Engine air compressor [smog pump] bearings

[JLL13]

Hi all,

I have the opportunity to get a pump that seems in good condition, but... the car it sits in is a w140, VIN WDB1400321A080520.
According to you, is there a chance that pump could fit into my w124? The serial # are strictly the same to what the vendor says, and if any difference I will not buy it.
Question is that he first has to remove it from the car and then we can meet and deal.
If your answer is "yes, it could", I will ask him to proceed.
If you doubt it could fit despite the serial #, I will save his time by cancelling.

Jean-Louis

 

[gsxr]

WDB1400321A080520 (S320) uses a different part number air pump, p/n 104-140-13-85. I don't know what the difference is but most likely this would NOT work on the M119 engine.

According to the EPC, for your early 500E with 8-rib pulley, the only appropriate donors would be a 1991-1992 W140 or W124 with M119 V8 engine.

 

[JLL13]

Thanks for your (fast) imput gsxr.
I personnaly own a 1992 w140, and I was sharing your doubt, but I checked yesterday under the hood, and... yes the part number of the pump is exactely the same as the one on my 500E! Amazing!
Most probably the 8-grooves pulley will have to be installed i/o a 6-grooves one, but that is a minor issue I guess.
The donor is a 1992, as well.

Jean-Louis

 

[JLL13]

Hello all,

major improvement this week on that issue: the mechanic I gave the pulley to achieved to separate the outer bearing out from the pulley.
Now the 8-grooves pulley is free again (that was a major concern to me, 8-grooves pulleys seem very rare on the used-parts market), and ready to be installed back on the pump.
Next step: find the suitable bearings (will read again with care the whole thread), and buy the magnet from MB. Both should be very easy compared to the previous steps.

Will report here (with pictures as usual),

Jean-Louis

 

[Hakie]

Today i got the 6-groove pulley off the pump. The bearing for this pulley is the one on the picture.
The bearing is “locked” like in the picture. Should i grind the locks away to get the bearing out?

@JLL13, the size of the bearing i ordered is in this topic. But i think they are different in size for the 8-groove pulley.

 

[gsxr]

Today i got the 6-groove pulley off the pump. The bearing for this pulley is the one on the picture.
The bearing is “locked” like in the picture. Should i grind the locks away to get the bearing out?

Yes, you will need to grind away the 'locks' around the outer edge of the old bearing. Even then, it may be difficult to remove the old bearing without damaging the pulley. Once you get the old one out, it's a lot easier... and you can freeze the new bearing to aid installation.

@JLL13, the size of the bearing i ordered is in this topic. But i think they are different in size for the 8-groove pulley.

Yep, earlier in this thread somewhere it was discovered the 6-rib and 8-rib pulleys use different size bearings. I think the following is correct:

6 rib = 30x46x18
8 rib = 32x52x18

Disclaimer: I have never replaced this bearing, I've only read about it..

 

[M104]

You don't need to grind that "locks". They will easy "give up" under pressure from the press. After you press new bearing, you can "re-lock" bearing and distance ring, using suitable tool. If you grind them, distance ring can be not secured properly.



And one more thing - pay attention to the mounting direction of the bearing. When I was doing this for the first time, I pressed it inversely

 

[Hakie]

Thanks i will give that a try. [emoji106]

 

[gsxr]

You don't need to grind that "locks". They will easy "give up" under pressure from the press. After you press new bearing, you can "re-lock" bearing and distance ring, using suitable tool. If you grind them, distance ring can be not secured properly.

And one more thing - pay attention to the mounting direction of the bearing. When I was doing this for the first time, I pressed it inversely

Good to know! I thought a different writeup on another forum said the "locks" had to be removed / ground off / unlocked first. If that step can be skipped, it would make the job even easier.

