The $400 400E

[Beater400E]

I figured I'd share the story of the $400 400E here just for fun, and also to share some of the challenges and how I've dealt with them.

I ran across this car on Facebook Marketplace. It was listed for $900. It's a 92 400E. It was being sold by a title loan company in Post Falls Idaho. I live in Boise, which is about 400 miles south of Post Falls. I spoke with the seller and was told the car ran poorly and smoked, but that it did run and drive. I offered $400 based on that and they agreed. I figured worst case I could easily sell it on or part it out and get my money back and more.

SOLD - 1992 400E parts car, Arctic White/Gray, 181kmi, $900 (Post Falls, ID / Spokane WA area) | 400E / E420 Cars for Sale

Anyone looking for a parts car for $900? VIN = WDBEA34EXNB683457 https://www.lastvin.com/vin/Pgkjo2NJ7YkK2Va4q Seller's description 1992 Mercedes 400E, 4.2 L, 8 cylinder. This vehicle runs rough, does need an ignition, starts with a screw driver. ***Unfortunately this is a repossession...

www.500eboard.co

I own a diesel truck and a flat bed trailer, so I took off early the next morning and drove up and made the purchase. Title in hand, I turned around and headed back home to Boise.



The biggest issue with the car was the previous owner. The poor car had been so badly maintained, and "repaired" by someone who had no idea what he was doing, that it was in far worse shape than it would have been if he'd simply neglected to do anything. It had cheesy plastic tractor lights bolted to the front bumper, and a terrible aftermarket stereo system, installed by just cutting holes in door panels and running wires all over the car. The rear deck lid was misaligned and bent due to someone trying to break in to it using a pry bar. Similar damage was visible on the gas door.

At some point the original radiator fan and shroud were removed, and some kind of hokey aftermarket fan was suspended behind the radiator using plumber's tape.

 

[a777fan]

Wow. Amazing. Glad you nabbed it. What are your plans?

 

[Beater400E]

Quick reply. I've been working on it for the last couple months and have made a lot of progress.

I had actually bought a 1990 300E a few weeks before I bought the 400E. I'd been planning to go through and "restore" the 300, but when I found the 400, the 300 immediately just became a parts car.

The 400 did not have keys, and the ignition had been drilled out to the point that a screwdriver could be used to start the car. The serpentine belt would not stay on the engine, and the power steering and air conditioning did not work at all.

I started by ripping the nonsense radiator fan, tractor lights, and random stereo wiring garbage out. I took the car out and drove it and determined pretty quickly that it ran a little rough, and did occasionally smoke a bit, but it seemed like it was likely a carbon deposit or ignition problem rather than an actual engine mechanical issue.

The garbage fan had done a lot of damage to the radiator, and I quickly realized that the serpentine belt issue was due to both an improperly installed belt tensioner, and an alignment issue with the smog pump.

I was able to sort out the tensioner by replacing the adjuster with a new one sourced on ebay. I then figured out that the smog pump was not the correct one for the car. Not only was it a 6 rib, when the car actually used an 8 rib belt originally, but it turns out it was actually for a 300e, not a 400e. The air hoses on the output of the smog pump were completely missing, so the pump was effectively just there as an idler pulley, but since it didn't align properly it wasn't even working for that.

I filled the power steering reservoir and the fluid fell right back out on the floor thanks to a pressure hose that had seen better days, and then seen a shockingly terrible attempt at a repair.




Don't do drugs kids.

 

[Beater400E]

I tracked down a 1995 E420 in a local junk yard and got the power steering hoses, radiator, and smog pump. I got new smog pump hoses, and swapped the smog pump in and installed a new 6 rib belt and the replacement radiator and a 150 amp alternator out of a 98 e430 to support an electric fan upgrade. At that point I had a functioning belt drive.

I cleaned up the distributor caps and rotors and replaced the spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator, and intake air temperature sensor. I then ran a can of Seafoam through it to knock out the carbon deposits and ran it hard on the freeway for a few days. After that it idled smoothly and did not smoke. It still has a bit of a stumble at wide open throttle, which I suspect may be a fuel delivery issue.

Obviously I had to figure out a solution for the radiator fan. A stock replacement fan and fan clutch aren't too tough to find, but the fan shroud is tough. After some research and measurements, I decided a later model AMG fan might be a good option. I hit up my local pick and pull junk yard and got lucky. I managed to get an 850 watt fan out of a 2003 S55 AMG for $15.



