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Best caps and rotors- and where to buy them???
- Thread starter samiam44
- Start date
I just took a set of Bosch caps and rotors off my car that I had swapped during troubleshooting over the past few weeks. I bought them used and they appeared to be good (pics).
I have since learned never to put a used part on a car and presume it's good just by the looks of it. It was causing a serious missing problem that was solved with the re-installation of the existing caps and rotors. I would be interested in opinions on whether others have had bad experiences with Bosch caps and what alternatives may be better.
I have since learned never to put a used part on a car and presume it's good just by the looks of it. It was causing a serious missing problem that was solved with the re-installation of the existing caps and rotors. I would be interested in opinions on whether others have had bad experiences with Bosch caps and what alternatives may be better.
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I recently had a brand-new, out of the box, Bosch cap that was defective. Looked perfect - still does. Measured fine via ohm meter. Only caused an intermittent misfire at hot idle, zero issue under load, at WOT, or above 2k. Drove me absolutely batty trying to diagnose it and took about 5 hours total time. Don't think I will be buying Bosch caps again, for $90 each I expect new ones to actually, you know, WORK.
Dunno what the best alternate brand is, or if OE (likely Bosch as well) would be any better kwality.
Dunno what the best alternate brand is, or if OE (likely Bosch as well) would be any better kwality.
Bosch quality control is hit and miss lately with their "Global" manufacturing plants.
Beru caps don't have the orange with black cover set up
Bremi is still made in Germany and I have 3 years on mine (cap/rotor set.)
Autohaus AZ has both for the same money ($221),
but a seller on e-bay that I can recommend has the cap/rotor set for $199 total shipped
Mine look good still, but I just ordered a back up set in case this guy runs out at some point.
Best price I've seen over the last few years.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=221460885179
Beru caps don't have the orange with black cover set up
Bremi is still made in Germany and I have 3 years on mine (cap/rotor set.)
Autohaus AZ has both for the same money ($221),
but a seller on e-bay that I can recommend has the cap/rotor set for $199 total shipped
Mine look good still, but I just ordered a back up set in case this guy runs out at some point.
Best price I've seen over the last few years.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=221460885179
Thanks Clark, just ordered a pair of caps & rotors from that ebay site. Good price! In fact when I read the ebay listing, I realized I know that store and I have shopped there as it is less than an hour from my home. Yes, they have a brick and mortar store too. Couple weeks ago I called on a Saturday morning and they had 4 lug bolts for my 124 diesel in stock, just what I needed (don't ask...). They have had almost everything I've asked them for in stock for my E90, my 124's, and my XC70 - of course this was all "routine" stuff like brake disks and pads, oil and air filters, etc. But they also have MB coolant, BMW coolant, Wurth products, Lubro Moly products, etc. Great little store which caters to enthusiasts. In the middle of relative nowhere, surprisingly.
I recently had a brand-new, out of the box, Bosch cap that was defective. Looked perfect - still does. Measured fine via ohm meter. Only caused an intermittent misfire at hot idle, zero issue under load, at WOT, or above 2k. Drove me absolutely batty trying to diagnose it and took about 5 hours total time. Don't think I will be buying Bosch caps again, for $90 each I expect new ones to actually, you know, WORK.
Dunno what the best alternate brand is, or if OE (likely Bosch as well) would be any better kwality.
Thats very interresting. While trusting most of the experienced M119 DIYs guys in the past, and therefor ONLY used Bosch Parts for caps/rotors/coils, i have the very same issue.
I cant track it down further. I replaced EVERYTHING but the EZL unit itself. Very same miss, only when the engine is HOT and around idle or slightly raised idle speed.
Maybe i should really try the BREMI Stuff. Bosch Rotor and Bremi caps maybe? Or is it the rotor that fails.
Currently i can say that even my old E420, that had the caps from inside totally covered with Oil residues, due to leaking cam seals, ran BETTER.
I mean there was no stumble or miss at all that was very noticable like with my current engine in the 500E. It maybe had a very slight miss that happened every 2-3 minutes but thats it.
Christian, Use only non resistor plugs (no "R" anywhere in the type designation). If you haven't already done so, open your spark plug gaps to 1-1.1mm. If it improves or repairs your condition, you're welcome. If that makes your problem worse, you have other issues to find and correct, there will be no need to go back in and close the gaps to spec (0.8mm).
Best,
Klink
Best,
Klink
To clarify... the hot idle misfire I experienced with the new cap was severe, shaking the engine, and making you wonder if the car would leave the stoplight or not. Once past 2000rpm, at light load or full load, it was fine. All the problems went away when I replaced the one new cap with a good used one. (!!)
A big thanks to Clark and Chris for the recommendation and confirmation of an excellent seller!
