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OWNER Rouven036
- Thread starter Rouven036
- Start date
Wasn't so happy with the underbody cleanliness, especially above the rear axle. The first owner had the car sprayed with extensive preservation wax from beneath, it's great to protect the car over the years when driving the car in winter and rain, the down side is that it will collect dirt like a magnet. So I decided to clean it up bit by bit over the next few months or whenever I find time to work on it. Anyhow doesn't drive it in winter and rain anymore.
Also while on it, replaced several parts, like prop shaft bearing, prop shaft center boot, cleaned and lubricated side brake mechanism, replaced sls lines between spheres and dampers,replaced fuel feed line to the pumps and breather/return hoses, replaced sls torsion bar u-bolt-bracket and strut, changed the diff oil with the Motul lsd diff oil (without friction modifiers suitable for the Wavetrac diff lock), cleaned the springs and damper struts etc.
Some more photos will follow, for now just one after dropping the axle once again and another one whilst working on it. Axles are basically new so nothing to do there in particular.
Also while on it, replaced several parts, like prop shaft bearing, prop shaft center boot, cleaned and lubricated side brake mechanism, replaced sls lines between spheres and dampers,replaced fuel feed line to the pumps and breather/return hoses, replaced sls torsion bar u-bolt-bracket and strut, changed the diff oil with the Motul lsd diff oil (without friction modifiers suitable for the Wavetrac diff lock), cleaned the springs and damper struts etc.
Some more photos will follow, for now just one after dropping the axle once again and another one whilst working on it. Axles are basically new so nothing to do there in particular.
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I had just remembered this but have not yet all measurements and the code numbers noted. However the intake cam measurements of my engine are:
Base circle 37.1mm
Lobe height 47.2mm
Lift = 10.1mm
Exhaust cam and both codes not checked. Will check this in about 2 weeks.
Awesome - thank you! Related question: Are the cam sprockets adjustable (slotted), or are they standard sprockets? I'm pretty sure they are standard on the .97x/.98x, but never have had my hands on a genuine AMG motor to see firsthand. Think only the tall-deck .960 had the adjustable/slotted setup.
Took the 500E to go for a short vacation and just on the way home I had a chance to give the whole setup a trial for top speed. Remember, the car has a 2.65 diff, top speed governor removed, and still the slightly tweaked stock 5L (repair size 1 pistons, polished heads, ported intake and exhaust manifold, HJS 200cpi cats. Tire size is 245/40R18 on the 18"x 8" M800's, speedo is a original 300km/h AMG unit for the 2.65 diff. As the calculation goes it should be 269km/h @ 6000rpm. Car pulls into rev limiter @ 6300 and bounces back to slightly above 6000. It should be 278km/h @ 6300.
Here is a picture at 270:
Further I can say that the E60 bar makes a big difference in body roll as well as the heavy M800 make the ride a bit more uncomfortable.
Here is a picture at 270:
Further I can say that the E60 bar makes a big difference in body roll as well as the heavy M800 make the ride a bit more uncomfortable.
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I have no GPS readings however as per the calculation it should be quite accurate also the speedo setting is pretty much spot on. Don't know if a drift box or the like still up to date or is there any suitable mobile app available? Any recommendations?
Some further side notes after the almost 2000km round trip (car was parked almost 11 years):
- oil changed prior the trip, filled in 8L - no consumption noticeable on the dip stick
- I was a bit hesitant to take the car for the trip due to any issues coming up and eventually getting stranded on the way (for example a leaking water pump from a corroded shaft due to long parking time) but all good, no signs of leakages anywhere (any fluids). However coolant needs replacement these days due to the age
- brakes are really good but the amg pads develop ALOT of dust, even the rear wheels get a really good tint from the brake dust
- high speed losses: burnt the inner reinforcement edge of the rear bumper near the exhaust tips a little bit, in cold conditions the tips are about 6-7cm away! The fog light access hole in the left fender liner popped open but nothing damaged just needed to be pushed back in the lock. My bonnet is already pre- tensioned but at speeds over 240ish the front outer edges lift off about 1cm . That felt not so good, have to look at this again.
