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OWNER Kridre (400E)
- Thread starter Kridre
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Me too, I hope it will last. Sadly modern zinc plating don't even come close to what was done in the 90's.
Today, I tried fitting NEW OEM made in 2019 front fender... and word "tried" describes this the best...
This is how MB fender from the end of the production aligns on the car.
The fender is at its highest position, and it is sill not lined up with the doors and there is almost no space between A pillar. Without some bending and cutting there is just no way to align it correctly. Two years ago I bought some Chinese crap fender for my other W124, and it lined almost the same as this one for the fraction of the cost. Of course, this one is still better in many places, but something like this is just unacceptable to me for the price that I paid for this piece of metal.
I decided that I will use my old fender, and this will be a spare or maybe I will sell it IDK.
I started the resurrection of my old fenders, and found a rust free drivers' door.
This is how MB fender from the end of the production aligns on the car.
The fender is at its highest position, and it is sill not lined up with the doors and there is almost no space between A pillar. Without some bending and cutting there is just no way to align it correctly. Two years ago I bought some Chinese crap fender for my other W124, and it lined almost the same as this one for the fraction of the cost. Of course, this one is still better in many places, but something like this is just unacceptable to me for the price that I paid for this piece of metal.
I decided that I will use my old fender, and this will be a spare or maybe I will sell it IDK.
I started the resurrection of my old fenders, and found a rust free drivers' door.
The dome light in my other 124 was acting up strange, I decided to look what happened in there and here is what I found. Never seen that happening.
Because I didn't find a good solution to oil cooler hoses, I decided I will mount them as they are right now. Maybe they will not leak (I really hope so) and because I couldn't zinc plate them I gave them some "gold zinc spray paint" it will not last more than 3 years I already tested this, but I will be some additional protection for the time being.
Of course the list of NLA parts is slowly growing, I wanted to replace this high pressure power steering hose of course it is NLA. It is not leaking, so I will not bother replacing only the ruber hose right now, and I have some PTSD from two years ago when hydraulic shop destroyed my trans cooler hose that was really expensive from MB. This time I am the believer of religion, "if it ain't broken don't try to fix it". Also, I knew when I was doing this S shaped power steering line 5 years ago, that this heat shield will come in hand in a future. I also gave this line, a quick lick of paint.
I also wanted to order brand-new hood grille for pre face lift. Guess what? NLA!!! That's nice, also plastic inster is also NLA. Dam, I remember buying it for $50...
Because I didn't find a good solution to oil cooler hoses, I decided I will mount them as they are right now. Maybe they will not leak (I really hope so) and because I couldn't zinc plate them I gave them some "gold zinc spray paint" it will not last more than 3 years I already tested this, but I will be some additional protection for the time being.
Of course the list of NLA parts is slowly growing, I wanted to replace this high pressure power steering hose of course it is NLA. It is not leaking, so I will not bother replacing only the ruber hose right now, and I have some PTSD from two years ago when hydraulic shop destroyed my trans cooler hose that was really expensive from MB. This time I am the believer of religion, "if it ain't broken don't try to fix it". Also, I knew when I was doing this S shaped power steering line 5 years ago, that this heat shield will come in hand in a future. I also gave this line, a quick lick of paint.
I also wanted to order brand-new hood grille for pre face lift. Guess what? NLA!!! That's nice, also plastic inster is also NLA. Dam, I remember buying it for $50...
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Some left fender repair after sand blasting the edges, now it it's ready for paint.
Also, more parts are being ordered, now I bought new hood hinges, fire extinguisher carpet and two body parts to make my life easier when I will be doing all that body work. Summer, please come soon this year, I'm really missing driving this car already and there will be at least two more years of work to finish all of this.
Also, more parts are being ordered, now I bought new hood hinges, fire extinguisher carpet and two body parts to make my life easier when I will be doing all that body work. Summer, please come soon this year, I'm really missing driving this car already and there will be at least two more years of work to finish all of this.
Finally, some nice weather here!! Time to get this party rolling again, today only some cleaning of the engine bay, tomorrow will be more of the same. I need clean work space first before cutting and welding. Also, you can see what brake fluid dose to the paint, even if you hit with everything to clean it... Paint under the asr/abs pump is gone, same under the brake booster.
Side note: my friend told me that more than 10 years ago he saw this car in our neighborhood. Strut tower decided to give up, and they were looking for someone to weld it back. Probably it was exported to the east. Old polish roads were not easy for any car. This engine bay will always be a masterpiece for me.
