OWNER e500.org (E500 Limited)

[Jlaa]

I am curious - what is this for?



BTW I should remark that I find the implicit cultural differences in this thread to be fascinating. On one hand, there are a few gentleman, apparently of UK extraction - from London and Cornwall, and they are conversing on this thread in a more formal style that is reminiscent of written letters that we use engage in during the pre-Internet days.

On the other hand, there are several Americans on this thread, myself included, that are much more terse; their written remarks lack formal greetings and conclusions, and their grammar is much less precise. I find this contrast nearly as fascinating as the E500 Limited itself!

 

[Efraim]

Radar detector?

BTW As non native english speaker and Finn, I also don't use to much words. Kimi Räikkönen is my role model

 

[e500.org]

I am curious - what is this for?

View attachment 112749

BTW I should remark that I find the implicit cultural differences in this thread to be fascinating. On one hand, there are a few gentleman, apparently of UK extraction - from London and Cornwall, and they are conversing on this thread in a more formal style that is reminiscent of written letters that we use engage in during the pre-Internet days.

On the other hand, there are several Americans on this thread, myself included, that are much more terse; their written remarks lack formal greetings and conclusions, and their grammar is much less precise. I find this contrast nearly as fascinating as the E500 Limited itself!

Interesting observation indeed! I'll keep this short, thanks and I'm not sure what that unit is.

 

[e500.org]

Right, here is the hit list for the E500 after several revisions...what started from replacing the rear shocks has quickly escalated. After owning and driving the car for a while now it's time for refreshing the car, as I enjoy driving this car thoroughly and it would be nice to keep it tip top for the next 5-10 years, a tighter drive is also welcomed (some key items are worn such as the engine mounts, gearbox mount, flex disc, rear shocks, etc.) The car just turned over 96,000km.

I welcome thoughts from you all, particularly regarding the jobs to do "whilst in there", otherwise I think this list of replacement parts will bring up my car to a very high standard - listed below is the job list and the part numbers of the parts I do not have.

Parts to order	Part Number	Quantity
Front strut top mounts	A 124 320 14 44	2
Rear SLS shock mounting kit	A 124 320 03 56	2
Upper SLS shock bushings	201 326 18 68	2
Lower SLS shock bushings	124 326 03 68	2
Lower control arm nuts	N910113010003	2
Front exhaust cat hanger	A 124 492 00 82	2
Resonator exhaust hanger	A 129 492 02 82	1
Rear exhaust muffler rear hangers	A 107 492 00 82	1
Left indicator lens	A1248260943	1
Right indicator lens	A1248261043	1
Bonnet handle hook	A1248800220	1
Lower Ariel seal	A1248270798	1
Upper Ariel seal - NLA	A1248270898	1
Rear sphere seal	A1249970940	2
Rear suspension sphere	a1403280515	2
Valve cover gasket set left	A1190101330	1
Valve cover gasket set right	A1190101430	1
Dipstick seal	A0069972645	1
Sump bolt	A0029973430	1
Engine oil sump bolt washer	N007603012110	4
Engine oil filler cap	A0000101485	1
Sump bolt washer	N007603012102	4
Coolant radiator cap	A1245000406	1
Kick down switch	A0025452214	1
Front Brake disc (320mm, left)	A 129 421 17 12	1
Front Brake disc (320mm, right)	A 129 421 18 12	1
Front brake pads	A0054200220	1
Rear brake pads	A0034204820	1
Rear brake disc	A1294230312	2
Brake disc screws	A 201 421 01 71	4
Lower oil pan gasket	119 014 08 22	1
Oil level sensor	126 542 08 17	1
Rubber oil pickup snout	110 186 00 07	1
Oil pickup screen	601 180 01 55	1
Flex disc	A1294100115	1
Oil filter	A1191800009	1

Replace engine mounts

Replace rear SLS shocks and mounting hardware

Replace rear suspension spheres (and seals)