- I wish to have a oil temp gauge
- noticed that the AC in low speeds and traffic jam got weak and engine temp going beyond 100 degrees Celsius. Found during the overall inspection this afternoon, that the upper wire on the Fan resistor is somehow corroded off or something. Have to get a new resistor and cable shoe at least (will remove the left head light and post some photos later on here). Fan fuse is all good.
- e500e's are overall awesome cars (I guess the most of you know already
)
Some further side notes after the almost 2000km round trip (car was parked almost 11 years):
- oil changed prior the trip, filled in 8L - no consumption noticeable on the dip stick
- I was a bit hesitant to take the car for the trip due to any issues coming up and eventually getting stranded on the way (for example a leaking water pump from a corroded shaft due to long parking time) but all good, no signs of leakages anywhere (any fluids). However coolant needs replacement these days due to the age
- brakes are really good but the amg pads develop ALOT of dust, even the rear wheels get a really good tint from the brake dust
- high speed losses: burnt the inner reinforcement edge of the rear bumper near the exhaust tips a little bit, in cold conditions the tips are about 6-7cm away! The fog light access hole in the left fender liner popped open but nothing damaged just needed to be pushed back in the lock. My bonnet is already pre- tensioned but at speeds over 240ish the front outer edges lift off about 1cm . That felt not so good, have to look at this again.
- I wish to have a oil temp gauge
- noticed that the AC in low speeds and traffic jam got weak and engine temp going beyond 100 degrees Celsius. Found during the overall inspection this afternoon, that the upper wire on the Fan resistor is somehow corroded off or something. Have to get a new resistor and cable shoe at least (will remove the left head light and post some photos later on here). Fan fuse is all good.
- e500e's are overall awesome cars (I guess the most of you know already
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Careful from that bonnet, the 124036 bonnet lock mechanism is a weak point at +270km/h.
The first owner of my Brabus 6.5 had the lock area reinforced, he also wired the blinkers after one of them flew off and scuffed the fender.
No one in this world had fun with a 124036 like he did
Yes, the dashboard, center console etc is covered in leather or leather/Alcantara mix.
Careful from that bonnet, the 124036 bonnet lock mechanism is a weak point at +270km/h.
The first owner of my Brabus 6.5 had the lock area reinforced, he also wired the blinkers after one of them flew off and scuffed the fender.
No one in this world had fun with a 124036 like he did
Hi Ahmad! Yes indeed, the indicators are a known high speed issue of the W124. Two scenarios can happen: loosing the lens only or the whole indicator. I have new indicators and made sure the edge where the clip sits is in perfect condition as well while pushing the indicator in, make 100% sure it clips in position well. I lost once a white indicator years ago never ever since.
I really feel the need for a 2nd bonnet lock as in the newer cars. However will play with the adjustment a bit more and see what I will get. Also did MB safe a bit of money while not making a reinforced bonnet for the 034/036 cars like you can find in the W201 6 cylinder and 16V cars. It's not only the front outer edges getting pulled up but also the center area of the bonnet wobbles around, right there were the W201 m103/16V bonnets have the additional longitudinal reinforcement struts.
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Hello Rouven, I am curious to know if the engine was “broken in” at constant low speed say 80-100 km/hr after you did your repair 1 size on the cylinder?
I may be wrong, but I remember from my high school days the Auto class teacher used to say that it’s not recommended to drive at max speeds after engine rebuild.
But I am sure you did some “normal” driving before you hit 275/hr.
If the car had the original 16” rims it would have gone more than 275/hr [emoji3].
Must have been exciting to feel the torque [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I may be wrong, but I remember from my high school days the Auto class teacher used to say that it’s not recommended to drive at max speeds after engine rebuild.
But I am sure you did some “normal” driving before you hit 275/hr.