This fan is huge, but with a little work, I managed to get it to fit.



There were some challenges to work through. The pulley for the factory radiator fan was too close to the fan and would not have allowed for enough clearance. I solved this by machining the pulley hub down flush with the face of the pulley, and then countersinking the bolt holes and installing flat head bolts. That resulted in about a half inch of clearance between the fan and the pulley.



The radiator hose then wanted to pass through the same area as the fan, so I fabricated a steel coolant pipe that gave me just enough room between the fan and the power steering reservoir.

 

[Beater400E]

I picked up a Mercedes PWM fan controller from Micro Autonomations to control the fan. I'm still in the process of getting that wired up.

Replacing the power steering hose is a big job, so I made sure to take care of a bunch of other things while I was at it. I got a pair of motor mounts, as well as a seal kit for the power steering pump, and an o ring kit for the air conditioning system.

I pulled the air conditioning compressor and repaired a few badly damaged wires. I replaced the power steering hose and motor mounts.

The lower oil pan, as well as the oil filter housing were leaking so those got new gaskets.

I have a pair of fuel pumps and a new filter that I'd bought for my 300E that I'll be putting on this car that I'm hoping will resolve the high speed stumble.

The power steering hose failure had soaked the driver's side lower control arm bushings in fluid, and caused them to become gummy. Same with the sway bar bushings. The front brake rotors were probably factory original and were slightly warped and had a serious ridge, so new rotors, pads, and sensors were ordered, along with new front brake hoses and 2 liters of fresh brake fluid.

I have been using mostly non Mercedes parts for this build. I'm aware that I may end up having to replace some of these parts again in the future as a result, but I replacing do many things all at once that using all genuine parts in this early stage would be pretty spendy. If or when I have future failures, I'll step up to genuine parts to keep it on the road.

The car is still on the lift, getting the last of these mechanical issues sorted. The oil pan gasket I ordered was actually for an S500, and didn't fit my car. Thanks Fel Pro. I have the correct gasket on order. Once that comes in, I should be able to get the car out and really see how it does.

 

[Beater400E]

I also just made a deal on a 3.06 differential out of a 92 300CE. I'll be installing that in the next week or two. That should make the car a lot more fun.

The cosmetic details have been a bit of a hassle as well. I swapped the rear decklid off my 300E, and carefully transfered the 400E badge over. I also swapped the front bumper cover.

I picked up a set of DEPO headlights and tail lights to clean up the appearance a bit.


Unfortunately the DEPO clear corner lenses exited the vehicle on the freeway the very same day I installed them, so the amber corner lights went back on. Not sure I really liked the clear corners anyway.

I swapped all the lock cylinders from the 300E so now I have a key that works.

I just picked up a yard of grey MB tex to fix the door panels and various trim pieces on the interior.

 

[Beater400E]

There's still a fair bit left to do, but it's coming along. I'll post more here as things progress. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. I'm happy to share.

 

[luckymike]

Oh my gosh. This is fantastic!

 

[Beater400E]

Before I finish putting the front brakes back together, I should ask. Is it worth sourcing the later calipers and rotors to go from 22mm to 25mm? There's obviously some additional expense there. Is there any performance gain in doing that, or is it just a wear/warping thing? I would assume the braking performance would be similar either way, aside from maybe less likelihood to fade in extreme situations.

 

[gsxr]

Before I finish putting the front brakes back together, I should ask. Is it worth sourcing the later calipers and rotors to go from 22mm to 25mm? There's obviously some additional expense there. Is there any performance gain in doing that, or is it just a wear/warping thing? I would assume the braking performance would be similar either way, aside from maybe less likelihood to fade in extreme situations.

YES - you want the later 294x25mm brakes. The 1992 brakes (295x22) were prone to warping under any hard use which is why they were upgraded. There's no increase in brake torque since the diameter and swept area is basically the same, but there will be better fade resistance and cooling.

If that 95 E420 is still at the Jungle, get the front calipers. Otherwise a 93-95 E320 should also have the same calipers.

Any larger front brakes will require 16" or larger wheels. Stick with OE/Genuine or Zimmerman rotors if possible, most anything else won't last. Pad compound will make a noticeable difference in pedal feel, so do your homework on those also.

