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What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

I think the main drawback of HHT is that you must have a cartridge for car each model so it will work – is that correct? With such a system locating a full set of cartridges could be difficult now. If the HHT device comes with a w124 cartridge for example well be prepared to only diagnose w124's. That is my understanding anyway - correct me if I'm wrong.
Early versions had 1MB cartridges that were chassis-specific, as you described... one cartridge for the 124, another for the 140, etc. These were later replaced / superceded to a pair of 4MB cartridges which covered all models through the 90's. Problem is, locating the correct/late cartridges isn't easy. But if you don't need to work on all models, and you have the early 124-specific cartridge, that's all you need for the 124 / E500E.


In any case for my varied MB fleet Genuine C3 is the best way to go so I can read newer models on Xentry along with any older DAS model. It’s not particularly time consuming to use either in my experience - with a decent solid state drive it boots up and is ready in no time at all. Having ready & full access to WIS and EPC on the same system whilst diagnosing a vehicle is most beneficial for me.
I suspect a proper SSD makes a big difference in the C3 performance / boot time, and as you said having the EPC+WIS on the same machine can be handy. Given the difficulty in locating HHT's these days, it's far easier to just use the SDS. The SDS runs an HHT emulator called HHT-Win for those old 1990's models that originally used an HHT.

HFMScan had the ability to log data, I believe, which is generally not possible with HHT or SDS. This was the primary advantage of HFMScan, IMO, although not many people need datalogging.


:matrix:
 
A car buddy in Phoenix was telling me that the new (C5??) versions are completely wireless and set up to run on a rugged tablet. I've seen them for sale for about $1500 and they seem like a nice solution.
 
A car buddy in Phoenix was telling me that the new (C5??) versions are completely wireless and set up to run on a rugged tablet. I've seen them for sale for about $1500 and they seem like a nice solution.

I could be wrong but I believe the C5 Mux is a purely Chinese version that MB never produced. Read into that what you will but – in my experience all china MB muxes are poor quality and should be avoided unless you are ready to buy one each year as they fail. Pretty pointless and wasteful exercise. Buy an original C3 Mux and know that will work for years to come.


Yes China can & do make many great products (Like the I Phone for example) but unfortunately MB diagnostic multiplexers is not a good buy from China. See this thread for more information on how to identify a genuine C3 Mux and what the actual differences are in the 4x videos kindly provided by Yuri.
 
GSXR requires a landline. Klink, you can catch if you talk to Mrs. Klink. Jono, you can sometimes catch at the shop, but I'm loathe to ask him to stop making money to phone diagnose.

Jokes.

maw
 
Yes, Hfmscan has been an invaluable tool to me. I did a thorough review, including charts generated from several 30 minutes running through highways, on Benzworld. Of course, it is more like that I presented the reviews to trees because replacing OVP is sufficient there. I also provided some test data on this board in the top end rebuilt thread to confirm the engine performance after the head gasket replacement. A laptop, a cable, and a software (total cost without laptop is about $50). I got live data and live charting. The last version of the engine control module for E320, 1995 is the best because it provides the most data. I have upgraded all my ECM to the last version.

jftu105
 
That stuff isn’t free, Gerry, you paid for it...

:stickpoke:

Never said it was free.

No question that you get what you pay for ($$$) with the Big Ass Fans equipment. But it is nice that they appreciate their customers enough to send a “thank you” gift out of that $$$ that is spent.

Money spent at HF eventually finds its way to the Chinese government to support their defense buildup and planned world domination in the coming decades.

I don’t detect that Big Ass Fans has that type of aim/goal.
 
For you Harbor Fright LED light lovers .... does HF send YOU a box of swag for Christmas ?!?
They sure did! I got to pick any of the items shown below FREE! (ok, there was a nominal charge of $9.99 shipping for the free swag.)

I went with the muppet gloves. So soft & fuzzy... great for transmission valve body work.

:jono:
 

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Got 5 BAFs in the house with more BA stuff to come, no doubt. We get similar gift boxes from them at random intervals. We get a chuckle out of it, and we love the Big Ass mascots.
I tell you....the chicks dig BAFs !!
 
Gerry: "Money spent at HF eventually finds its way to the Chinese government to support their defense buildup and planned world domination in the coming decades. "

Cannot agree more!!! Not to mention more pollutions in every possible way (environment, food, culture, moral, etc.).