If the car had the original 16” rims it would have gone more than 275/hr [emoji3].
Must have been exciting to feel the torque [emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yes sure. The engine had covered in 2007 something like 1200km to 1500km of normal driving. On top comes some maybe total of 150km - 200km driving around before the trip and the approx 1000km on the way to our destination where I drove max to 4000 rpm. So there was sufficient brake in period.
Replaced the auxiliary fan pre-resistor and upper cable shoe. The original able shoe was corroded off and due to the excessive resistance the wire got also overheated the first 3cm or so. The cable is long enough to shorten it. Used two individual cable shoes instead, crimped and soldered. That will be a interim solution until the new body side engine wiring harness goes into the car together with the 6L engine. I would highly recommend to check this area and ensure that the contact surfaces are clean and the terminals are properly tightened. Along with this I also replaced the rear distributor caps [insulators] due to a sporadic idle misfire once the engine was hot.
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Just for completeness of my owners thread, stated the installation in a separate thread already.
Have installed the air guide panels situated on the inner sides of the head lights. They have not been there in my car and I m not really sure if these cars came with these installed. Found them while browsing the EPC and found them valid for the 036. So ordered them along the required clips and installed them.
Parts: 1x A1246281907, 1x A1246282007, 6x 2019900192
If the panels are not in place, air will flow from in front of the radiator package to the engine air intake housings. The plates will block this path mostly. Theoretically more air flows (maybe with a better flow) to the radiators. In my case combustion air is entering anyways through the lower head light panels air intakes.
Further found also two rubber seals which are sitting on the lower front edge of the air intake housings. This is the edge which sits tucked under the front bumper. Have to install these too.
My aim is to get the air flowing around and through the front end as it was designed with the target to reduce the lift effect on the bonnet front outer edges on high speeds.
All seals around the head lights and on the bonnet are in place and new.
Have installed the air guide panels situated on the inner sides of the head lights. They have not been there in my car and I m not really sure if these cars came with these installed. Found them while browsing the EPC and found them valid for the 036. So ordered them along the required clips and installed them.
Parts: 1x A1246281907, 1x A1246282007, 6x 2019900192
If the panels are not in place, air will flow from in front of the radiator package to the engine air intake housings. The plates will block this path mostly. Theoretically more air flows (maybe with a better flow) to the radiators. In my case combustion air is entering anyways through the lower head light panels air intakes.
Further found also two rubber seals which are sitting on the lower front edge of the air intake housings. This is the edge which sits tucked under the front bumper. Have to install these too.
My aim is to get the air flowing around and through the front end as it was designed with the target to reduce the lift effect on the bonnet front outer edges on high speeds.
All seals around the head lights and on the bonnet are in place and new.
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Another project currently is a further tweak of the 2.5-16 M102990 engine which I reconditioned about 2 1/2 years ago. As in one of the earlier posts mentioned I ordered a set of special pistons to raise compression from 9.7:1 to 10.5:1 in addition I requested to make them lighter than stock but still being durable and providing proper guidance in the cylinders with similar to stock length skirts. Further ordered a set of custom forged rods, capable of higher rpm. The car will get a full set of Evo2 controllers (EZL, CIS-E cu and FPR) and will then rev up to 7700 rpm. Saved in total almost 1kg of rotational mass in the crank assembly. Pistons are repair size 1 diameter (96mm). Also retrofitted oil jets for piston cooling.
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Also getting a supercharger upgrade from a v1 s-trim to a v7-ysi on the w123 done including a relocation of the formerly prominent under the front bumper located oil and low temperature circuit coolers. Those will be installed behind a amg front spoiler.
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Completed the heat exchanger relocation on the W123. The piping for the low temperature circuit heat exchanger and igger trans cooler is still to be done but that's not a big deal as well as the relocation of the right side horn.
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Bumper got painted. Put it for satisfactory reasons straight on the car. Has to be removed once again for installation of the coolers and other small things like painting the air ducts black from the inside. Love the outcome.