 

[JLL13]

Very interesting tips indeed.
I guess the "locks" were not removed prior to the extraction of the outer bearing race. The mechanic welded the bearing to a big bolt and most probably used a press to get the set apart from the pulley.
Anyway, once I install the new bearing, I do not intend to grind the pulley again against the bearing, I sincerely do not get why that should be useful considering the whole assembly parts from the outer bolt to the pump itself: no way the bearing can escape! So, M104, can you please explain that precise detail?
Very good idea to freeze the bearing prior to install it into the pulley, will try that!

Jean-Louis

 

[Hakie]

Got the bearing replaced very easy. Took me 30 minutes. I have a press but its leaking and was no help.
I scratched away the locks a bit and then i managed to pry the distance ring out with a screwdriver.
With the pulley puller i could press the old bearing out and the same way for pressing the new bearing in. I only used a drop of oil for pressing in. No need to get the bearing in the freezer. It is a tight fit but not mutch force needed. For pressing the last 4mm in i used the old bearing. The distance ring is locked the same way as it was.

 

[Hakie]

Forgot to tell how i got the 22mm nut from the pump.
Clamp a 6mm allen key in a vise and you can easy loose the nut with a 22mm wrench. No impact wrench required.

The new bearing runs very smooth and soundless.

 

[samm]

great pics to help in future for me

 

[timpurister]

In case someone needs the 32x52x18 bearing [for 8-rib pulleys] take a look at this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-B...-Bearing-PFI-Branded-32x52x20-18/131529857572

Free worldwide shipping and made in Florida. Just got mine.

Mercedes Benz Smog Pump / Seiko Seiki Compressor Bearing PFI Branded 32x52x20/18

Smog Pump / Compressor Bearing
Bearing Type: Two Row Ball Bearing Rubber Sealed
Bearing Dimensions: 32x52x20/18mm
Brand: PFI (USA)

Fits:
Mercedes Benz Smog/Air Pump 104-140-06-85 (1991-2001), 104-140-12-85 (1991-2001), 104-140-13-85 (1991-2001), 104-140-14-85 (1991-2001), 109-140-12-85 (1991-2001), 116-140-12-85 (1991-2001), 119-140-09-85 (1991-2001), 120-140-01-85 (1991-2001)
Seiko Seiki Air Conditioning Compressors on BMW 3 Series

Replaces:
INA L32/52 2RSOH03, 00019814227
NTN 2TE2-DF0676LH, 32BD5218, 2TS2-DF0676LLHCS

Delivery to Europe 2-5 Bussiness Days
Oversea delivery 6-14 Bussiness Days

Any questions please ask: [email removed by eBay]​

 

[samiam44]

FYI- you should always check runnout after pressing a new bearing in one of these. Make sure it's running true on the car as any wobble will cause problem.

 

[JLL13]

Hi to all the team!
The 500E was asleep for a while, waiting for me to get the proper design of how to fix that pump the right way at the right price.
So, the bearing was ordered, received, and has been installed for a test on the pump: perfect!
A similar test was processed on the outer pulley, and there obviously, a way to press the bearing inside the pulley is required: I will try Hakie's method.

However I still face another big issue: the magnet ring #120-141-00-88 is absolutely ooo! That ring is the first part to install on the pump before any other, it is then embedded within the outer pulley. Mine has its electrical wire destroyed or litteraly cooked! In a word, useless. According to the MB dealer, that part can not be purchased as a spare part, sold only with the pump. My question then: suppose I rebuild the pump without that magnet ring, what would happen? Except the fact that the pump will be ON (or OFF? I do not know) all the time, what would be the drawbacks? On another hand, I could purchase a whole pump and pick the magnet up, but there again, I will never be 100% sure the second-hand pump will be in a better condition than mine. I am a little bit locked at that point of the project.

Jean-Louis

 

[gsxr]

With the coil / magnet ring fried, the pump would never engage. Other than causing an error code on the LH module, there is no change in engine operation; just increased emissions after a cold start. And of course on USA-spec models, it will trigger the CEL in the instrument cluster.

