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Early Front Control Arms NLA?

Thanks for the photos! Do you mind if I add those to my website?

Remember to install the new joint with the notch in the proper location. The joint has more movement in the X axis than it does in the Y axis (or vice-versa).

:banana1:
 
My spare sportline LCAs arrived today and it's the same as the LCA delivery that @Twilling received the other day: 37-07 is made in Slovenia and 36-07 is made in Germany. Sure enough the one from Slovenia has paint chips and the one made in Germany doesn't 😐

Oh well, beggars can't be choosers, so I guess I should just be glad to have some as spares now
 

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@Klink, have you ever seen the OE TRW boots crack as shown above?
That looks like chemical damage to me. I suspect most of the crap that is sprayed on wheels both as cleaners and as dressings, etc. I’ve seen it on many ball joint boots over the last several decades, but I haven’t paid particular attention to which ones might be more or less affected. Indeed, I have just about never seen ball joints wear out on their own. It always seemed to me that the boots cracked and then subsequent water entry did them in.
 
In this case no chemical was used (unless dealer or MB did), just took it out from hoarding to swap boot on another LCA. This is just a warning for hoarders on possible issues with OE rubber parts.
 
I ordered a set and they were on order from the fatherland for a month then cancelled. I have not spoken to the dealer but intend to. I’d like to know why.
 
I ordered a set and they were on order from the fatherland for a month then cancelled. I have not spoken to the dealer but intend to. I’d like to know why.
What dealer did you order through?
 
I missed the last of late-style LCAs (1243303507) from a vendor on the bay. I am going to have to purchase sportsline LCAs, unless someone has new ones for sale. I can't fathom buying TRW etc
I'm weeping:cry:
Get the Sportline version if you need LCA's. The ride is a bit firmer, but it will have the top-quality ball joint, which is what the aftermarket LCA's lack.

Remember, if the ball joint boot is intact and there is NO play in the joint, you can use the LCA indefinitely (replacing the rubber bushings as needed, maybe every 200kmi or more if they are not oil-soaked). If the boot is old it can be replaced proactively while adding some grease. I've never actually seen a worn/loose balljoint on the late LCA's even with over 200kmi on them. @Glen, any word if your high-miler has the original LCA's, or if not, when they were replaced?
 
Get the Sportline version if you need LCA's. The ride is a bit firmer, but it will have the top-quality ball joint, which is what the aftermarket LCA's lack.

Remember, if the ball joint boot is intact and there is NO play in the joint, you can use the LCA indefinitely (replacing the rubber bushings as needed, maybe every 200kmi or more if they are not oil-soaked). If the boot is old it can be replaced proactively while adding some grease. I've never actually seen a worn/loose balljoint on the late LCA's even with over 200kmi on them. @Glen, any word if your high-miler has the original LCA's, or if not, when they were replaced?
The car is at 134,000, the ball joints have some play and I thought it best to change them outright. I'm skeptical about the bushings (removing and replacing).
So confused 😞
 
The car is at 134,000, the ball joints have some play and I thought it best to change them outright. I'm skeptical about the bushings (removing and replacing).
Are you certain there is play in the ball joint? It's difficult to test with the steering knuckle attached. With the weight of the car on the wheel/tire, you need to pry vertically upward against the LCA outer end. If there is play it will move up & down. It's not easy without a 4-post drive-on lift. Separated from the knuckle you can move it by hand and check for play, there should be zero.

If there really is play at the joint... I'd shell out for new Sportlines. Looks like ~$350/ea from some discount dealers.
 
Are you certain there is play in the ball joint? It's difficult to test with the steering knuckle attached. With the weight of the car on the wheel/tire, you need to pry vertically upward against the LCA outer end. If there is play it will move up & down. It's not easy without a 4-post drive-on lift. Separated from the knuckle you can move it by hand and check for play, there should be zero.