While looking at the listing, I noticed another one for the same part at a better price, so I called AI Autoparts to see what is going on. It turns out that both parts were the same, so I bought the less expensive set. I was told that they are often on sale and even if they are not, you can call and they may be able to give us the better price.
The URL that I purchased from is http://www.ebay.com/itm/371078786854?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, though I noticed that the price is no longer the 10% off price. I was told that they are having problems with ebay sales pricing not staying in place, so a call to them should be worth $20 off for a shipped price of $179.10. Their phone number is 866-699-0100.
Even though I have a brand new set of Bosch parts on the shelf, this was too good of a deal to pass up on, especially since others have been having problems with the Bosch parts (that I paid about $240 for!).
While looking at the listing, I noticed another one for the same part at a better price, so I called AI Autoparts to see what is going on. It turns out that both parts were the same, so I bought the less expensive set. I was told that they are often on sale and even if they are not, you can call and they may be able to give us the better price.
The URL that I purchased from is http://www.ebay.com/itm/371078786854?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, though I noticed that the price is no longer the 10% off price. I was told that they are having problems with ebay sales pricing not staying in place, so a call to them should be worth $20 off for a shipped price of $179.10. Their phone number is 866-699-0100.
Even though I have a brand new set of Bosch parts on the shelf, this was too good of a deal to pass up on, especially since others have been having problems with the Bosch parts (that I paid about $240 for!).
Just a quick follow up to let all of you know that the parts I received are identical to Clark's.
I got the Brembi stuff from ebay. I was not real happy on the hole finish- burr from where they drill the rotor button. But I cleaned it up.. still a burr on the ID of the hole where the drill bit came through. Car runs sooo much smoother. The rotor button was fried and I was getting slight miss/hesitation. Let it sit for a couple of days with rain outside and it was horrible.
I'll be interested on how my 500e runs.. if new mm's fix the intermideant miss.
Michael
I'll be interested on how my 500e runs.. if new mm's fix the intermideant miss.
Michael
Got My Brembi's via the above Ebay Link on Saturday replaced on Sunday - now running better than ever - just recently it was the classic symptoms, no power below 2K rev's until warm.
The Cap/Rotor's I took off, were Bosch AND the screws/parts all looked reasobably new - I have only had the car 9 months, I think the dealer who sold it to me replaced them
Looking at this thread and other experiences and Bosch moving to Global Production, I think Bosch needs to moved to Suspect parts - at least for Cap/Rotors. I have the old parts and can post pics if anyone wishes, but the RH side Cap did not look great.
Oh and *Thanks* Again Clark!
The Cap/Rotor's I took off, were Bosch AND the screws/parts all looked reasobably new - I have only had the car 9 months, I think the dealer who sold it to me replaced them
Looking at this thread and other experiences and Bosch moving to Global Production, I think Bosch needs to moved to Suspect parts - at least for Cap/Rotors. I have the old parts and can post pics if anyone wishes, but the RH side Cap did not look great.
Oh and *Thanks* Again Clark!
Thanks for info, just ordered a set too. $179.91 shipped!
The never ending story. 
I've posted a number of replies on this topic over the years. Here is another good thread on this:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...ts-on-engine-rotors-how-to-take-them-out-HELP
As you can see Cobra is happy with the Bremi parts too.
I am happy with the rotor bolt upgrade I did to stainless steel (A2) bolts (..prolly the cheapest upgrade ever on the M119)
The big problem with the caps is trapped moisture. The slots in the lower portion doesn't give any ventilation, they are for draining, but when is drainage needed here?! Next for me is to replicate those slots in the upper section of the cap to get ventilation. Yes, it may sound strange, but it is the same insulation or distance to the surrounded metal parts as for the lower slots. The supressor covers is the only protection against any fluid from top, and the engine is never flushed/flooded with water anyway. I have located the proper pin cutter and cutting disc for the Dreml with correct size to make these slots. I'll post when done.
-a-
I've posted a number of replies on this topic over the years. Here is another good thread on this:http://www.500eboard.com/forums/sho...ts-on-engine-rotors-how-to-take-them-out-HELP
As you can see Cobra is happy with the Bremi parts too.
I am happy with the rotor bolt upgrade I did to stainless steel (A2) bolts (..prolly the cheapest upgrade ever on the M119)
The big problem with the caps is trapped moisture. The slots in the lower portion doesn't give any ventilation, they are for draining, but when is drainage needed here?! Next for me is to replicate those slots in the upper section of the cap to get ventilation. Yes, it may sound strange, but it is the same insulation or distance to the surrounded metal parts as for the lower slots. The supressor covers is the only protection against any fluid from top, and the engine is never flushed/flooded with water anyway. I have located the proper pin cutter and cutting disc for the Dreml with correct size to make these slots. I'll post when done.