Never bought at BAF. Will look it up.

jftu105
 
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BAF might be making fans in the USA, but I guarantee that some parts and raw material is being sourced in China. Even though they're niche, they cannot afford not to.

Great fans though, I used to work out a gym that had HUGE ones mounted.
 
Another super handy tool is my little Dremel 3000. Great for cutting in tight spaces or just a quick job on the bench.
 
Never said it was free.

No question that you get what you pay for ($$$) with the Big Ass Fans equipment. But it is nice that they appreciate their customers enough to send a “thank you” gift out of that $$$ that is spent.

Money spent at HF eventually finds its way to the Chinese government to support their defense buildup and planned world domination in the coming decades.

I don’t detect that Big Ass Fans has that type of aim/goal.

So true Gerry !
 
So true Gerry !
For Christmas, from Laura, I received a Big Ass Fans garage LED lamp, which I'll put over my shop workbench. She also got the mounting bracket.

It's this lamp:

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So I bought the 5k lb quickjack and it works great. It is easy setup but get that one and the extension add on.
 
Not necessarily the best or cheapest buy, but my Xmas present to myself was a pair of ESCO Jack stands.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/Porsche/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_ESCOjs-detail.htm

I bought a pair with the flat pads, and a second set of posts with saddles. They were on sale at Pelican for 10% off. Have wanted a set for a while but finally pulled the trigger. They seem very well made, although the welds are not what I would call pretty. Function over form, perhaps. All in shipped for everything was about $195.
 

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Hi Merso:

I have used the Topsider with good success. Does a great job in getting all the oil out in ~ 30 minutes. Don't have to jack up car and slither under to remove oil pan drain.

A few minor gripes: the hose its insert tube is a bit cumbersome and is hard to store with the unit and there is always a bit of residual oil left in it so it can drip - I loop mine and rest it on the vacuum pump; the screw on caps for the discharge and the cover for the pump once removed can get lost as there is no way to attach them to the can - I'm considering attaching a magnet to them and then will fix to can; emptying the oil take some care as the vacuum pump protrudes a bit.

All the best,

Joe
 
Hi Merso:

I have used the Topsider with good success. Does a great job in getting all the oil out in ~ 30 minutes. Don't have to jack up car and slither under to remove oil pan drain.

A few minor gripes: the hose its insert tube is a bit cumbersome and is hard to store with the unit and there is always a bit of residual oil left in it so it can drip - I loop mine and rest it on the vacuum pump; the screw on caps for the discharge and the cover for the pump once removed can get lost as there is no way to attach them to the can - I'm considering attaching a magnet to them and then will fix to can; emptying the oil take some care as the vacuum pump protrudes a bit.

All the best,

Joe
If you have a compressor on hand this is the one you want:

https://m.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-q...r-46149.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

You can empty the crank case of Hot oil in about 3-4 min.

With a 20% coupon it's especially reasonable. They last on the shop 2-3 years.

We have 4 right now..and I see them in the dealership bays fwiw.

Just teflon tape the adapter to hold the hose...they loosen up and don't suck very well when as much:-P


Jono

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Thank guys. I have no compressor in my garage so it will be more easy to me to get manual pump. Now i am thinking about topsider 5060 or Mityvac 7400.

Only downside is that my Engine needs 8 Liter oil and i think i have to do 2 part oil change using each of these items.
 
The Topsider holds 8 qts.
Also, when changing the oil, unless the oil level is at MAX on the dipstick... you'll typically drain/vacuum out 7 quarts or less from an M119.

Don't forget to change the oil filter BEFORE draining/vacuuming! When you remove the center bolt on the filter, it lets the filter housing drain into the sump.

:rugby:
 
Only downside is that my Engine needs 8 Liter oil and i think i have to do 2 part oil change using each of these items.
Yes, a couple of my engines have slightly more capacity than the Mityvac holds, so I have to empty a bit out and then resume it. It's not too big of a deal, just adds a few minutes to the operation.
 
Hi Merso:

I have used the Topsider with good success. Does a great job in getting all the oil out in ~ 30 minutes. Don't have to jack up car and slither under to remove oil pan drain.