 

[Beater400E]

Man, I wish that E420 was at the Jungle. No, it's at a full service yard with full service yard prices.

 

[gsxr]

I tracked down a 1995 E420 in a local junk yard and got the power steering hoses, radiator, and smog pump. I got new smog pump hoses, and swapped the smog pump in and installed a new 6 rib belt and the replacement radiator and a 150 amp alternator out of a 98 e430 to support an electric fan upgrade. At that point I had a functioning belt drive.

Note that some of the pulley diameters are different between 8-rib and 6-rib. If you mix & match, you may also need a slightly different belt length. IIRC the smog pump is one that is different... possibly the AC compressor/bracket... and the tensioner of course is different also. You can convert to the later style spring tensioner and 6-ribbers by using parts from a 93-up M119, which may be available at the Jungle, eventually.

I cleaned up the distributor caps and rotors and replaced the spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator, and intake air temperature sensor. I then ran a can of Seafoam through it to knock out the carbon deposits and ran it hard on the freeway for a few days. After that it idled smoothly and did not smoke. It still has a bit of a stumble at wide open throttle, which I suspect may be a fuel delivery issue.

How much of a "stumble" at WOT is there? Will it pull to 6000rpm redline? Is it an intermittent stumble, or at a fixed frequency? If you have new fuel pumps (hopefully Bosch - if not, buy Bosch), try them first. I have a feeling this may not be fuel delivery.

 

[Beater400E]

Unfortunately I have the early timing cover, so converting to the late tensioner would require a huge amount of work. The smog pump pulley is very slightly different in diameter, but not by much. The tensioner was able to easily make up any difference.

If I'm cruising, and then just stand on the throttle, the car will downshift, then begin to accelerate, then is labors for a moment and bogs down. It will quickly clear up. The stumble only lasts maybe half a second. It also feels like it should have more power at high RPMs. The fuel pumps are Bosch, although they are used. I pulled them from a car that had just recently had its pumps replaced before being wrecked. The pumps in the car now are insanely loud, so I'm very suspicious of them even without the stumble.

 

[gsxr]

The power steering hose failure had soaked the driver's side lower control arm bushings in fluid, and caused them to become gummy. Same with the sway bar bushings.

Get OE/Genuine sway bar bushings, they aren't expensive, and have a Teflon liner to avoid noises. Aftermarket won't have this.

The front brake rotors were probably factory original and were slightly warped and had a serious ridge, so new rotors, pads, and sensors were ordered, along with new front brake hoses and 2 liters of fresh brake fluid.

Pressure bleed if possible when replacing the brake fluid. DOT 4/4+ only. A bit less than 1 liter of fluid is required for the flush using a pressure bleeder.

I have been using mostly non Mercedes parts for this build. I'm aware that I may end up having to replace some of these parts again in the future as a result, but I replacing do many things all at once that using all genuine parts in this early stage would be pretty spendy. If or when I have future failures, I'll step up to genuine parts to keep it on the road.

Some items should be OE/Genuine, or at least OEM... others you can get away with aftermarket. But in general you want to stick with OEM stuff from an import part vendor like RM European, AutohausAZ, or FCP Euro (the latter often costs a bit more, but offers lifetime warranty on everything including brake pads/rotors, fluids, wipers, etc. Or stop by IPS (Import Part Specialists) in Boise off overland, they carry the same WorldPac catalog stuff as RME/AHAZ/FCP.

For dealer parts use one of the online RevParts dealers like MB Naperville, 26% off MSRP, free shipping over $100 with code 500EPROMO. If you don't have EPC access, look into that... it will prevent wrong parts (like the pan gasket) and lets you more easily shop around.

The car is still on the lift, getting the last of these mechanical issues sorted. The oil pan gasket I ordered was actually for an S500, and didn't fit my car. Thanks Fel Pro. I have the correct gasket on order. Once that comes in, I should be able to get the car out and really see how it does.

I wouldn't use a Fel-Pro oil pan gasket, Victor-Reinz is OEM. These are picky about sealing, use a torque wrench in stages in a kriss-kross pattern. If you have a can of Right Stuff handy, consider a thin coat between the gasket and lower steel pan (NO sealant on the upper/aluminum pan). If it weeps afterwards, don't torque beyond spec, it won't help...

 

[gsxr]

Unfortunately I have the early timing cover, so converting to the late tensioner would require a huge amount of work.

