Center Console Bulb

[Jlaa]

Another thought @kiev - When you were probing the supposed X6/1 - was one of the wires a GREY / RED wire? That's supposed to the wire that feeds +12v to X6/1 from the illumination control circuit.

 

[Kyiv]

The two screws are almost certainly X6/1, appears to be all Gray/Blue wires there.

I think you're right Dave. Lower screw secures 2 ties of cables + a single cable. All blue grey. One ties of blue/grey cables goes towards switches above HVAC, the other tie of cables goes towards power window switches. One single blue/grey cable goes to, my understanding based on JLAA's pointers to audio fader switch

@kiev, good progress through process of elimination. Let's try to answer the question "Does the blue arrow point to X6/1"?
The answers to the following questions may help us nudge closer to the answer:

Can you trace the gray/blue wire from the gear selector light socket? As you can see in the diagram below highlighted in blue, the gear selector light socket should connect directly into X6/1, and the light socket is right there, so close to the presumed X6/1.

Interestingly (or not). While blue/grey cables from power windows and mirror switches AND rear head restraint switch AND rear dome light switch all go to X6/1


gear selector light, on the other hand does not. Its blue/grey cable quickly joins into a tie of cables that looks factory that joins other ties of cables and disappears into the depth, where the arrow points...

Does the rear dome lamp switch work? As you can see the the diagram below highlighted in green, this is connected directly to X6/1 and your presumed-X6/1 you mentioned basically all reads 0.0 or 0.02 volts. Note that I think the switch works even while there is no key in the ignition ... I think.

Rear dome lamp switch works, as in turns the light on/off, but is NOT illuminating. Rear headrest lowering switch also works, but does not illuminate.

**I thought, at the beginning, that it must be switches themselves, but after your pointers/explanations, I can see how rear dome switch's illumination AND rear headrest lowering switch's illumination connect directly to X6/1.

Does the fader switch illunination work? As you can see the the diagram below highlighted in green, this is connected directly to X6/1 and your presumed-X6/1 you mentioned basically all reads 0.0 or 0.02 volts.

The fader works, but does NOT illuminate

• With the ignition switch in the on position, do all the X6/1 wires still meter out at 0.0 or 0.02 volts? Does the rear head restraint release switch illumination work? See diagram below highlighted in red..... this is connected directly to X6/1.

Switch itself works, but not its illumination

Here is the thing. My cheap Amazon voltmeter always reads zero in default state. There is no "no reading" state. I checked several times both of the screws on X6/1, with ignition on, and headlights on, and sometimes they read "0", sometimes "0.01". More often it'll read "0". Maybe I'm generating static electricity?

I think the issue is with X6/1 connection. The upper screw hold a tie of cables, which contain red/grey cable, which my understanding is the powering cable? this tie of cables joins other ties of cables, including a tie that contains gear selector illumination cable and disappears into the depth (see arrow in the 2nd photo)

@Jlaa, looking at schematic, where does X6/1 get its power from?

 

[gsxr]

Switch itself works, but not its illumination

Have you either checked for voltage at the blue/gray wire, at the offending switch(es), with the switch unplugged. And/or, tried making the switch illuminate on the workbench by applying voltage to the appropriate pins?

Here is the thing. My cheap Amazon voltmeter always reads zero in default state. There is no "no reading" state. I checked several times both of the screws on X6/1, with ignition on, and headlights on, and sometimes they read "0", sometimes "0.01". More often it'll read "0". Maybe I'm generating static electricity?

This is normal. Zero volts is the "no reading" state. Most meters, especially inexpensive ones, may drift to slightly above zero even when not touching anything. Or, when connected to a terminal, they may show a trace voltage... either way, 0 and 0.01 should be treated as zero / no voltage.

I think the issue is with X6/1 connection. The upper screw hold a tie of cables, which contain red/grey cable, which my understanding is the powering cable? this tie of cables joins other ties of cables, including a tie that contains gear selector illumination cable and disappears into the depth (see arrow in the 2nd photo)

@Jlaa, looking at schematic, where does X6/1 get its power from?

X6/1 appears to be powered through fuse 9 and Illuminati module N40. It also connects through X6 to the instrument cluster where the illumination rheostat will "drain" power to dim the lights as desired. @Jlaa, do you concur?

 

[Jlaa]

X6/1 appears to be powered through fuse 9 and Illuminati module N40. It also connects through X6 to the instrument cluster where the illumination rheostat will "drain" power to dim the lights as desired. @Jlaa, do you concur?

