rear door panel- help

[samiam44]

Ok guys,


I don't seem to struggle with the fronts. Window regulator broke and I had to replace it. I was able to successfully remove it. It was difficult and there were no signs that it's ever been off. The arm rest center tab which grabs the door. Any help hints, tricks in getting this back on? Removal I kinda tilted the front to get it out- and lots of bowing in the center to release the tabs behind the arm rest which retain the door panel.


Michael

 

[JC220]

Yes they are tricky – just be careful not to break any of the plastic tabs off behind. The best thing to do is roll the window down fully to get more room at the top. Then carefully place the card over the door – (about 1.5 -2 inches higher than the final position of the door card) ensuring all tabs are correctly located and the door locking pin is in the correct place. And press down / inwards fully home.

 

[gsxr]

If the panel has never been removed, or only removed a couple times, they can be very difficult to R&R. Buy the extra-large can of patience for this job... you don't wanna break any of the plastic hooks. Usually takes me several tries when installing to get ALL the hooks properly seated.

 

[samiam44]

Thanks guys-

Do need a little patience. Never broken a tab off yet. But I get frustrated trying to get tabs to seat, the top to grab and magically go over the inside door handle. This is one area that the W211-W212's are so much easier.


Do you guys power wash the inside of the door prior to reasembly?

 

[gsxr]

I don't wash anything inside the door, just lubricate the front window mechanism and check the plastic slider that always breaks (front only). And tighten all the 10mm nuts for the door check, and window regulators... these can loosen over time.

Edit: Also, make sure the plastic vapor barrier is present, intact, and glued in place. Replace / repair / attach as necessary.

 

[gerryvz]

If there is the thin plastic moisture-barrier film attached to the inside of the door, I'd think that the inside of the door shouldn't be very dirty. The main thing any time a door skin is off, is to make sure that everything is well lubed, wiring integrity is intact, and no teeth or sliding pads are broken.

 

[samiam44]

I was talking inside the door-where the glass drops. Bottom 1/4 looks pretty scrungy. I'm guessing maybe some dust/dirt/sand on top of some wax sealant for the seams? I was going to pressure wash it just to get any loosenses which would retain water.

All the guide clips are dripping with lube and all are there. The wiring to the motor I used some teva tape to deaden any movement/noise which would be possible.

Michael

 

[samiam44]

Should I be removing, cleaning and greasing the check strap? I found a 10# can of shell aviation grease which seems to be a good match for door regulators and such. Has the correct consistency.

 

[gsxr]

Should I be removing, cleaning and greasing the check strap? I found a 10# can of shell aviation grease which seems to be a good match for door regulators and such. Has the correct consistency.

While you're in there... it's not a bad idea to R&R and clean the check strap. If you want to move it through each position out of the car, a heavy bench vise is helpful.

 

[gerryvz]

Lubing door check straps are a good preventative measure when the door skin is off. If yours are sticky or noisy, then DEFINITELY it's incremental labor to remove and lube it. I actually did a HOW-TO on this, although it was for a front door, not a rear door.

Also, to properly lubricate a door check strap, it MUST be removed from the car. It cannot be properly lubricated/serviced in situ.

HOW-TO is here: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7133

If it's too far gone then replace it (although the rear doors don't get the use that fronts do). Check straps are not horribly expensive, even from MB. The only problem with the replacements, is that the check strap arms are not painted (shiny metal) and obviously this does not go with the "painted" factory check straps, so to be correct the arms have to be painted -- an incremental/extra step for those replacing their straps.

I keep 2-3 new straps as part of my parts stash, although I've never needed to actually REPLACE one. They can go for a long time (noisy/sticky) without having to be replaced, but they do reach a point in time, a long time with no lube, where they stick and will not close. Generally you have a LOT of warning time before this happens, though.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[500AMM]

Ok guys,


I don't seem to struggle with the fronts. Window regulator broke and I had to replace it. I was able to successfully remove it. It was difficult and there were no signs that it's ever been off. The arm rest center tab which grabs the door. Any help hints, tricks in getting this back on? Removal I kinda tilted the front to get it out- and lots of bowing in the center to release the tabs behind the arm rest which retain the door panel.

Michael

I guess you're done now, but doesn't the centre tab/hook behind the arm rest engage in its slot before none of the other tabs? Supposed the technique Joe described is followed.

 

[r44raven]

My best advice when refitting any door card, is to get hold of an extra pair of hands! They don't need to be experts in E500E's - the requirement is a bit of muscle power! (Plus, as gsxr says, you need a load of extra patience).

I've found extra hands invaluable to push/shove in the right place, to make sure all those plastic hooks get properly fixed. It can be a nightmare to get all but one seated, and then have to remove the whole door card and start the process all over again!

Stephen

 

[tewfiks]

Hello all. I have an inoperable left rear window that need investigating. I have removed all the bits and pieces and now have only the panel to remove, I think. Is this just a matter of pulling straight upwards? I don't feel ANY give as I apply upward pressure.

 

[gsxr]

Hello all. I have an inoperable left rear window that need investigating. I have removed all the bits and pieces and now have only the panel to remove, I think. Is this just a matter of pulling straight upwards? I don't feel ANY give as I apply upward pressure.

Yes, with everything else removed, it slides upward. The top edge can be difficult to pop loose. DO NOT pry outward at all, anywhere.

 

[sheward]

The top edge of the panel is held with metal clips that bite into the inner door itself and sometimes requires some pressure to release. Make sure to keep the top 3 inches of the panel from bending toward you too much by using your palm to firmly "punch" upwards there. This is always the area that puts up a fight. You may also find one or more of the clips (i think there are 4) comes loose from either the panel or the door and falls down inside the door. Easy to retrieve.

 

[LWB250]

Along with the other suggestions, whenever I'm in a door I always peel the bottom edge of the moisture barrier up a bit and have a look with a flashlight before vacuuming out the door bottom. There are drains in the pinch weld of the door bottom that can be easily clogged by accumulated detritus that gets in over the years. If the drains get clogged you'll have rust in the area and often won't know it until it starts to show through the paint.

I use good old rubber cement to re-glue the moisture barrier. It's cheap, easy to work with, and allows future removal while keeping the plastic sheet anchored.

Dan