If there really is play at the joint... I'd shell out for new Sportlines. Looks like ~$350/ea from some discount dealers.
I noticed the slight play last summer, and was planning on changing the LCAs, but they are now NLA. I called so many dealers and they are NLA so it has to be the sportsline before those become NLA. I'm the only driver, so I'll just get used to it.
 
Get the Sportline version if you need LCA's. The ride is a bit firmer, but it will have the top-quality ball joint, which is what the aftermarket LCA's lack.

Remember, if the ball joint boot is intact and there is NO play in the joint, you can use the LCA indefinitely (replacing the rubber bushings as needed, maybe every 200kmi or more if they are not oil-soaked). If the boot is old it can be replaced proactively while adding some grease. I've never actually seen a worn/loose balljoint on the late LCA's even with over 200kmi on them. @Glen, any word if your high-miler has the original LCA's, or if not, when they were replaced?
I got the car at just under 580,000 and replaced them at 582473 but should have been replaced earlier. The front right one had a nasty squeak. I believe they were original up to that point though.
 
I got the car at just under 580,000 and replaced them at 582473 but should have been replaced earlier. The front right one had a nasty squeak. I believe they were original up to that point though.
WOW. So the original LCA's lasted over a half-million miles, possibly without a re-boot and re-grease. VERY impressive.

:jono:
 
Hello all. Don't know if this helps. My 300CE-24 Sportline got these new control arms in 2017:

Transverse Control arm (Left): A1243303607
Transverse Control arm (Right): A1243303707

Both are currently listed as available at:
... at about 550€ a piece. They ship worldwide.

However, I have had a couple of NLA responses from them when parts were listed as available.

They ship worldwide so maybe worth a try. No relationship with me aside from as satisfied customer.

RayH
 
Hello all. Don't know if this helps. My 300CE-24 Sportline got these new control arms in 2017:

Transverse Control arm (Left): A1243303607
Transverse Control arm (Right): A1243303707

Both are currently listed as available at:
... at about 550€ a piece. They ship worldwide.

However, I have had a couple of NLA responses from them when parts were listed as available.

They ship worldwide so maybe worth a try. No relationship with me aside from as satisfied customer.

RayH
Thanks a bunch. It’s impressive that they could last half a million miles. Wow!
 
For what it's worth, I've had TRWs, which I think we're made in Spain at the time, for about 6 years 30k+ mi. So far so good. Boots look like new
The above post if from March of this year and it did not age well. Both ball joints with 35-40k mi on them have an up/down play of 2-3 mm, despite boots being seemingly intact 🎄
 
There are, relatively, plenty of sportline LCAs left in the world, as of 11/11/2021. Funny how one side (3707) seems more popular then the other

Nov 11, 2021 2:51 PM[ORDER INQUIRY] - [No Title Provided] - #62511243303607---3 usa--82 in germany
1243303707-- 7 usa---33 in germany
Mike Adams
logo-sm.png
(956) 721-4144
support@mbpartsource.com
 
Made in Slovenia, though. Almost as bad as Made in Ukraine, eh?
How could a country, this beautiful, neat, and lively, with a populace not yet stricken with entitlement, produce products of poor quality?
I can assure you that the workers at a parts plant in Slovenia are trying as hard as did Melania's parents 😉

ljubljana.jpg
363e4d335d442c4ab13bc4816c51eece_XL.jpg
cgds9nvaefojwudsj5ao.jpeg
 
But perhaps not for much longer....invasion coming soon from Russia.
And they get Pripiyat+Chernobyl back, too...
Those were actually pictures of Slovenia 🙂

As to Russian invasion into using - it's in its 8th year. Today's season 7, episode 237, in my very humble estimation, is a lot more about special effects than substance - intimidation

Russia Federation is not just a Kleptocracy, but it is a Kleptocracy to a greater degree than anything else. It's ruled by very sober, sharp, common sensed, and cunning people. It's ALL about cost vs benefit. I don't think the math for a full-scale invasion against Ukrainian military circa 2021(thank you 🇺🇲!) AND other factors is there. That's my "housewife" take on the current "episode"
 
Well, I hope they are not counting on the current US administration to help them. Taiwan, either.

