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Control the fate of the lower control arm

Good discussion: I plan to buy the pair of OEM LCAs and save for the rainy day in case TCA hits the fan.

But, I just have to ask: Did you check the parts for eco-junk?

:shocking:
 
If you haven't installed them yet... send 'em back. I don't know how cheap TRW-branded LCA's are, but at $185 each for Genuine MB delivered, there can't be enough savings to make it worth the gamble.

BTW - the OE LCA's now have clear boots, but are otherwise identical to the original LCA's. I don't think it matters if the boot is clear or not, as long as it stays in place through full range of motion.

:duck:
Have you installed the TRW LCA's yet? If not, I would be very interested to see pictures posted of TRWs current aftermarket 124 control arms when they get there etc if you don't mind. I know that my recent Febi control arms :rolleyes: had addressed the crap clear boot issues.


I Already installed them a few weeks ago. They seemed to be in good condition. The boots were black and felt exactly how I would expect for a new ball joint boot and seemed similar in quality to the genuine MB ball joints I installed last year on my W123.

I paid $100 for both of them from a local guy who bought them years ago but ended up selling his W124 and never needed them. So far they seem fine but its only been a few hundred miles on them.
 
I paid $100 for both of them from a local guy who bought them years ago but ended up selling his W124 and never needed them. So far they seem fine but its only been a few hundred miles on them.
If they were old stock, from many years ago, they might be OK. I think the Febis changed somewhere between 5-10 years ago, and I think the old version was not bad. The newer ones have had too many reports of early ball joint faliure, as early as 4kmi was reported on PeachParts.

Also, at $100/pair vs $400.... yeah, that would be enticing!

:gsxrock:
 
Well, except for the clear TRW-branded boots on the OE LCA's, which are made from flexible, transparent aluminum and immune to all forms of degradation or penetration.

:mushroom1: :mushroom1: :mushroom1:
 
If the late, non-replaceable ball joint has zero play, and no visible dirt/debris has entered when the torn boot is removed... it's definitely worth a try cleaning, re-greasing, and replacing the boot with new OE. If so, check the ball joint for play at each oil change afterwards. There is usually plenty of warning (i.e., measurable play) before they get anywhere near failure - at least for the OE ball joints (not aftermarket). If there is ANY play... the entire LCA is junk. And if significant dirt/debris has entered... I wouldn't risk it. Re-booting is generally a good idea if you catch it early and the tear is small.

That said, since the price dropped on new late-style OE LCA's, if the boot is torn, and rubber bushings are tired... I'd just shell out for complete new LCA's. Back when they were $500 each, yeah, I'd re-boot them (and replace the bushings with OEM Lemforder). ~$125 per side and it was refreshed, ready to roll. Now the Lemforder bushings are aftermarket (not OEM), and new OE MB LCA's are $185 each delivered from Napsterville - not worth messing with while you can still get them at these prices:

https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-control-arm-1243303407
1990-2002 Mercedes-Benz Control Arm 124-330-35-07 | MB OEM Parts


Sportline versions with stiffer bushings are still pushing $400 each discount ($525 MSRP).

1993-1994 Mercedes-Benz Lower Control Arm 124-330-36-07 | MB OEM Parts
https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-lower-control-arm-1243303707
What are these Sportline LCAs relative to the stock 500E ones??
 
What are these Sportline LCAs relative to the stock 500E ones??
The Sportline version have much stiffer rubber bushings. Otherwise they are identical (assuming you order the correct part numbers; there is an early & late style for both standard and Sportline).

:rugby:
 
I had sportline LCAs recently installed on my 1994 wagon about a week ago after being unable to source new, regular MB LCAs for both sides. I didn't want to install a good MB LCA on one side and an inferior aftermarket one on the other side. Unfortunately I only drove the car a couple of times after getting the new LCAs installed before a coolant hose developed a leak (my version of luck is that the low coolant light came on just as I was in front of my house).

I have one twisty, no traffic lights section of my commute and it seemed like the handling felt very tight (in a good way), but I couldn't really push the car so not sure if it's just a placebo effect. I also have the lightweight CLK wheels and good, new Michelin rubber (plus a sportline steering wheel) so the handling is getting pretty good (for a pedestrian S124).
 