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Oops I did it again... Or better said I was actually forced to adopt a late (Dec '96) 722.6 equipped W202 C36 AMG. More details later.
On the other side I send the W123 out to get a decent window tint (20%) all around except windshield and a full polish with paint protection sticker applied. Also here further updates later.
On the other side I send the W123 out to get a decent window tint (20%) all around except windshield and a full polish with paint protection sticker applied. Also here further updates later.
Thx Gerry and lol!
Just some updates here. 19% M119 related... I utilize some different MB and also M119 belt drive components on my M117 supercharger and accessories belt-drive. Due to the bigger V7 YSI charger I installed in the summer, I had to tighten up the 8 rib belt a bit further which then was not so much liked by the early type M119 belt tensioner. Anyway got the thing used from a parts harvest few years ago and always suspected it to fail and finally it did as expected... As loyal as my car is, it did happen only in the drive way when starting the car and the belt squeaking like crazy. While removing, I found it was a non original item with no clear branding visible to me. So replaced it today. Of course only original MB only. Might work out something to support the tensioning by support of a valve spring aperature pressing on the arm.
Also installed a set of 130W rallye lights (also available in the same way back in the days from amg and in general period correct and fully reversible) to the front end on the Super-saloon. To be even more correct, I have some cibie, Hella and Bosch classic cover in the making by a friend who is a pro in such stuff. Also playing the thought to tint the lenses yellow - as the yellow fogs of the French headlights are anyway.
Also installed a set of 130W rallye lights (also available in the same way back in the days from amg and in general period correct and fully reversible) to the front end on the Super-saloon. To be even more correct, I have some cibie, Hella and Bosch classic cover in the making by a friend who is a pro in such stuff. Also playing the thought to tint the lenses yellow - as the yellow fogs of the French headlights are anyway.
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Working on the station wagon since a few weeks. It has turned into a full madness project - again. Here a few pics:
Level valve, before and after (new internals)
Clean your engine bay with paint remover they said, it will be fun they said!
All axle stuff gets redone along with the rare and nice brakes
The BBS wheels must make space for my personal favorites on the 123 chassis: Staggered set of 7" and 9" x 16" Rial Type N aka Mesh rims:
The body shell lost some weight everything else too:
The block gets a bit bigger pistons:
All V8 123s by AMG had up to my knowledge cast iron manifolds except the currently auctioned black wagon (I know the red Coupe, another wagon and 2 saloon, one of the saloon was a manual trans equipped car). The headers in the black wagon have a bit strange design fault in regards to the firing order (merging cylinder 1 with 2 and 3 with 4). However it must be 1 with 3 and 2 with 4. So dumped the cast ones and got it right.
Will keep some updates coming in.
Level valve, before and after (new internals)
Clean your engine bay with paint remover they said, it will be fun they said!
All axle stuff gets redone along with the rare and nice brakes
The BBS wheels must make space for my personal favorites on the 123 chassis: Staggered set of 7" and 9" x 16" Rial Type N aka Mesh rims:
The body shell lost some weight everything else too:
The block gets a bit bigger pistons:
All V8 123s by AMG had up to my knowledge cast iron manifolds except the currently auctioned black wagon (I know the red Coupe, another wagon and 2 saloon, one of the saloon was a manual trans equipped car). The headers in the black wagon have a bit strange design fault in regards to the firing order (merging cylinder 1 with 2 and 3 with 4). However it must be 1 with 3 and 2 with 4. So dumped the cast ones and got it right.
Will keep some updates coming in.
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Some more progress on the M117 6L high compression K-Jet engine of the station wagon. Prior boring the cylinders got a stress plate made to ensure proper round cylinders during operation later on and also got all heab bolt threads bored out and reinforced the construction with heli-coils. A known soft spot in the M117. Took this best practice over from the M119. Then the stress plates were mounted and boring, honing and lapping was performed. Now cylinders are done, next is the installation of oil cooling jets for the pistons. Still figuring out what rods to get and then have to ship the crank abroad for balancing.