Replace valve cover gaskets

Replace all brake discs, pads, sensors

Replace transmission fluid, filter, gasket

Replace steering fluid and filter

Replace/flush brake fluid

Replace oil level sensor, snout and screen

Replace engine oil pan gasket

Replace front prop flex disc and bolts

Replace fuel filter

Replace rear upper and lower strut bushings

Replace engine oil and filter

Replace exhaust rubber hangers

Replace transmission mount

Replace front strut top mounts

Replace front anti roll bar bushes

Wheel alignment

Replace front ball joint boot/rubber

Replace bonnet washer jets

Replace steering drag link

Replace left and right tie rods

Replace kickdown switch

Flush SLS suspension fluid

I installed a new stereo (Alpine, off the shelf) and although I hardly listen to the radio, the antenna is seized. I can hear it trying to move up and down but it makes a buzzing sound and does nothing, particularly on start up/switch off. One of my friends had the same problem with his E500 and removed/repaired it, so I'll be going to his place one weekend to get it repaired as I can't really find a new one online.

Oh and the IR key died. I opened it up, re-soldered and it works perfectly now - it was a PITA using the key to open and close this thing from the passenger side! Only issue I face with the key fob now, the key fob itself is quite weak and does not really hold itself together as it did before, ideally I need a new key fob so I can transfer my key and circuit board over - I do not know if they are available from MB, never really seen those in EPC but I'll have a look this evening. I dropped it as I got out the car the other day and it broke into 10 or so pieces, luckily no drains nearby otherwise it may have been fatal!

Thanks for reading as always!

 

[Jlaa]

If you are going to drop the oil pan, perhaps ensure that you have the updated “wide mouth” rubber oil pickup? As well, is the lower wiring harness original, or has it been replaced?

Up top, if you are replacing the valve cover gaskets, perhaps consider ensuring that you replace the plastic chain rails that you can access from the top, as well as ensuring that you have metal oiling tubes?

Also while doing the front end, consider the steering damper?

• Steering damper: 124 463 04 32
• 18 copper "crush" washers for valve cover bolts (MB part number N007603 006106)
• Replacement metal cam oiler tubes (16)
• METAL CAM OILING TUBES
  119 187 00 87 (orig metal)
  119 180 02 66 (MB plastic)
• Upper plastic chain rail guides (MB part numbers 119 052 09 16 (two required); 119 050 03 16; and 119 050 02 16)
• 32 new o-rings for replacement cam oiler tubes (MB part number 015 997 31 48)

 

[e500.org]

If you are going to drop the oil pan, perhaps ensure that you have the updated “wide mouth” rubber oil pickup? As well, is the lower wiring harness original, or has it been replaced?

Up top, if you are replacing the valve cover gaskets, perhaps consider ensuring that you replace the plastic chain rails that you can access from the top, as well as ensuring that you have metal oiling tubes?

Also while doing the front end, consider the steering damper?

• valve cover gasket kits for left and right side engine banks (MB part numbers 119 010 13 30 and 119 010 14 30)
• 18 copper "crush" washers for valve cover bolts (MB part number N007603 006106)
• Replacement metal cam oiler tubes (16)
• Upper plastic chain rail guides (MB part numbers 119 052 09 16 (two required); 119 050 03 16; and 119 050 02 16)
• 32 new o-rings for replacement cam oiler tubes (MB part number 015 997 31 48)

Thanks for chiming in / for these thoughts - few questions:

1. Do you have the part number for the wider rubber oil pickup? I got the P/N from EPC so I assume I have the standard one.
2. Lower wiring harness - no evidence of this being replaced - do you happen to know where this is in EPC? I suppose a worthwhile job to do given I've read a fair amount about them and my upper wiring harness has been replaced in the past - nothing to suggest there is anything wrong with mine however.
3. I am not considering further engine work at this stage, my engine is working good (*touch wood*) and one of the quietest and tightest E500's I have driven even from cold start and months of not starting, so I am inclined to leave it alone for now otherwise I'll be looking at adding $1000+ to the bill.
4. Good shout on the steering damper, my steering box is bone dry at the moment, I changed the steering damper on a previous E500 I had and straight after the steering box began to leak - perhaps new components put more strain on the steering box - does that make any sense? Steering is good at the moment so not really motivated to change that part for the risk of making the steering box leak.