 

[JLL13]

Many thanks gsxr for your input.
So, IIUC, the pump would never pulse fresh air when the ring is ooo, same as if its wire was unplugged? Right?
That makes sense because I imagine the (electrical) power would run the pump only for a short time, i/o powering all the time while the engine runs.
So, for the time being, because there is strictly no way to puchase the magnet, I will put the pump back in place WITHOUT the ring, WITHOUT pugging the wire.
Once I get the suitable magnet, I may re-install it back in place.

That sounds a good option, at least to me.
Thanks, will report the mounting steps, pictures and comments, as usual.

Many thanks,

Jean-Louis

ps: you mention the LH module (possibly) displaying error code, but the ring is fried since a long time, and the car never displayed any error-code on the dashboard, nor any malfunction behavipur when drivin, the engine runs smooth and very reliable so far.

 

[gsxr]

Many thanks gsxr for your input. So, IIUC, the pump would never pulse fresh air when the ring is ooo, same as if its wire was unplugged? Right?

Correct.

ps: you mention the LH module (possibly) displaying error code, but the ring is fried since a long time, and the car never displayed any error-code on the dashboard, nor any malfunction behavipur when drivin, the engine runs smooth and very reliable so far.

The LH will store a code because the coil (magnet ring) is disconnected / not plugged in. If your car is not USA spec, there will be no lights on the dashboard. The Check Engine light was a USA-only thing. It would be very unusual if a USA-spec car had a non-functioning smog pump and did not trigger a CEL.

Again, the engine will run & drive perfectly - the smog pump is strictly an emissions-reduction item, almost entirely aimed at cold-start operation.

 

[JLL13]

Hi all, great great great day today!
It was bank holiday today in France, and I had planned to test the fixing procedure we had achieved with my son about that air-pump.
And the result is beyond my hopes: first firing, immediate start, very smooth running and absolutely no noise from the pump, no noise from the bearing, and a (brand new) serpentine belt running all the way along the pulleys. That is, to me, a great self-satisfactory feeling to have achieved such a tricky restoration by myself.
I would like to thank all the very valuable comments we had on this thread, allowing me to fix that major issue at a cost of about 30EUR (the bearing cost 15EUR + 15EUR shipment), which sounds absolutely unbelievable.
Pictures coming soon.
Comments coming soon as well.

Have a nice day,
Jean-Louis

 

[lowman]

In case someone needs the 32x52x18 bearing [for 8-rib pulleys] take a look at this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-B...-Bearing-PFI-Branded-32x52x20-18/131529857572

Free worldwide shipping and made in Florida. Just got mine.[/I][/INDENT]

Thanx Ordered a set...a nice little job to put on the "to do" list.I also have a video coming up on an air pump issue on my car

 

[timpurister]

Sure, my issues are hopefully gone. What I did was that out of two old ones built one - maybe working unit - that has now been installed for several weeks without issues. My Smog Pump Clutch Magnet from the 8-groove pulley was dead and it took a while to find one, but I did and it seems to be working ( A1161410488). I am still getting DTC4 on PIN 19 and on saturday the CEL came back. I do think that I need to renew the purge valve too since that is ticking all the time, even when Only ignition is on.

Look Forward to your video.

Thanx Ordered a set...a nice little job to put on the "to do" list.I also have a video coming up on an air pump issue on my car

 

[samiam44]

FYI,

When you are done- you want to put a dial indicator on clutch face of the pulley installed on the pump. If you have very much lateral runout, it's a problem which will eat the airpump housing which is quite soft.

 

[darek_u]

Quick question gents - I want to remove the air pump from the car, do I need to remove the carrier (bracket?) as well? Looking at the pump mounted on the engine it looks to me that removing 2 bolts holding it to the carrier will suffice?

 

[gsxr]

I *think* the pump will come out with the carrier/bracket bolted to the engine, but it may be a tight fit... might need to pull the fan clutch/shroud, and maybe the distributor plastic cover? It's been a while since I've done this and I can't remember.

If you do remove the bracket, make sure to apply anaerobic sealant to the bolts when re-installing or your alternator will (very slowly) get an engine oil bath.

