| 1993 Engine Assembly Mercedes E Class E500E | CHECK TYPE | | X | X60079 | $700 | All Star Auto Recycling USA-CA(Corning) Request_Quote 1-530-824-2880 Request_Insurance_Quote |
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OWNER hsumeet (400E)
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94-99 MERCEDES W140 S420 REAR DIFFERENTIAL DIFF AXLE CARRIER 1293510405 2.82 OEM | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 94-99 MERCEDES W140 S420 REAR DIFFERENTIAL DIFF AXLE CARRIER 1293510405 2.82 OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Numbers indicate that it's from a non-ASR as well. Can't see the ratio number besides in the listing.
With @gsxr’s input I grabbed a 91 2.65 dif from a low mile non-asr 500SL from a local recycler for $100.
All i had to do was change the side seals, reseal the rear seal and change the oil and it’s plug and play.
My retired MB mechanic buddy insisted we change the rear flex disc when installing the differential even though it didn’t look bad.
Regardless, it was the biggest bang for the buck and also the best upgrade I’ve done on my 420. Highly recommended.
All i had to do was change the side seals, reseal the rear seal and change the oil and it’s plug and play.
My retired MB mechanic buddy insisted we change the rear flex disc when installing the differential even though it didn’t look bad.
Regardless, it was the biggest bang for the buck and also the best upgrade I’ve done on my 420. Highly recommended.
Adding that to my search list, thank you! For $100 that was probably a no brainer. Hoping to find a deal like that too
All that torque needs a little more multiplication.
Have you felt any discernable difference in MPG on long highway trips? Honestly not a major concern with this car the way I drive but with the prolonged higher revs I'll still feel bad for the engine.
Also are you using anything to correct the speedo?
That looks promising. Get the VIN of the donor car and a photo of the engine serial.
Wrong diff... won't work. It's from a later S420 and has no hole at the pinion for your ABS sensor. Ad says donor is a 1995 S420, VIN WDBGA43E4SA242098, and the EPC says only up to chassis A212244 works, without code 867 (MODEL SERIES 140 MODIFICATION PACKAGE 06/94). This is why you always need to confirm with photos. I think in general you need a 92-94 only, and most 1995 won't work.94-99 MERCEDES W140 S420 REAR DIFFERENTIAL DIFF AXLE CARRIER 1293510405 2.82 OEM | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 94-99 MERCEDES W140 S420 REAR DIFFERENTIAL DIFF AXLE CARRIER 1293510405 2.82 OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
Numbers indicate that it's from a non-ASR as well. Can't see the ratio number besides in the listing.
Adding that to my search list, thank you! For $100 that was probably a no brainer. Hoping to find a deal like that too
While I was tempted to go with a 2.82 the E420 came with a 2.65 in Europe so I decided to go with that.
I’m still waiting on the Yelo box to arrive from Australia to correct the speedo and as such I can’t honestly say the exact mpg difference but I feel like it’s 1-2 mpg less. Not sure if I can blame the higher rpm from the dif or my heavier foot now that the car feels like it’s got an extra 50 Hp
I’ll double check the freeway rpm today but it’s not that much higher than before and drives quiet and smooth at 85.
There were about a dozen available around Sacramento valley for $100 to $150.
While I was tempted to go with a 2.82 the E420 came with a 2.65 in Europe so I decided to go with that.
I’m still waiting on the Yelo box to arrive from Australia to correct the speedo and as such I can’t honestly say the exact mpg difference but I feel like it’s 1-2 mpg less. Not sure if I can blame the higher rpm from the dif or my heavier foot now that the car feels like it’s got an extra 50 Hp
I’ll double check the freeway rpm today but it’s not that much higher than before and drives quiet and smooth at 85.
Were there non-ASR W140 S-classes?
What specific models and years that can serve as 2.65 differential donor for NON-ASR 400E?
How does one distinguish ASR vs non-ASR differential? I assume this is an ASR diff because it has 2 cables plugged into it, and a non-ASR would have only one, is that correct?
How does one distinguish ASR vs non-ASR differential? I assume this is an ASR diff because it has 2 cables plugged into it, and a non-ASR would have only one, is that correct?
Thanks! Can you please describe, using extra epithets, what and how you've felt during the first 10 miles after installing a 2.65 differential? I just want to hear it
Yes. ASR was standard on the 5.0L and 6.0L, but this was optional equipment on the lesser 140's, at least through 1995. At some point in the late 90's it might have become standard equipment, but it doesn't matter on the late stuff, because the design changed in late 94 or early 95 model year (VIN break noted above) where the speed sensors were relocated to the wheel carrier instead of on top of the differential. Cost reduction - allowed using the same diff for models with & without ASR/ESP/whatever.