 

[Jlaa]

Thanks for chiming in / for these thoughts - few questions:

1. Do you have the part number for the wider rubber oil pickup? I got the P/N from EPC so I assume I have the standard one.
2. Lower wiring harness - no evidence of this being replaced - do you happen to know where this is in EPC? I suppose a worthwhile job to do given I've read a fair amount about them and my upper wiring harness has been replaced in the past - nothing to suggest there is anything wrong with mine however.
3. I am not considering further engine work at this stage, my engine is working good (*touch wood*) and one of the quietest and tightest E500's I have driven even from cold start and months of not starting, so I am inclined to leave it alone for now otherwise I'll be looking at adding $1000+ to the bill.
4. Good shout on the steering damper, my steering box is bone dry at the moment, I changed the steering damper on a previous E500 I had and straight after the steering box began to leak - perhaps new components put more strain on the steering box - does that make any sense? Steering is good at the moment so not really motivated to change that part for the risk of making the steering box leak.

Sure!

• Oil Sump Pickup Rubber Boot - 110 186 00 07
• 124-540-27-30 (lower wiring harness)

Seriously though if you are going to have the valve covers off, do the plastic timing rails up top and the conversion to metal oiling tubes. There’s no additional labor really to get to those parts once the valve covers are off, and you will kick yourself in the future for not doing them..... especially plastic timing rails.

 

[e500.org]

Sure!

• Oil Sump Pickup Rubber Boot - 110 186 00 07
• 124-540-27-30 (lower wiring harness)

Seriously though if you are going to have the valve covers off, do the plastic timing rails up top and the conversion to metal oiling tubes. There’s no additional labor really to get to those parts once the valve covers are off, and you will kick yourself in the future for not doing them..... especially plastic timing rails.

Thanks

 

[TimL]

Right, here is the hit list for the E500 after several revisions...what started from replacing the rear shocks has quickly escalated. After owning and driving the car for a while now it's time for refreshing the car, as I enjoy driving this car thoroughly and it would be nice to keep it tip top for the next 5-10 years, a tighter drive is also welcomed (some key items are worn such as the engine mounts, gearbox mount, flex disc, rear shocks, etc.) The car just turned over 96,000km.

I welcome thoughts from you all, particularly regarding the jobs to do "whilst in there", otherwise I think this list of replacement parts will bring up my car to a very high standard - listed below is the job list and the part numbers of the parts I do not have.

Parts to order	Part Number	Quantity
Front shock top mounts	A 124 320 14 44	2
Rear shock mounting kit	A 124 320 03 56	2
Upper strut bushings	201 326 18 68	2
Lower strut bushings	201 326 03 68	2
Lower control arm nuts	N910113010003	2
Front exhaust cat hanger	A 124 492 00 82	2
Resonator exhaust hanger	A 129 492 02 82	1
Rear exhaust muffler rear hangers	A 107 492 00 82	1
Left indicator lens	A1248260943	1
Right indicator lens	A1248261043	1
Bonnet handle hook	A1248800220	1
Lower Ariel seal	A1248270798	1
Upper Ariel seal	A1248270898	1
Rear sphere seal	A1249900940	2
Rear suspension sphere	a1403280515	2
Valve cover gasket set left	A1190101330	1
Valve cover gasket set right	A1190101430	1
Dipstick seal	A0069972645	1
Sump bolt	A0029973430	1
Engine oil sump bolt washer	N007603012110	4
Engine oil filler cap	A0000101485	1
Sump bolt washer	N007603012102	4
Coolant radiator cap	A1245000406	1
Kick down switch	A0025452214	1
Front Brake disc	A 129 421 17 12	1
Front Brake disc	A 129 421 18 12	1
Front brake pads	A0054200220	1
Rear brake pads	A0034204820	1
Rear brake disc	A1294230312	2
Brake disc screws	A 201 421 01 71	4
Lower oil pan gasket	119 014 08 22	1
Oil level sensor	126 542 08 17	1
Rubber oil pickup snout	110 186 00 07	1
Oil pickup screen	601 180 01 55	1
Flex disc	A1294100115	1
Oil filter	A1191800009	1

Replace engine mounts

Replace rear shocks and mounting hardware

Replace rear suspension spheres (and seals)