 

[darek_u]

I'll try without removing the bracket first. My pump doesn't have any hoses attached to the back so it might be easier. I'll report back.

 

[Hakie]

I think i got it out downwards. But I had the alternator out also. Can't remember the details and it was only last year.... [emoji41]

 

[ricsim]

I replaced this bearing last year.
I had dismantled the alternator to access the pipes under the compressor.
I had dismantled the compressor bracket to get more space.
I didn't completely pull out the compressor, but I tilted it upwards to remove the pulley

 

[Efraim]

One hint for everybody overhauling smog pump;
Open also the cover in suction side since to there is an air filter that might be dirty. There are no spare parts availabe but it's washable using soap and water.

 

[darek_u]

As promised I report back. I removed the pump without removing the bracket, however I had front light, cowl and SLS tank removed earlier on so it was piece of cake. I think it is possible to remove it without touching the bracket if SLS tank is moved away. Not emptied and removed from the car, just return pipe disconnected and tank moved aside from the bracket.
Now few words about the pump itself. It is a vane type pump, really simple design, it can be fully rebuild by DIYer. I'm just a step away from full rebuild and assembling it back, here are few tips for those who would like to fix theirs.
Pump has altogether 7 bearings:
pulley - widely described above, I'm not going to focus on this one
vanes - 4 pcs of J65 type bearings
shaft - front:6203 2RS type bearing, rear: SCE 188 type bearing
The one that fails most often (besides pulley) is the front shaft bearing. On both pumps I disassembled these bearings were shot. In addition dirt and small particles that make their way to the inside of the pump and get between graphite gaskets and housing are damaging both and making additional noise on top of the damaged bearings. The other bearings should be ok - I had to replace only one small vane bearing as it was little rusty. The other ones only needed new grease after ultrasonic bath in IPA.
The disassembly process is pretty straight forward until it gets to removing the rotor from the aluminum cast. As i don't have a hydraulic press I gave it to the shop that did quite a few things for me in the past. They pressed out the rotor but it was a mistake. The rotor has additional part on top that is pressed in, it won't go through the bearing that is secured with circlip. See below for more clarification:



The cylindrical part marked with arrow is pressed on the top of the rotor where the other arrow is. This is how it ends if you use brute force... See the ripped off cast around the bearing recess?



Luckily it was a spare pumps I got from my mechanic. The pump that I removed from my car I gave to a friend of mine that I fully trust. It took him 10 minutes to disassemble it... The trick was he made an adaptor plate with 4 holes that match the bolt pattern on the rear of the rotor (red circles):



He put 2 spacers between the aluminum body of the pump and the plate then just simply screwed in 4 x M5 bolts evenly. The rotor popped out without a problem. From there it was really simple. Front bearing is secured with circlip, I used vice to press it out, not much force is required. Here is a picture of the pump with removed rear part and the rear part itself, you can see the rear bearing still in place.



Vanes and rear bearing removed from it's carrier. This bearing turned out to be in perfect shape after ultrasonic bath but I replaced it anyway as it was dirt cheap.



New front bearing (not secured with a circlip yet):



To press the rotor in the new bearing and aluminum casting I used my friend hydraulic press, it was much easier, however I think it is fully doable with the vice. The top part of the rotor - I heated it up a little while the rotor spend few hours in the freezer - it drop in to almost full depth. The hydraulic press did the rest of the job. I still need to put it all together but I believe it shouldn't be a big problem.
I hope the above will help to those who want to rebuild their pump rather than disable it.

 

[Efraim]

Hi,

I was repairing my smog pump to replace the pulley and internal bearings. To remove the pulley, back cover and internal pieces of was straightforward task. But the rotor was trickier. The first I tried to press the rotor out from pulley side, but since noting happened with mild force I checked the forum and find the post above.

Without it I would have pressed the internal bearing out like you did for the first trial and destroying pump. BIG thanks for Darek_u!!

 

[Seangbadee]

Are you 100% certain? I investigated this a number of years ago and the 32 X 52 X 18 bearing is what was coming up as the correct pulley bearing.