Ooof... Dec-1991 build date. If the mounting boss is present but untapped, you can still do it. If the timing cover doesn't have the mounting boss, yeah, forget it.

The smog pump pulley is very slightly different in diameter, but not by much. The tensioner was able to easily make up any difference.

BTW, the smog pump is only there to reduce emissions during warmup. It's not needed for normal engine operation. If disconnected / non-functional, the only thing it will do is trigger the CEL. The CEL is semi-useless on these cars as it only triggers if there is an emissions-related fault. You need a hand-held blink code reader to check all the other modules for fault codes.

If I'm cruising, and then just stand on the throttle, the car will downshift, then begin to accelerate, then is labors for a moment and bogs down. It will quickly clear up. The stumble only lasts maybe half a second. It also feels like it should have more power at high RPMs. The fuel pumps are Bosch, although they are used. I pulled them from a car that had just recently had its pumps replaced before being wrecked. The pumps in the car now are insanely loud, so I'm very suspicious of them even without the stumble.

Hmmm. I'm curious what happens with new Bosch pumps (which are very loud). There should be a plastic cover over the pump package, this helps reduce the noise. If it's low on power at higher RPM, consider an exhaust backpressure test, in case the cats are partly clogged. That is, assuming it still has cats...

 

[Beater400E]

Sad news there. Important Parts Specialists went out of business a few weeks ago.

I won't do business with FCP Euro any more. They offer free "economy" shipping, which they claim is no tracking, and may take up to 2 weeks. If you do use it though, they will hold your parts for 10 days before shipping to make sure it takes 2 weeks. Then they'll ship with regular ground shipping, for which there is tracking. It's all just an effort to squeeze more money out of consumers who don't want to wait. That's shady, so I buy my parts elsewhere now.

I agree that some of my parts aren't ideal. Keep in mind I'm trying to save a $400 car. It needs a ton of parts just to get back in the road. I do all my own labor and have a well equipped shop with a lift, so redoing the same job again later isn't that big if a deal. Right now I'm just trying to get the car back on the road. I'll worry about perfecting it later.

 

[Beater400E]

BTW, the smog pump is only there to reduce emissions during warmup. It's not needed for normal engine operation. If disconnected / non-functional, the only thing it will do is trigger the CEL. The CEL is semi-useless on these cars as it only triggers if there is an emissions-related fault. You need a hand-held blink code reader to check all the other modules for fault codes.

Yeah, I know I don't really need it, but it was the easiest way to sort out the belt drive issues. I spent $50 on the pump with the diverter valve and some crunchy hoses. Maybe $25 more for new hoses, and we're good to go.

Ooof... Dec-1991 build date. If the mounting boss is present but untapped, you can still do it. If the timing cover doesn't have the mounting boss, yeah, forget it.

Yeah, no boss at all. I may see if the local yard with the 420E would be willing to pull the timing cover for a reasonable price. I wouldn't go out of my way to swap it just yet, but when the tensioner fails again in the future I might like to have the parts handy.

Hmmm. I'm curious what happens with new Bosch pumps (which are very loud). There should be a plastic cover over the pump package, this helps reduce the noise. If it's low on power at higher RPM, consider an exhaust backpressure test, in case the cats are partly clogged. That is, assuming it still has cats...

The cover is missing, so that could be a big part of it. I so have the cover off my 300E parts car, so I can install that too. I totally agree that the pumps and filter might not solve my problem, but I have them, so I'll just give it a shot. I had the same thought about the cats. It does still have them... for now.

 

[northNH]

Not sure how you pissed off FCP, if what you write is true…
I’ve used them for more than 2 decades and never has parts taken longer than 3 days to arrive via Economy Shipping.
Sometimes in 2 days, and occasionally in 1 day.

 

[Beater400E]

Not sure how you pissed off FCP, if what you write is true…
I’ve used them for more than 2 decades and never has parts taken longer than 3 days to arrive via Economy Shipping.
Sometimes in 2 days, and occasionally in 1 day.

I thought it might have just been bad luck, but after a week or so I contacted them and asked whether my order had shipped because the online order status showed it had not. I was told that it had indeed already shipped, and there just wasn't any tracking info because it was economy 2 week shipping. Like 3 days later I got the notification that it had actually shipped.