-a-
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it does sound strange to me with the venting- are you installing them on a low humidity day?
Why did you go with stainless steel bolts? They are usually softer and can gale more than the plated allen bolts(correctly called SHCS - socket head cap screws).
At least you probably have a better selection available metric fasteners than we do in the USA!
Michael
Why did you go with stainless steel bolts? They are usually softer and can gale more than the plated allen bolts(correctly called SHCS - socket head cap screws).
At least you probably have a better selection available metric fasteners than we do in the USA!
Michael
Michael,
I've explained the moisture problems thoroughly in the link enclosed in my previous post, this one; http://www.500eboard.com/forums/show...-them-out-HELP
The amount of moisture build-up, grade of problem, and lifespan of the caps & rotors depends on two things - climate and time of storage. The drier climate it is, and the shorter storage the car has, the better it is.
The reason for changing to SS bolts is because the OE bolts simply corroded away and broke (also shown in that post). Which next led to a total breakdown in one case, and lost key grip later on. I am not the only one facing this problems, but so far it appears that I am the only one challenging the problem instead of pouring out money on this every year.
Yes, it may be easier to get metric SS bolts over here. However, in Morepay you don't get a few bolts at the hardware store, you have to buy a box with 3-400 bolts!? So, I went to a friend running mountain bike shop and got 20-30 bolts in my hand.
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Arnt, are your SS bolts 3mm socket head, or 4mm socket head?
The worst part about the stock rotor bolts is the stupid 3mm socket head!!!
Dave,
Replacing with 5 mm SS bolts is a "quattro Win-Win" so to say.
- no corrosion eliminates the risk for bolt fracture
- increased tool size from 3 to 4 mm (...the poor 3 mm allen tool can be saved for what it is durable for)
- the 4 mm key grip gives a better control on the bolt torque
- it is a badly cheap modification - which can be moved along to the next rotor replacement
FYI to all; a complete set of Bosch rotor & caps is $1.000 at the MB stealer here in Morepay! So one thing is the misfiring, but next does the cost kill the fun completely.
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Just installed my new Bremi caps/rotors
3 years of use on first set, can't say how many miles for sure.
Arcing on two towers of the left bank, car ran perfect and never had a miss.
But........... after short trips, sitting 10 minutes I had a brief no start condition 3 times the last 6 months
I'm thinking moisture, as I only drive it 3 to 4 times a week for short trips, and I live across from the beach
Left bank
Right bank
3 years of use on first set, can't say how many miles for sure.
Arcing on two towers of the left bank, car ran perfect and never had a miss.
But........... after short trips, sitting 10 minutes I had a brief no start condition 3 times the last 6 months
I'm thinking moisture, as I only drive it 3 to 4 times a week for short trips, and I live across from the beach
Left bank
Right bank
Hey guys as of right now there is a sale from AIautoparts for bremi caps and rotors. They require new bracket for installation with part code "06" instead of "04". 179$!! Steal! They usually have them for 199! Just ordered mine last night!
I believe this eBay seller has been mentioned before as a good source for Bremi caps and rotors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371151237990?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I believe if you call them they will sell them for $179 as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/371151237990?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I believe if you call them they will sell them for $179 as well.
Same seller , yes correct
Can anyone please be more specific on this point. Is there a separate part I need to buy to make this set work? If so, what is the part number? TIA.
If your cap n rotor are recently new the bracket should be updated , in the ebay description the seller describes what they mean by updated bracket , be back later to explain more to u
See post #17 above. They told me that they would give 500eboard members this price even if the sale is not currently running if we give them a call at 866-699-0100.
No they don't they tell you to verify that you have the correct the bracket but not how to do that so??
You could just remove your bracket and check the part number.
cast on the rear of the bracket
But 94 should already have the updated brackets.
199.974 up to engine# 119974-12-001475
Old part# 119-158-0440
New updated part# 119-158-0640
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New version, note the knurled threaded inserts. The old brackets had hex nuts.
This is an example of the early mount, it's a M103 but it shows the pressed in hex nuts
same as the early M119 0440 part
Thanks for that Clark. It has been confusing to say the least to see the references on every site to the different brackets but not a single thing other than a part number that I could find no reference telling me where it was on the bracket to go on.
At the least now I can look at the bracket and tell the difference!
Now would some one tell me why the nuts but not the inserts are a problem here that can potentially cause a FIRE???
Already answered here 4 days ago, post #3: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6727
and here a year ago, post #16: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4559&highlight=rotor bolts
and here a year ago, post #16: http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4559&highlight=rotor bolts
Hey Clark....where does one find the engine number?
Thanks!
Thanks!