The Sportline version have much stiffer rubber bushings. Otherwise they are identical (assuming you order the correct part numbers; there is an early & late style for both standard and Sportline).

:rugby:
Thanks, Dave. Any noticeable difference in ride?
 
Thanks, Dave. Any noticeable difference in ride?
It's been a LONG time since I was able to do a back-to-back comparison, but I recall a noticeable change in firmness. Not drastic, not harsh, but definitely more on the firm side.

Would love to get Melville's feedback as he just installed the Sportline LCA's on his wagon!

:3gears:
 
It's been a LONG time since I was able to do a back-to-back comparison, but I recall a noticeable change in firmness. Not drastic, not harsh, but definitely more on the firm side.

Would love to get Melville's feedback as he just installed the Sportline LCA's on his wagon!

I took my freshly be-Sportlined LCA wagon to work today. It's not a long drive, and with kids and wife in the car, I couldn't exactly do much aggressive driving. So my initial feedback is somewhat limited by circumstances (and by experience--I'm no expert about suspension so I'm sure others would notice things that are invisible to me).

That being said, it did seem like I was getting more feedback from the road. Small bumps etc. were more noticeable. Depending on your preferences, I guess that could be good or bad. Either you enjoy the more tactile driving experience, or you are annoyed at losing a softer ride. However, it's not a night and day difference.

Also, I don't know if it was just more noticeable to me via the steering wheel or to occupants as well. (I wasn't about to ask my wife if the expensive Sportline LCAs I just had installed are causing her to have an uncomfortable ride.)
 
My 1994 E320 was showing excessive steering play initially. Later, I could hear a click sound when stoping or making sharp turns. When parked, if I turned the steering wheel back and forth, I could hear it too. Finally, decided to find out what went wrong. Lift the front end and, to my surprise, the whole tire was so loose when shaking horizontally. Took the tire off and shook the brake rotor, I could see that it was the tie-rod. The rubber boot was intact but it was worn with a large play.

Took it out and replaced it with Lemfoeder. The worn out one was by TRW. Typically, I see tie-rods worn out due to broken rubber boots, but this is the first time I see a worn tie-rod with good rubber boot. This probably indicates the poor quality of the alloy used by TRW in making tie-rods.

Don't go cheap with tie-rods, which is the lesson here.

jftu105
 
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MB are available and not too overpriced (at least when I did the front end replacement a year or so ago)
 
One of the W124 (non-Sportline) front lower control arms is now NLA from MB. I noted this in another thread last week.
 
One of the W124 (non-Sportline) front lower control arms is now NLA from MB. I noted this in another thread last week.

Update
124-330-34-07 - left LCA, non-sportline - still available from MB for $186, shipped --- mboemparts.com --- as Gerry notes.
124-330-35-07 - right LCA, non-sportline - NLA but still available from the ebay link below for $214 shipped. This is probably Mercedes Benz of Daytona Beach.


I have a fresh set of control arms on my car (new in 2017) and now I have another brand new set for spares.

For whatever reason, the casting on the balljoint part is ever so slightly different.
My left spare was made in Slovenia in May 2018
My right spare was made in Slovenia in August 2018

However, you can see that the cast in letters for "TRWE" is much more crisp and distinct on my right one than on my left one. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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If the late, non-replaceable ball joint has zero play, and no visible dirt/debris has entered when the torn boot is removed... it's definitely worth a try cleaning, re-greasing, and replacing the boot with new OE. If so, check the ball joint for play at each oil change afterwards. There is usually plenty of warning (i.e., measurable play) before they get anywhere near failure - at least for the OE ball joints (not aftermarket). If there is ANY play... the entire LCA is junk. And if significant dirt/debris has entered... I wouldn't risk it. Re-booting is generally a good idea if you catch it early and the tear is small.

