot and re-grease. VERY impressive.I got the car at just under 580,000 and replaced them at 582473 but should have been replaced earlier. The front right one had a nasty squeak. I believe they were original up to that point though.

Thanks a bunch. It’s impressive that they could last half a million miles. Wow!Hello all. Don't know if this helps. My 300CE-24 Sportline got these new control arms in 2017:
Transverse Control arm (Left): A1243303607
Transverse Control arm (Right): A1243303707
Both are currently listed as available at:
... at about 550€ a piece. They ship worldwide.
However, I have had a couple of NLA responses from them when parts were listed as available.
They ship worldwide so maybe worth a try. No relationship with me aside from as satisfied customer.
RayH
The above post if from March of this year and it did not age well. Both ball joints with 35-40k mi on them have an up/down play of 2-3 mm, despite boots being seemingly intactFor what it's worth, I've had TRWs, which I think we're made in Spain at the time, for about 6 years 30k+ mi. So far so good. Boots look like new
I changed mine at 417k Kms, not miles.half a million miles
| Nov 11, 2021 2:51 PM | [ORDER INQUIRY] - [No Title Provided] - #6251 | 1243303607---3 usa--82 in germany 1243303707-- 7 usa---33 in germany Mike Adams ![]() (956) 721-4144 support@mbpartsource.com |
How could a country, this beautiful, neat, and lively, with a populace not yet stricken with entitlement, produce products of poor quality?Made in Slovenia, though. Almost as bad as Made in Ukraine, eh?



But perhaps not for much longer....invasion coming soon from Russia.How could a country, this beautiful, neat, and lively, with a populace not yet stricken with entitlement, produce products of poor quality?
I can assure you that the workers at a parts plant in Slovenia are trying as hard as did Melania's parents
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Those were actually pictures of SloveniaBut perhaps not for much longer....invasion coming soon from Russia.
And they get Pripiyat+Chernobyl back, too...
Deep State is real and it seems to favor keeping Ukraine from becoming satellite of a Russian Federation. Who's currently the president seems to have a smaller weight in the grand scheme of things. Although, strangely, Democrats take a softer approach towards Russia vs a Putin's agent TrumpI hope they are not counting on the current US administration to help them.
Actually, that isn't Russia's goal, but it's beyond this thread's scopeBoth of these "rogue provinces" of Ukraine and Taiwan will be forcefully "reunited" with their rightful mother countries
Same for me back in 2016. They're doing well 60K Kms later.My Sportline LCA´s 1243303607 & 1243303707 arrived today. One is Made in Slovenia in 2010 and the other one is Made in Germany in 2011.
Oh, and they're made by TRW.Same for me back in 2016. Theyre doing well 60K Kms later.
RayH
... but while searching, there is a EU based seller asking Euro554 for it (compared to MBCC quoting last 01Sept2023 at US$404.
... so much for non-replaceable ball joints.
Hello Dave,The Febi "late" LCA's have had a poor record of longevity for the ball joints. I don't know why exactly, but some have speculated that they have inadequate amounts of grease from the factory. Might be interesting to check how much grease is in your driver side balljoint which has some play, when you remove it.
I think you should be able to remove the good Sportline bushings, if the shop is very careful while extracting them, and be able to re-use them. They are useless in the Febi LCA's with a bad balljoint which can't be repaired, so it's worth a try!
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Hello RayH,
Have they said they won't ship to you? I ask because a number of German suppliers have shipped to me in France, even when their eBay listing said they would not.I've noticed that most sellers at ebay.de don't want to sell to USA and other countries ... hmmm, I wonder why?
The SWAG LCA's are likely from the same factory that makes Febi, TRW, and any other aftermarket late LCA's. Any/all of these are a total gamble as to how long the ball joint will last. AFAIK, none are better than the others, and it's possible they are ALL produced in a single factory. Only the OE/Genuine Mercedes LCA's have the ball joint made by TRW (visibly cast into the bottom of the joint area, see photo in post 30 earlier in this thread).Now with regards to the SWAG brand "late" LCAs', I attached pictures below. The reason I'm not thrilled with them is that obviously they were "reboxed" parts. Dave does the "L" stand for Lemforder??? They arrived in a plastic bags with the sticker labels of SWAG, the arms had "painted" SWAG on them (now this made it obvious about being reboxed by SWAG.keeping my fingers crossed that they might be better than Febi ... but I'll still try sourcing the MB OEs' and the 201 330 01 75 Sportline bushing repair kits (if still available and granted I'm not able to press out my MB OE Sportline bushings from my Febi's. BTW, since I still have a few MB OE ball joint covers, I'm planning to install them on the SWAG for good measure.
What Delphi part / Mercedes part number are you considering? Pretty sure they are in the category of "run away like your hair is on fire" but I'd like to take a peek.Has anyone had any experience with Delphi Suspension parts? They are currently owned by Borg-Warner. Don’t know where the parts are made. They advertise “micro finish” on their ball joints
Im in the same pickle as needing quality parts for my 95 124 wagon …. Woodman
Yep... don't mess with aftermarket late LCA's. There are multiple reports across multiple forums of aftermarket joint failure in a few thousand miles. If you do roll the dice, see post #89 above. Then check the joint pretty often for abnormal wear, at least at every oil change, preferably more often.I should have been more specific. LCA is what I was referring to.
From what I’ve seen posted , there is no good replacement except the NLA MBZ. Just trying to look at other brands that haven’t been discussed and found not acceptable. Seems like one is SOL All the parts discussed have quality issues.
You can't use the "early" LCA's with 294mm brakes unless you grind several mm off the face of the ball joint area for clearance to the rotors. The early LCA's are also NLA from MB and the Lemforders are made in Taiwan, so there's not much to be gained there anyway.My wagon has 294mm rotors and from what gsxr has posted it would seem possible to use the early type and rebuild them.
Why not rebuild your existing late LCA's, unless one or both has a confirmed bad ball joint with excessive wear? If you want to rebuild a spare set, use the photos of new OE late LCA's on this forum (and W124performance) to verify the donor is OE.What should one look for to make sure the donor is OE?
Yes, the OE/Genuine rubber bushings are still available from the dealership (standard bushings only - the stiffer Sportline bushing kits are NLA).@gsxr,
Dave, I remember replacing the rubber bushings for the LCAs on my old 300E. Can the rubber bushings still be bought from MB?
On a late LCA, unfortunately, yes - once worn enough to have excess play, the entire LCA is junk. Fortunately the ball joints have a LONG life span as long as the grease boot is intact and not compromised. I don't know why the late LCA's with welded-on ball joints seem to last substantially longer than the early/replaceable ball joints though.I guess if it’s a bad ball joint you’re SOL.

The Lemforder early LCA's are now made in Taiwan with non-OEM bushings, and I'm not sure I'd use them anymore.
Lemforder generally makes good stuff. Some of their rubber bushings for the 124 are made in Brazil, the rear tie rods are Malaysia. So far, I don't think anyone has reported premature failures of Lemforder parts made outside of Germany.I think Taiwan quality is top notch. Japan level precision in many factories. Lemforder should still be pretty good coming out of Taiwan. Lemforder also manufactures out of Poland.
Meyle is a bigger gamble. Their "better than OEM" claim is marketing BS. I mean, ÜRO makes a similar claim for some of their crap: "...meet or exceed OEM specifications".Meyele HD (as opposed to regular Meyle) should also be good since they are promoting HD as "better than OEM". @gsxr