It's certainly possible that it was just an isolated thing, but with alternatives like Pelican available, I didn't see much reason to use FCP.

 

[gsxr]

Sad news there. Important Parts Specialists went out of business a few weeks ago.

Nooooo! I hadn't heard yet.

I won't do business with FCP Euro any more. They offer free "economy" shipping, which they claim is no tracking, and may take up to 2 weeks. If you do use it though, they will hold your parts for 10 days before shipping to make sure it takes 2 weeks. Then they'll ship with regular ground shipping, for which there is tracking. It's all just an effort to squeeze more money out of consumers who don't want to wait. That's shady, so I buy my parts elsewhere now.

This doesn't sound right. FCP Economy is UPS SurePost and it does include tracking. They'll typically ship within 1-2 business days, unless an item is not in stock, which is usually stated on the product page. They do not normally 'hold' the shipment if it's in stock - I've never seen this happen.

Delivery time depends on location, to Idaho, 7-10 days total is pretty normal - you have to live close to their warehouse to get faster 'economy' shipping like northNH described. I typically don't buy from them if I want something faster (like, less than 1 week delivery time). I buy most of my aftermarket stuff from RME nowadays, unless I need the lifetime warranty for some reason. RME often ships from CA via FedEx Ground, but not always.

I agree that some of my parts aren't ideal. Keep in mind I'm trying to save a $400 car. It needs a ton of parts just to get back in the road. I do all my own labor and have a well equipped shop with a lift, so redoing the same job again later isn't that big if a deal. Right now I'm just trying to get the car back on the road. I'll worry about perfecting it later.

Totally understand - just be careful not to end up doing a job twice at higher cost vs shelling out for quality parts the first time. I.e., avoid ÜRO/APA like the plague, etc....

Yeah, no boss at all. I may see if the local yard with the 420E would be willing to pull the timing cover for a reasonable price. I wouldn't go out of my way to swap it just yet, but when the tensioner fails again in the future I might like to have the parts handy.

It's HOURS of work to remove and they might bugger up the timing cover in the process. I'd just skip it. Better to look for a 5.0L engine swap instead (1993-95 R129 or W/V140). These occasionally show up at the Jungle.

The cover is missing, so that could be a big part of it. I so have the cover off my 300E parts car, so I can install that too. I totally agree that the pumps and filter might not solve my problem, but I have them, so I'll just give it a shot. I had the same thought about the cats. It does still have them... for now.

If the cats are factory and in good shape, don't damage them... they can flow enough to support >400hp and there will be *zero* power gain if removed - and, you can't get factory cats anymore, without buying a parts car. Restricted exhaust typically results in reduced high-RPM power but without any bogging down or hesitation, just doesn't pull as hard as it should. If you can find a flat open road you can time it to 70-80mph from a stop and see if the numbers are anywhere close to spec.

 

[gsxr]

FYI re: FCP:

I ordered fuel pumps from them yesterday, July-4, with Economy free shipping (what I call "Donkey Post").

They shipped today (July-5) via UPS SurePost and provided a tracking number, ETA is TBD, I'll update when they have a date - I'm guessing 7-10 days.

EDIT 1: UPS is showing delivery on Saturday, July 8... will post when delivered. 4 days seems awfully optimistic.

EDIT 2: UPS delivered on Friday, July 7! That's gotta be a new record, especially for Donkey Post to West Coast.

 

[Beater400E]

FYI re: FCP:

I ordered fuel pumps from them yesterday, July-4, with Economy free shipping (what I call "Donkey Post").

They shipped today (July-5) via UPS SurePost and provided a tracking number, ETA is TBD, I'll update when they have a date - I'm guessing 7-10 days.

Nice. I don't know what happened with my shipment then. The thing that really got me is that I called and asked them about it and they told me it had shipped, but did not have tracking because I'd chosen the economy shipping. Probably an isolated deal and an uninformed employee then.

 

[northNH]

RE: FCP

Their initial relatively low price, with free shipping, their Lifetime Guarantee on ‘em, and sending worn pairs back in a USPS FlatRate box make their Zimmerman rotors a no brainer.

I have heard that it’s getting harder to find good help

 

[gsxr]

UPS delivered the FCP package on Friday, July 7! Shipped Weds, 7/5 and delivered 7/2 7/7. That's gotta be a new record, especially for Donkey Post to West Coast. Shoot, that's way faster than normal ground service. Total fluke, but I'm not complaining.