Both of these "rogue provinces" of Ukraine and Taiwan will be forcefully "reunited" with their rightful mother countries in the not-too-distant future, no thanks to the lukewarm-at-best US commitment to their sovereignty.
 
I hope they are not counting on the current US administration to help them.
Deep State is real and it seems to favor keeping Ukraine from becoming satellite of a Russian Federation. Who's currently the president seems to have a smaller weight in the grand scheme of things. Although, strangely, Democrats take a softer approach towards Russia vs a Putin's agent Trump 😏


Both of these "rogue provinces" of Ukraine and Taiwan will be forcefully "reunited" with their rightful mother countries
Actually, that isn't Russia's goal, but it's beyond this thread's scope 😁
 
Hello guys,

I just wanted to update the forum member as to the status of the MB OE Sportline LCAs'. The 124 330 36 07 is still available, however the 124 330 37 07 is NLA. :doh: ... but while searching, there is a EU based seller asking Euro554 for it (compared to MBCC quoting last 01Sept2023 at US$404.

Also, the124 330 09 75 Sportline Bushing Kits are also NLA :pissed:

Any "work arounds" would be highly appreciated. I wanted to stock the MB OE LCAs' for my 129.066

Regards to all
 
Chicky, your 129.066 came with "early" LCA's with replaceable ball joints, but the "late" LCA's allow larger brakes without grinding anything. The early LCA's are also NLA, but you can rebuild your old (early style) with new bushings and new ball joints if desired - assuming you have stock brakes. If you are bale to get the NLA #37 LCA and it is absolutely confirmed to be Genuine Mercedes... €554 (about MSRP) ain't bad for an item that has been NLA for a few years now.

For the Sportline bushing kit - did MB Classic confirm NLA worldwide, zero inventory? If so, inquire about kit 201-330-01-75 which has the same bushings but slightly different hardware. The bushings are the important part!
 
Hello Dave :)

My 129.066 has the Silver Arrow brake upgrades ... that was why I wanted to source the "late style" Sportline LCAs' (since even the 124 330 34 07 and the 124 330 35 07 are NLAs').

MBCC has confirmed that 124 330 09 75 are also NLAs', but I'll email them now to inquire about the availability of the 201 330 01 75 ... hopefully they still are available.

With regards to the "Euro554" ... I just sent them an email verifying the availability and current pricing ... hopefully still available, as I really prefer to "stock up" on the MB OE Sportline LCAs' + the "201 bushings" if still available. Please allow me to share why I'm doing these now ... in 2013, I bought Febi "late style" LCAs, removed the fitted bushings and replaced them with MB OE bushing kits 124 330 09 75 ... with the car being a garage queen and about 3500 kilometers until today (used on concrete or asphalt roads only for weekend runs) ... the driver's side LCA ball joint has "some play" already :pissed: ... so much for non-replaceable ball joints.

I wanted to ask your opinion, if sometime in the very near future, I decide to replace the LCAs' with new MB OE Sportlines, can I "press out" the sportline bushings that I installed on my Febi's previously, granted they are in fine shape?

Best regards
 
The Febi "late" LCA's have had a poor record of longevity for the ball joints. I don't know why exactly, but some have speculated that they have inadequate amounts of grease from the factory. Might be interesting to check how much grease is in your driver side balljoint which has some play, when you remove it.

I think you should be able to remove the good Sportline bushings, if the shop is very careful while extracting them, and be able to re-use them. They are useless in the Febi LCA's with a bad balljoint which can't be repaired, so it's worth a try!

:sawzall:
 
The Febi "late" LCA's have had a poor record of longevity for the ball joints. I don't know why exactly, but some have speculated that they have inadequate amounts of grease from the factory. Might be interesting to check how much grease is in your driver side balljoint which has some play, when you remove it.