Yes. @kiev you are making progress. Since the illumination for the fader, rear headrest, and rear domelight switch do NOT work, you know your next step is to measure voltage on grey/red wire. This wire, which comes from N40, is what feeds x6/1.

Check fuse 9 as that feeds N40. Maybe check to see if N40 (behind instrument cluster) is connected/grounded properly or replace it.

 

[Jlaa]

@kiev - just FYI here are the trials and tribulations of someone else with your exact same “certain switches do not illuminate” symptoms. Reading through the entire thread, I can summarize that the owner measured the resistance of terminal 58D (pin 2) of N40 (this is the terminal that feeds voltage through the grey/red wire to x6/1) to ground and got zero ohms.

That should not read zero ohms because that meant that 58D (pin 2) (grey/red wire) was shorted to ground. The owner eventually traced the short to a wire in the back doors feeding the rear window switch that was broken/shorted.

W124 electrical fun: Two problems - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Problem #1: I've been studying wiring diagrams and disassembling things left and right to try to figure this out, but am hoping maybe someone has had

www.peachparts.com

 

[Jlaa]

@kiev - yet another person from 2008 with the same symptoms. In this instance, the owner determined that their N40 was fine but was not being powered by +12v through fuse 9. Fuse 9 was fine, but apparently there was a break in the wiring from N40 to fuse 9….

Another W124 broken wiring problem - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

A couple of weeks ago I drove my 1987 300D Turbo (W124, OM603) at night for the first time in awhile and realized that only some of the dash lights

www.peachparts.com

I think your next step should be to:
1) Measure voltage to see if N40 is providing power to x6/1 on 58D.
2) If not, then check fuse 9.
3) If fuse 9 is ok, measure voltage to see if N40 is receiving +12v on terminal 30.

 

[Kyiv]

Have you either checked for voltage at the blue/gray wire, at the offending switch(es), with the switch unplugged.

Yes! I have power windows and mirror adjustment switches from the center console removed. Their blue/gray cables read zero. On the other hand, blue/gray cable that feeds hazard lights switch, which does illuminate, reads >7 volts

Check fuse 9 as that feeds N40. Maybe check to see if N40 (behind instrument cluster) is connected/grounded properly or replace it.

I've replaced all fuses in the fuse box a few years back, so it isn't likely it. I will pull the instrument cluster and check the N40. I hope I'm getting closer

you know your next step is to measure voltage on grey/red wire.

The grey/red wire is secured by the upper screw on X6/1. The upper screw reads the same - zero or 0.01 v - as lower screw that secures all of blue/grey cables....


Thank you both for taking your time to guide me.

 

[Jlaa]

The grey/red wire is secured by the upper screw on X6/1. The upper screw reads the same - zero or 0.01 v - as lower screw that secures all of blue/grey cables....

Ah! Ok I think you are inferring that terminal 58D on N40 is at zero volts! You have a good plan - double check at 58D on N40 itself to see if it is indeed at zero volts……

Then start checking terminal 30 to see if N40 is actually being powered and check 58d (lowercase d) to see if N40 is getting a reference signal from the car ….. you are making great progress!

 

[Kyiv]

@Jlaa, would you please attach this image, but without any drawings on it? I'd like to have it clean so I can more precisely ask questions here

 

[Kyiv]

Meanwhile, I believe I've located the N40 module. The connector that plugs into, one of its wires is grey/blue (red arrow, hopefully can be seen in the photo), which is probably gear selector illumination as it wasn't connected to X6/1:





@gsxr, Dave, "fuse 9", that would be in the regular fuse box, correct?

 

[Jlaa]

@Jlaa, would you please attach this image, but without any drawings on it? I'd like to have it clean so I can more precisely ask questions here
View attachment 131025

Here it is:

 

[Jlaa]

Meanwhile, I believe I've located the N40 module. The connector that plugs into, one of its wires is grey/blue (red arrow, hopefully can be seen in the photo), which is probably gear selector illumination as it wasn't connected to X6/1:

View attachment 131026
View attachment 131027


@gsxr, Dave, "fuse 9", that would be in the regular fuse box, correct?