That said, since the price dropped on new late-style OE LCA's, if the boot is torn, and rubber bushings are tired... I'd just shell out for complete new LCA's. Back when they were $500 each, yeah, I'd re-boot them (and replace the bushings with OEM Lemforder). ~$125 per side and it was refreshed, ready to roll. Now the Lemforder bushings are aftermarket (not OEM), and new OE MB LCA's are $185 each delivered from Napsterville - not worth messing with while you can still get them at these prices:

https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-control-arm-1243303407
1990-2002 Mercedes-Benz Control Arm 124-330-35-07 | MB OEM Parts


Sportline versions with stiffer bushings are still pushing $400 each discount ($525 MSRP).

1990-1994 Mercedes-Benz Lower Control Arm 124-330-36-07 | MB OEM Parts
https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-lower-control-arm-1243303707
Now that the control arms are NLA, what are the best choices if the boots are intact, the ball joint is loose, and bushings are shot?
They still have the MB ball joints, not sure about the bushings.
 
Now that the control arms are NLA, what are the best choices if the boots are intact, the ball joint is loose, and bushings are shot?
They still have the MB ball joints, not sure about the bushings.
The late control arms have ball joints which are not replaceable. If there is excess play in the BJ, it cannot be repaired. I've yet to find a late LCA with a failed BJ though. How exactly is it "loose"? Click here to see a bad ball joint, that is on a 210/211, but the concept is the same on the 124.

If you really have failed BJ's, one option would be to source good used LCA's, and replace the boots proactively. The bushings probably don't need to be replaced unless they are visibly failing, but you could do those as well, it's a medium-level DIY.

As a last resort you could get new early-style LCA's and grind 3-5mm off of the face of them to allow proper clearance.

:seesaw:

 
The late control arms have ball joints which are not replaceable. If there is excess play in the BJ, it cannot be repaired. I've yet to find a late LCA with a failed BJ though. How exactly is it "loose"? Click here to see a bad ball joint, that is on a 210/211, but the concept is the same on the 124.

If you really have failed BJ's, one option would be to source good used LCA's, and replace the boots proactively. The bushings probably don't need to be replaced unless they are visibly failing, but you could do those as well, it's a medium-level DIY.

As a last resort you could get new early-style LCA's and grind 3-5mm off of the face of them to allow proper clearance.

:seesaw:

[MEDI
The late control arms have ball joints which are not replaceable. If there is excess play in the BJ, it cannot be repaired. I've yet to find a late LCA with a failed BJ though. How exactly is it "loose"? Click here to see a bad ball joint, that is on a 210/211, but the concept is the same on the 124.

If you really have failed BJ's, one option would be to source good used LCA's, and replace the boots proactively. The bushings probably don't need to be replaced unless they are visibly failing, but you could do those as well, it's a medium-level DIY.

As a last resort you could get new early-style LCA's and grind 3-5mm off of the face of them to allow proper clearance.

:seesaw:

Thanks gsxr. I need to check if mine are early or late since; it's the 1995 E320, and I'll go from there.
I know it's an uphill task to find good, used LCAs in Atlanta, so I'll lean more towards getting new ones.
 
Thanks gsxr. I need to check if mine are early or late since; it's the 1995 E320, and I'll go from there.
I know it's an uphill task to find good, used LCAs in Atlanta, so I'll lean more towards getting new ones.
Your 1995 E320 came with the late style from the factory, and unless a previous owner/shop installed the wrong ones, should still have them.

:strawberry:
 
I am going to begin my search for new LCAs. I do not like what I saw in earlier posts about the Febi's, the new ones are NLA from the manufacturer, used ones are out of the question, so where do I go from here?
Are there any other reliable sources to get these LCAs?
 
I am going to begin my search for new LCAs. I do not like what I saw in earlier posts about the Febi's, the new ones are NLA from the manufacturer, used ones are out of the question, so where do I go from here?
Are there any other reliable sources to get these LCAs?

These are genuine arms from MB of Daytona Beach:



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

If it wasn't clear in post 68, I just bought the NLA control arms from MB Daytona Beach b/c they had NOS sitting in their inventory in Florida. I bought them from MB Daytona Beach's ebay ad. Their ebay ad is still up.
 
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Sportline LCAs: 124 330 3607, 3707

If someone was REALLY motivated, couldn’t they buy a pair of Sportline LCAs, press out the harder bushings and install a set of new “correct” bushings (124 330 06 75) and sell the Sportline bushing set to a 6cyl person who wanted to upgrade?