See below.
Correct!
Yes. 129.066 chassis, verify via datacard or photos of the diff, to confirm ASR vs non-ASR.
1 cable at the pinion (side of diff) for non-ASR.
2 cables at the top of the diff for ASR, as seen in post #160.
If you could find a nice one under $200 delivered that would be great. I'd pay a bit more for a lower-mile, rust-free diff but that's hard to find. I think Kegman got one for ~$150 locally?
Note it must be 1990-1992 model years ONLY. !!!!!!!! Get the donor VIN and verify it's a 129.066 chassis. The 1993 500SL is 129.067 chassis, totally different pumpkin, and will not work in the W124.
YUP! Use car-part.com as well, and search for "carrier". Be careful, sometimes they list S500 thinking the SL is the same, and it ain't... this is where the donor VIN is very helpful in weeding out the wrong stuff.
I got it for $100. They had three of them at Stockton, CA recycling place. They all were listed as no ASR. I picked the one with super low mileage and waited 1.5 hours for them to pull it and it turned out it was an ASR unit.
They asked for another hour to pull the second one. I told them to confirm it only had one plug before I waited around any longer. Thankfully it was the right one.
PRO TIP: Specifically state to the company that they need to follow the sensor plug cable from the dif back to the car and unplug it. The lazy tech just cut the cable on mine so I ended up reusing my old sensor but it would be nice to have the part for backup. New from the dealer is over $200 but still available for now.
We finally got electricity back long enough to look at the replies and look for parts. You can tell where my priorities lie...
I found a diff for $150 at a local salvage yard from a 1991 500SL that I'm 75% confident will work. I also found a picture of the W203 wheels I have on our platform:
I've had these wheels sitting in my garage for the past 5 years (forgot I even had them up in the back of my storage shelf) and I'm thinking that they will be the ones to run for a little bit after everything is taken care of maintenance wise. What do you think of this setup? I know they won't be for everyone but doesn't hurt to get someone else's thoughts while I wait for the south to thaw out.
I found a diff for $150 at a local salvage yard from a 1991 500SL that I'm 75% confident will work. I also found a picture of the W203 wheels I have on our platform:
I've had these wheels sitting in my garage for the past 5 years (forgot I even had them up in the back of my storage shelf) and I'm thinking that they will be the ones to run for a little bit after everything is taken care of maintenance wise. What do you think of this setup? I know they won't be for everyone but doesn't hurt to get someone else's thoughts while I wait for the south to thaw out.
They're a staggered setup, something I used to hate because of not being able to rotate tires. I've gotten over that hurdle by telling myself tires aren't that expensive per mile if you're enjoying the car to its fullest. And not blaming the car when I'm being an idiot.
Front:
7.5Jx17 ET37
Rear:
8.5Jx17 ET34
Tires are 225/45r17 front, 245/40r17 rear.
Front:
7.5Jx17 ET37
Rear:
8.5Jx17 ET34
Tires are 225/45r17 front, 245/40r17 rear.
Fronts are fine with some mild mods. The rears will require serious fender lip rolling as per the AMG docs that I linked somewhere earlier in this thread, I think. And a round-profile tire shoulder. Get non-directional tires so you can at least rotate left to right...
Round profile tire shoulder doesn't mean stretching does it? I don't like to do that if I can avoid it. I'm trying to contact the owner of the pictured car to see what all he has done to make the wheels and tires fit but I'll be ordering the Sportline springs and Bilstein sport struts as per your recommendation and after talking to Jonathon at Blue Ridge. He'll also be happy to discuss the sway bars and other suspension mods when I get a chance to drive there this spring.
I don't want to cut the fenders and widen but the more I look at the 500E, the more my brain is telling me I won't be happy until I've spent all my money on this car
I don't want to cut the fenders and widen but the more I look at the 500E, the more my brain is telling me I won't be happy until I've spent all my money on this car
No, not stretched... that's installing purposely too-narrow tires for the wheels. Some brands of tires have a rounder profile (i.e., Conti) while some others have a more square profile. The round profile can help where clearance is tight. There was a thread discussing this a few years ago with 10" rear wheels on a 500E, one brand of tire would clear, another would not, both the identical size.
Be careful when people tell you what 'fits'. You can bolt on 9" fronts and 10" rears and roll the car forward & back in your driveway, that "fits"... but it would be undriveable in the real world. Again, if you follow the AMG instructions and don't go wider/larger than what AMG approved, it should be fine.
