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Feind stage I and stage II sway bars

Jackasic

E500E Enthusiast
Member
I am getting ready to put an order in for these, let me know what you want I'll adjust the quantity accordingly.

Shipping is a flat $35 in the lower 48. Overseas ask and I work up a quote.

stock

  • Front: 28mm
  • Rear: 18 mm

Stage I - about 4 weeks


  • 21mm (7/8), rear bar only - $230 (includes new poly bushings) ($265 shipped)
  • works with stock SLS
  • up grade to greaseable bushings - $11 ($276 shipped)

Stage 2 - about 6 weeks


  • 32mm (1 1/4") front - $275 (includes new poly bushings)
  • 23~25?mm (still working on the final size) rear - $245 (includes new poly bushings)



list of interest

Stage I:
elbeik
rol607
glen
Maui
gerryvz
Dbreid
500AMM - 3
Jono
need2speed

Stage II:
Jono - 3
gassers
nbvcxw8000
the Swedes - 6 F 3 R
samiam44 - f&r
 
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btw, put me down for 1 stage 1...I'd like to give it a whirl in the brumos car..:)
 
Brandon, will you be able to ship bars overseas, i.e. to the fellow in Moscow above...?

:watermelon:
 
Thirty stage I are ordered and probably a month out. Should make a decision on the stage IIs this week. I am glad to ship anywhere, Europe seems to be doable via USPS. Setting up a distributor down under so he will be the guy to hit up down there.
 
I've read conflicting information on the effects of installing a larger rear bar in our cars. I'm trying to moderate oversteer that occurs on the Silver State course in the tight off-camber turn into the Narrows where the rear end will slide out! Wider rear tires have proven helpful but I don't welcome the tramline effect they bring everywhere else on the course. AFAIK, standard theory is that a larger rear bar will normally increase oversteer. However, there appears to be an exception with a front-heavy car running low to neutral camber and a soft rear sway bar. In this case, the weight transfer has the effect of rolling the rear tire off its contact patch, reducing traction. So then a larger rear bar should help. Anyone have some experience or insights to share on this?
 
Glen, I'm running -1.0 on all four corners and otherwise the handling is spot-on.

I would try setting the rear to 1.5 to 1.75 negative and see if it feels better to you. With proper toe setting, up to about 2 degrees negative won't hurt tire wear too much.
 
put in an order for 30 stage I bars last week, should see them is 4 weeks. Trying to lock down the stage II bars this week. I'll check on shipping, I have shipped our 126 bars across the pond before.
 
Need2speed...

It sounds like you are trying to correct snap oversteer not oversteer...

What are the toe settings front and back?
What is the ride height of the car?
Spring rates?
Static caster measurement and at full lock?

Camber you should have 1.8-2.0 front 0 toe +.50 for more steering response.
2.0 rear with 0 toe

And also are you using a toe spreader bar when doing alignments.

Because my guess is that the car pushes a lot on the off camber due to lack of front end traction. When the car begins to rotate front grip.. The rear end whips out violently.

A fat bar will cause the rear end to loosen up (more oversteer). But in off camber situations that snap oversteer will be worse.

I would suggest changing alignment settings first and add the fat bar to gain needed car rotation.

Lastly what suspension?

The biggest problem you have is weight transfer..

Get a set of GC coils
I would start with 525 front spring rates and 900 rear spring rates. Adjust the rebound on the front shocks to 50-60% firm and 20% firm in the rear.

The w201 kit will fit the w124 cars.
 
@ 5thscale...are you guys running dual springs up front?? Do the GC CO's offer a beefier/re-enforced strut mount a-la the old RDM Tek bits?

Jono
 
Tell you the truth, the RMD units are not any stronger. They are beefy but it's mostly a chunky housing to keep the bearing intact.

The GC unit is quite solid a much simpler design than the RMD unit. It actually works much better too.

In terms of strut tower strength the factory towers are rather robust but I am sure a good deep pothole will take out the wheel/tire and strut mount. I would be a bit skeptical and use proper judgement when driving on very bumpy road.

I do not run dual springs I have the GC coil kit on my 190e. The coil kit will work good on any w124 since it's essentially the same shocks used just longer springs.

A good alternative would be the YSR kit it's cheap enough and it's a much softer shock than the GC Koni's. The springs that come with the YSR kit is crap so my advice is to buy proper eibach ers, hyperco or swift coils with your desired spring rate.

If and when I find a 500e of my liking the GC kit will be the first addition. But remember the GC kit is a race unit not intended for street use. It's harder and the pillow ball will wear out.

The YSR kit is a street kit that can handle spirited driving, the GC kit is a race kit than goes to the next level of seriousness.
 
Interesting reading! Do you have an idea on any mods/reinforcement of the upper strut mount on the 124 chassis?


Thanks.
 
Coilovers on a 124 or 201 which replace the front coil spring are not a good idea, IMNSHO, for any street-driven car. Even more so on a 124, particulary heavy ones (034/036). And I'd think long and hard before ever using them on a track car either. There are other methods to adjust spring rate and damping rate.

For those acronym-challenged folks who don't live and breathe this stuff:

GC = Ground Control = http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/category.php/CA=289

YSR = Yellow Speed Racing = http://yellow-speed.com/products.php?func=p_detail&p_id=150&pc_parent=1


:grouphug:
 

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Theme died ???? there is news?

Hello Temur,

It is paralell threads going on this topic, and it appears that this thread which actually was intended for this group-buy (see post #1) is not updated anymore.

You better follow the other thread which was the very beginning of the swaybar topic back from 2010: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=538

-a-


To the Admins - what about merging these threads to avoid confusion and collect all info on the topic in one place?
 
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we have the stage ones in stock and are shipping them now. Waiting to see how those do to see if there will be a stage II. I have a minimum run or 30 bars to get them made (for any price people actually want to buy them at).
 
I'm not sure merging the threads would be a good idea as it would not flow very well. How about I just close the other one with a pointer to this one?
 
have to call and ask, expect them any day now.
Brandon, Dana from WaveTrac is trying to get in touch with you... have you heard from him in the past week or two? His emails were getting bounced from your sever.

:(
 
Just found out today my domain name expired on the 15th, doh! should be able to get ahold of him a few.
 
Brandon,
i have emailed several times and posted here as well. An update is not to much to ask for. Your communication is awful.
 
Sorry been out of the office for a few weeks on work. Bolts came in today, going to mail them out tomorrow. Being that they are custom made stainless steel U bolts, the lead time is a little up in the air as they are not off the shelf part.

This is a hobby business, so I don't check the boards all that much. Only came on today because I got a PM. Didn't see any emails from you, I'll have to check my junk box filter.

Brandon
 

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sorry, looks like it got deleted when they merged threads. sales at feindms .com

I'll post prices at the top.
 
Did I miss the boat on these, or are there any left? Nothing on the Feind webpage.

Any reviews on how these are working?
 
did everyone receive their SLS u-bolts I sent out? I received a few emails saying they never got them, just wanted to check.
 
bryan, I need your address in Taiwan, or I can send it to the US one.

If you don't get them in the next day or two, let me know and i'll send them again. Good thing I got extras!
 

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