EDIT: One size is for 8-rib pulleys (1992) and the other for 6-rib (93-95). I think the following is correct:

6 rib = 30x46x18
8 rib = 32x52x18​

The PC30460018CS is not available. Is this bearing I found on bearings direct the same thing?

30BG04S34-2DL A/C Compressor Ball Bearing 30x46x18

Bearings Direct is your online store for quality and precision products at wholesale prices. Browse our wide selection of bearings and other industrial products to meet your needs.

bearingsdirect.com

I crossed reference an MB part number and that's what it pulled up.

 

[Seangbadee]

You don't need to grind that "locks". They will easy "give up" under pressure from the press. After you press new bearing, you can "re-lock" bearing and distance ring, using suitable tool. If you grind them, distance ring can be not secured properly.

View attachment 94324

And one more thing - pay attention to the mounting direction of the bearing. When I was doing this for the first time, I pressed it inversely

I was able to remove my bearing without grinding the locks.
I'll look for one with the same specs

 

[Seangbadee]

In case someone needs the 32x52x18 bearing [for 8-rib pulleys] take a look at this:

Mercedes Benz Smog Pump / Seiko Seiki Compressor Bearing PFI Branded 32x52x20/18 | eBay

Free worldwide shipping and made in Florida. Just got mine.

Mercedes Benz Smog Pump / Seiko Seiki Compressor Bearing PFI Branded 32x52x20/18​

​

Smog Pump / Compressor Bearing​

Bearing Type: Two Row Ball Bearing Rubber Sealed​

Bearing Dimensions: 32x52x20/18mm​

Brand: PFI (USA)​

​

Fits:​

Mercedes Benz Smog/Air Pump 104-140-06-85 (1991-2001), 104-140-12-85 (1991-2001), 104-140-13-85 (1991-2001), 104-140-14-85 (1991-2001), 109-140-12-85 (1991-2001), 116-140-12-85 (1991-2001), 119-140-09-85 (1991-2001), 120-140-01-85 (1991-2001)​

Seiko Seiki Air Conditioning Compressors on BMW 3 Series​

​

Replaces:​

INA L32/52 2RSOH03, 00019814227​

NTN 2TE2-DF0676LH, 32BD5218, 2TS2-DF0676LLHCS​

​

Delivery to Europe 2-5 Bussiness Days​

Oversea delivery 6-14 Bussiness Days​

​

Any questions please ask: [email removed by eBay]​

How did this bearing hold up? I was looking at the one here.

32X52X20/18-2RS Angular Contact Sealed Bearing

32X52X20/18-2RS Angular Contact Ball Bearing One Bearing 32X52X20/18-2RS Double-row Angular Contact Ball Bearing, each 32X52X20/18-2RS bearing has 2 Rubber Seals to protect the bearing from dust or any possible contamination, 32X52X20/18-2RS bearing is self lubricated bearing (bearing is already...

www.vxb.com

 

[Seangbadee]

It's 12.10am in Atlanta and I just completed the refurbishing of my smog pump bearing.
I decided to open it up, after all I had nothing to lose, because I plan on getting another one
Using a tiny precision flat head screwdriver and a feeler guage. I was able to lift up and carefully remove the 2 rubber seals. The bearing was as dry as to be expected with lots of black, dried grease..
After thoroughly cleaning, the bearing, carrier and rubber seals, I proceeded to 'feed' the bearings with MB high temperature antifriction grease until I was fully satisfied that I had lubricated them adequately.
I carefully replaced the 'carrier', double-checked to make sure the grease was adequate, and then replaced the rubber seals.
The bearing feels like it's brand new. The true test will be when it goes back into the car .

