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OWNER Prometey (E320)

Got an original set tools for a Mercedes 124.

Although they are available to order new, but in blue handbags. I wanted a fetish identity.

There is not enough stud for mounting the wheels and I would also like a flat screwdriver.
I would be grateful for the numbers.
 

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On the acquisition of yellow caps in the fog lights of the headlights, I began to ask questions about the headlights.

To begin with, there are new Depo headlights on the car. Excellent condition, but Depo.

As I understood, the yellow caps will be installed without the collective farm only in Bosch reflectors.

Question 1: Will Bosch reflectors fit into Depo headlights?

If it does not, then it becomes necessary to purchase restyled Bosch or AL headlights. But…

My car does not have a headlight vacuum adjustment regulator, which means that the headlights, in theory, should be automatically adjusted.

In this regard, Question 2: Are the headlights for cars with a regulator located near the headlight switch different or not?

I would be grateful for explanations on the operation of headlights in various versions, in order to purchase the "correct" headlights, to install yellow caps without a collective farm.

Thanks to!
 

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I think those yellow glass caps were only used on Bosch USA DOT fog reflectors. I've never seen them used in Euro headlights (either Bosch or Hella).

I believe all cars with range regulator (vacuum level adjustment) use "Euro" style headlights. This should have been all countries worldwide except North America (USA/Canada/Mexico). North America headlights do not have the range adjuster next to the headlight switch AND have different headlights without vacuum adjustment.

I don't think any "Euro" lights had yellow caps for the fogs. Euro lights with amber lights (code 610, 612, 613, etc) had amber/yellow coated REFLECTORS instead, per SA 56546:


1631023067519.png

1631023007204.png
 
I believe all cars with range regulator (vacuum level adjustment) use "Euro" style headlights. This should have been all countries worldwide except North America (USA/Canada/Mexico). North America headlights do not have the range adjuster next to the headlight switch AND have different headlights without vacuum adjustment.
So I only need to search for headlights from an American car?
 
Want Bosch for W124 USA 1995
Facelift 124's in USA (model years 1994-95) did not have yellow fogs.

The yellow globe shown in your photo in post #52 was only used on pre-facelift USA headlights, 1986-1993 model years.

If you want to modify facelift headlights to have yellow fogs, you either need yellow bulbs, or the yellow reflectors shown in the EPC in post #53 above. This would not be original USA spec though.

1631366361258.png 1631366384875.png
 
yes, I know it. want to implement pre-1993 yellow headlight caps in headlights 1993+
Understood. However I don't know if that can be done. The reflector is different on 86-93 and has a "spring clip" retainer for the globe. I don't know if this can be retrofitted to 94-95 headlights.

The "factory" way to do this is getting the yellow reflectors for 94-95. If that's not possible, I'd get yellow bulbs...

:5150:
 
I bought Bosch headlights on eBay to install yellow caps on the fog reflectors, and bring the optics back to the original.

The headlights are taken from the American version of the convertible.

Unfortunately, the headlight mount was broken during shipping. I think I'm wondering now how to make the mount.
 

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I have installed those same fog light yellow globes in 2 pairs of FL Bosch headlight units.
Trivial job, no cutting, drilling, welding, or swearing…
Only potential issue is slightly different shade of yellow compared to the scant yellow of the standard FL corner lights.
 
Unfortunately, the headlight mount was broken during shipping. I think I'm wondering now how to make the mount.
Do you have a plastic welding workshop around? They usually weld bumpers, but that works as well for other plastic parts. A crafty worker should make it. Of course it will be visible that something has been done, but shouldn't hurt much.
Alternatively - buy a good, strong epoxy glue and it will do its job as well.
 
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Do you have a plastic welding workshop around? They usually weld bumpers, but that works as well for other plastic parts. A crafty worker should make it. Of course it will be visible that something has been done, but shouldn't hurt much.
Alternatively - buy a good, strong epoxy glue and it will do its job as well.
Thank you
 
Do you have a plastic welding workshop around? They usually weld bumpers, but that works as well for other plastic parts. A crafty worker should make it. Of course it will be visible that something has been done, but shouldn't hurt much.
Alternatively - buy a good, strong epoxy glue and it will do its job as well.
I will try to install in the near future
 
Since the purchase of the car, the “D” Drive gear has not been correctly engaged.