Also: I was notified of the shipment and delivery updates via my free My UPS account. Often, USPS handles the last-mile delivery for SurePost but I've had some show up in the Big Brown Truck, like this did.

 

[northNH]

Just received from FCP Euro:

“Hello there,​

​

At FCP Euro, we highly value your feedback and continuously work to improve your shopping experience. That's why we're excited to share some fantastic news with you! Based on the feedback we received from surveying our customers, we have implemented significant enhancements to our shipping services, guaranteeing that your European automotive parts will now reach you faster than ever before.​

​

Shipping 7 Days a Week: Throughout 2023, we have diligently expanded our operations to provide shipping services every day of the week. Going forward, we are fully committed to maintaining this 7-day-a-week capability. Whether you place an order on a weekday or during the weekend, rest assured that we will swiftly process it and have it on its way to you in no time.​

​

Faster Delivery Through More Stocking Inventory and Faster Lead Times: We understand the significance of receiving your parts promptly. That's why we have made substantial investments in expanding our in-stock inventory. Doing so enables us to significantly reduce our lead times, ensuring your packages are on their way to you in the shortest possible time.​

​

Lower Domestic Air and Expedited Shipping Rates: We are committed to providing you with affordable access to premium shipping options. To make this a reality, we have made substantial reductions in the costs of our domestic air and expedited services. Now, you can easily upgrade your shipping method without worrying about excessive expenses, ensuring that your parts arrive when you need them.​

​

Reduced International Shipping Rates: We recognize that our mission to make European automotive parts accessible to enthusiasts occasionally extends globally. To address this, we are pleased to announce a significant reduction in our international shipping rates. In most jurisdictions, we have decreased shipping fees by nearly 50%. This means you can now enjoy more affordable access to top-quality parts, regardless of your location, without the burden of excessively high shipping costs.​

​

West Coast Facility Opening in Fall of 2023: To better serve our valued West Coast customers, we are thrilled to announce the opening of our expanded facility in August. This expansion allows us to provide overnight ground shipping to most West Coast locations, ensuring that you receive your parts promptly. With our new facility, we are dedicated to minimizing downtime for your vehicle and delivering an improved experience.​

​

We are deeply committed to your satisfaction and continually strive to enhance your shopping experience. The improvements we have made to our shipping services are a reflection of our unwavering dedication to serving you better.​

​

Thank you for being a loyal FCP Euro customer. We truly appreciate your support and the trust you have placed in us. If you have any questions or need assistance, our dedicated customer support team is always ready to help.​

​

Get ready to enjoy faster shipping, reduced rates, and a seamless shopping experience at FCP Euro. We can't wait to see you back on the road, enjoying the thrill of driving your European vehicle.​

​

If you have any additional questions or feedback on shipping, feel free to email me at scottd@fcpeuro.com.​

​

Sincerely,​

​

Scott Drozd​

CEO - FCP Euro”​

 

[Beater400E]

I got that same email. Sounds promising. I'll definitely be giving them another shot.

 

[northNH]

Maybe they did this ‘cause of you…
And sounds like Dave is the first beneficiary.

 

[kegmankipp]

So glad to hear about west coast distribution center!!!

 

[Beater400E]

If you can find a flat open road you can time it to 70-80mph from a stop and see if the numbers are anywhere close to spec.

Just finally got the power steering sorted and took it for a little drive. Got some acceleration numbers.

0-60: 8.6
1/8 mile: 10.01 @ 66.0 mph.
1/4 mile: 15.77 @ 84.6 mph.

It's 85 degrees out and I'm at 2700 feet elevation.

What are typical numbers for a stock 400E?

 

[RicardoD]

west coast distribution center is huge. I used FCP Euro for almost all parts in my BMW E60 refurbish project and the only thing that sucked was the free shipping from the East Coast to California. I will be awesome when they fulfill out of Arizona like AutohausAZ! AutohausAZ is very fast for me. What I need is part ordered on weekend and available the following weekend. FCP Euro couldn't really do that.

 

[a777fan]

Just finally got the power steering sorted and took it for a little drive. Got some acceleration numbers.

0-60: 8.6
1/8 mile: 10.01 @ 66.0 mph.
1/4 mile: 15.77 @ 84.6 mph.

