SLS in Stinkbug stance

[txbrit]

Got a flat while out and about today, its bad enough I just put brand new Continentals on - but after changing the wheel, the SLS has stuck on ‘high” -

Back is Rock Solid - Noise coming from the rear it sounds like it is trying to lower but without success.

Should I assume spheres/Accumulators? They have not been done in the long time - as in before I got the car 9 years ago.

 

[gsxr]

If the suspension is rock hard with zero compliance, it's very likely failed accumulators/spheres. Replace with new OE/OEM.

If the SLS shocks are original, the foam stop buffers may be disintegrating, and those can't be replaced separately. The shocks are often in need of replacement after 30 years, even if not leaking. See photos at post # 3 here. Might as well do everything at the same time. If your shocks have already been replaced, they might be ok though.

 

[txbrit]

Thanks Dave,

My Tech is good with Old MB, but needs some pointers with the 036, will have him check the Rear Shocks, although they have been done it was a few years ago.

David.

 

[maw1124]

Yeah those shocks don’t fail in “a few years.” But new fluid with spheres is probably worth the time.

maw

 

[sheward]

You might make sure the SLS lever clamp on the sway bar has not loosened and moved when you jacked the car up

 

[JC220]

You might make sure the SLS lever clamp on the sway bar has not loosened and moved when you jacked the car up

Correct it's most likely an issue with the link rod. Maybe popped free so the car reading is thinking its low when it's really at the top. 99% that's the problem.

As an aside, on all S classes etc with air or ABC suspension I always proactively renew all link rods. Because it is very common for them to stick, corrode etc and pop free and when it does things like that can happen or worse. Aka my S600 once dropped suddenly so far at the front that the tyre hit the fender! Luckily it was before I repainted it

 

[txbrit]

You might make sure the SLS lever clamp on the sway bar has not loosened and moved when you jacked the car up

Correct it's most likely an issue with the link rod. Maybe popped free so the car reading is thinking its low when it's really at the top. 99% that's the problem.

As an aside, on all S classes etc with air or ABC suspension I always proactively renew all link rods. Because it is very common for them to stick, corrode etc and pop free and when it does things like that can happen or worse. Aka my S600 once dropped suddenly so far at the front that the tyre hit the fender! Luckily it was before I repainted it

Thank you gentlemen - don't want to assume here, and I guess I am a little slow today as it's the 4th - are we talking the front sway bar , it was the Right Front Tire that went flat, and I ended up having to call AAA out as the lovely tire people had torqued the bolts so I could not get them off with the spare wheel jack. The AAA tech had to use a breaker bar :-( I can see that Bubba may have knocked something.......

 

[nocfn]

I will had 2 cents - the original link rod is actually a rubber bushing. Due to heat and wear, that bushing in there disintegrates from road splash, petro-chemical substances etc. It is called a shackle IIRC and it is available from MB and the new design of that unit has today's compounds and it is much less play in that pressed synthetic bushing. 8mm/10mm on the flats loosens the nut - simple replacement on your back in 10 mins or less.

 

[Trae]

Yes, my 92' assumed the stinkbug stance after the adjustment rod popped off. The bushings had disintegrated.

 

[gsxr]

Linkage rod 124-320-09-89 is currently $30 MSRP. If replacing, set the length to the same as the original. Longer = lower ride height (or, requires more weight in tunk before SLS bothers lifting). Shorter = higher ride height.

Photo:

 

[nocfn]

That is the old style in that picture GSXR, The newer ones are a different bushing design but it is the joint only, everything else is the same.

And for the W126 owners, buy this one as it is cheaper than the W123 (yes 123 p/n) for the 126. I could not tell any difference in the rod length. If squimish about it use the "rod" from the W123 p/n original to the 126 chassis and the newer style bushing found in the 124 p/n.

 

[sheward]

Thank you gentlemen - don't want to assume here, and I guess I am a little slow today as it's the 4th - are we talking the front sway bar , it was the Right Front Tire that went flat, and I ended up having to call AAA out as the lovely tire people had torqued the bolts so I could not get them off with the spare wheel jack. The AAA tech had to use a breaker bar :-( I can see that Bubba may have knocked something.......

It's the rear sway bar. You will find the SLS valve and linkage referenced there. It will be hard to access without some ramps or jack stands.

 

[txbrit]

Thank you gentlemen, I will report back - don't you hate it when someone posts and doesn't follow up

 

[Trae]

Trying to replace with new linkage rod, but can't get the 10mm nut off the old rod.
Currently soaking in PB Blast. Anyone else had this problem?

OK, a couple of discoveries since this is my first time to replace. You need an 8mm open end wrench on one side whilst simultaneously loosening the 10mm nut on the other side. Otherwise it just spins.

Got the lower ball out, but can't yet access the top with both wrenches at the same time. Will try to hold mouth in a different position and do it by feel tomorrow.

Sometimes the easiest looking jobs end up taking the most time.

Need a long 8mm open end.

 

[nocfn]

was going to write that info. THe small tool kit is great for this under the vee-hickle!

 

[sheward]

Access is very limited in there. Yes, a long 8mm is helpful. If the spherical bushing is loose, you may be able to pry it off, taking care not to damage or bend the valve arm, which will give you a bit more access.

I wear a size X large glove. I believe I tried every mouth position I could muster.

 

[Trae]

OK, so I held my mouth in a different position, put right arm BEHIND axle boot with 10mm wrench while holding 8mm with left hand in front of axle boot
.
Finally removed old linkage rod. Nothing was left of the bushings and was only hanging on to the lever arm and upper bracket by zip ties I had used when it fell off.

It helps to have small hands/forearms when doing this job. . . and no jokes please! Remember how "sensitive" people are about such things.

 

[JC220]

OK, so I held my mouth in a different position, put right arm BEHIND axle boot with 10mm wrench while holding 8mm with left hand in front of axle boot
.
Finally removed old linkage rod. Nothing was left of the bushings and was only hanging on to the lever arm and upper bracket by zip ties I had used when it fell off.

It helps to have small hands/forearms when doing this job. . . and no jokes please! Remember how "sensitive" people are about such things.

I have a wrench for the sls 8mm which is ground down thin to get in there nicely.

When you get the new link installed give it a squirt of spray grease and do that annually to keep it healthy.

 

[sheward]

Ignition wrenches work nicely for this as well as the passenger side headlight mounting bolt. I have a set of German Stahlwille electric. Thank you, Dad.

 

[nocfn]

The standard mb toolkit has the flats you need for this job. It is the only tools I use frim the standard issue toolkit.