Replace valve cover gaskets

Replace all brake discs, pads, sensors

Replace transmission fluid, filter, gasket

Replace steering fluid and filter

Replace/flush brake fluid

Replace oil level sensor, snout and screen

Replace engine oil pan gasket

Replace front prop flex disc and bolts

Replace fuel filter

Replace rear upper and lower strut bushings

Replace engine oil and filter

Replace exhaust rubber hangers

Replace transmission mount

Replace front shock top mounts

Replace front anti roll bar bushes

Wheel alignment

Replace front ball joint boot/rubber

Replace bonnet washer jets

Replace steering drag link

Replace left and right tie rods

Replace kickdown switch

Flush SLS suspension fluid

I installed a new stereo (Alpine, off the shelf) and although I hardly listen to the radio, the antenna is seized. I can hear it trying to move up and down but it makes a buzzing sound and does nothing, particularly on start up/switch off. One of my friends had the same problem with his E500 and removed/repaired it, so I'll be going to his place one weekend to get it repaired as I can't really find a new one online.

Oh and the IR key died. I opened it up, re-soldered and it works perfectly now - it was a PITA using the key to open and close this thing from the passenger side! Only issue I face with the key fob now, the key fob itself is quite weak and does not really hold itself together as it did before, ideally I need a new key fob so I can transfer my key and circuit board over - I do not know if they are available from MB, never really seen those in EPC but I'll have a look this evening. I dropped it as I got out the car the other day and it broke into 10 or so pieces, luckily no drains nearby otherwise it may have been fatal!

Thanks for reading as always!

Your car looks great - love the fact that you are keeping it all original too! That list of items you plan to tackle is extensive and expensive, but it will be totally worth it.

 

[gsxr]

The upper & lower SLS shock bushings are included in the mounting kit. If you buy the kit, the bushings would be duplicates:

Rear SLS shock mounting kit 124 320 03 56

Upper SLS shock bushings 201 326 18 68 ​

Lower SLS shock bushings 124 326 03 68​

You didn't mention new front struts (only the top mount) so I'm assuming the struts, stop buffer, and accordion dust boots are all recent.

If possible replace both tie rod assemblies (not just the ends), and I'd recommend only OE for the drag link (not aftermarket).

Changing steering shock or any other part would not put the slightest additional strain on the steering box. Nothing to worry about there. If the box is dry that's great, if it starts to weep around the output (Pitman arm) shaft that isn't a big deal to re-seal. There's a How-To writeup on it here. If there's any sign of leakage there, just do it now while everything else is apart. I'd consider replacing the 2 low-pressure power steering hoses while you are in there; with the left engine mount out there's relatively easy access to the straight p/s return hose "hidden" behind the heat shield, along the frame rail.

OH yeah - if the valve covers are coming off, a new rubber funnel and plastic holder (passenger side rear) is a good idea. P/N's here.

You mentioned the fuel filter, but not fuel hoses. If the fuel high pressure hose at the filter outlet is not recent, replace that with new OE as a safety item (click here). And if the pumps are original, well, no time like the present...

 

[e500.org]

The upper & lower SLS shock bushings are included in the mounting kit. If you buy the kit, the bushings would be duplicates:

Rear SLS shock mounting kit 124 320 03 56

Upper SLS shock bushings 201 326 18 68 ​

Lower SLS shock bushings 124 326 03 68​

You didn't mention new front struts (only the top mount) so I'm assuming the struts, stop buffer, and accordion dust boots are all recent.

If possible replace both tie rod assemblies (not just the ends), and I'd recommend only OE for the drag link (not aftermarket).

Changing steering shock or any other part would not put the slightest additional strain on the steering box. Nothing to worry about there. If the box is dry that's great, if it starts to weep around the output (Pitman arm) shaft that isn't a big deal to re-seal. There's a How-To writeup on it here. If there's any sign of leakage there, just do it now while everything else is apart. I'd consider replacing the 2 low-pressure power steering hoses while you are in there; with the left engine mount out there's relatively easy access to the straight p/s return hose "hidden" behind the heat shield, along the frame rail.

OH yeah - if the valve covers are coming off, a new rubber funnel and plastic holder (passenger side rear) is a good idea. P/N's here.

You mentioned the fuel filter, but not fuel hoses. If the fuel high pressure hose at the filter outlet is not recent, replace that with new OE as a safety item (click here). And if the pumps are original, well, no time like the present...



View attachment 112804

Thanks Dave for the detailed post and advice. You guys are making me spend $$$ but I did ask for it, shouldn't have expected any less!