It's 85 degrees out and I'm at 2700 feet elevation.

What are typical numbers for a stock 400E?

7.1-7.3 via r&t & c/d.

C/D: https://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/E420_C&D_Feb-1995_First-Class_Travelers.pdf
R&T: https://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/E420_R&T_Mar-1995_Elite_Eights.pdf

 

[gsxr]

0-60: 8.6
1/8 mile: 10.01 @ 66.0 mph.
1/4 mile: 15.77 @ 84.6 mph.

It's 85 degrees out and I'm at 2700 feet elevation. What are typical numbers for a stock 400E?

That is significantly slower than stock. I've tested a couple of my .034's at 2700' elevation near Boise with ~1/2 tank of fuel, in cool ambient temps, with engine temps 80-85C. Ballpark numbers are below.

0-60 = 7.0 (closer 7.3-7.5 in summer temps)
0-80 = 10.7-11.0
1/8 = 9.8-10.2 @ 72-75mph
1/4 = 15.0-15.5 @ 93-95mph

This data is from a Race Techology AX-22 performance computer on a flat road. What did you use to measure performance? I assume there was zero wheelspin?

While your times aren't too bad, the bigger concern is the low trap speed on both the 1/8 and 1/4 mile. At 5-10mph slower than typical, you may be missing possibly 20-30hp. You should be hitting at least 90mph in the 1/4 even at 2700'.

Any chance you can get up to Firebird for some official timeslips? They are having grudge racing / test+tune this Saturday night, $30 to enter (plus $10/year for your race number). Details here. Weather looks crappy... bloody hot, near 100F, although it will cool down to 80's around sunset. If you ever do go to the dragstrip, let me know and I'll give you some pointers.

 

[gsxr]

west coast distribution center is huge. I used FCP Euro for almost all parts in my BMW E60 refurbish project and the only thing that sucked was the free shipping from the East Coast to California. I will be awesome when they fulfill out of Arizona like AutohausAZ! AutohausAZ is very fast for me. What I need is part ordered on weekend and available the following weekend. FCP Euro couldn't really do that.

@RicardoD, try ordering from RM European. They use the same warehouses / suppliers as AHAZ and are often cheaper, and also often ship out of the Bay area. Might only be 2-3 day delivery time. And, RME shows you quantity in stock, which can be helpful.

 

[Beater400E]

I'm definitely willing to take it out to Firebird, but I'll probably wait until I get things a bit more sorted. I have a new O2 sensor I need to install, and then I might actually see about pulling codes. So far I've just been addressing obvious issues, and replacing typical tune up parts. Probably about time to do some actual troubleshooting. Also, my 3.06 differential and seals just arrived, so that will be going in soon.

No wheelspin to speak of. Just a little chirp off the line. I'm just using the HP Tuners track addict app on my phone, so I can't vouch for total accuracy, but my speedometer agrees with its speed, and I did a few pulls and it was pretty consistent.

 

[gsxr]

As an FYI... you may want to get up to Firdbird once with the stock 2.24 diff. All my data is with stock gears, once you change to 3.06 there will be no reference for comparison. Plus, it would be nice to see the before / after data on timeslips between 2.24 and 3.06 gears. There should be a substantial improvement in times (ET) but little if any change in trap speeds (MPH). Could be nearly 1 full second quicker in the 1/4 with the gears... which could also cause wheelspin issues at launch.

Definitely pull codes from all modules - start by clearing everything (don't even bother writing them down), drive it for a few days, then check codes. Right now you'll get 'code diarrhea' with a bunch of old codes stored for years that will mostly be useless, or send you chasing undomesticated waterfowl. Fresh codes that appear quickly are the ones you want to focus on.

 

[Beater400E]

Definitely pull codes from all modules - start by clearing everything (don't even bother writing them down), drive it for a few days, then check codes. Right now you'll get 'code diarrhea' with a bunch of old codes stored for years that will mostly be useless, or send you chasing undomesticated waterfowl. Fresh codes that appear quickly are the ones you want to focus on.

What tool is typically recommended for pulling/clearing codes? I've heard about a few, but I'm not really clear on the pros/cons or what would be best for me. I don't particularly want to spend hundreds on a tool that I'll only use on this one car, so I'm hoping a cheaper solution will work.

