If the new oil pan OE/Genuine? I assume the copper washer is the correct part number and also new? Drain bolt also new?
And, is the leak only from the drain plug?
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- Thread starter Kridre
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And, is the leak only from the drain plug?
OH! So it's leaking from the primary gasket - understood. I thought it was the drain plug.
Next time, try using Loctite 5900, Right Stuff, or similar to stick a new OE (or OEM Victor-Reinz) gasket to the metal pan. Do NOT use any sealant between the gasket and upper aluminum surface. IIRC, torque spec is 8-9Nm? First torque in a kriss-kross pattern to like 5-6Nm, go over all 20 bolts again, then bump to final torque, and go over all 20 a fourth time. Let it set at least 24 hours before filling with oil. This MAY help... it's worth a try anyway.
I will do exactly what you said, it's not bothering me that much, but it would be nice to finally have an engine that's leak free.
I finally remembered to replace this broken coolant level sensor plug. It explored to pieces when I was trying to remove the wires from it, but this was expected. Now only thing left to do is to install new plug right? No, even here the wires insulation is failing... It's probably because it's sitting close to the coolant reservoir. I can easily say that ever single wire in the engine bay should be checked besides lower, upper engine harness and ETA.
I spliced new wires to the old ones where the insulation was still good, but on one of them I could see that corrosion is happening even there much further in to the insulation.
So from my own experience the additional places to check for the insulation wire failing are the coolant level sensor and ac compressor sensor, clutch plug.
I finally remembered to replace this broken coolant level sensor plug. It explored to pieces when I was trying to remove the wires from it, but this was expected. Now only thing left to do is to install new plug right? No, even here the wires insulation is failing... It's probably because it's sitting close to the coolant reservoir. I can easily say that ever single wire in the engine bay should be checked besides lower, upper engine harness and ETA.
I spliced new wires to the old ones where the insulation was still good, but on one of them I could see that corrosion is happening even there much further in to the insulation.
So from my own experience the additional places to check for the insulation wire failing are the coolant level sensor and ac compressor sensor, clutch plug.
Attachments
I ordered Chinese made chrome trim for the front bumper. I expected nothing, and I was still disappointed, this junk is coming back where it came from. Here is the amazing craftsmanship up close. I will buy brand-new OEM chrome trim in the near future.
One motorized vehicle is almost done, so time to fix another one. Damage report is not looking good. Almost everything needs to be painted, apart from the front fender. A lot of things are bent along with rear wheel. I really don't know how this happened, but it should be repairable. The front cowl needs to be replaced for a brand new one, the rear fender with license plate holder is non-existent, and I have a suspicion that the rear swing arm or rear frame might be bent. I already bought some parts and the goal for now is to make this bike driveable without spending a bag of cash. I will make this thing pretty again next winter, or maybe I will sell it and buy something "slower".
One motorized vehicle is almost done, so time to fix another one. Damage report is not looking good. Almost everything needs to be painted, apart from the front fender. A lot of things are bent along with rear wheel. I really don't know how this happened, but it should be repairable. The front cowl needs to be replaced for a brand new one, the rear fender with license plate holder is non-existent, and I have a suspicion that the rear swing arm or rear frame might be bent. I already bought some parts and the goal for now is to make this bike driveable without spending a bag of cash. I will make this thing pretty again next winter, or maybe I will sell it and buy something "slower".
Why did you install it? It may affect your vision once your on the road driving also I think I’d worry about it cracking from stress.
@TerryA I saw this after the glass was installed. I don't think they would even qualify this window for a replacement. Just FYI the previous brand new one had a wave in the bottom. The one before also had wave somewhere. In all 2 two previous brand new glass the heating also was not working correctly.
I will be making warranty claim next week and see what happens.
I will be making warranty claim next week and see what happens.
@gsxr I don't know when I left for work the windshield was fine. When I came back to install the whiper and assemble everything I saw this... This was my old glass that I replaced 5 years ago. Maybe this happened because the upper trim was reinstalled before the glue fully cured? I really don't know... 