According to the ETM, the GY/BU wire from N40 is from terminal 58d, which leads to X6 (not X6/1) and is used as a reference to drive X6/1 via term 58D over the GY/RD wire

 

[gsxr]

Meanwhile, I believe I've located the N40 module. The connector that plugs into, one of its wires is grey/blue (red arrow, hopefully can be seen in the photo), which is probably gear selector illumination as it wasn't connected to X6/1:

Looks like pin #2 at N40 should have a gray/red wire that goes to X6/1. Use your ohm meter to check for continuity (near zero resistance) between pin #2 and X6/1, if so, I'm getting more suspicious of the N40 relay (assuming fuse #9 is good).

Keep in mind that the electrical path is critical, but wire color is not. While rare, it's possible that at times the colors shown in the ETM may not be identical to what is on the car.

@gsxr, Dave, "fuse 9", that would be in the regular fuse box, correct?

Correct!

 

[Kyiv]

(assuming fuse #9 is good).

Pin #1 (30) on the connector that plugs into N40 reads 12 volts

Use your ohm meter to check for continuity (near zero resistance) between pin #2 and X6/1

I got a perfect zero ohm reading. There's also a separate, dedicated continuity test mode on the multimeter and it beeped when I connected red lid to pin #2 (58D) on the connector that plugs into N40 and black lid to X6/1

***
Also, @Jlaa, I connected multimeter's red lid to pin #4 (58d) and black lid to a ground point of the front ceiling light. I got zero volts and 27 ohm of resistance...


*All tests with headlights on, max brightness on the rheostat

 

[Jlaa]

I got a perfect zero ohm reading. There's also a separate, dedicated continuity test mode on the multimeter and it beeped when I connected red lid to pin #2 (58D) on the connector that plugs into N40 and black lid to X6/1

Great! So the GY/RD wire is good and is connected to x6/1.

***
Also, @Jlaa, I connected multimeter's red lid to pin #4 (58d) and black lid to a ground point of the front ceiling light. I got zero volts and 27 ohm of resistance...


*All tests with headlights on, max brightness on the rheostat

Hmmmmmm

- Do you also get zero volts measured between pin 4 (58d) and pin 3 (31) which is the ground point on the N40 connector?

- I wonder if the problem is either:
- Faulty N40 or
- something wrong with the wire between x6 (not x6/1) and pin 4 (58d)

Have you measures voltage at x6 yet? I kind of assume voltage at x6 is nice and near 12v because the illumination for other things like climate control work …. So either its the wire or the N40 relay itself…. Can u swap in another relay if you have one on hand?

 

[Jlaa]

@kiev - here is x6 (not to be confused with x6/1).

 

[Jlaa]

BTW @kiev --- just to be totally clear:

X6 is supposed to represent 58d -- meaning the illumination reference being fed TO N40 from other interior lamps like the climate control illumination and hazard illumination.

X6/1 is supposed to represent 58D -- meaning the illumination that N40 is supposed to be PROVIDING to the window switches, gear shift selector, fader, left and right air nozzles, etc.

I think the whole reason for N40 is to take some of the "illumination load" off the rheostat in the instrument cluster. N40 is supposed to "read" the amount of illumination that the rheostat is providing to the climate control / hazard / etc and try and "match" that same amount of illumination to the window switches, gear shift selector, fader, left and right air nozzles, etc.



Hope this makes sense. I think you are really close now. If pin 4 (58d) on the socket for N40 is at 0 volts but X6 measures 12 volts then there is something wrong with the "0.75 GY/BU" wire between x6 and pin4 (58d) on the socket for N40.

 

[Kyiv]

@jlla, first of all - for your enabling guidance.

That which Dave and I thought was X6/1 turns out to be just X6. I have to remeasure everything and find the damn X6/1... Will report back

 

[Jlaa]

@kiev -- also --- can you delete all this nightmare vampire-tap crap that dead-ends to nowhere?



This vaguely looks like someone previous to you was tapping off the 4-pin Z-connector for power for the Becker radio. In that connector is an illumination wire that connects directly to X6.

 

[Kyiv]

@kiev - here is x6 (not to be confused with x6/1).

Do you pull these diagrams from the same EPC application you shared with me?

 

[Jlaa]

Do you pull these diagrams from the same EPC application you shared with me?

The diagrams are from the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual...... about 75 meg.

Here: https://freescruz.com/.priv/W124/w124CD1/Program/ETM/ETM.pdf

 

[gsxr]

Adding pic of X6/1 location from the ETM:

 

[Kyiv]

So, beginning from scratch.