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Side note: my friend told me that more than 10 years ago he saw this car in our neighborhood. Strut tower decided to give up, and they were looking for someone to weld it back. Probably it was exported to the east. Old polish roads were not easy for any car. This engine bay will always be a masterpiece for me.
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Progress is made, I installed some led lights and made myself "sandblasting booth". Today I used almost one full bucket of blasting media and managed to get almost the same amount back. Pretty happy with this afterthought setup.
Also there is nothing left in the engine bay. I hope I will remember how to put all of this back together.
Also there is nothing left in the engine bay. I hope I will remember how to put all of this back together.
Nice workspace. The vertical lights are a good idea. I'm going to add some.
I gave up on the sandblasting cabinet. Without proper air exchange and lighting I can not see what I am doing. I now blast outside and buy new media. I was suprised just the other day that a 50lb. bag of blast media was $50.00 at Harbor Freight, our discount tool store here in the Ununited States. I think that's about double what I paid some years ago.
I'd love to have the room you have there.
I gave up on the sandblasting cabinet. Without proper air exchange and lighting I can not see what I am doing. I now blast outside and buy new media. I was suprised just the other day that a 50lb. bag of blast media was $50.00 at Harbor Freight, our discount tool store here in the Ununited States. I think that's about double what I paid some years ago.
I'd love to have the room you have there.
Drew, which powder do you use from HF?
www.harborfreight.com
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!
I have used Aluminum Oxide and sand. I also purchased, but have not yet used, glass bead.
I used more of the sand due to the lower cost and some wrought iron projects where there is no concern about removing coatings and leaving a rougher surface. I've not yet tried the glass bead. I am saving that for various car parts with slick/soft surfaces or coatings.
I believe I was looking at sand the other day. I did not purchase any as I've completed most of that work. I'll now be experimenting with some other medias.
I used more of the sand due to the lower cost and some wrought iron projects where there is no concern about removing coatings and leaving a rougher surface. I've not yet tried the glass bead. I am saving that for various car parts with slick/soft surfaces or coatings.
I believe I was looking at sand the other day. I did not purchase any as I've completed most of that work. I'll now be experimenting with some other medias.
This blasting media is doing great! I couldn't even get the old paint from the LCA with the sand, and here is the front bar and 1 LCA after 4 hours of blasting. This is as fast as I will get with $10 blasting gun.
Even tho the rust is almost removed, I will treat every pitting with this rust converter/epoxy sealer.
I want to blast everything over the weekend and paint maybe on Monday to keep the bare metal exposure to the minimum.
Even tho the rust is almost removed, I will treat every pitting with this rust converter/epoxy sealer.
I want to blast everything over the weekend and paint maybe on Monday to keep the bare metal exposure to the minimum.
Also, is someone able to tell me from this video if this amount of play in the steering box is normal? I had a lot of play in the steering, and I'm checking every component, but here I'm not sure. I found some play in my idler arm, and I will order new left and right linkages even tho they look and feel fine. (Only OEM route, I think?)
Drag link was replaced, is tight and no need to replace it.
If the box is fine I will replace only the input shaft seal. It wasn't leaking ,but while I'm in there why not.
Drag link was replaced, is tight and no need to replace it.
If the box is fine I will replace only the input shaft seal. It wasn't leaking ,but while I'm in there why not.
In the CENTER position, there should be zero play in the steering box. Anywhere off center, there is some play as shown in your video.
Double-check with the box centered.
The small input shaft seal rarely leaks, and requires total disassembly of the box to replace. The large output shaft seal at the Pitman arm is the frequent leaker, and is easy to replace (details here).
Yes, only OE links for the tie rod assemblies. Lemforder is ok if you can find any made in Germany, otherwise pay extra for OE/Genuine.
Double-check with the box centered.
The small input shaft seal rarely leaks, and requires total disassembly of the box to replace. The large output shaft seal at the Pitman arm is the frequent leaker, and is easy to replace (details here).
Yes, only OE links for the tie rod assemblies. Lemforder is ok if you can find any made in Germany, otherwise pay extra for OE/Genuine.
My mistake, was thinking about the seal that don't require disassembly, so output seal.
The box is in the center position... off center there is twice this amount. Now question where do I send it for repair? If someone incompetent will mess something up, finding a replacement sportline V8 box will be almost impossible or really $$$. I need to ask around. Or maybe can I try to eliminate the play following FSM? I was more comfortable ripping apart a whole transmission than messing with this thing.