I will try to get the car inspected tomorrow, but I don't think it will pass...
I will try to get the car inspected tomorrow, but I don't think it will pass...
Took the car for a quick spin around the block. Transmission is working perfectly and everything was working fine until I used E/S switch. In E position, transmission won't shift to 4th gear. In S position everything is fine, transmission is a little bit overfilled, but this should not matter. I will recheck the vacuum lines tomorrow.
After that ASR light came on. Checked for codes and I get:
Pin #6:
11 - ABS/ASR hydraulic unit, solenoid valve relay (A7/3k1) - Where is this relay located? I can't find it in the schematics. A7/3 is ASR/ABS pump, but no "k1" to be found there.
17 - Battery voltage too low (we can ignore this)
30 - CAN data bus to EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1), interrupted - This code was coming back always after longer storage of course with ASR light, even before I started all of this work. I was hoping that new NSS would fix this.
Pin #7:
2 -EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1)
14 - ????? I don't see this code in DTC list.
After that ASR light came on. Checked for codes and I get:
Pin #6:
11 - ABS/ASR hydraulic unit, solenoid valve relay (A7/3k1) - Where is this relay located? I can't find it in the schematics. A7/3 is ASR/ABS pump, but no "k1" to be found there.
17 - Battery voltage too low (we can ignore this)
30 - CAN data bus to EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1), interrupted - This code was coming back always after longer storage of course with ASR light, even before I started all of this work. I was hoping that new NSS would fix this.
Pin #7:
2 -EA/CC/ISC control module (N4/1)
14 - ????? I don't see this code in DTC list.
The ABS/ASR pump has a couple of relays on it, but I think you need to remove a plastic cover to find them? Might just be a bad relay?
Pin 6 code 30 is a "phantom" code that almost always appears with either limp mode or some other ASR faults. Ignore this.
Pin 7 code 14 is "Closed throttle position switch (S29/3)" on models with ASR, but may also appear if the throttle linkage/cable is not adjusted properly.
Pin 6 code 30 is a "phantom" code that almost always appears with either limp mode or some other ASR faults. Ignore this.
Pin 7 code 14 is "Closed throttle position switch (S29/3)" on models with ASR, but may also appear if the throttle linkage/cable is not adjusted properly.
Thanks again, found the relay after more searching.
Vacuum cables coming in to the transmission bowden cable are correctly installed. When I apply vacum to E/S switch one, the bowden cable is becoming very loose. I don't think I care right now about this. I will always drive in S position anyway.
I readjusted the throttle cable and we will see if there are any improvements.
Vacuum cables coming in to the transmission bowden cable are correctly installed. When I apply vacum to E/S switch one, the bowden cable is becoming very loose. I don't think I care right now about this. I will always drive in S position anyway.
I readjusted the throttle cable and we will see if there are any improvements.
Hello!
What can I say. ASR light issue is almost resolved, the throttle cable was not adjusted correctly and on top of this the linkage was sticking because of freshly zinc plated parts. I disassembled everything, used fine sand paper to make everything running smoothly and lubricated everything with ATF per FSM. I also had an issue with cruise control not working because of this. I hope everything will be fine now.
I also reduced the transmission modulating pressure, shifts are still a little bit harsh in 1/4throttle, but in upper range of revs everything is butter smooth. I will drive as it is for now. I can't figure out E/S switch, if I use it in the stand still the transmission won't even shift to the first gear, but I don't care. I never use it and it's pretty much pointless, there is no "Economy" with this car's anyways.
The front windshield was replaced two days ago and yesterday the car passed inspection. Inspection guy only did basic stuff like lights, horn etc. When it was the time to check the suspension, he said: "I will go under it to see how nice everything looks, because probably there is nothing to check there. It's like a brand-new car."
So with this I can say the restoration is finished. Everything besides this point is small things, I will PPF the whole front end in the spring and install better speakers in the future as I probably metioned before. I already located a full active bass system from E420 for good price with gray leather door panels that are exactly the same as mine. I will be picking them up in May.