Measurements from pins of this connector that is circled in red, that plugs into N40 module. It has tiny digits stamped under each pin, numbering them. This is how I know what pin # I'm probing

• Pin #4 (58d) - I get about 7-8 volts whether I ground it to ceiling light ground point OR pin #3 (31). Your obedient servant is a little bit of an "idioto completo". When I was doing previous measurement that produced zero volts, I had the main instrument cluster cable disconnected, so that I could get said cluster more out of the way
• Pin #1 (30) - I get 12 volts
• Pin #2 (58D) to ground is zero volts. I assume this is normal, as it need N40 to be powered

I haven't located X6/1 yet. It doesn't seem to be where the picture that Dave posted in post #122 points, so I cant measure resistance between pin #2 (58D) and X6/1:



Lastly. When I plug the connector back onto N40 module, with instrument cluster connected and lights on, measuring X6 to any ground point I get zero volts. Despite pin #4 (58d) of the connector that plugs into N40 producing 7-8 volts. Therefore, it's either one, two, or all three of the above:

• N40 is bad
• a blue/gray cable between N40 and X6 is bad
• there is no continuity between pin #2 (58D) and X6/1

Am I grasping it correctly?

 

[Kyiv]

Or... brrrr... X6 feeds pin #4 (58d), which N40 transfers to pin #2 (58D), with pin #2 (58D) being powered by pin #1 (30)... In which case it's either one or all:

• N40 is bad
• pin #2 (58D) to X6/1 connection is bad
• X6/1 intersection is butchered

*** My heated rear window switch, which is also on X6/1 does illuminate Which means X6/1 does receive power from pin #2 (58D). So then X6/1 is somehow butchered and is the cause??

 

[Jlaa]

• Pin #4 (58d) - I get about 7-8 volts whether I ground it to ceiling light ground point OR pin #3 (31).

…When I plug the connector back onto N40 module, with instrument cluster connected and lights on, measuring X6 to any ground point I get zero volts. Despite pin #4 (58d) of the connector that plugs into N40 producing 7-8 volts.

I think you should definitely swap in a spare N40 to see if there’s any difference

*** My heated rear window switch, which is also on X6/1 does illuminate Which means X6/1 does receive power from pin #2 (58D). So then X6/1 is somehow butchered and is the cause??

I have an idea. @gsxr wondering what you think of the following idea:

Let’s also try and determine if x6/1 wiring is butchered. What if @kiev, with N40 relay removed, jumped pin 4 (58d) to pin 2 (58D) in the N40 connector? Then by counting which previously-dead-switches light up, he could see how much of x6/1 is butchered, if any.

BTW @kiev did you se post 119? Can you delete all that vampire tap crap to make sure none of those taps are shorting or breaking illumination wires?

 

[Kyiv]

@Jlaa, I read all of your posts and I totally appreciate you investing your time into my problem.

My mind is a little scattered between newborn and a 3 year old, wife, work, trying to grasp electricals (last time was in high school back in Ukraine), and other routine. So I still have to compartmentalize, before I get up to stream and in command of the whole topology

At some point over the last several days I did stare at vampire tap crap for 15 minutes, and I think you're right - it's connected to headunit power cable and not to anything else. So therefore, for meanwhile I "put it into a box and away" to unload my mind for a bit. I was planning and will take a look at that monkey job again.

For now I just ordered 2 different used N40s from eBay just to be safe.

@gsxr, Dave, do you approve of Jlaa's plan?

 

[Jlaa]

*** My heated rear window switch, which is also on X6/1 does illuminate Which means X6/1 does receive power from pin #2 (58D). So then X6/1 is somehow butchered and is the cause??

@gsxr pointed me to some "super secret 1993 and above 034 and 036 wiring diagrams" too. They are quite a bit harder to read.

24 Electrical Troubleshooting

According to these diagrams, the rear window defroster illumination is fed off of N40 pin4 (58d) which is tied to X6. So, therefore, the fact that your rear window defroster switch lights up should have no bearing on whether or not x6/1 has been butchered. I know this ""super secret 1993 and above 034 and 036 wiring diagram" seems to conflict with the "after 1/1986 w124 wiring diagram" we have been using but aside from the inconsistency about the rear window defroster switch, they seem largely to agree.

@Jlaa, I read all of your posts and I totally appreciate you investing your time into my problem.

No worries and you are welcome! I'm pretty much useless when it comes to anything else and I enjoy studying the electrical diagram.