The box is in the center position... off center there is twice this amount. Now question where do I send it for repair? If someone incompetent will mess something up, finding a replacement sportline V8 box will be almost impossible or really $$$. I need to ask around. Or maybe can I try to eliminate the play following FSM? I was more comfortable ripping apart a whole transmission than messing with this thing.
Shoot. If there is play in center position... that is unusual. I've never had a W124 with any play in the center position. I'd look for a good used steering box from another .034 chassis, unless you can find a competent rebuilder locally. There are threads on other forums discussing disassembly and repair if you have the time to try that route.
Glad I can surprise even you with something new. I measured the play using dial indicator after actually setting the box in the center (I forgot where is up and down of the box). There is about 0.2 mm (7.8 thou) play measured at the top of the ball joint mounting point.
I'm searching for this box for more than 5 years because I suspected there might be an issue with it and I saw only one here on the forum brand new that sold before I even could process what I'm seeing. P/N of the box 124-460-94-01.
I'm searching for this box for more than 5 years because I suspected there might be an issue with it and I saw only one here on the forum brand new that sold before I even could process what I'm seeing. P/N of the box 124-460-94-01.
I found, bought and installed a NOS V8 Sportline Box a while ago and have my original non Sportline steering box sitting on the shelf. Not sure though if freight won't make this cost prohibitive, as these boxes are super heavy.....
Never mind Kidre - just saw in my notes that there was a leak to my old box, so it would need a seal replacement :-(
Never mind Kidre - just saw in my notes that there was a leak to my old box, so it would need a seal replacement :-(
the difference for me was substantial. The sportline box is heavier in feel and more direct. I really, really like it and would try to keep it in the car if I were you
OH! I didn't realize you had a factory Sportline box! Definitely keep / repair that one. It does have a different (quicker) ratio vs standard.
Are you 1000% certain the box was in the center position when you tested it?
I triple checked, box in the center position, 0.2mm play on the arm. On the attached video, box wasn't in the center position. I will leave it as is for now. After I reassemble everything I will check the play on the steering again on the new linkages and if it will be a lot more than I like then I will do something about it.
More news from the MB. Tie rod left and right P/N 129-330-02-03 and 03-03 are now NLA from the Germany. I just ordered the last remaining 129-330-02-03 tie rod. There are some left in local warehouses around the EU, but 03-03 shows as NLA everywhere in the EU. So what is left in the US is left there, and no more new OEM tie rods.
Owning this car's is becoming a little bit of a challenge, glad mine is not driving anytime soon. I won't introduce any wear to the NLA components.
I will try Lemforder before ordering new OEM from the FCP euro.
More news from the MB. Tie rod left and right P/N 129-330-02-03 and 03-03 are now NLA from the Germany. I just ordered the last remaining 129-330-02-03 tie rod. There are some left in local warehouses around the EU, but 03-03 shows as NLA everywhere in the EU. So what is left in the US is left there, and no more new OEM tie rods.
Owning this car's is becoming a little bit of a challenge, glad mine is not driving anytime soon. I won't introduce any wear to the NLA components.
I will try Lemforder before ordering new OEM from the FCP euro.
0.2mm should be barely perceptible. I agree, leave it alone for now. Under pressure from the P/S pump there may be zero play felt at the steering wheel.
Aaargh. MBCC still shows -02-03 as available (link) but that may change. Did you talk to a dealer and ask what codes appeared for this part?
I'll be surprised if the Lemforder shown is made in Germany. Maybe they have some old stock?
Remember you can interchange the left & right assemblies, or swap tie tod ends as needed. The driver side has a hex tube and passenger side has a round tube, but that is the only difference.
I don't think MB even cares at this point. LCA could also be a safety part but besides left sportline arm they are NLA. Three out of four tie rod ends don't even show up on the MBCC site. One that is showing is also NLA.
Also 2 years ago I couldn't even get rebuild kit for rear caliper at the MB. IDK if that's still the case.
Also 2 years ago I couldn't even get rebuild kit for rear caliper at the MB. IDK if that's still the case.
As noted above, it appears both inner (LH thread) and outer (RH thread) tie rod ends are NLA from MB, and I can't find both available OEM aftermarket either. Just no-name junk brands. Not good.
Nope. MB wants you to crush your planet-killing, CO+HC spewing fossil burner, and give them $100k+ for a new EV. Eliminating spare part support for combustion engined vehicles will speed up your conversion to EV. So they believe.
@gsxr,
Dave, I think you’ve hit the mail on the head! A term comes to mind that MB has
“THROWN US UNDER THE BUS”.