It consists in the fact that when the position of the automatic transmission handle is set to the Drive position, the transmission does not turn on. To turn it on, you need to bring the automatic transmission handle slightly towards yourself and return it to the Drive position.

Tell me what could be the reason for this behavior of the automatic transmission.

Thanks to.

 
Since the purchase of the car, the “D” Drive gear has not been correctly engaged.

It consists in the fact that when the position of the automatic transmission handle is set to the Drive position, the transmission does not turn on. To turn it on, you need to bring the automatic transmission handle slightly towards yourself and return it to the Drive position.

Tell me what could be the reason for this behavior of the automatic transmission.

Thanks to.

Check the shifter bushings below the car. There is a mechanic rod which connects the lever to the transmission. It is common on ageing w124s for the bushings to get so worn that one or both can break apart/ fall out.

Solution is to go in there and fit 2no new bushings from MB and also double check condition of transmission mount before re-adjusting the shifter rod so it is precisely set again.

Lots of info on here just search.
 
Проверьте втулки переключателя под автомобилем. Есть механический стержень, который соединяет рычаг с трансмиссией. При старении w124 часто втулки изнашиваются настолько, что одна или обе могут сломаться / выпасть.

Решение состоит в том, чтобы войти туда и установить 2 новых втулки от MB, а также дважды проверить состояние опоры трансмиссии перед повторной регулировкой штока переключения, чтобы она снова была точно отрегулирована.

Здесь много информации, просто ищите.
Тhank you!
 
The previous owner also retained a bunch of keys with an auction tag in the United States, which came with the purchase of the car.
 

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Installed pad on pedals AMG style.
 

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No original
 

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Installed gear knob with wood zebrano.
 

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installed a set of illumination of the selected gear of the gear knob
 

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Button mounts installed, buttons plugged in and secured.

Since the set of heating is not native, the work is non-standard. It turns on and off simply by pressing a button, while in the on state both lights are on.
 

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I removed the gas control panel to the internal compartment. We connected everything to the gas button. Since there is only one button in my remote control, the principle of operation is slightly different from that of the factory.

When the car starts up, the gas arrow flashes during warming up. When working on gas, the gas arrow is on. When running on petrol, no indicator lights up.
 

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Hello Prometey,
:) ... a brief background, I experienced having the dreaded "white spots" on my R129's instrument cluster 2 years ago. Rather than experiment removing the front plastic cover and repaint, I decided to buy the upgraded R129 Silver Arrow instrument cluster and a new housing. Pictures attached below. 😁 I was very happy with the result, but not my wallet.

Now for my question, if you noticed the last 2 pictures attached, the shift gate on the console box has a similar design of the R129 Silver Arrow instrument cluster fascia. Would you be able to make something similar? Btw, my transmission is a 722.353, so hopefully the shift gate pattern can be copied.

Thank you in advance
 

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Hello Prometey,
:) ... a brief background, I experienced having the dreaded "white spots" on my R129's instrument cluster 2 years ago. Rather than experiment removing the front plastic cover and repaint, I decided to buy the upgraded R129 Silver Arrow instrument cluster and a new housing. Pictures attached below. 😁 I was very happy with the result, but not my wallet.

Now for my question, if you noticed the last 2 pictures attached, the shift gate on the console box has a similar design of the R129 Silver Arrow instrument cluster fascia. Would you be able to make something similar? Btw, my transmission is a 722.353, so hopefully the shift gate pattern can be copied.

Thank you in advance
Hello.
I didn't understand which part you want to do
 
Hello.
I didn't understand which part you want to do
good morning from Manila Prometey :)

If you look at the last 2 pictures of my post , the shift gate pattern has a "machined like knurling" instead of the "plain black plate" of the standard shifter gate (please refer to the attached picture). If any of our forum members can help me, by modifying the attached 1st picture by placing a "red arrow" to show the "plain black plate for the shifter gate" ... as I am not savy enough :cry: with regards to editing pictures.

Please pardon me for the small picture details on the 2nd and 3rd attached pictures below. On the 4th and 5th pictures the quality is very poor as I requested the photo company to "blow up" the picture and it was getting pixelized. Please note that I am not referring to the "chrome surround" of the shifter gate, but to the (shift gate "knurled pattern" plate.