No need to cut the fenders, just roll (fold upward) the fender lips and maybe twiddle the plastic moulding & bumpers. Just be careful that you don't end up spending so much that you could have bought a 500E to begin with...I don't want to cut the fenders and widen but the more I look at the 500E, the more my brain is telling me I won't be happy until I've spent all my money on this car
Perfect! I have Contintentals on there right now. The control contact something or another. I'm not going to attempt to get them down until I can back one of the cars up. Otherwise I don't trust myself not to drop them right on top of the car.
I also found these, the 15 inchers. Are these what came with the car stock?
I also found these, the 15 inchers. Are these what came with the car stock?
Possibly... would need to get the size & part number from the back side to confirm. There were a number of different 15-inch, 8-holers.
Yeah the number of different 8-holers that I found are ridiculous. People on Marketplace don't make it easier because it takes several tries for them to figure out what numbers I'm talking about. Let us see what pictures she sends me this time.
Oh and I finally got in contact with the guy that used to own the pictured car. He said all he did was roll the lip and trim the liner slightly, lowered on H&R springs. Seems very doable if I can find the correct tires to put on. He said he ran Pirelli soft compounds but I'm going to stick with Contis if I can.
Not as concerned right now with this because this poop storm will end soon, but if you run winter tires which ones would you recommend?
This falls under the bucket of "Be careful when people tell you what 'fits'." If you don't corner hard or have luggage/passengers, it may be ok. But when you push the envelope, there could be rubbing. Again, follow the AMG docs and you should be fine.
Snow tires are a whole 'nuther discussion. Depends if you deal with deep snow, or packed snow, or mostly ice, or mostly clean pavement with ice. I deal with mostly clean pavement and ice, so I use studless snows, like Blizzaks or the Conti/Michelin equivalents. Tire Rack has some good comparison test on snows. Remember you can use stock wheels for your snows, since you're not going to be be strafing apexes on Blizzaks. A heavy foot will shred the soft rubber compound, so go easy on 'em.
I will be looking into some Blizzaks for travel purposes 
I want to be able to take this car year round to anywhere I want and that entails having the proper rubber. Driving up to Canada with the all-seasons when a freak blizzard hit was not fun the last time, and that was with a lowly CLK. I will be better equipped for winter driving next time and with less stains on the underwear.
2.65 diff from a 500SL is on the way and next I was looking into steel brake hoses because the rubber ones currently on there don't look the best. Not trying to bust a line while travelling at unmentionable speeds and I prefer the stiffer pedal feel and security of steel hoses. I've put them on every car I own for that reason, and up until now it's been StopTech branded ones. Otherwise I'm happy with the braking performance from the stock setup. Consensus opinion is Deerfield Precision is the best option for this car?
I want to be able to take this car year round to anywhere I want and that entails having the proper rubber. Driving up to Canada with the all-seasons when a freak blizzard hit was not fun the last time, and that was with a lowly CLK. I will be better equipped for winter driving next time and with less stains on the underwear.2.65 diff from a 500SL is on the way and next I was looking into steel brake hoses because the rubber ones currently on there don't look the best. Not trying to bust a line while travelling at unmentionable speeds and I prefer the stiffer pedal feel and security of steel hoses. I've put them on every car I own for that reason, and up until now it's been StopTech branded ones. Otherwise I'm happy with the braking performance from the stock setup. Consensus opinion is Deerfield Precision is the best option for this car?
These have incorrect fitting? I've never had trouble with StopTech before but don't know anything about the application on this car besides a few mentions of 14mm fittings instead of 17mm. Or maybe that was another brand.
centricparts.com
centricparts.com
Part Detail
Part Detail
I don't know. I've never bought them, and nobody on this forum has bought them and posted photos. The 14mm front fitting will require cobbling a washer in place to hold the fitting in the frame bracket. From the photos, it appears the front StopTech hoses have 14mm fittings front & rear.
Look at the photos here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_brakes/hoses/
My eyes are not trained enough to determine the difference between 14mm and 17mm. They are also more expensive than the ones that are known to fit from a company y'all are already buying from. There's no logical point in breaking that trend. Thank you again for all the resources and pictures you provide, Dave!
Already ordered!
Already ordered!
Alright I'm getting a little frustrated with this crank position sensor. Got the bolt out but no matter how much I twist and pull on it I can't get it to come out of the hole. I don't want to snap it off in there because that's a can of worms that I'm not interested in opening. Any suggestions?