Another project is possibly on it's way. Nothing completely new just an evolution. Run across a original M117 twin turbo kit. So playing with the thought to replace the supercharger by twin turbos in my W123 saloon. However i would implement some further upgrades besides new and more capable turbos of the latest design other things like engine relocation (further back to make room for the 850W brushless radiator fan of an SLS AMG, transmission upgrade, 4 arm prop shaft etc. at the same time which might be too big as a side project at least for now since the station wagon is number one car project.
Another project is possibly on it's way. Nothing completely new just an evolution. Run across a original M117 twin turbo kit. So playing with the thought to replace the supercharger by twin turbos in my W123 saloon. However i would implement some further upgrades besides new and more capable turbos of the latest design other things like engine relocation (further back to make room for the 850W brushless radiator fan of an SLS AMG, transmission upgrade, 4 arm prop shaft etc. at the same time which might be too big as a side project at least for now since the station wagon is number one car project.
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#FirstWorldProblem
What material are the key rings made of? Did you have them custom made or can they be ordered online? They are very nice!
Indeed!
They are made out of carbon fiber in glossy or matt finish (I choose matt). On the backside I let them engrave them with my name.
Some of them have been available like the evos and 16v, the 500E, C36 and sl bs was a special order. However they have been made with no extra charge (same prices as the others in the webshop) and I think they will be easily reproducible. I ordered the ones available through the webshop. For the special orders, the guy send me an seperate bill and then they got made. Worked all super easy. Communication happened through Instagram direct message.
They are made out of carbon fiber in glossy or matt finish (I choose matt). On the backside I let them engrave them with my name.
Some of them have been available like the evos and 16v, the 500E, C36 and sl bs was a special order. However they have been made with no extra charge (same prices as the others in the webshop) and I think they will be easily reproducible. I ordered the ones available through the webshop. For the special orders, the guy send me an seperate bill and then they got made. Worked all super easy. Communication happened through Instagram direct message.
Just completed the most of the front axle restoration of the station wagon. New shocks and stainless braided brake lines are missing still. Up next is the reconditioning of the anti squat rear axle trailing arms.
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After completing the front axle, I have started working on the rear dependant. Didn't took much photos on the dismantling unfortunately but will write a how to on the assembly later on. The aluminum trailing arms are already sandblasted as posted earlier, they will receive a thin layer of paint during the process. For now I'm working on the anti-dive kinematics. Gave the big junks away for chemical paint removal, just finished to straighten out the dust shields which will go tomorrow for galvanising. The kinematic junks will get painted directly.
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The race car progresses slowly but costly. Decided to sell my original evo dtm shell to someone who will complete it, well the work was in good progress until I had a chance to look at a late class1 shell and decided finally to go for the most complex version of W201 racers where only 6 cars have been ever made with at least one not existing anymore. Whats the difference? The evo's still had to be based on road/homologation models which was waived off for '93 season. For the early season races Mercedes couldn't get the full cars ready, so a few so called class 1a cars (converted '92 cars) have been out on the tracks. These cars are also quite unique but still suffer from the limits of the late evo2 cars. Especially being at the limit of kinematics on the rear axle. So in early mid season MB finally released the full class 1b cars, the short lived most radical 190 version. Sharing the dry sumped, pushed back in the chassis engine with the class 1a's, the real change took place in the rear end, where nothing on the chassis or axle setup reminds of its series derivates. So roughly it's more or less a tube chassis silhouette car. The ride level dropped once again significantly over the 92 cars, most visible on the rear wheel arch cut outs. One of these was used as a test bed for the 94 class active suspension driven by Bernd Schneider. Anyhow, to rebuilt such a car from scratch is basically impossible unless you get one of the cars on hand and that's what happened and the story took another turn. A Celette bench and a W201 jig set is the start point, then it needs to to get some more jigs fabricated to get the rear axle points set up. To get it right it needs also the homologation documents and the luck of having contacts to people who built and worked with these cars in the past.