I been thinking the same thing for a while now with all of the NLA parts that are showing up. Not just in the 034 & 036 but other MB models as well. It’s not fair to abandon the loyal customers that have supported the Mercedes Brand all of these years. We are the ones that made them such a powerful company.
What goes around comes around. I hope this new policy comes back to bite them in the ass!
I guess people with money to burn will have to go to places like Renn Tech to get their Benz’s restored.
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I'm thinking exactly the same as Dave. Why would they support some old crapy car when they can force you to buy brand new one. Don't forget that awesome deal with yearly subscription!! I'm scraping my 124 and rushing after that to buy that sweet new EV. I can't miss out on this amazing deal! Furthermore, I also noticed that even new OEM parts took a deep dive for the worse in last few years, I bought brand-new emblem for the grille and the blue paint washed off after first good wash and new tank cap I installed 3 years ago the rubber gasket already looks like the 23 years old one.
This will be the only 124 that I will ever restore because of parts availability, even now I think I'm 4 years late to the party. Glad I already have almost everything to get this job done.
I succeded with painting everything today, I'm really happy with the results. Having a proper spray gun is really the key! I never laid down such a nice layer of paint with my old guns. Now I need to get some parts zinc plated and finish everything off with some nice black satin paint, but looking at these parts right now, I'm not sure about painting them black. This aluminum color really looks pretty nice already.
Of course, the sand blasting cabin is now a pant booth.
This will be the only 124 that I will ever restore because of parts availability, even now I think I'm 4 years late to the party. Glad I already have almost everything to get this job done.
I succeded with painting everything today, I'm really happy with the results. Having a proper spray gun is really the key! I never laid down such a nice layer of paint with my old guns. Now I need to get some parts zinc plated and finish everything off with some nice black satin paint, but looking at these parts right now, I'm not sure about painting them black. This aluminum color really looks pretty nice already.
Of course, the sand blasting cabin is now a pant booth.
Yesterday, OEM tie rod arrived. Made by HEYD, very recent production date. I'm still waiting for the lemfored that I ordered few days ago, after it arrives I will post some side by side pictures.
In the meantime I started to do some cleaning, I cleaned the hub that I didn't replace the bearing already, and it looks pretty nice for the age, but the bearing is in the need of replacement.
So quick trip to the parts store (Translation: shelf behind me) and I just pressed new bearings to the hub.
Here you can see the difference between the hub seal (left FAG, right OEM style I think?). I definitively like the left one more.
In regard to this metal thingies that sit at the bottom of the spring, here is how it looks like in place.
Some more cleaning.
Also it's time to bring this spaghetti of a mess back to its glory.
Much better.
I'm doing whatever I can to keep the project going. Now the winter/fall came back in Poland for whatever reason, so a little bit of a halt to the work outside.
In the meantime I started to do some cleaning, I cleaned the hub that I didn't replace the bearing already, and it looks pretty nice for the age, but the bearing is in the need of replacement.
So quick trip to the parts store (Translation: shelf behind me) and I just pressed new bearings to the hub.
Here you can see the difference between the hub seal (left FAG, right OEM style I think?). I definitively like the left one more.
In regard to this metal thingies that sit at the bottom of the spring, here is how it looks like in place.
Some more cleaning.
Also it's time to bring this spaghetti of a mess back to its glory.
Much better.
I'm doing whatever I can to keep the project going. Now the winter/fall came back in Poland for whatever reason, so a little bit of a halt to the work outside.
Was your order from FCP cancelled? Lemforder 1073501 still shows available here:Lemoforder tie rod is NLA patr number 10735 01. Im on the hunt to find at least one remaining somewhere.Im just lost for words.
Mercedes Tie Rod Assembly - Lemforder 1293300203
Mercedes Tie Rod Assembly - Lemforder 1293300203
www.fcpeuro.com
If you can get another OE/Heyd assembly, use that... left and right assemblies are interchangeable. Re-use the old hexagon tube with the new Heyd ends/joints, if you want to remain "period correct".
@gsxr I was trying to order locally first before sending my money abroad, but nothing left from the 20 listings on one site there is only 2 left. Probably the store that I ordered from asked everyone, so that whiped out almost every listing. I will go to MB tomorow and I will try to oder another OEM tie rod. Price is the same vs lemoforder from FCP with shipping.
Looks great! Make sure to install the LCA rubber bushings based on the photos here. One of the FSM documents has incorrect diagrams/drawings, this might be early printed manuals, I can't remember.