I think you should be able to remove the good Sportline bushings, if the shop is very careful while extracting them, and be able to re-use them. They are useless in the Febi LCA's with a bad balljoint which can't be repaired, so it's worth a try!

:sawzall:
Hello Dave,

When my indy mechanic mentioned that my driver's side ball joint had "some play" already ... I told him to remove the damaged ball joint cover, clean and remove the grease ... wipe clean the area + exposed ball joint area then to apply full synthetic high heat grease and then install the new MB OE ball joint covers that I ordered from FCP Euro. then also so the passenger side ball joint even if there were no problems with the cover.

Being the "prepper O/C 🤣🤣🤣" that I am ... I searched locally (Manila) who had stock of the "late" LCAs' ... found one selling SWAG brand (more on this later). since I wasn't happy with them, searched for MB OEs'. Tracked the MB OEs' to MB Classic Center, they quoted me prices for the left and right parts. However, yesterday I requested for confirmation of availability and they replied that 124 330 37 07 was NLA 😢😢

Now with regards to the SWAG brand "late" LCAs', I attached pictures below. The reason I'm not thrilled with them is that obviously they were "reboxed" parts. Dave does the "L" stand for Lemforder??? They arrived in a plastic bags with the sticker labels of SWAG, the arms had "painted" SWAG on them (now this made it obvious about being reboxed by SWAG. 🤞🤞🤞 keeping my fingers crossed that they might be better than Febi ... but I'll still try sourcing the MB OEs' and the 201 330 01 75 Sportline bushing repair kits (if still available and granted I'm not able to press out my MB OE sportline bushings from my Febi's. BTW, since I still have a few MB OE ball joint covers, I'm planning to install them on the SWAG for good measure.

Thank you Dave for the suggestions 👍

Best regards
 

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Hi RayH,

Honestly, I didn't bother to ask them as I also considered shipping charges ... more so when each LCA weighs 5.6kilograms each x 2 pieces ... shipping them might cost more than the parts to Manila Philippines.

Regards
 
Now with regards to the SWAG brand "late" LCAs', I attached pictures below. The reason I'm not thrilled with them is that obviously they were "reboxed" parts. Dave does the "L" stand for Lemforder??? They arrived in a plastic bags with the sticker labels of SWAG, the arms had "painted" SWAG on them (now this made it obvious about being reboxed by SWAG. 🤞🤞🤞 keeping my fingers crossed that they might be better than Febi ... but I'll still try sourcing the MB OEs' and the 201 330 01 75 Sportline bushing repair kits (if still available and granted I'm not able to press out my MB OE Sportline bushings from my Febi's. BTW, since I still have a few MB OE ball joint covers, I'm planning to install them on the SWAG for good measure.
The SWAG LCA's are likely from the same factory that makes Febi, TRW, and any other aftermarket late LCA's. Any/all of these are a total gamble as to how long the ball joint will last. AFAIK, none are better than the others, and it's possible they are ALL produced in a single factory. Only the OE/Genuine Mercedes LCA's have the ball joint made by TRW (visibly cast into the bottom of the joint area, see photo in post 30 earlier in this thread).

If you use SWAG, Febi, or any other aftermarket late LCA... remove the boot and re-grease the new ball joint prior to installation.
 
Hello Dave,

I will follow your advice regarding "If you use SWAG, Febi, or any other aftermarket late LCA... remove the boot and re-grease the new ball joint prior to installation." I will not re-use the ball joint covers that came with the Swag LCAs', instead "I still have a few MB OE ball joint covers, I'm planning to install them on the SWAG for good measure."

Thank you Dave for your suggestions.
 
Has anyone had any experience with Delphi Suspension parts? They are currently owned by Borg-Warner. Don’t know where the parts are made. They advertise “micro finish” on their ball joints
Im in the same pickle as needing quality parts for my 95 124 wagon …. Woodman
 
Has anyone had any experience with Delphi Suspension parts? They are currently owned by Borg-Warner. Don’t know where the parts are made. They advertise “micro finish” on their ball joints
Im in the same pickle as needing quality parts for my 95 124 wagon …. Woodman
What Delphi part / Mercedes part number are you considering? Pretty sure they are in the category of "run away like your hair is on fire" but I'd like to take a peek.
 