At some point over the last several days I did stare at vampire tap crap for 15 minutes, and I think you're right - it's connected to headunit power cable and not to anything else.

Yeah. The reason why I mention the vampire tap crap and the headunit power cable is because I know the headunit power cable connector has an illumination wire in it as well --- we don't want the vampire tap crap to be munching on that illumination wire stuff.....

 

[gsxr]

Let’s also try and determine if x6/1 wiring is butchered. What if @kiev, with N40 relay removed, jumped pin 4 (58d) to pin 2 (58D) in the N40 connector? Then by counting which previously-dead-switches light up, he could see how much of x6/1 is butchered, if any.

In theory, this may work, but I would make the test short. I don't fully understand the function of N40 but I think it's to not route the entire current draw of all interior illumination through the rheostat in the cluster. Adding the full current wouldn't be good long term, and there's a tiny risk of blowing the red fuse in the cluster (not a big deal, but be aware of this).

I know this ""super secret 1993 and above 034 and 036 wiring diagram" seems to conflict with the "after 1/1986 w124 wiring diagram" we have been using but aside from the inconsistency about the rear window defroster switch, they seem largely to agree.

In general, the super-secret diagrams supercede the old ones. Especially if labeled .034/.036 as this particular one is! Also, it is possible that X6/1 was relocated on the .034/.036 vs the non-V8 models. If so, you're still on the hunt to locate the darn thing...

 

[Jlaa]

Let’s also try and determine if x6/1 wiring is butchered. What if @kiev, with N40 relay removed, jumped pin 4 (58d) to pin 2 (58D) in the N40 connector? Then by counting which previously-dead-switches light up, he could see how much of x6/1 is butchered, if any.

In theory, this may work, but I would make the test short. I don't fully understand the function of N40 but I think it's to not route the entire current draw of all interior illumination through the rheostat in the cluster. Adding the full current wouldn't be good long term, and there's a tiny risk of blowing the red fuse in the cluster (not a big deal, but be aware of this).

Yeah routing that current thru the rheostat, even though it is not much, has me a tad worried too. Another way to test the degree of butchered-uppedness of x6/1, perhaps even safer then, is to:

• Ensure everything in the car and the ignition is switched off
• Unplug instrument cluster / rheostat
• Remove N40 relay from its socket
• Apply the positive lead of an independent 12v power source OR a nine-volt-battery to N40-socket-pin2 (58D)
• Apply the negative lead of an independent 12v power source OR a nine-volt battery to car-ground

@gsxr @kiev, whaddya think?

Again the goal is just to see what lights up / what doesn't light up. Those are incandescent bulbs so who cares if a nine-volt-battery lights up the lights very weakly ...... we just want to know what wires are butchered, if any.

 

[gsxr]

Yeah routing that current thru the rheostat, even though it is not much, has me a tad worried too. Another way to test the degree of butchered-uppedness of x6/1, perhaps even safer then, is to:

• Ensure everything in the car and the ignition is switched off
• Unplug instrument cluster / rheostat
• Remove N40 relay from its socket
• Apply the positive lead of an independent 12v power source OR a nine-volt-battery to N40-socket-pin2 (58D)
• Apply the negative lead of an independent 12v power source OR a nine-volt battery to car-ground

@gsxr @kiev, whaddya think?

Again the goal is just to see what lights up / what doesn't light up. Those are incandescent bulbs so who cares if a nine-volt-battery lights up the lights very weakly ...... we just want to know what wires are butchered, if any.

Yes! This would appear to be safer... apply voltage to the output of N40 sockets, and see what lights up. If everything gets lit (that's a good thing, I think, according to kids today) then it would appear N40 was dead.

 

[Kyiv]

@Jlaa, thanks. I totally get the concept, but would like to ask: what do people usually use as convenient independent source of 12 volts? Do you then attach copper wire or some sort of old cables?

 

[kegmankipp]

@Jlaa, thanks. I totally get the concept, but would like to ask: what do people usually use as convenient independent source of 12 volts? Do you then attach copper wire or some sort of old cables?

I use a makita 12VDC battery

 

[Jlaa]

@Jlaa, thanks. I totally get the concept, but would like to ask: what do people usually use as convenient independent source of 12 volts? Do you then attach copper wire or some sort of old cables?