When all was said and done you‘ll have spent ~what the non-Sportline LCAs cost ~1 year ago...
 
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Nice idea, I thought of something like that but decided not to. It's true that necessity is the mother of invention but, i would hate to go that route. Besides I just realized with the late style LCAs it is impossible to replace rhe ball joints, because they are welded into the control arm
 
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I must be missing something obvious.

Why don't you just buy 124-330-34-07 and 124-330-35-07 from MB of Daytona Beach? They seem to have NOS in their inventory.
 
Guys, something seems a little fishy here. First off, the EPC shows the same part number for both Sportline and non sportline models. 124 330 34 07 and 124 330 35 07. There are 4 entries on the EPC , 2 right side and 2 left side but same part for both models. At least this applies to my car, a 1994 124.032.

Secondly: I just spoke to the parts counter at my dealer and both arms are available. 124-330-34-07 in US warehouse and 124-330-35-07 in Germany (73 on hand). Maybe I'm missing something ?

Regards,

Peter Weissman
 
Guys, something seems a little fishy here. First off, the EPC shows the same part number for both Sportline and non sportline models. 124 330 34 07 and 124 330 35 07. There are 4 entries on the EPC , 2 right side and 2 left side but same part for both models. At least this applies to my car, a 1994 124.032.
This is normal. The late-build Sportline models reverted back to the standard LCA's, in early 1994 USA model year. So, if your VIN is past the C018228 cutoff, it would only show the 34/35 LCA's with or without Sportline.


Secondly I just spoke to the parts counter at my dealer and both arms are available. XXX 34 07 in US warehouse and XXX 35 07 in Germany ( 73 on hand ). Maybe I'm missing something ?
Really? 73 available of the #35? If so, that is is great news - maybe MB had another production run!

:deniro:
 
My car is C242314, so i guess, I fall into 34/35 category
Yup! And to clarify... you can use the Sportline LCA's (36/37) if desired, they will be noticeably firmer though, and double the cost.

However, if you can get a pair of standard 34/35 from the dealer as Peter mentioned above, that would be the cheaper/easier route. You'd need to email Naperville and ask them to change their website to allow ordering again, it still shows "Discontinued Product":


:apl:
 
Depressing news: Someone ordered a pair of the EARLY style LCA's (1243303007, 1243303107), Lemforder brand, and they are now made in Taiwan. Yes, Lemforder Made In Taiwan. Pricing is $130-$150 each for the Taiwan LCA's depending on the vendor. Photos will be added to my website soon.

The OE Genuine early LCA's are still available, but not cheap. Left side is $167 MSRP, right is $450 (!). Discount for the pair from Napsterville would be ~$460.

Again, this is for the EARLY style, used on early 500E with 300mm brakes and all 124's with M103 or diesel engines. Assuming the late style is still available per Peter's post #85 above, that would be the preferred option for *any* year/model 124/201/129 chassis.
 
Depressing news: Someone ordered a pair of the EARLY style LCA's (1243303007, 1243303107), Lemforder brand, and they are now made in Taiwan. Yes, Lemforder Made In Taiwan. Pricing is $130-$150 each for the Taiwan LCA's depending on the vendor.

The OE Genuine early LCA's are still available, but not cheap. Left side is $167 MSRP, right is $450 (!). Discount for the pair from Napsterville would be ~$460.

Again, this is for the EARLY style, used on early 500E with 300mm brakes and all 124's with M103 or diesel engines. Assuming the late style is still available per Peter's post #85 above, that would be the preferred option for *any* year/model 124/201/129 chassis.

I wonder if these are really made in China, and then shipped over to Taiwan for one last "assembly operation" so that the part can be labelled as being made in Taiwan as opposed to being made in China (and therefore avoid any tariff / trade war issues.).

Doing so would be similar to what happens in the computer / electronics industry in order to get stuff listed on GSA or have stuff be able to qualify for compliance w/ JITC / FIPS / etc.
 
