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HOW-TO: Replacing 500E/E500 Brake Fluid

I was about to bleed the brakes but I was stopped right at the first step when the SP bleeder valve stripped, so I resorted to a bolt extractor which initially appeared to work until I realized that no fluid was coming out. Now I have a broken bleeder valve stuck inside the ASR unit. This car was originally a Florida car so it seems that almost every bolt that touches aluminum has corroded and welded itself in. I decided to abort the bleed job for the day and order a new bleeder. As for getting the old bleeder out, Im thinking Ill have to drill it and use a bolt extractor or easy-out. Any suggestions?

[EDIT]: The bleeder valve is $41.44! I think I may just forget about trying to replace this valve. It could turn into a bigger can of worms if I damage the threads of the ASR unit trying to drill the old valve out or, worse yet, contimate the ASR system with metal debris from drilling.
UGH! @emerydc8 did you finally find out a way to fix this? Do you have the part number to the ridiculously priced bleeder valve? [EDIT - 000-420-49-55 -- ABSURD pricing at $43!]
Even with a flare nut wrench, I rounded off this bleeder screw. $@%$@ - is this because of galvanic corrosion? ABS pump being aluminum and bleeder screw being steel?

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UGH! @emerydc8 did you finally find out a way to fix this? Do you have the part number to the ridiculously priced bleeder valve?
Even with a flare nut wrench, I rounded off this bleeder screw. $@%$@ - is this because of galvanic corrosion? ABS pump being aluminum and bleeder screw being steel?

View attachment 161691 View attachment 161689 View attachment 161690
@Jlaa, YEP! It’s probably never been bled in 30 years. I had the same problem on my 84-500SL on a caliper. I had to purchase a whole new steel brake line because I messed up the whole fitting.
 
I never did anything about it and at this point, balancing the risk-reward factor, I'll probably just leave it because I could create a real mess if I started drilling and the shavings got into the hydraulic system. I just checked and there is zero leaking. Of course, I will be interested to see what you do about yours! You are in a better position right now than me because you haven't yet broken off the bleeder valve inside the unit. Hopefully you get a 10 mm extractor and it all comes out in one piece.
 
Here's a video from FCP Yurro on how to use the Motive Power Bleeder. This is for non-ASR cars, so you will need to follow the HOW-TO instructions for E500E cars with ASR. But it's a nice, quick overview on operating the Motive unit itself.

 
Great write up here but for some reason my ABS/ASR SP valve has no fluid coming out of it.

1. ABS/ASR pump was removed and reinstalled after powder coating the bracket. All lines were removed

2. Reservoir removed and replaced

3. All 4 brake lines replaced, new calipers installed, brakes bled in proper order.

4. Turned car on and opened SP valve but no fluid is coming out.

Any ideas?

Brakes were bled using the 2 man method. No fancy tools here 😳
 
Port SP should release pressure built up by the ASR pump itself. My guess is, after the reservoir and pump R&R, you aren't getting fluid into the ASR unit from the little precharge pump below the reservoir.

I'm also not sure if you can properly bleed the system without a pressure bleeder, if you have removed/replaced either the reservoir or the ASR unit. The $60 for a Motive bleeder is money well spent...

:scratchchin:
 
Port SP should release pressure built up by the ASR pump itself. My guess is, after the reservoir and pump R&R, you aren't getting fluid into the ASR unit from the little precharge pump below the reservoir.

I'm also not sure if you can properly bleed the system without a pressure bleeder, if you have removed/replaced either the reservoir or the ASR unit. The $60 for a Motive bleeder is money well spent...

:scratchchin:
Thank you. I’ll try that

Was hoping to have the car ready for Cars and coffeee Mercedes day on Sunday but not looking likely now -___-
 
might as well shoot my shot, does anyone have a power bleeder that I can borrow for half a day in SoCal?

Better yet, spend the 20 extra bucks and get the "deluxe" European bleeder with the red aluminum cap, which makes things just a bit nicer (the basic black-cap bleeder is 100% functionally identical, just slight hassle when attaching the black cap to the brake fluid reservoir).
 
I was able to get a little bit of fluid out so the SP isn’t broken off. Pressure bleeder coming in tomorrow and will hopefully do the trick.

It could be the SP bleeder valve broke off inside the ABS/ASR unit. The external part of the bleeder valve will still turn but no fluid will come out. This has happened to at least two members here. Can you completely remove the valve?
 
Just bought this from Uncle Kent. Will let you know how it works. $58.75:

Pressure Brake Bleeder

Will work on all Mercedes from 1968 to 1995 - Also select 1960's models and most later chassis up to 2006 see list below. 25-minute video instructions are now included. Our pressure bleeder is modified and put together here in our shop. We take a specialized pump sprayer and add a reliable pressure gauge and a modified cap that will screw on the top of your master cylinder reservoir.

Please buy a Motive or other bleeder. This one started leaking after five or six fluid changes.

I ended up buying a Speedy Bleed.
 
Yep, I had to replace the master brake cylinder today, and Speedy Bleed is the bomb!

You can open the exact pressure you want on the system up to 30psi. using tire pressure. The tire only looses a few pounds for the entire procedure.

I used 27psi. and followed Gerry's "how to change brake fluid" instructions.
 
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