I hope that I was able to clarify "which part I want".

Regards

PS: gsxr and Terry A, I hope you can help me out in trying to make Prometey understand what I am referring to in my pictures
 

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good morning from Manila Prometey :)

If you look at the last 2 pictures of my post , the shift gate pattern has a "machined like knurling" instead of the "plain black plate" of the standard shifter gate (please refer to the attached picture). If any of our forum members can help me, by modifying the attached 1st picture by placing a "red arrow" to show the "plain black plate for the shifter gate" ... as I am not savy enough :cry: with regards to editing pictures.

Please pardon me for the small picture details on the 2nd and 3rd attached pictures below. On the 4th and 5th pictures the quality is very poor as I requested the photo company to "blow up" the picture and it was getting pixelized. Please note that I am not referring to the "chrome surround" of the shifter gate, but to the (shift gate "knurled pattern" plate.

I hope that I was able to clarify "which part I want".

Regards

PS: gsxr and Terry A, I hope you can help me out in trying to make Prometey understand what I am referring to in my pictures
This part from metall with texture like in dashboard?
 

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Yes, I believe so. This is commonly referred to as "machine turning". It looks fantastic in the SA interior.
I can make such a product, but I'm afraid it will be expensive. need to experiment with the texture. and I will need a vector file so that I can make the shape correctly. I have a template for the dashboard, but not for the gearbox lining.
 
@Prometey, I think chicky wants you to duplicate the knurled shifter plate? I’m not sure for what application.

@chicky, What do you want it for?
First of gentlemen, I would like to apologize to everyone as I just got my PC (very new) back from the service shop as it was very slow logging in.

Thank you TerryA for your help. I plan to use the "knurled shifter plate" for my R129.066/M119.960 SL500.
 
I can make such a product, but I'm afraid it will be expensive. need to experiment with the texture. and I will need a vector file so that I can make the shape correctly. I have a template for the dashboard, but not for the gearbox lining.
Hello again Prometey,

Would you have an indicative price? You may also send it to me via PM.

Best regards
 
100-200$ to make the first copy
Hello Prometey,

Thank you for the price quote ... I find it "interesting". I hope it does not go beyond the US$200 as I have to include shipping prices.

My transmission is a 722.353. I presume that the shifter plate that you will make is of the same thickness as the original MB 722.353 shifter plate.

I will await your "near accurate price quotation".

Happy New Year in advance.
 
Hello Prometey,

Thank you for the price quote ... I find it "interesting". I hope it does not go beyond the US$200 as I have to include shipping prices.

My transmission is a 722.353. I presume that the shifter plate that you will make is of the same thickness as the original MB 722.353 shifter plate.

I will await your "near accurate price quotation".

Happy New Year in advance.
I cannot indicate the exact cost now, the price includes the work of a designer, special cutters and other works. at the moment I do not have time to experiment for the sake of one product, there are a lot of orders. But I will keep in mind. Thanks for understanding.

Happy New Year😉
 
I don't like the silver color of the car. Interestingly, your opinion, is it worth repainting the car in a different color or keeping the original one?
 
I cannot indicate the exact cost now, the price includes the work of a designer, special cutters and other works. at the moment I do not have time to experiment for the sake of one product, there are a lot of orders. But I will keep in mind. Thanks for understanding.

Happy New Year😉
Hello Prometey,

I do understand your business point of view.
🥲
 
I don't like the silver color of the car. Interestingly, your opinion, is it worth repainting the car in a different color or keeping the original one?
If the question was meant for me ... my reply would be "different strokes for different folks".

As for me, since I bought my R129066 used (Japan version), it came in "pearl blue metallic", I had the car completely dis-assembled :eek:, ordered a lot of parts (imagine an Isuzu Elf NPR dropside 16foot bed filled with parts that the MB dealership took 2 days to inventory the parts). Had the car (interior and exterior) resprayed with 744 Brilliant Silver.

All of these, since I have no plans of selling the car ever 😜
 
slightly darkened with varnish. the steering wheel is leather-wrapped. interested in your opinion: to make the code perforated or normal without perforation?
 

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