Points noted below:

1. I found three fuel lines which are rubber so added them to my cart - any others worth changing? 1244708075, 1244706975, 1294700664.
2. Removed upper and lower shock bushings from the list so that has saved me some $.
3. Added front shocks and associated hardware, truth be told seem OK (probably original) but it wouldn't make sense to skimp on those given all this work replacing the rears etc.
4. Drag link I have is OEM MB.
5. I did not understand the comment regarding the tie rods, but I have the full assembly I think and not the end indeed, in my possession I have 1243302003 and 1293300303 (i.e. it is the complete tie rod and not just the screw end part).
6. Decided to leave the valve covers for another time, not doing any engine work at the moment as noted above more work should probably be undertaken at the same time.
7. Regarding the fuel pumps I have a pair on the shelf but they're not original MB or Bosch, I really only bought them as spares - the brand is Lucas - any experience with these?

 

[JC220]

Lucas are an OE supplier to MB for brake calipers + some electrical parts including starters, alternators, bulbs, sensors and relays.

They are an English company and don't peddle chineseum as far as I am aware. I would have no issue using the Lucas fuel pumps you have on hand.

Ideally, given the choice - Bosch for the twin pumps and Pierburg is the OE supplier for the late single fuel pump.

 

[gsxr]

I found three fuel lines which are rubber so added them to my cart - any others worth changing? 1244708075, 1244706975, 1294700664

Those are all of 'em back there! The feed hose exiting the tank is not easy to replace with the diff or subframe in place, though.

Added front shocks and associated hardware, truth be told seem OK (probably original) but it wouldn't make sense to skimp on those given all this work replacing the rears etc.

Good idea. OE only on all those items, btw.

I did not understand the comment regarding the tie rods, but I have the full assembly I think and not the end indeed, in my possession I have 1243302003 and 1293300303 (i.e. it is the complete tie rod and not just the screw end part).

Sounds good. Just wanted to confirm you had the complete assemblies. They are opposite threads so don't mix up left/right or your alignment guy will be really confused.

Regarding the fuel pumps I have a pair on the shelf but they're not original MB or Bosch, I really only bought them as spares - the brand is Lucas - any experience with these?

I've never seen Lucas pumps. Bosch is OEM. I'd go with Joe's recommendation assuming they are made in Europe. If in doubt, get Bosch.

 

[e500.org]

Hello all, not posted here for a while, hope you are all keeping well. I have been driving the car every weekend and enjoying it. My 2008 C63 is the DD and gets most of the miles put on it. The E500 still has under 97,000km on it.

Today 17/10/2020, I installed the new indicator lenses and replaced the orange side repeaters for the clear side lenses on the arches again. I also replaced the coolant tank cap as these do go bad over time. The car is starting to look nice and fresh now. I will install the new bonnet hook, dipstick seal and a new bonnet star this afternoon.

Those of you up to date with this thread will know I wanted to get a number of mechanical areas attended to on this car. I have received quite a few of the parts now for the mechanical refresh that I had been waiting on so thanks all for help with part numbers etc. Setting up the virtual server with EPC helped massively too. I forgot to order the brake pad sensors but assume I could re-use the ones already installed. I am also waiting for my flex disc from the UK and ignition parts (Beru ignition wires, Beru rotor arms, Bosch insulators) so they'll be here in a week or two.

I also have Bosch coils and original MB distributor caps so will probably renew the entire ignition system in one go. I do not really have any issues with misfiring (although it has happened the odd time, generally OK) but many of the components look original/very old so could do with replacing before they completely fail.

Here is a video discussing the parts I have at the moment, the next video should be of the car in the garage. I forgot to mention in the video the oil sensor will of course be replaced due to the existing leak, that is why the oil pan gasket is being replaced and I have the oil screen and snout available to be replaced "while you're in there" !