Oh
... Search for stuck/frozen crank position sensor/CPK... This is what I fear as well when I'll get to mine. Whatever you do, DON'T snap it
I will give that a try because I'm definitely not ready to pull the transmission out. I'll give it the night to soak, try again tomorrow, and then soak more if it doesn't want to budge. Haven't had any trouble starting her back up at any point, yet. But I know with my luck it will have to be done at some point soon. And I've learned not to force things in old cars when I'm tired. Only makes things much much worse.
On a very positive note, the throttle body that @sheward sent has done the trick as far as I can tell and I'm now driving the best old car I have without it dying on me at any speed or RPM. It idles perfect, drops down gears when it's supposed to, revs all the way to redline, and in general just drives like I thought it should when everything was repaired. Put a good 100 miles on it without anything negative happening (knocking on wood). I have to get used to the stoplight acceleration though. Did an unintended "extended" burnout while testing it against the CLK55. The melting snow didn't help.
Now I can finally begin the suspension rebuild, along with making her look pretty again. And get the new rubber mounted. Slowly moving towards being what she deserves to be!
Alright, controversial topic because I know it will detract from the era of Mercedes this car is from. Are there any known flat replacements I can get for the hood ornament or what size I should be looking for? So many sizes and part numbers online that I can't tell which one will fit and which ones are for cars like the CLK. That one is slightly too large for the opening, I tried.
The original ornament got taken off by someone at the local HEB. Ruined the grill opening in doing so. I ordered new ones to replace both, but I don't like giving someone a newer target if I can avoid it. I'll keep the metal one from Mercedes for when I won't be away from the car for more than a minute.
The original ornament got taken off by someone at the local HEB. Ruined the grill opening in doing so. I ordered new ones to replace both, but I don't like giving someone a newer target if I can avoid it. I'll keep the metal one from Mercedes for when I won't be away from the car for more than a minute.
The gunsight mount changed as of 1994 on the 124 chassis, where it inserted into the hood, not the grille. The CLK is late 90's and will be the same type.
You need something that mounts into the grille, not the hood. So look for flat replacements that works for 1980's and early 90's.
I'm surprised people still pilfer these things.
You need something that mounts into the grille, not the hood. So look for flat replacements that works for 1980's and early 90's.
I'm surprised people still pilfer these things.
Thank you, that helps narrow the search! I don't think it had to do with wanting the emblem more than wanting to damage something someone else has. Won't be happening again.
Maybe your Dad took it?
He was trying to steal the car just three posts ago?
He was trying to steal the car just three posts ago?
Hmmm he would have had to run from inside the store and back without me noticing. He's spry for his age but not that quick. Unless he's picked up teleporting...Maybe your Dad took it?
He was trying to steal the car just three posts ago?
Welp almost got stranded today when car decided to shut off while sitting at a light. Temp started climbing near 100 and then it turned off first time. Stayed calm and started it back up and had to hold the revs above 1000 to maybe have the fan cool the engine down a little because I thought that was the problem. Limped back home and it shut off again as I pulled into the driveway. Pulled codes and only one I got was Pin 7, 6 blinks. Code doesn't apply to USA models according to link @gsxr provided. From previous discussions I believe this is the CPK, yes?
I was so happy with the car I jinxed it. Drove it 200 miles right before this happened but it was all highway and I think it kept it together because the car was being cooled at 75mph winds into the grill. Thinking once I hit the city on the first warm day, it got hot and crankshaft position sensor said no thanks. Is my line of thought correct?
I was so happy with the car I jinxed it. Drove it 200 miles right before this happened but it was all highway and I think it kept it together because the car was being cooled at 75mph winds into the grill. Thinking once I hit the city on the first warm day, it got hot and crankshaft position sensor said no thanks. Is my line of thought correct?
It's hard to tell for sure... but if the crank sensor is original, and you're guessing at a part to throw at it, that would be worth a try. However, what you describe is not the "typical" CKP failure mode. But it would be tough to pinpoint further without viewing live data, while the problem was occurring...
Since I already have the part I'm praying this is it. Temp never got to 100 but I thought that would be a factor in the sensor suddenly crapping out. There was a hint of a rough idle just before it shut down the first time as well. I need to get a SDS...
After a few first degree burns, lots of WD40, and a little cursing the heavens, I got the old CPK out. It looks to be the original metal one from Bosch, made in Germany.
Got the Hella replacement in and tightened with more burns and cursing. Is there any reset procedure that needs to be done or just turn on and test?
Got the Hella replacement in and tightened with more burns and cursing. Is there any reset procedure that needs to be done or just turn on and test?
