I thought that Steve said those wheels were heavy...... I must have misunderstood him.
Steve, I can't explain why you weren't any faster this last time. I should have been faster too. Benzer 1 should have run his best E/Ts to date! Perhaps the barometric pressure was exceedingly low that day like Dave was saying. I need to do the corrections but I'm too tired. I think it's someone else's turn anyways!
It is worth noting and worth repeating that your best E/T of this most recent day/night was when you were running your stock tubes.
The only thing that is really in the way after you remove the headlight panels is the headlight wiper stuff which, to be honest, you should remove too.
Those perforated tubes are letting in more air NOW only because your headlight panels/wiper motors are blocking the flow to your stock tubes. Plus that extra air is HOT air which isn't good, especially when you add in the fact that the IAT is telling the ECU that the incoming air is cooler than what it is really getting now with your hot under hood air getting in through those perforations. The IAt sensor saying the air is cool when it's not is causing the ECU to richen the AFR a little which is fine for performance when you aren't already running an ECU that already gives you an AFR which is already just about perfect, which you indeed already are running cause you already have a 92 ECU. Plus this scenario is also playing out under part throttle conditions too, which is causing you to get slightly poorer fuel economy. If you lose the headlight panels and put the old tubes back in, you'll be getting more flow than you are now with the perforated tubes, plus that air will be cooler, which is yet another power producing benefit.
You've got to remember that I only have a punk ass 4.2 powering my W124, plus I have those really awful 2.24 rear gears and heavy wheels. Yet my car is as quick as yours is. How is this? Why is this? Could it be possible that the way I am doing things (which is also the way that I am trying to get you to do things) might be the better way to do it?
Justin's 500E, which is arguably not in as good shape as your 500E, ran a 13.8 after he finally listened to me and ditched his panels. He since then hasn't bothered to remove them anymore because he has "The Sauce". If you do exactly what Dave and I are telling you to do, the way we are telling you to do it, you'd have at least a 13.8 too and I wouldn't be able to touch you. Hmm..... Come to think of it, go ahead and don't listen to us!




Dave, I can remember when you and I argued on several occasions about engine temps, with you maintaining that there was no gain by running the engine any colder than 80c, do you remember that? I'm glad to see that you have come around!
As far as your "list" goes, you forgot one: The Sammy Hagar "grunt". Did you forget that one? You do it when you first nail the gas at the starting line. It's worth about a tenth.

Regards, Eric
Steve, I can't explain why you weren't any faster this last time. I should have been faster too. Benzer 1 should have run his best E/Ts to date! Perhaps the barometric pressure was exceedingly low that day like Dave was saying. I need to do the corrections but I'm too tired. I think it's someone else's turn anyways!
It is worth noting and worth repeating that your best E/T of this most recent day/night was when you were running your stock tubes.
The only thing that is really in the way after you remove the headlight panels is the headlight wiper stuff which, to be honest, you should remove too.
Those perforated tubes are letting in more air NOW only because your headlight panels/wiper motors are blocking the flow to your stock tubes. Plus that extra air is HOT air which isn't good, especially when you add in the fact that the IAT is telling the ECU that the incoming air is cooler than what it is really getting now with your hot under hood air getting in through those perforations. The IAt sensor saying the air is cool when it's not is causing the ECU to richen the AFR a little which is fine for performance when you aren't already running an ECU that already gives you an AFR which is already just about perfect, which you indeed already are running cause you already have a 92 ECU. Plus this scenario is also playing out under part throttle conditions too, which is causing you to get slightly poorer fuel economy. If you lose the headlight panels and put the old tubes back in, you'll be getting more flow than you are now with the perforated tubes, plus that air will be cooler, which is yet another power producing benefit.
You've got to remember that I only have a punk ass 4.2 powering my W124, plus I have those really awful 2.24 rear gears and heavy wheels. Yet my car is as quick as yours is. How is this? Why is this? Could it be possible that the way I am doing things (which is also the way that I am trying to get you to do things) might be the better way to do it?
Justin's 500E, which is arguably not in as good shape as your 500E, ran a 13.8 after he finally listened to me and ditched his panels. He since then hasn't bothered to remove them anymore because he has "The Sauce". If you do exactly what Dave and I are telling you to do, the way we are telling you to do it, you'd have at least a 13.8 too and I wouldn't be able to touch you. Hmm..... Come to think of it, go ahead and don't listen to us!




Dave, I can remember when you and I argued on several occasions about engine temps, with you maintaining that there was no gain by running the engine any colder than 80c, do you remember that? I'm glad to see that you have come around!
As far as your "list" goes, you forgot one: The Sammy Hagar "grunt". Did you forget that one? You do it when you first nail the gas at the starting line. It's worth about a tenth.

Regards, Eric
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:roll:
:-D 