A few minor gripes: the hose its insert tube is a bit cumbersome and is hard to store with the unit and there is always a bit of residual oil left in it so it can drip - I loop mine and rest it on the vacuum pump; the screw on caps for the discharge and the cover for the pump once removed can get lost as there is no way to attach them to the can - I'm considering attaching a magnet to them and then will fix to can; emptying the oil take some care as the vacuum pump protrudes a bit.

All the best,

Joe

I started out with Topsiders some year ago, but I found them to be cumbersome to store (especially the hoses as you describe) and the crimped edge on the bottom of the cans starts to seep after a few years. I still have the cans from the two I had, I think the pump handles somehow got lost in a move as I've been unable to locate them for some time. So now they're relegated to waste oil storage so I don't have to run my waste oil down to Advance Auto every time I do an oil change....

Dan
 
On the subject of top siders, I've owned this thing for about 7 years which costs $150 (or $112.50 if you use the 25% off coupon available on NY day).
6 1/4 gallon capacity means that it has plenty of capacity to do a few cars. Really well built but can be a little tricky to empty when it's full.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html

It does require an air compressor to create the vacuum but once you have a vacuum pulled, you can disconnect the air hose and move it around.
With or without the coupon, It's well worth the money.

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Dan, I use a couple of empty 5-gallon buckets from Chevron DELO 400 for storing oil around the shop. When they get full, I take them to my county recycling center to dump the oil in their recycling tank. I did this for many of the years I lived in Texas as well; though I also had a standing invite from a buddy who owned an indy MB shop to come by any time and dump my oil in their pallet-tank. Coolant too. My county recycling center also accepts used coolant.
 
Dan, I use a couple of empty 5-gallon buckets from Chevron DELO 400 for storing oil around the shop. When they get full, I take them to my county recycling center to dump the oil in their recycling tank. I did this for many of the years I lived in Texas as well; though I also had a standing invite from a buddy who owned an indy MB shop to come by any time and dump my oil in their pallet-tank. Coolant too. My county recycling center also accepts used coolant.

Yeah, I could go that route but despite their leaking I like the TopSider cans because of their low profile. I can toss them in the back of the wagon and don't have to worry about them falling over. I have a piece of trunk liner from the back trunk wall of a W126 that I put down to prevent any messes in the cargo area.

I'v got an Advance Auto nearby that has a 500 gallon waste oil tank. I know the manager well enough that I just walk in the store, grab one of their work carts and roll my stuff right to the back and dump it out. Never have to worry about their tank being full...

Dan
 
Has anyone considered making a waste oil heater. It always crosses my mind this time of year as I freeze my behind off at the shop.
 
Has anyone considered making a waste oil heater. It always crosses my mind this time of year as I freeze my behind off at the shop.

A company I was partners in had a waste oil furnace to heat our shop, which was a 50' x 80' steel building. Being in the standby generator business, a big part of our work was performing annual maintenance on small (5kW) to large (2000kW) stationary standby generators. This typically included annual oil changes. As you might imagine, we generated a LOT of waste oil. On average we would burn several thousand gallons of waste oil a year (this was located in Indianapolis, IN) and in some cases not be able to keep up with the incoming oil despite our best efforts. We had four 500 skid based above ground tanks that the screened waste oil went into. These were piped together with the last tank having a line with a lift pump going to the furnace, which was suspended from the ceiling/roof of the building at one end.

Despite having a 20' overhead door that got opened regularly as trucks came and went, the furnace kept the inside of the building at shirt sleeve temperatures in the coldest weather.

I couldn't tell you what the BTU rating of our furnace was, but these are the guys who made it:

https://www.cleanburn.com/clean-burn-products/waste-oil-furnaces/

As for our overflow, well, the oil companies would come and pick it up for free. Used to be that they paid for it, and we used that for beer money in the shop fridge. They were making noises back in 2010 that they were going to start charging to pick up waste oil, but I exited the business around that time so I don't know if that came to pass or not.

Dan
 
This is my latest addition to this thread:

dremel®8200-16275.jpg

I had another non branded rotary tool and got tired of the continuous chuck problems and the little metal cutting wheels imploding at the slightest wobble. Eventually the chuck wouldn't tighten at all so I binned it and went to the local large DIY chain that was open on a Sunday...