I have also received my new windscreen now from MB Germany so that will be installed soon, thanks all for the various leads etc, Joe (JC220) gave me a heads up one day that they were potentially back in stock so I ordered one pretty much immediately. At the same time I will be painting all the roof trims gloss black, I think a few of them are NLA and I have had this done before, looks so good. I will probably do this once the car comes back from the shop. Other pending (known) issues are as follows:

• Rear antenna - does not come up when ignition is switched on and you can hear it struggling when the car is switched off.
• Rear sunblind - does not retract / extend as it should, not really had a proper look yet
• B pillar fabric is peeling off - a common issue but annoying non the less
• Front electric seats still do not play ball, buttons play havoc with the seats, perhaps issues with the cables
• Wheels are very dull, need to be sorted really. I have recently been thinking about getting new alloys instead, but what would suit my E500? If I fit 18" wheels I would probably also look to replace the rear backbox (AMG square pipes would be perfection IMO).
• Speakers are pretty weak, car needs bass! Not really thought that far yet.

Open to comments all and thanks for reading!

 

[e500.org]

The car is in the garage now, few videos to show the progress last few days. First video isn't quite right with a few things (spring pads are for rear, flex disc front needed replacement), later resolved. Enjoy!

 

[Skikar]

Nice work

 

[e500.org]

Another one from today, enjoy, good progress

 

[gsxr]

I thought the UK was only 8 hours ahead of us, not 3 months... how's COVID doing in February 2021?

 

[e500.org]

I thought the UK was only 8 hours ahead of us, not 3 months... how's COVID doing in February 2021?



View attachment 119033

Haha. I'm actually in Dubai, UAE, clearly special here!

He has named the video like this to relate to the original inspection video earlier this year in Feb (pre COVID19!!)

 

[Eno]

If I am not mistaken the SLS reservoir inner filter is still available from MB.

 

[gerryvz]

If I am not mistaken the SLS reservoir inner filter is still available from MB.

That is correct. MB part number 129 327 00 91.

Current MBUSA list price: $11.50
Confirmed by MB Classic Parts to be available.

HOW-TO: Replacing 500E/E500 Self-Leveling Fluid Filter | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

One overlooked item of maintenance on the 500E and E500, and other cars with SLS (self-leveling rear suspension systems) is the replacement of the filter inside of the SLS fluid reservoir. This job takes all of 5 minutes to do, and the filter is relatively inexpensive. This also provides an...

www.500eboard.co

 

[e500.org]

If I am not mistaken the SLS reservoir inner filter is still available from MB.

Thanks for that Eno, I will probably pick one up in my next parts order, along with the new fuel filter and a few other bits and pieces. I should probably replace that reservoir, I did purchase one of the reproduction units from this forum (along with new sticker!) but I am keeping that unit for when I really need it.

I have been informed the car is nearly ready, bar fluids (which seem to be difficult to source at short notice for some reason), once the first start is conducted the car will need a proper shake down test drive and in another shop I will complete the 4 wheel laser alignment. From all the information on this forum, I have identified the correct MB transmission fluid as part number 0019896803 (8 litres) and correct MB SLS hydraulic fluid as part number 000989910310 (2 litres). I believe that is sufficient for filling the transmission and also allowing for a flush of the SLS system. For the power steering fluid we will use Pentosin CHF-11S and for the engine oil, the usual fully synthetic good stuff (spec'd for warm climate). As per the video, we used the DOT4+ MB spec brake fluid and this will be fully bled through.

 

[e500.org]

Question on the transmission oil, MB are saying the E500 takes 000 989 92 03 but other threads saying it takes 0019896803. Does anyone know the correct one?

 

[gsxr]

The original ATF was thicker viscosity, around 7.5 cSt, Dexron-III spec. (last version was 236.10 spec). The current ATF sold by MB is around 6.0 viscosity, similar to Dexron-VI (236.12 or 236.14 spec).

Mercedes ONLY sells the new/thinner ATF now. They claim it's fully backwards compatible in older transmissions that originally had thicker fluid. This is mostly true, sort of. On a fresh rebuild, thinner fluid is a non-issue. But an older, high-mileage trans may not like thinner fluid, and/or may require adjusting the vacuum modulator firmer afterwards.

Given the insane cost of MB ATF, I never use it, as I don't think it offers any advantage over quality aftermarket synthetics (Red Line, Mobil-1, etc).

YMMV.

Finally, from what I can find on the interwebs, 000 989 92 03 is a newer 236.17 spec designed specifically for the 9-speed transmission, and may NOT be compatible with the 722.3/.4/.5/.6 transmission. I would not use 236.17 spec fluid.

