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Fuel Pump Relay 0015428319

Unavita

E500E Guru
Member
Hello- I have been trying to source a new fuel pump relay and looking for information in finding the FPR for the M119 engines.
 

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The fuel pump relay for the W124 V8 models is a standard, fused 30A relay (usually green, sometimes silver). This relay almost never fails.

What is the problem with your relay? if clicking, that's the LH module causing the problem, not a faulty relay.

:detective:
 
I am chasing a problem and beginning there.

I still have a non-start issue. No clicking.

When the ignition is energized first thing in the morning the fuel gauge show proper fuel amount. If the gauge stays there the car will start- if it falls to zero it will not start.

I pulled both of the relays in the FPR area and checked for clicking, reinstalled it and the car started. When the car is warm is will not restart (anymore- it did for a couple of days and then back to this).

I am also aware that this may be the sending unit(s) or some other wiring gremlin. I did find a mouse nest in my engine compartment after the winter :(!

We discussed this previously and I believe the idea I had that it might be the ignition tumbler failing I was sure you eliminated that as an option.

I also have 3 working LH modules and the problem persists with each.

In one venue I read that some of the problems with the FPR actually begin with a failing alternator. I should remember to test the alternator the next time it decides to start.
 
The car has a brand new battery in it. I hooked it up to my charger and it read 11.7 so I set it to "engine start" and then turned the key to position 2 and everything lit up for a second like it should. The car did not start but the attempt drained the power and the fuel gauge fell from 1/2 to empty. The "mileage" indicator blips.

I checked the starter and the lower harness. All good. Upper harness is new.

I feel the best best is to check the alternator if it starts again. I know on the 126 and 107 cars the alternator may not go bad but the voltage regulator can wear out. It is much harder to diagnose on the W140 than the older cars because there is no room to get to the regulator without removing it completely.

I am hoping it is an alternator! Otherwise we are looking at chasing a breach in the wiring. But this is pulling amps...like a grounding issue and bad alternators can do that... IIRC.
 
IIRC, when I checked the VR on mine, the process screamed: replace the whole alternator with a reman unit and put a new VR in the one removed on the shelf for another time. That was a tough job If I remember it correctly.
 

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