This Dremel wasn't cheap but is well worth it. Cordless and with a one hour fast charger it's very easy to grab and get working on my latest weldathon on a c124. The cutting wheels are high quality and do not shatter or implode, I can wear then right down and swap another one on very easily. There is a whole range of accessories for these but all I really use is the metal cut off wheels and mini grinding wheels. It makes light easy work of grinding down welds in hard to reach areas
 
Not the best tool but very useful. Some of you might not know what this is. It came in a Mercedes tool kit from a car.
The pin is used as a guide pin to easy mount the wheel back on the car. After “hanging” the wheel on the pin it is in the correct position to get the other bolts in place.

IMG_6360.jpgIMG_6361.jpgIMG_6362.jpgIMG_6363.jpgIMG_6365.jpg
 
Not the best tool but very useful. Some of you might not know what this is. It came in a Mercedes tool kit from a car.
The pin is used as a guide pin to easy mount the wheel back on the car. After “hanging” the wheel on the pin it is in the correct position to get the other bolts in place.

Absolutely! I make sure there is one in all of my cars and the drivers know of it’s existence and purpose. Especially handy when changing a tire on the side of the road. I have a couple of spares in my parts stash as well.

Good find!

Dan
 
Bought one 3 years ago and been pretty happy with it. I noticed that some minor changes on the new ones and $20 increase in price.

Did anyone get this one for $1000:
https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5,000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html


I did the splurge and bought one. No leaks, works great. I bought this model and the additional new extender for the truck and my SEC as this model was not at a length I wanted for my car(s) and trucks. Works fantastic. I did the brakes and tire rotation on my daughters car over the holiday. Nice to be able to get that high off the deck inside the residence. being safe, still used jack stands where applicable.
 
I did the splurge and bought one. No leaks, works great. I bought this model and the additional new extender for the truck and my SEC as this model was not at a length I wanted for my car(s) and trucks. Works fantastic. I did the brakes and tire rotation on my daughters car over the holiday. Nice to be able to get that high off the deck inside the residence. being safe, still used jack stands where applicable.

:neeed:
 
Well I have not used the lift on any car other than my daughter’s clearing house car - a Dart. So when I rotate the E500 tires and change tranny fluid and filter after my rebuild some moths ago in the Feb/Mar timeframe I will include pics on my owner thread.
 
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The UPS man delivered a big box of new tools from Wiha.

Among all the lovely bits of German-engineered man toys were 2 sets of SAE and Metric combo wrenches. Offered on their website for $99 for the lot.

I didn't want to post up before I had a chance to handle them, but alas they are no longer on sale. :doh:

Finish is top notch. Markings are large and deep. Wrenches feel really good in the hand. Haven't turned them in anger yet, but I know these will serve me nicely.

They're made in Taiwan, but I've had good experiences with tools coming from there.

20190303_125926_zpsqpd1760k.JPG
 
Everything else in this order was German made.

In my experience, Taiwan might as well be on a different planet than mainland China when it comes to quality.
 
Metric Ratcheting Combination Open Ended Spanner Set(s)

Screen Shot 2019-03-05 at 7.12.25 PM.jpg

Wrenches for a proper P-I-M-P!

Berent 19mm.jpg

Zuhälterschlüssel or X-Steel 25pc Cr-V Ratcheting Combination Wrench Open Spanner Set (6-32mm)
 
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Everything else in this order was German made.

In my experience, Taiwan might as well be on a different planet than mainland China when it comes to quality.

I came from Taiwan originally. Taiwan would have been an independent country, having nothing to do with China, if MacAuthor had occupied Taiwan, as he did to occupy Japan and the Philipines, instead of letting Chiang Kai-shit to occupy Taiwan for the Ally after WWR II. Unfortunately, Chiang Kai-shit took over Taiwan, upon the request by the Ally, and he imposed martial law and started a massacre to wipe out all Taiwanese elites since 1946. Taiwanese are entirely different from Chinese. We speak a different language and have different DNAs. My grand parents always swore "Those damn Chinese!" and my parents did not speak any Chinese until they were forced to after WWR II. The 50 years of rule by Japan before the end of WWR II also added a totally different culture influence. I avoid buying anything made in China. The quality of products made in Taiwan could be much superior if it is not made with those bad Chinese influence.

jftu105
 
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