As an FYI... you may want to get up to Firdbird once with the stock 2.24 diff. All my data is with stock gears, once you change to 3.06 there will be no reference for comparison. Plus, it would be nice to see the before / after data on timeslips between 2.24 and 3.06 gears. There should be a substantial improvement in times (ET) but little if any change in trap speeds (MPH). Could be nearly 1 full second quicker in the 1/4 with the gears... which could also cause wheelspin issues at launch.

I'm not opposed to that. I do want to have it fairly healthy before I do though.

 

[gsxr]

What tool is typically recommended for pulling/clearing codes? I've heard about a few, but I'm not really clear on the pros/cons or what would be best for me. I don't particularly want to spend hundreds on a tool that I'll only use on this one car, so I'm hoping a cheaper solution will work.

A hand-held blinker box for ~$40 will work to pull codes, although I'd highly recommend a breakout box / mushroom adapter. You need 1mm pins without the breakout box, or 4mm pins with the breakout box, so figure out which setup you prefer before buying the blinker box. It isn't fun trying to figure out which unmarked 1mm hole to plug into on the 38-pin diagnostic port, if you opt to skip the breakout box.

To get live data you need SDS (Star Diagnostic System) with HHT-Win, which will set you back $500-$750 or so.

Read the stickies at the link below:

De-Coding

Information pertaining to diagnostic codes, how to obtain and dechiper them, and how to remedy them.

www.500eboard.co

 

[Beater400E]

A hand-held blinker box for ~$40 will work to pull codes, although I'd highly recommend a breakout box / mushroom adapter. You need 1mm pins without the breakout box, or 4mm pins with the breakout box, so figure out which setup you prefer before buying the blinker box. It isn't fun trying to figure out which unmarked 1mm hole to plug into on the 38-pin diagnostic port, if you opt to skip the breakout box.

Thanks for the advice. I've ordered a breakout box and blinker. I'm sure that will be... illuminating.

 

[Beater400E]

So I stumbled across a great deal on a 94 S500 that is probably not worth saving. Has a supposedly nice running engine and trans though. That engine should be nearly a bolt in for my 92 400E, right? Upper and lower oil pans are different, I know that. What else?

 

[a777fan]

I think thats it. Swap the pans and you should be gtg.

 

[gsxr]

Both oil pans, dipstick tube, exhaust manifolds, fan clutch, and likely some accessory brackets or other miscellany I'm forgetting...

 

[Beater400E]

Both oil pans, dipstick tube, exhaust manifolds, fan clutch, and likely some accessory brackets or other miscellany I'm forgetting...

Ok, pretty simple. What about the LH module? Do I use my 400E module, or will the w140 module work? Or do I need something else?

 

[gsxr]

IIRC you will use the W140 module along with removing one of the relays behind the fuse box (for cold upshift delay on the 400E only).

 

[Beater400E]

Nice. Sounds like I'd be stupid not to do it.

 

[Beater400E]

What can I say. I'm a sucker for a bad idea. $500 for a clapped out S500. If this all goes terribly wrong I blame Dave.

 

[kegmankipp]

Looks pretty good in the pics???

 

[Beater400E]

Looks pretty good in the pics???

Good looking from afar, but far from good looking. It has a few little dents and scratches. The front seats are obliterated. Somebody straight-piped it horribly, the trans takes a bit to engage, and it has a torrential coolant leak from the rear driver's side of the engine somewhere. It's a pile. Totally roached. But it was $500, so I figured I'll give it a shot. I'll take it to the DMV Monday and make sure the title stuff all works out, and then I'll probably put it up on my lift and see what's up with the river of coolant. If that isn't catastrophic I'll give it a leakdown test and find out if there's any hope for it.

 

[gsxr]

If the factory cats were still present, you got the rest of the car for free... but I assume "straight piped" means de-catted.

The transmission is identical to the E500E trans, and the only difference vs the 400E is the valvebody (400E has FGS, the 5.0L trans has SGS).

Lots of valuable parts there, at least on the powertrain!

 

[Beater400E]

I assume "straight piped" means de-catted.

Yup. Cats are gone. The transmission seems a little unhealthy. It's really sluggish shifting into any gear.

Anyone have any thoughts what might be causing coolant to POUR out of the rear left side of the engine?

 

[Beater400E]

Looks like potentially head gasket or a cracked head. Stuck my bore scope up in there. Looks like it's been leaking for quite a while.