I also reassembled my motorcycle. Everything is working perfectly fine apart from the rear wheel that its bent axialy (0.3mm~11thou) and laterally (20-40mm???~0.8-1.5inches) , but I will replace it with a good used one before driving anywhere. I'm also surprised how good it looks with black tail that I bought used and I will stick with it for now.
Thanks everyone for following along. I will be still posting updates here, but probably not as frequently. There is not much to do by this point. I'm already thinking what to do after work now that this car is done, but I definitely need to take a little break before I even start to think about buying another "project car". I will be searching for something that at least don't require a full body respray. Everything else I can do myself.
The final breakdown of the cost of this restoration is in the spreadsheet linked in the first post. Add a little over $6k in the previous maintenance that is not listed there on top of that.
Picures from the car wash and the garage after drying, weather is terrible right now, and she got dirty almost immediately. I will get some proper pictures of this car after applying creaming coating and when the weather will get a little bit better, and no I will be not installing the 400E badge in the back. I'm going full sleeper look with this car, and even if I wanted to put it back on I don't have it and I will let you guys guess what availability of it looks at the dealer.
This paint is scratching really easily. Nothing like old paint that I needed to use the heaviest cutting compound and pad to do anything, but this is the world we live in... Everything needs to be eco friendly... I hope ceramic coating will help with this a little bit.
Oh and I forgot to add, I filled the warranty claim for the rear glass. I'm now waiting for the response from Pilkington.
What can I say. ASR light issue is almost resolved, the throttle cable was not adjusted correctly and on top of this the linkage was sticking because of freshly zinc plated parts. I disassembled everything, used fine sand paper to make everything running smoothly and lubricated everything with ATF per FSM. I also had an issue with cruise control not working because of this. I hope everything will be fine now.
I also reduced the transmission modulating pressure, shifts are still a little bit harsh in 1/4throttle, but in upper range of revs everything is butter smooth. I will drive as it is for now. I can't figure out E/S switch, if I use it in the stand still the transmission won't even shift to the first gear, but I don't care. I never use it and it's pretty much pointless, there is no "Economy" with this car's anyways.
The front windshield was replaced two days ago and yesterday the car passed inspection. Inspection guy only did basic stuff like lights, horn etc. When it was the time to check the suspension, he said: "I will go under it to see how nice everything looks, because probably there is nothing to check there. It's like a brand-new car."
So with this I can say the restoration is finished. Everything besides this point is small things, I will PPF the whole front end in the spring and install better speakers in the future as I probably metioned before. I already located a full active bass system from E420 for good price with gray leather door panels that are exactly the same as mine. I will be picking them up in May.
I also reassembled my motorcycle. Everything is working perfectly fine apart from the rear wheel that its bent axialy (0.3mm~11thou) and laterally (20-40mm???~0.8-1.5inches) , but I will replace it with a good used one before driving anywhere. I'm also surprised how good it looks with black tail that I bought used and I will stick with it for now.
Thanks everyone for following along. I will be still posting updates here, but probably not as frequently. There is not much to do by this point. I'm already thinking what to do after work now that this car is done, but I definitely need to take a little break before I even start to think about buying another "project car". I will be searching for something that at least don't require a full body respray. Everything else I can do myself.
The final breakdown of the cost of this restoration is in the spreadsheet linked in the first post. Add a little over $6k in the previous maintenance that is not listed there on top of that.
Picures from the car wash and the garage after drying, weather is terrible right now, and she got dirty almost immediately. I will get some proper pictures of this car after applying creaming coating and when the weather will get a little bit better, and no I will be not installing the 400E badge in the back. I'm going full sleeper look with this car, and even if I wanted to put it back on I don't have it and I will let you guys guess what availability of it looks at the dealer.
This paint is scratching really easily. Nothing like old paint that I needed to use the heaviest cutting compound and pad to do anything, but this is the world we live in... Everything needs to be eco friendly... I hope ceramic coating will help with this a little bit.
Oh and I forgot to add, I filled the warranty claim for the rear glass. I'm now waiting for the response from Pilkington.