This time I attacked all of the rust in the engine bay, I really really REALLY hate the mounts welded to the body of the car for plastic screws that fender liners mount. Every one of them is rusted. I don't know how to prevent this form happening in the future, this is just a flawed stupid design.
Also other mounts are no exception this is how everything looks before disassembled, nothing major right?
WRONG, just another hole to patch up.
After some welding any bending here is how it turned out.
Here is the rest of the damage,as you can see someone was already in here. All I can say is that the job was not done correctly. Zero primer before aplaying seam sealer is just asking for rust to form, also the putty was applied on bare metal and just look at the amount of it.
After drilling out the spot welds and cutting this is what I was left with. All of that could have been prevented IF ONLY someone would have done the job the right way.
Now time for first round of blasting.
Here is more garbage work by some bodyshop, why would you replace the broken clip? Just glue it back with silicone.
More to come, now it's time for some fabrication and welding.
Also other mounts are no exception this is how everything looks before disassembled, nothing major right?
WRONG, just another hole to patch up.
After some welding any bending here is how it turned out.
Here is the rest of the damage,as you can see someone was already in here. All I can say is that the job was not done correctly. Zero primer before aplaying seam sealer is just asking for rust to form, also the putty was applied on bare metal and just look at the amount of it.
After drilling out the spot welds and cutting this is what I was left with. All of that could have been prevented IF ONLY someone would have done the job the right way.
Now time for first round of blasting.
Here is more garbage work by some bodyshop, why would you replace the broken clip? Just glue it back with silicone.
More to come, now it's time for some fabrication and welding.
Oh no they are multiplying 
My friends 124 needed front window regulator replacement and there was a fuel smell in the back. Smell was from leaking fuel pump, someone didn't tighten the banjo bolt after replacing the fuel pump.
Big panel is almost back in, just need to do some final adjustments and weld it fully.
My friends 124 needed front window regulator replacement and there was a fuel smell in the back. Smell was from leaking fuel pump, someone didn't tighten the banjo bolt after replacing the fuel pump.
Big panel is almost back in, just need to do some final adjustments and weld it fully.
Well, I think I have a bit too many subframe bushings. Going from left OEM, OEM, FEBI?????, MEYLE, MEYLE. I'm wondering what should I use. I know that the one from the left have tall tabs, so it is probably 129-351-15-42 sportline. I really don't know where I got it 
, but what about the bigger one? From my findings I see that this is not a sportline bushing. So maybe risk it and go with MEYLE sportline for the larger bushing and OEM for the smaller?
, but what about the bigger one? From my findings I see that this is not a sportline bushing. So maybe risk it and go with MEYLE sportline for the larger bushing and OEM for the smaller?
Hello, I'm at the quick trip in the mountains. Over-all almost no issues with my father's 260E but when doing 200km/h one of the rear tiers decided to almost blew up. There rest of the tiers also don't look to good. Cracks all around, I was looking at them when before and told my father about this, but because they have a lot of thread left he said something along the lines: "nah, all good why replace almost brand new tiers", also this tiers are less than 5 years-old and I drove less than 10k miles. Glad I had a good spare in the trunk, also the engine is sluggish as heck. There is no way to accelerate gently, only 100% pedal to the floor or 10% throttle. I really don't know how to fix this, I have been struggling with this issue for more than over a year. Diagnostic of mechanical injection in not my strong side.
On thie side note, views in the mountains are as beautiful as always.
On thie side note, views in the mountains are as beautiful as always.
Attachments
@TimL I also really like this color, I'm thinking about painting my 400E like this or maybe in midnight blue, but I'm still not sure. If I change the color of the car I will no longer be able to register it with historic yellow license plates, and with the upcoming emissions restrictions in a few cities this could come in handy.
I also arrived back at home, on the way back remaing 3 tires also decided to go full balloon mode. 100km more and I would be calling a tow truck or my father to get me the winter wheels.
I also arrived back at home, on the way back remaing 3 tires also decided to go full balloon mode. 100km more and I would be calling a tow truck or my father to get me the winter wheels.
Quick question... the tires were purchased 5 years ago or they were manufactured 5 years ago per the date code on them?
Regards,
Peter
Regards,
Peter
Nokian xline, they are no longer selling this model. Probably because of this exact issue. I have 3 more sets of nokian tires in various cars, I wonder how long they will last. Winter set for 260E is already starting to develop a lot of cracks. They are from the same year.
Stepping aside from the tires I'm still making some progress. I found another hole in the body.
Stepping aside from the tires I'm still making some progress. I found another hole in the body.
