Chain yanks belong on BW, Honch...
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Theoretical question about zeroing odometer
- Thread starter jnes
- Start date
Man I knew I would draw some the fire from the heavyweights with that post...
LOL, I don't have any dog in this particular hunt. To me it is all about documentation throughout, verification, and not lying to anybody. I personally would never do it because I am much more impressed with a perfect car that shows a documented high mileage then I would be with one that displayed a low mileage. I realize that some consider it an entirely different discussion if the VIN plate is the only thing that has covered that mileage, but I would still like it much better...
^^^
Alright you two just for the record although we disagree that there are some circumstances (i.e. six or now a days even seven figure restorations) where a new odometer is warranted my desire to replace the speedometer in my car was strictly for cosmetic purposes only. I'm sure you both have seen new or nice examples where the orange accents are very bright compared to most of them you see left today that are faded it is just a matter to what degree. Therefore if you are attempting to restore a car to be shown given how much of a focal point the cluster is for the interior this change although small yields a big impression (at least to me)
I totally understand wanting to replace the speedo/odo with a new gauge! But I would have the new one set to match the old, which any VDO shop could easily do.
For needle-brightening, Gerry posted info somewhere on using model paint in the appropriate color orange to spice up the old needles.
For needle-brightening, Gerry posted info somewhere on using model paint in the appropriate color orange to spice up the old needles.
My HOW-TO sucked. But I revised it very recently with a better color/type of Tamiya? paint that is more true to the original than the Testor's orange paint that I used.
Remember, too, it's not only the needles that fade. The km/hr orange paint also fades on the gauge face itself ... the gauge cluster equivalent of "pinkomino".....
Remember, too, it's not only the needles that fade. The km/hr orange paint also fades on the gauge face itself ... the gauge cluster equivalent of "pinkomino".....
D'oh, yes, good point... faceplate fade is harder to fix. Bummer the speedo is NLA. Cheery thought: Wanna bet MB just scrapped the ones they had on the shelf to free up warehouse space, due to lack of demand?
Usually with surplus stock, MB blows it out through MB GTC. That's how & where my friend van de Velde scoops stuff up by the semi-truckload every few weeks.....like when he got 50-60 M117 ECE long blocks about 5-6 years ago, and something like 30-40 2.3-16 motors, new in crate....
Dave, you can buy stuff yourself via the MB GTC web site: http://www.mbgtc.de/
Dave, you can buy stuff yourself via the MB GTC web site: http://www.mbgtc.de/
You're friend, that SOB...., scored a NEW E60 motor a few years ago....... I hate him.
Ron
I've tried to allow this whole "frame up restoration justifies odometer zeroing" argument a chance to settle in my mind as acceptable. Tried really hard. I can't get there. It just doesn't work for me.
A restored car is not new in the same way restored wheels aren't new. And the analogy is pure -- the oxidization of the metal isn't reversed. Minute amounts of wear are not "added back" in the restoration. The tactile strength of any weld joints isn't "made new". "Technically" or otherwise, these things just didn't happen in the restoration.
I think the proper presentation of the car is "it has X miles, as shown on the odometer, but was given an [over the top, painstaking, nuts and bolts, whatever you want to call it] restoration Y many miles ago."
So for me there is no acceptable level of refurbishment to zero out the odometer.
maw
A restored car is not new in the same way restored wheels aren't new. And the analogy is pure -- the oxidization of the metal isn't reversed. Minute amounts of wear are not "added back" in the restoration. The tactile strength of any weld joints isn't "made new". "Technically" or otherwise, these things just didn't happen in the restoration.
I think the proper presentation of the car is "it has X miles, as shown on the odometer, but was given an [over the top, painstaking, nuts and bolts, whatever you want to call it] restoration Y many miles ago."
So for me there is no acceptable level of refurbishment to zero out the odometer.
maw
I tend to feel the same way. But I also think high odo readings are cool, like the Glen/DrP almost-1,000,000km car.
The exception that I could see is if a new/NOS frame, unibody, etc was found and a vehicle was built around it. This would require a new VIN as well, but would justify an odometer setting of zero when it was completed. Doubtful there are any virgin 124 unibodys laying around (let alone 036 unibodys!).
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I thought it was obvious. Full on rotisserie restored cars with new/zeroed odometers should only use extra virgin olive oil. Preferably bought at Costco.
I replaced my engine and tranny last year with a used 100K unit from a totaled 500E. My car had 275K on it at time of replacement. I documented the install and just do the math for new-used engine. Odometer showing 285K now and I'm a firm believer in showing actual miles driven unless complete "frame-off" type restoration.
Precisely. From what I have heard the guys at North Hollywood Speedometer & Clock can re-finish the faces but when they do so they cannot replicate the factory part numbers and markings (I would imagine due to legal reasons). They already replaced the pointer on my current speedo as when I had my cluster torn apart to clean it up like a idiot I snagged it with a microfiber and it instantly snapped off.
Anyways I have seen some of their other work as well and the quality is excellent: http://www.nhspeedometer.com/
IME its about 95% of the time.... Restoration I have come to find means Very different things to different people...Wildly so for that matter!!
Jono