Hello, quick 
after, 1500km:
Two issues were resolved recently:
-Transmission started to slip going from 3rd to 4th gear, but only once and only when hot after sitting over 1 hour. Setting up the modulation to how it was before solved this problem.
-ACC was not working again. The issue was the brake light switch was not being pressed fully by the brake pedal.
Now the car is flawless apart from the noisy air pump that was repaired by disconnecting the plug going into the magnetic clutch and I also disconnected the transmission warm up switch. I'm averaging the same fuel mileage as before. 17MPG or 14l/100km in mostly city driving, but I will replace the O2 sensor in the future anyway. I should have done this when the exhaust was removed, but I forgot.
After ceramic coating exhaust manifolds, the engine is running much cooler than before. I removed the resistor that forced the electric fans to engage sooner, and temperature is never going over 90. Here are the temperature readings around the exhaust after long highway driving.
I also uploaded 0-200km/h run to YT. Of course the test was performed on german autobhan .
after, 1500km:Two issues were resolved recently:
-Transmission started to slip going from 3rd to 4th gear, but only once and only when hot after sitting over 1 hour. Setting up the modulation to how it was before solved this problem.
-ACC was not working again. The issue was the brake light switch was not being pressed fully by the brake pedal.
Now the car is flawless apart from the noisy air pump that was repaired by disconnecting the plug going into the magnetic clutch and I also disconnected the transmission warm up switch. I'm averaging the same fuel mileage as before. 17MPG or 14l/100km in mostly city driving, but I will replace the O2 sensor in the future anyway. I should have done this when the exhaust was removed, but I forgot.
After ceramic coating exhaust manifolds, the engine is running much cooler than before. I removed the resistor that forced the electric fans to engage sooner, and temperature is never going over 90. Here are the temperature readings around the exhaust after long highway driving.
I also uploaded 0-200km/h run to YT. Of course the test was performed on german autobhan .
Hello everyone!
Long time without any updates so here I go in chronological order.
- There was small fuel leak that I had last month, one of the new aftermarket hoses softened and because of that hose clamps were no longer tight. I simply tightened them and issue was fixed. Thanks E10 fuel I guess.
- I also bought another set of 8-hole 16x7 et46 wheels. They need to be send out to be refurbished. I also grabbed front door cards with active bass speakers pockets and front door and rear deck speakers. I will need to fix the door card first before fitting them to the car, but the rear speakers are already installed and they sound hundred times better compared to the originals. It's really sad that not that many w124 had this option in the EU...
- Last issue that I need to resolve right now is sadly paintwork again. On the roof there are some small cracks that just showed up. I already talked to the guys that painted the car and they agreed to fix it for free. I will see how it goes...
Long time without any updates so here I go in chronological order.
- There was small fuel leak that I had last month, one of the new aftermarket hoses softened and because of that hose clamps were no longer tight. I simply tightened them and issue was fixed. Thanks E10 fuel I guess.
- I also bought another set of 8-hole 16x7 et46 wheels. They need to be send out to be refurbished. I also grabbed front door cards with active bass speakers pockets and front door and rear deck speakers. I will need to fix the door card first before fitting them to the car, but the rear speakers are already installed and they sound hundred times better compared to the originals. It's really sad that not that many w124 had this option in the EU...
- Last issue that I need to resolve right now is sadly paintwork again. On the roof there are some small cracks that just showed up. I already talked to the guys that painted the car and they agreed to fix it for free. I will see how it goes...
Quick update
Now the car's front is protected in PPF. I installed it myself with the help of my friend that is doing this professionally. It turned out great. Small bubbles should disappear over time.
I forgot to mention in the previous post that I had one more thing that broke. When I was driving, I noticed that something wasn't right in the steering wheel. There was a feeling that something was snapping, when I was steering left or right. The same day I discovered what it was. I was thinking that maybe something got loose, or I didn't tighten something properly, but it turned out that the nylon bushing (?) that is circled in red (PN 126-462-00-60) in the diagram snapped in half. To replace it I would need to remove the steering box and I really didn't want to do that right now. My fix was to wrap it in tape and use two zip ties to prevent it from clicking. It's working for now. Of course, this part is NLA, but it should be easy to 3D print.