I have an el-cheapo variable voltage DC power supply that I picked up for cheap from Fry's Electronics back when they were in business. I think maybe I paid $25 for it. I have found COUNTLESS number of uses for it while tinkering with electronics / automotive electronics over the years ..... testing LED bulbs, powering radios, testing relays, making LED thingamabobbers for the kid's Halloween costumes, etc....



Here is a nicer on that I found on Amazon (still inexpensive) that even comes with test leads (wires): https://www.amazon.com/Variable-4Digital-Adjustable-Regulated-Switching/dp/B08FT2YH2B

 

[gsxr]

i need to stop clicking on Amazon links posted by @Jlaa .

 

[Jlaa]

i need to stop clicking on Amazon links posted by @Jlaa .

In that case I recommend this one. I have been eyeing it for some time now. The display is very clear (cool WHITE 7 segment LED) and it goes up to 300watts!!! (not really sure I will ever need that much power...) These came out on ali-express a few weeks ago but shipping costs are outrageous since they ship directly from across the ocean.

Now that the manufacturer has set up shop w/ Amazon and using Amazon stateside as distribution, the shipping costs are much more reasonable!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HYK2ZW3/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=A3928Q1W5C0PU0&th=1

 

[gsxr]

Well, I mean while we're , you really need one that can power the HVAC blower (~30A draw)... and the twin electric fans in front of the condenser. You know, because you might need that some day. With only 10A, you could only get medium speed... tsk.

 

[Jlaa]

I use a makita 12VDC battery

This is very cheap and clever as well!
@kiev in the event that you want to be cheap and clever, AND you have a shit-ton of cordless power tools in the garage that ostensibly use 18V or higher batteries (cuz, MOAR power, you know?) you could always hack together a rig to step down your Ryobi/Makita/Dewalt/Milwaukee 18+ volt batteries down to 12v ---- like so:

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/whats-your-best-buy-diy-garage-tools.11758/page-8#post-218726

 

[Kyiv]

Do you guys have/use a similar set of leads with your 12v power supplies? These are for multimeters, so they won't fit power supplies that, on a quick glance, require banana plugs.

Say I want to use a 9 volt battery, is there a set of leads that would neatly connect to it AND securely plug in a pin of an N40 connector? Or is using a speaker cable is as best as it gets?

 

[Jlaa]

Do you guys have/use a similar set of leads with your 12v power supplies? These are for multimeters, so they won't fit power supplies that, on a quick glance, require banana plugs.

Multimeters almost all take banana plugs --- they take both the "Shielded with plastic" kind of banana plugs and the "Unshielded" kind.
My power supply works with the UNSHIELDED banana plugs. Here I am using a set of UNSHIELDED banana leads (that came with my multimeter) with my power supply.



Note that I have another set of SHIELDED banana leads that work with my multimeter that DO NOT work with my power supply:



But you don't need banana leads to use with a power supply. You can unscrew the terminals and use any wire - like speaker wire -- with the power supply:

Say I want to use a 9 volt battery, is there a set of leads that would neatly connect to it AND securely plug in a pin of an N40 connector? Or is using a speaker cable is as best as it gets?

Just tape some wires to the 9v battery. If you feel like spending $4, buy this below. But honestly, when you insert the wires into the N40 socket, you're just touching the stuff for a second or three just to see what lights up.

 

[gsxr]

Just tape some wires to the 9v battery. If you feel like spending $4, buy this below. But honestly, when you insert the wires into the N40 socket, you're just touching the stuff for a second or three just to see what lights up.

This: ^^^

For test purposes, simple alligator-clip leads will suffice. We're talking low current here, and not something that will remain in the car long term.

Example:

https://smile.amazon.com/WGGE-WG-026-Pieces-Colors-Alligator/dp/B06XDM8BY1/

 

[Kyiv]

Today I received one of the 2 used N40S relays from eBay. No change. Rear defrost, recirculation, and hazard light switches light up. For some reason, center vent wheel no longer lights up... It did before.

I also powered 58D with a 9 volt battery (car battery and everything else was disconnected). Not a single light of ANY kind lit up. Total darkness.

When I powered 58d with same 9 volt battery, instrument cluster lit up relatively brightly AND hazard lights switch lit up dimly. Nothing else

@Jlaa?

 

[Jlaa]

I also powered 58D with a 9 volt battery (car battery and everything else was disconnected). Not a single light of ANY kind lit up. Total darkness.



@Jlaa?