 

[Seangbadee]

As promised I report back. I removed the pump without removing the bracket, however I had front light, cowl and SLS tank removed earlier on so it was piece of cake. I think it is possible to remove it without touching the bracket if SLS tank is moved away. Not emptied and removed from the car, just return pipe disconnected and tank moved aside from the bracket.
Now few words about the pump itself. It is a vane type pump, really simple design, it can be fully rebuild by DIYer. I'm just a step away from full rebuild and assembling it back, here are few tips for those who would like to fix theirs.
Pump has altogether 7 bearings:
pulley - widely described above, I'm not going to focus on this one
vanes - 4 pcs of J65 type bearings
shaft - front:6203 2RS type bearing, rear: SCE 188 type bearing
The one that fails most often (besides pulley) is the front shaft bearing. On both pumps I disassembled these bearings were shot. In addition dirt and small particles that make their way to the inside of the pump and get between graphite gaskets and housing are damaging both and making additional noise on top of the damaged bearings. The other bearings should be ok - I had to replace only one small vane bearing as it was little rusty. The other ones only needed new grease after ultrasonic bath in IPA.
The disassembly process is pretty straight forward until it gets to removing the rotor from the aluminum cast. As i don't have a hydraulic press I gave it to the shop that did quite a few things for me in the past. They pressed out the rotor but it was a mistake. The rotor has additional part on top that is pressed in, it won't go through the bearing that is secured with circlip. See below for more clarification:

View attachment 75983

The cylindrical part marked with arrow is pressed on the top of the rotor where the other arrow is. This is how it ends if you use brute force... See the ripped off cast around the bearing recess?

View attachment 75982

Luckily it was a spare pumps I got from my mechanic. The pump that I removed from my car I gave to a friend of mine that I fully trust. It took him 10 minutes to disassemble it... The trick was he made an adaptor plate with 4 holes that match the bolt pattern on the rear of the rotor (red circles):

View attachment 75984View attachment 75985

He put 2 spacers between the aluminum body of the pump and the plate then just simply screwed in 4 x M5 bolts evenly. The rotor popped out without a problem. From there it was really simple. Front bearing is secured with circlip, I used vice to press it out, not much force is required. Here is a picture of the pump with removed rear part and the rear part itself, you can see the rear bearing still in place.

View attachment 75986View attachment 75987View attachment 75992

Vanes and rear bearing removed from it's carrier. This bearing turned out to be in perfect shape after ultrasonic bath but I replaced it anyway as it was dirt cheap.

View attachment 75988View attachment 75989

New front bearing (not secured with a circlip yet):

View attachment 75990View attachment 75991

To press the rotor in the new bearing and aluminum casting I used my friend hydraulic press, it was much easier, however I think it is fully doable with the vice. The top part of the rotor - I heated it up a little while the rotor spend few hours in the freezer - it drop in to almost full depth. The hydraulic press did the rest of the job. I still need to put it all together but I believe it shouldn't be a big problem.
I hope the above will help to those who want to rebuild their pump rather than disable it.

What was the thickness of the spacers he used?

 

[darek_u]

I'm not sure what spacers you are talking about?

 

[Seangbadee]

He put 2 spacers between the aluminum body of the pump and the plate then just simply screwed in 4 x M5 bolts evenly.

 

[Seangbadee]

I was referring to the spacers used in disassembly

 

[darek_u]

I don't remember... You can use whatever you have in hand - even 2 nuts will work for this. Just something between the plate and the pump casting so when bolts are turned there is a space for the rotor to come out.

 

[Seangbadee]

Thank you

 

[Seangbadee]

O

I don't remember... You can use whatever you have in hand - even 2 nuts will work for this. Just something between the plate and the pump casting so when bolts are turned there is a space for the rotor to come out.

I decided to pull my smog apart using your method and it was a breeze.
I have an issue figuring out where the solid washer should be placed. It came apart suddenly, however I know the lighter washers were at the base of the bearing.
Thanks for the guidance.

 

[darek_u]

You are talking about the washer on the right on your last photo? I need to check my photos but I don't remember the thick washer in my pump...

 

[Seangbadee]

Yes the thick one.
Thank you

 

[darek_u]

Here is my rotor assembled and ready to go back into the pump.