Now the car's front is protected in PPF. I installed it myself with the help of my friend that is doing this professionally. It turned out great. Small bubbles should disappear over time.
I forgot to mention in the previous post that I had one more thing that broke. When I was driving, I noticed that something wasn't right in the steering wheel. There was a feeling that something was snapping, when I was steering left or right. The same day I discovered what it was. I was thinking that maybe something got loose, or I didn't tighten something properly, but it turned out that the nylon bushing (?) that is circled in red (PN 126-462-00-60) in the diagram snapped in half. To replace it I would need to remove the steering box and I really didn't want to do that right now. My fix was to wrap it in tape and use two zip ties to prevent it from clicking. It's working for now. Of course, this part is NLA, but it should be easy to 3D print.
Hello to everyone!
I just returned from my vacation in the alps. The plan was to go there on a motorcycle, but plans changed. I went there with my 400E, so I can post a short story how it went. For the whole trip, I drove more than 1600miles and fuel mileage was around 22mpg. I think it's the highest I got in a long time.
So here is how the journey went.
The first day was just going near the Slovakian border, where we stopped for the night. We visited Kraków along the way there.
I parked the car in good company there. I think everyone can guess what was hiding under the car cover.
After quick sightseeing, we went straight to our accommodation for the night. The last 1km was a little bit stressful because the road was just some rocks and rather steep downhill ride. Not a good combination while having lowered suspension. The room that we rented for the night was great, and the views were amazing.
The next day was riding straight to the alps in Austria, where we would spend the next 5 days. Views were getting better and better along the way.
On the third day we just ride the cable card to the top of the nearby mountains.
On the fourth day we drove grossglockner hochalpenstrasse. The highest alpine road in Austria. It was a nice 48km drive up and down the mountain. The highest viewing point is located 2571m (8.435 feet) above sea level. There's even a parking spot there so you can drive there.
Another stop was at the grossglockner viewing point. Only, 2369m (7.772 feet) this time. There we could see what was left of the glacier and the Grossglockner mountain, but there was one surprise that I didn't even expect. A car museum made as a celebration for the 50 years of Porsche Turbo!
After staring at the cars for far too long, we went down the hill and took a ride back on the train. No, I didn't leave my car behind. This train will transport you and your car through the long tunnel to the other side of the mountain. I really couldn't miss this experience.
A quick note here. You can drive this mountain road with almost anything. My mind was blown when I saw a group of 10 or more tractors driving there.
Another day we visited Salzburg, where apparently there is still spring and flowers are still blooming. The grass is also greener there.
There was also a Red Bull hangar-7 that we visited, and to our surprise, the entry was free of charge.
When driving back on the highway that day, we saw a big black smoke in the distance that turned out to be burning W211 or W210. I was really hard to tell. Really sad view.
One last trip on this journey was to the Eisriesenwelt. The biggest ice cave in the world. It's 42km (26miles) long. Only the first 1km is open to the visitors, but even this short section is really impressive. Only one picture form the inside because it was dark in there, obviously.
Return trip, we did without stopping for the night. 13h and 1200km (745miles) later we arrived back. Absolutely zero issues with the car for the whole trip. Just stopping for fuel and driving.
My final thoughts on this journey are. First, the alps are beautiful and I highly recommend everyone to visit them especially if you live nerby. Second: People in Austria really freaking love Porsche. I never saw that many of them on the road in my life. Third: I would love to return there, but on a bike as soon as possible. Fourth: Manually selecting gears on mountain roads is almost essential in this car. This explains now why, when I got it 10 years ago, the shift knob was basically thrashed. The first owner lived in Switzerland.
Thanks for reading through all of this, and I hope it was a little bit entertaining.
I just returned from my vacation in the alps. The plan was to go there on a motorcycle, but plans changed. I went there with my 400E, so I can post a short story how it went. For the whole trip, I drove more than 1600miles and fuel mileage was around 22mpg. I think it's the highest I got in a long time.