I think this means you have a butchered x6/1. The center vent no longer lighting up might be a red herring …. But the fact that NOTHING lights up when energizing 58D means you have a break/cut in the wiring for x6/1. Your challenge is to find it. Start by deleting aftermarket crap.

EDIT - @kiev you can double check the hypothesis that x6/1 is butchered by using the multimeter to test for continuity between socket 58D and the positive lead for the little bulbs that are supposed to light up, like the gear selector bulb.

 

[Kyiv]

In my search for X6/1 I dropped 2 panels under the steering wheel/over driver's feet and observed this hell:


I believe that the dog is berried here. This sheath full of wires goes from around gear lever towards instrument cluster:





What the hell is this mess:



@Jlaa, you're Moses and I'm a Jew...

 

[gsxr]

That was a messy installation of an alarm system. I cringe any time I see this stuff, as it's often difficult to restore back to factory condition.

It could be responsible for your illumination woes, if they hacked into the blue/gray Holy Grail wires you have been chasing.

 

[Kyiv]

In that thick sheathing of wires, only a fat - all other cables in that sheath are skinny - purple/white cable was tapped into. Any idea what this cable "does"?

 

[Kyiv]

That was a messy installation of an alarm system. I cringe any time I see this stuff, as it's often difficult to restore back to factory condition.

It could be responsible for your illumination woes, if they hacked into the blue/gray Holy Grail wires you have been chasing.

There is no aftermarket alarm on my car currently and there wasn't any when I bought it in the summer of 2014. Illumination issue was there from day 1 of my ownership. I'm guessing when the alarm was "deactivated", somehow it took illumination with it. Likely illumination was working when the alarm was installed or the owner of the car would have noticed and taken it back.... or not...

 

[Kyiv]

A few more photos just for the record. I removed carpeting and dead pedal. Felt good to vacuum in there.

 

[Kyiv]

@Jlaa and @gsxr, what's the correct way to go about cleaning this up? Just start chopping away at a obviously aftermarket stuff or is it possible this might have unintended consequences?

I'm itching to reconnect into a direct path thick purple/white cable, cutting orange one from the loop (it's not a factory cable I believe)? Should I try? I've zero experience tinkering with electrics, so I need some basic guidance and encouragement...

 

[Jlaa]

In my search for X6/1 I dropped 2 panels under the steering wheel/over driver's feet and observed this hell:
View attachment 131311

I believe that the dog is berried here. This sheath full of wires goes from around gear lever towards instrument cluster:
View attachment 131313
View attachment 131312 View attachment 131314
View attachment 131315


What the hell is this mess:
View attachment 131316


@Jlaa, you're Moses and I'm a Jew...

In that thick sheathing of wires, only a fat - all other cables in that sheath are skinny - purple/white cable was tapped into. Any idea what this cable "does"?

View attachment 131317

ARRRRRGHHHHH!!!!! Kill it! Kill it with .... uh..... don't use fire. But kill all that crap!!!
I didn't do a COMPLETE search but I DID do a search of .034 specific wiring diagrams for 1993-1995 .034 - HERE ---> 24 Electrical Troubleshooting

Note that Purple is "vi" and that the purple wire you speak of is mixed with a different color (is it white? maybe grey?) If you open up each of the diagrams you can search (control-F) for "/vi" --- and in the Instrument Cluster diagrams part 2, I found a 0.75mm thick wire (this is significant as most of the wires are only 0.5mm) that is GY/VI that goes to S1 below which is "Exterior Lamp Switch":



Also in the Illumination Diagrams for .034/.036, N7 has a 0.75mm GY/VI wire going to it ---- N7 is the bulb-out-warning module:



I did not do a comprehensive search but I think there is a process you can use --- go to each diagram and search for "/vi" ......

 

[Jlaa]

@Jlaa and @gsxr, what's the correct way to go about cleaning this up? Just start chopping away at a obviously aftermarket stuff or is it possible this might have unintended consequences?

I'm itching to reconnect into a direct path thick purple/white cable, cutting orange one from the loop? Should I try? I've zero experience tinkering with electrics, so I need some basic guidance and encouragement...

OK let's take it one step at a time since you are new to electrical stuff. Let's delete stuff one by one --- going from least-likely-to-impact to more-likely to impact.

Can you identify all the dead ends first? Maybe delete all the dead-ends first (because you know that won't impact anything) and then take some pictures and see where that gets us.... what do you think @gsxr?