I wonder if these are really made in China, and then shipped over to Taiwan for one last "assembly operation" so that the part can be labelled as being made in Taiwan as opposed to being made in China (and therefore avoid any tariff / trade war issues.).
Yeah - one unexpected side effect of the tariffs, is that actual COO can be whitewashed to technically comply with the rules. More scary would be China/Taiwan produced parts, assembled in Germany, and labeled as "Made in Germany". Hope it doesn't come to that.


Doing so would be similar to what happens in the computer / electronics industry in order to get stuff listed on GSA or have stuff be able to qualify for compliance w/ JITC / FIPS / etc.
Heh. Yeah... some computer mfr's are getting creative with this stuff to avoid tariffs.

:duck:
 
Secondly: I just spoke to the parts counter at my dealer and both arms are available. 124-330-34-07 in US warehouse and 124-330-35-07 in Germany (73 on hand). Maybe I'm missing something ?

Peter Weissman
Someone else confirmed through their local dealership that yes, both sides are currently available. This is great news, but at the moment the RevolutionParts websites (Naperville, Husker, MB Portland, etc) are all showing the #35 as "Discontinued". You'll need to contact the online vendors and try to get them to fix their site if you want to place an order. Get 'em while you can, there's no word if/when they might go NLA, or if the price might go back to $450+... MB does major price updates on Jan-1 so we'll see what happens in a few weeks.

:watchdrama:
 
As of early February 2020, my local dealership parts counter confirmed there were 31 in Germany warehouses for right LCA 124-330-35-07. That was six weeks ago, so someone will need to contact a live person to confirm current inventory levels / availability in Paragon. Seriously, don't try to do this online via web stores.

Side note, I emailed Naperville in early Feb after my dealer confirmed quantities. Asked Naper to fix their website to allow orders. Naperville never replied.

:oldman:
 
As of early February 2020, my local dealership parts counter confirmed there were 31 in Germany warehouses for right LCA 124-330-35-07. That was six weeks ago, so someone will need to contact a live person to confirm current inventory levels / availability in Paragon. Seriously, don't try to do this online via web stores.

Side note, I emailed Naperville in early Feb after my dealer confirmed quantities. Asked Naper to fix their website to allow orders. Naperville never replied.

Absolutely! I just spoke with the parts manager at MB of Orlando (in Maitland), and was told that the magic MB parts inventory/availability system (Paragon I assume but he didn't say) indicates there are a grand total of *TWO* of the 35/right side LCAs at MB dealerships in the United States (I think he mentioned somewhere in Illinois and Texas), and they were blocked for ordering, meaning those dealerships will not send them out to other dealerships looking for them. BUT, apparently there are 15 in Germany. And, of course, plenty of 24/left side LCAs all over the place. I asked him to order a set for me, roughly $250 each. UGH!

:thumbsdown:
 
How do you know if I need the early or 1243303007 or the late style 1243303407 ???
300mm front brakes work with the early LCA.

320-334mm front brakes need the late LCA (or, grinding the early LCA for clearance).

:sawzall:
 
I am placing an order for a SECOND set of spare front LCAs.

MB is saying that the left side units are easily available -- 124 330 34 07.

The RevParts sites are saying that the right side units are still discontinued -- 124 330 35 07 ..... but MB Classic Parts is saying they are available. I will check personally with MB Annapolis next week, and if not available in the US, will have them put an order in with Germany.

This has been a very dicey part in terms of availability, so if you are wavering, it is probably a good idea to get a set now. MB Annapolis is pricing these at 28.5% off of list.
 
Gerry, make sure to ask them specifically to check inventory for the right side in both USA warehouses, *and* Germany. Too many times they only look at USA and if they see at least 1, they don't bother checking Germany.

Sometimes there is inventory at dealers within USA (not at warehouses) but often dealers are unwilling to release it, unless it's something they want to get rid of. Any time they report single-digit quantities in USA, you then need to ask the secondary question, "are these in MBUSA warehouses, or at dealers?".

Gotta know how to work the system.

:matrix:
 
Check Fleebay too. I ordered from a dealer seller and received OE 124 330 35 07. Funny enough the shipping label showed it came from Naperville (Dealer was somewhere in NE though). Seemed odd, but I guess Naperville was willing to let that one go. This was in March from mercedesofwarwick

 

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