So here is how the journey went.
The first day was just going near the Slovakian border, where we stopped for the night. We visited Kraków along the way there.
I parked the car in good company there. I think everyone can guess what was hiding under the car cover.
After quick sightseeing, we went straight to our accommodation for the night. The last 1km was a little bit stressful because the road was just some rocks and rather steep downhill ride. Not a good combination while having lowered suspension. The room that we rented for the night was great, and the views were amazing.
The next day was riding straight to the alps in Austria, where we would spend the next 5 days. Views were getting better and better along the way.
On the third day we just ride the cable card to the top of the nearby mountains.
On the fourth day we drove grossglockner hochalpenstrasse. The highest alpine road in Austria. It was a nice 48km drive up and down the mountain. The highest viewing point is located 2571m (8.435 feet) above sea level. There's even a parking spot there so you can drive there.
Another stop was at the grossglockner viewing point. Only, 2369m (7.772 feet) this time. There we could see what was left of the glacier and the Grossglockner mountain, but there was one surprise that I didn't even expect. A car museum made as a celebration for the 50 years of Porsche Turbo!
After staring at the cars for far too long, we went down the hill and took a ride back on the train. No, I didn't leave my car behind. This train will transport you and your car through the long tunnel to the other side of the mountain. I really couldn't miss this experience.
A quick note here. You can drive this mountain road with almost anything. My mind was blown when I saw a group of 10 or more tractors driving there.
Another day we visited Salzburg, where apparently there is still spring and flowers are still blooming. The grass is also greener there.
There was also a Red Bull hangar-7 that we visited, and to our surprise, the entry was free of charge.
When driving back on the highway that day, we saw a big black smoke in the distance that turned out to be burning W211 or W210. I was really hard to tell. Really sad view.
One last trip on this journey was to the Eisriesenwelt. The biggest ice cave in the world. It's 42km (26miles) long. Only the first 1km is open to the visitors, but even this short section is really impressive. Only one picture form the inside because it was dark in there, obviously.
Return trip, we did without stopping for the night. 13h and 1200km (745miles) later we arrived back. Absolutely zero issues with the car for the whole trip. Just stopping for fuel and driving.
My final thoughts on this journey are. First, the alps are beautiful and I highly recommend everyone to visit them especially if you live nerby. Second: People in Austria really freaking love Porsche. I never saw that many of them on the road in my life. Third: I would love to return there, but on a bike as soon as possible. Fourth: Manually selecting gears on mountain roads is almost essential in this car. This explains now why, when I got it 10 years ago, the shift knob was basically thrashed. The first owner lived in Switzerland.
Thanks for reading through all of this, and I hope it was a little bit entertaining.
It was partially made from clay. I think it was made this way to show all the steps they take when designing a car. You can see that some of the clay is refined to the final shape while he rest looks like freshly laid down.
So this happened...
Car was finally getting the roof redone (for free of course). They did everything, washed the car and then the steering lock jammed, and they called me. So steering lock is now useless, tumbler was fine, it was the lock itself that locked up. To clarify, I was the one cuting the lock and not the shop.
I don't know how it happened, I think this is just how it is. Issue is that this lock is NLA (P/N - 124-462-35-30) and I don't feel comfortable putting another 30+years old lock in my car... If someone has this type of steering lock, I would like to buy it.
I was always wondering what will be the first part that is NLA to make this car undrivable, well I finally have my answer.
I hope I can still get a new tumbler at the dealer.
Car was finally getting the roof redone (for free of course). They did everything, washed the car and then the steering lock jammed, and they called me. So steering lock is now useless, tumbler was fine, it was the lock itself that locked up. To clarify, I was the one cuting the lock and not the shop.
I don't know how it happened, I think this is just how it is. Issue is that this lock is NLA (P/N - 124-462-35-30) and I don't feel comfortable putting another 30+years old lock in my car... If someone has this type of steering lock, I would like to buy it.
I was always wondering what will be the first part that is NLA to make this car undrivable, well I finally have my answer.
I hope I can still get a new tumbler at the dealer.