I should have been more specific. LCA is what I was referring to.
From what I’ve seen posted , there is no good replacement except the NLA MBZ. Just trying to look at other brands that haven’t been discussed and found not acceptable. Seems like one is SOL All the parts discussed have quality issues.
My wagon has 294mm rotors and from what gsxr has posted it would seem possible to use the early type and rebuild them. What should one look for to make sure the donor is OE?
 
I should have been more specific. LCA is what I was referring to.
From what I’ve seen posted , there is no good replacement except the NLA MBZ. Just trying to look at other brands that haven’t been discussed and found not acceptable. Seems like one is SOL All the parts discussed have quality issues.
Yep... don't mess with aftermarket late LCA's. There are multiple reports across multiple forums of aftermarket joint failure in a few thousand miles. If you do roll the dice, see post #89 above. Then check the joint pretty often for abnormal wear, at least at every oil change, preferably more often.


My wagon has 294mm rotors and from what gsxr has posted it would seem possible to use the early type and rebuild them.
You can't use the "early" LCA's with 294mm brakes unless you grind several mm off the face of the ball joint area for clearance to the rotors. The early LCA's are also NLA from MB and the Lemforders are made in Taiwan, so there's not much to be gained there anyway.


What should one look for to make sure the donor is OE?
Why not rebuild your existing late LCA's, unless one or both has a confirmed bad ball joint with excessive wear? If you want to rebuild a spare set, use the photos of new OE late LCA's on this forum (and W124performance) to verify the donor is OE.
 
@gsxr,
Dave, I remember replacing the rubber bushings for the LCAs on my old 300E. Can the rubber bushings still be bought from MB?

I guess if it’s a bad ball joint you’re SOL.
 
@gsxr,
Dave, I remember replacing the rubber bushings for the LCAs on my old 300E. Can the rubber bushings still be bought from MB?
Yes, the OE/Genuine rubber bushings are still available from the dealership (standard bushings only - the stiffer Sportline bushing kits are NLA).



I guess if it’s a bad ball joint you’re SOL.
On a late LCA, unfortunately, yes - once worn enough to have excess play, the entire LCA is junk. Fortunately the ball joints have a LONG life span as long as the grease boot is intact and not compromised. I don't know why the late LCA's with welded-on ball joints seem to last substantially longer than the early/replaceable ball joints though.

:klink:
 
The Lemforder early LCA's are now made in Taiwan with non-OEM bushings, and I'm not sure I'd use them anymore.

I think Taiwan quality is top notch. Japan level precision in many factories. Lemforder should still be pretty good coming out of Taiwan. Lemforder also manufactures out of Poland.

Meyele HD (as opposed to regular Meyle) should also be good since they are promoting HD as "better than OEM".

@gsxr
 
I think Taiwan quality is top notch. Japan level precision in many factories. Lemforder should still be pretty good coming out of Taiwan. Lemforder also manufactures out of Poland.
Lemforder generally makes good stuff. Some of their rubber bushings for the 124 are made in Brazil, the rear tie rods are Malaysia. So far, I don't think anyone has reported premature failures of Lemforder parts made outside of Germany. 🤞


Meyele HD (as opposed to regular Meyle) should also be good since they are promoting HD as "better than OEM". @gsxr
Meyle is a bigger gamble. Their "better than OEM" claim is marketing BS. I mean, ÜRO makes a similar claim for some of their crap: "...meet or exceed OEM specifications". :rolleyes:

Meyle's non-HD parts should be avoided like they were reboxed ÜRO / APA. Jono has reported the Meyle "HD" strut mounts for 124/201 chassis are good. I don't know about any of their other HD components.

:grouphug:
 
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