As you can see I don't have this washer. But I think the large disc that goes on top of the rotor have taller "neck" - maybe yours is different and needs this washer? I think your picture #3 shows the correct assembly sequence

 

[Seangbadee]

Here is my rotor assembled and ready to go back into the pump.

View attachment 95099

As you can see I don't have this washer. But I think the large disc that goes on top of the rotor have taller "neck" - maybe yours is different and needs this washer? I think your picture #3 shows the correct assembly sequence

I guess you're right.
The first picture is without the thick washer.

 

[Seangbadee]

Please tell me the best way to reassemble this pump.

 

[darek_u]

Just remember the 3 thin washers go as last, on top of thick one. Reassembly - well, I don't remember anything special, just reverse order? I mentioned in one of my posts about heating up top part

 

[Seangbadee]

Just remember the 3 thin washers go as last, on top of thick one. Reassembly - well, I don't remember anything special, just reverse order? I mentioned in one of my posts about heating up top part

I'll go back and read the post before I start reassembly.
The post was a blessing thank you.

 

[Seangbadee]

As promised I report back. I removed the pump without removing the bracket, however I had front light, cowl and SLS tank removed earlier on so it was piece of cake. I think it is possible to remove it without touching the bracket if SLS tank is moved away. Not emptied and removed from the car, just return pipe disconnected and tank moved aside from the bracket.
Now few words about the pump itself. It is a vane type pump, really simple design, it can be fully rebuild by DIYer. I'm just a step away from full rebuild and assembling it back, here are few tips for those who would like to fix theirs.
Pump has altogether 7 bearings:
pulley - widely described above, I'm not going to focus on this one
vanes - 4 pcs of J65 type bearings
shaft - front:6203 2RS type bearing, rear: SCE 188 type bearing
The one that fails most often (besides pulley) is the front shaft bearing. On both pumps I disassembled these bearings were shot. In addition dirt and small particles that make their way to the inside of the pump and get between graphite gaskets and housing are damaging both and making additional noise on top of the damaged bearings. The other bearings should be ok - I had to replace only one small vane bearing as it was little rusty. The other ones only needed new grease after ultrasonic bath in IPA.
The disassembly process is pretty straight forward until it gets to removing the rotor from the aluminum cast. As i don't have a hydraulic press I gave it to the shop that did quite a few things for me in the past. They pressed out the rotor but it was a mistake. The rotor has additional part on top that is pressed in, it won't go through the bearing that is secured with circlip. See below for more clarification:

View attachment 75983

The cylindrical part marked with arrow is pressed on the top of the rotor where the other arrow is. This is how it ends if you use brute force... See the ripped off cast around the bearing recess?

View attachment 75982

Luckily it was a spare pumps I got from my mechanic. The pump that I removed from my car I gave to a friend of mine that I fully trust. It took him 10 minutes to disassemble it... The trick was he made an adaptor plate with 4 holes that match the bolt pattern on the rear of the rotor (red circles):

View attachment 75984View attachment 75985

He put 2 spacers between the aluminum body of the pump and the plate then just simply screwed in 4 x M5 bolts evenly. The rotor popped out without a problem. From there it was really simple. Front bearing is secured with circlip, I used vice to press it out, not much force is required. Here is a picture of the pump with removed rear part and the rear part itself, you can see the rear bearing still in place.

View attachment 75986View attachment 75987View attachment 75992

Vanes and rear bearing removed from it's carrier. This bearing turned out to be in perfect shape after ultrasonic bath but I replaced it anyway as it was dirt cheap.

View attachment 75988View attachment 75989

New front bearing (not secured with a circlip yet):

View attachment 75990View attachment 75991

To press the rotor in the new bearing and aluminum casting I used my friend hydraulic press, it was much easier, however I think it is fully doable with the vice. The top part of the rotor - I heated it up a little while the rotor spend few hours in the freezer - it drop in to almost full depth. The hydraulic press did the rest of the job. I still need to put it all together but I believe it shouldn't be a big problem.
I hope the above will help to those who want to rebuild their pump rather than disable it.

This is a fantastic write-up.