It's just dust from cutting the lock with angle grinder. Lock looked almost brand new inside.
Oh noes. I pinged my dealer to check on availability in USA.
Worst case, you could get a new generic tumbler, and have @bclifton adjust the tumblers to match your existing key... might be someone in Europe capable of doing the same surgery.
I called different dealer and 02-04 is actually NLA. I wanted to order 06-04 and dealer wants, a WHOLE CAR so they can instal the new tumbler because that's the procedure in MB Poland...
Every time I leave this car to be worked by someone else it's coming back with something being broken... Not to mention that I will need to remove the tumbler myself anyway so it can be adjusted to my old key.
Every time I leave this car to be worked by someone else it's coming back with something being broken... Not to mention that I will need to remove the tumbler myself anyway so it can be adjusted to my old key.
Something is fishy here. In USA, there are 6,000+ of the VIN-coded tumbler 126-460-02-04 in stock and ready to ship. Screenshot below from Paragon, from my dealer.
I wonder if you could order the tumbler from the MB Classic Center in California?
I wonder if you could order the tumbler from the MB Classic Center in California?
@Kridre, let me know if I can help. You spent so much time and effort to make this car beautiful, it would be a shame to have this issue put a dent in your ownership experience.
I can buy what you need in the US and then bring with me to Germany in August and ship to Poland from there. Only thing is that I might not get this part without all sorts of documents…..I can inquire at the dealership I used to take my car to.
I can buy what you need in the US and then bring with me to Germany in August and ship to Poland from there. Only thing is that I might not get this part without all sorts of documents…..I can inquire at the dealership I used to take my car to.
@gsxr Europe dealers don't have access to the US warehouse. MB EU and MB US are like completely different companies, that's what they told me.
@TimL I would gladly accept your help. I will write you private message so maybe we can figure something out. I really don't want to disassemble the door and trunk lock to match the new generic steering lock tumbler, also the price for 06-04 tumbler is two times more expensive than for 02-04...
I also removed the steering column to fix the weird clicking feeling that I described in post #221. Here is the culprit, and my temporary fix:
This part is specific for the electric steering column, I think, and it's NLA, but I can always 3D print a new part.
Of course the new U-joint that I bought for the steering column is already trashed; the quality of new parts is astonishing. Thankfully I didn't throw away the old U-jont. I could warranty this one, but it also requires bringing the whole car for warranty. They are also replacing the broken part by themselves and charging extra labor for this. I will not give this car to be worked on by someone else. I will try to find a company that could rebuild it. I'm also looking for company that will rebuild my driveshaft u-joint.
There is also this boot that I would like to replace, because it's cracking and have a small hole.
I already called the dealer, and they told me that it's NLA, but it's showing in the classic center as available. I ordered one from ESC tuning, we will see if they will cancel my order.
Also as added bonus here is what I saw under the roof trim when I removed it:
Now, before installing the roof trim I will use wax in here to prevent something like this from happening again. I don't know who was to blame for this, me becouse I didn't use wax before or paint shop, but the rust it's gone for now at least...
I saw today that engine developed an oil leak from the front camshaft cover on the driver side, or atleast I'm think it's coming from there. Owning old MB is really a never ending story. I replaced the valve covers gaskets a few months ago because I was thinking the leak was coming from them.
@TimL I would gladly accept your help. I will write you private message so maybe we can figure something out. I really don't want to disassemble the door and trunk lock to match the new generic steering lock tumbler, also the price for 06-04 tumbler is two times more expensive than for 02-04...
I also removed the steering column to fix the weird clicking feeling that I described in post #221. Here is the culprit, and my temporary fix:
This part is specific for the electric steering column, I think, and it's NLA, but I can always 3D print a new part.
Of course the new U-joint that I bought for the steering column is already trashed; the quality of new parts is astonishing. Thankfully I didn't throw away the old U-jont. I could warranty this one, but it also requires bringing the whole car for warranty. They are also replacing the broken part by themselves and charging extra labor for this. I will not give this car to be worked on by someone else. I will try to find a company that could rebuild it. I'm also looking for company that will rebuild my driveshaft u-joint.