Here some shots
Here some shots
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Something NOS and unexpected came across my way last night and i had to take the opportunity - wasn't searching for them in particular nor having the need but with skyrocketing prices for these NLA unicorns there wasn't much to argue about and to have is better than to be in need.
NOS pre-facelift LHD ROW headlights in old style boxes covered in thick desert dust, came along with "unfortunately white" but original indicators. I think they are a good investment. Just need to find a new original laminated rear glass next.
NOS pre-facelift LHD ROW headlights in old style boxes covered in thick desert dust, came along with "unfortunately white" but original indicators. I think they are a good investment. Just need to find a new original laminated rear glass next.
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Just 2 days ago the last pieces of my M117 (intercooler) intake manifold got ready.
Need to get it here and assembled (welded) together.
I m super excited to get this thing done.
The IC core is of the same thickness however way larger size. You can see the white outlined core size in the old setup vs the new core size.
Need to get it here and assembled (welded) together.
I m super excited to get this thing done.
The IC core is of the same thickness however way larger size. You can see the white outlined core size in the old setup vs the new core size.
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Today was a very special day, I bolted up the intake manifold and supercharger pulley onto my M117. Everything just fits - I m so overwhelmed that I actually designed and constructed that from scratch... Turned out incredibly well in my opinion.
There is now a huge free space in between the block and manifold. I guess it might reduce heat transfer into the manifold, also the fact that the water passages are mostly detached from the intake ports. I have seen some photos of the group C car M117 and M119 engines and copied their additional water ports at the rear end of the heads to achieve more equal head temperatures, particularly on the rear cylinders. On the road cars, the driver side port is only used once you switch on the heater.
There is now a huge free space in between the block and manifold. I guess it might reduce heat transfer into the manifold, also the fact that the water passages are mostly detached from the intake ports. I have seen some photos of the group C car M117 and M119 engines and copied their additional water ports at the rear end of the heads to achieve more equal head temperatures, particularly on the rear cylinders. On the road cars, the driver side port is only used once you switch on the heater.
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Just got my first set of re-designed M117 fuel rails done, optional with fuel pressure/temperature sender port (amg M156 Sender unit). Original design I made back in 2014 or so.
Engine is out, need to make a new tandem pump carrier, non of the original bases is somehow adaptable. Might do a manual prototype then digitalizing, get it printed on my new 3d printer, verify fitment then cnc machining.
Engine is out, need to make a new tandem pump carrier, non of the original bases is somehow adaptable. Might do a manual prototype then digitalizing, get it printed on my new 3d printer, verify fitment then cnc machining.
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Some more W123 stuff!
Finished the electronic speedo conversion kits which utilize a W126 speedo as a start point. I have it available for the W123, W124 and W201. Was quite a task, especially to make the trip meter reset mechanism functional.
Also designed and printed a fuel catch tank so that both Bosch 044 pumps can draw fuel from that reservoir instead splitting the original 15mm ID tank feed hose in two. Fits perfectly on original mounting points and sits a bit higher then the diff and spare wheel tub. Got the individual sheets cut as per my file by water jet from 3mm aluminum sheet. Now only welding is left.
And last but not least, designed a shifter gate cover, since there was a gap in the wood trim. Amended an additional switch cut out and the controller for the engine data display.
Finished the electronic speedo conversion kits which utilize a W126 speedo as a start point. I have it available for the W123, W124 and W201. Was quite a task, especially to make the trip meter reset mechanism functional.
Also designed and printed a fuel catch tank so that both Bosch 044 pumps can draw fuel from that reservoir instead splitting the original 15mm ID tank feed hose in two. Fits perfectly on original mounting points and sits a bit higher then the diff and spare wheel tub. Got the individual sheets cut as per my file by water jet from 3mm aluminum sheet. Now only welding is left.
And last but not least, designed a shifter gate cover, since there was a gap in the wood trim. Amended an additional switch cut out and the controller for the engine data display.
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