There is also this boot that I would like to replace, because it's cracking and have a small hole.
I already called the dealer, and they told me that it's NLA, but it's showing in the classic center as available. I ordered one from ESC tuning, we will see if they will cancel my order.
Also as added bonus here is what I saw under the roof trim when I removed it:
Now, before installing the roof trim I will use wax in here to prevent something like this from happening again. I don't know who was to blame for this, me becouse I didn't use wax before or paint shop, but the rust it's gone for now at least...
I saw today that engine developed an oil leak from the front camshaft cover on the driver side, or atleast I'm think it's coming from there. Owning old MB is really a never ending story. I replaced the valve covers gaskets a few months ago because I was thinking the leak was coming from them.
Sadly geting new tumbler from US dealer didn't worked out...
@bclifton For now, I will try to get new tumbler from EU dealer. I think I can find someone locally to rekey the door and trunk locks to match the new tumbler. If this does not work out, I will write to you. Thanks for offering your help.
I installed new used steering lock. Of course before the reinstallation of the lock I removed the tumbler to see the inside of the lock and the tumbler was already broken. So for now I start the car with flat head screwdriver. I have upgraded my car to keyless go system.
New 3D printed part is working as it should.
I was washing my 400E today and this is what I found. Thankfully this is not a 500E, new wheel arch cover is available for 25euro.
@bclifton For now, I will try to get new tumbler from EU dealer. I think I can find someone locally to rekey the door and trunk locks to match the new tumbler. If this does not work out, I will write to you. Thanks for offering your help.
I installed new used steering lock. Of course before the reinstallation of the lock I removed the tumbler to see the inside of the lock and the tumbler was already broken. So for now I start the car with flat head screwdriver. I have upgraded my car to keyless go system.
New 3D printed part is working as it should.
I was washing my 400E today and this is what I found. Thankfully this is not a 500E, new wheel arch cover is available for 25euro.
Happy to help in any way
Just let me know!Here's the
126-460-06-04 workshop key/ignition cylinder I have. Brand new - never been used.This is a spare from when I was ordering a new keyed one for my W126. The parts person I was working with ordered the wrong part number - but because I didn't notice and signed/paid, I just had to eat the cost (~$85 USD). I knew it would come in handy eventually - so I didn't mind.
It's all yours for $50 USD if you're interested. Either as-is (plus shipping cost) OR if you wanted this to be rekeyed to match yours... I would just need your key. I can rekey for an additional $50 USD if you cover shipping (sending your key / paying for return package). I can help w/ ordering postage
@bclifton I will send you PM later today. I will take it. I managed to recover locking pins from the old tumbler so I can just give you the numbers if that's enough.
Getting new key form the dealer is impossible. They told me that they would need 1-2.5h to install new tumbler and the cost for the installation would be $140 per hour... This is absolute ripoff, I told them that the tumbler is removed and they need to just install new one and it's 2-5min job, but they didn't agree.
Getting new key form the dealer is impossible. They told me that they would need 1-2.5h to install new tumbler and the cost for the installation would be $140 per hour... This is absolute ripoff, I told them that the tumbler is removed and they need to just install new one and it's 2-5min job, but they didn't agree.
I'd talk to the service manager and invite him to watch as you remove the tumbler from your car in 2 minutes, then ask why they are charging 1-2 hours.
To be honest I'm to tired of arguing with people, almost everything that I can't do myself on this car is a struggle. I will buy the tumbler form @bclifton and just make new key at the dealer coded to my VIN if they don't have some other stupid rules for this as well. Maybe I need to deliver my car upside down for this?
I also did the inspection of the new used and my old tumbler. Here is what I found. The issue with this tumblers wearing down is happening mostly on the first pin/gate. Here you can see the mark left by it, other pins/gates wear out as well, but not that rapidly. My tumbler was mostly fine and would still work for few more years if not the steering lock that decided to break down.
Pin from new/old tumbler that popably have a lot more miles.
Pin from my old tumbler.