You need to check the BEVO sheets.

Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften

Die Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften zeigen eine Übersicht der Anforderungen der im Fahrzeug benötigten Betriebsstoffe und der empfohlenen Produkte. Betriebsstoffe sind alle zum Betrieb eines Mercedes-Fahrzeugs / Aggregats erforderlichen Flüssigkeiten bzw. Schmiermittel z.B. Kraftstoff...

bevo.mercedes-benz.com

 

[e500.org]

The original ATF was thicker viscosity, around 7.5 cSt, Dexron-III spec. (last version was 236.10 spec). The current ATF sold by MB is around 6.0 viscosity, similar to Dexron-VI (236.12 or 236.14 spec).

Mercedes ONLY sells the new/thinner ATF now. They claim it's fully backwards compatible in older transmissions that originally had thicker fluid. This is mostly true, sort of. On a fresh rebuild, thinner fluid is a non-issue. But an older, high-mileage trans may not like thinner fluid, and/or may require adjusting the vacuum modulator firmer afterwards.

Given the insane cost of MB ATF, I never use it, as I don't think it offers any advantage over quality aftermarket synthetics (Red Line, Mobil-1, etc).

YMMV.

Finally, from what I can find on the interwebs, 000 989 92 03 is a newer 236.17 spec designed specifically for the 9-speed transmission, and may NOT be compatible with the 722.3/.4/.5/.6 transmission. I would not use 236.17 spec fluid.

You need to check the BEVO sheets.

Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften

Die Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften zeigen eine Übersicht der Anforderungen der im Fahrzeug benötigten Betriebsstoffe und der empfohlenen Produkte. Betriebsstoffe sind alle zum Betrieb eines Mercedes-Fahrzeugs / Aggregats erforderlichen Flüssigkeiten bzw. Schmiermittel z.B. Kraftstoff...

bevo.mercedes-benz.com

Thanks Dave. I am curious as to where you saw 000 989 92 03 is for a newer type of transmission. From what I could find, it is actually an older type of oil. Furthermore, it seems like this oil is for 236.6, which is marked as historical? I assume not correct for our cars which is why I am confused why MB has recommended this oil for the E500 based on chassis number.

Bottle photos: Automatic Oil ATF Original Mercedes Benz 1L A0009899203: Amazon.de: Auto

Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften

Die Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoff-Vorschriften zeigen eine Übersicht der Anforderungen der im Fahrzeug benötigten Betriebsstoffe und der empfohlenen Produkte. Betriebsstoffe sind alle zum Betrieb eines Mercedes-Fahrzeugs / Aggregats erforderlichen Flüssigkeiten bzw. Schmiermittel z.B. Kraftstoff...

bevo.mercedes-benz.com

 

[gsxr]

I found it on a Google search, where an aftermarket 236.17 fluid showed 000 989 92 03 as the MB number. It could very well be an error. MB makes it difficult to attach a spec sheet number to a fluid part number.

236.6 is an older spec that may have been current in the mid-90's, eventually superceded up to 236.10 (which was the last "thick" MB ATF).

Again, there is nothing magical about MB ATF, especially for the non-electronic 722.3 gearbox. I use Red Line D4 in my 722.3 for street use.

 

[e500.org]

I found it on a Google search, where an aftermarket 236.17 fluid showed 000 989 92 03 as the MB number. It could very well be an error. MB makes it difficult to attach a spec sheet number to a fluid part number.

236.6 is an older spec that may have been current in the mid-90's, eventually superceded up to 236.10 (which was the last "thick" MB ATF).

Again, there is nothing magical about MB ATF, especially for the non-electronic 722.3 gearbox. I use Red Line D4 in my 722.3 for street use.

Thanks Dave, yes many errors WRT searching online. OK, so would you install 236.6 (000 989 92 03) or 236.14 (001 989 68 03) given the choice, it seems MB have both (I already have 68-03), 92-03 is on order now and will take a few days. I do appreciate it is a really pedantic point but I do want original MB fluids in my car. On another topic, after cleaning up the engine oil pan fully it seems there is a little crack in the oil pan, along with a small dent, so that is getting replaced now too.

 

[r44raven]

Just to chip in here! As far as I could establish (following a fluid/filter change on my 500E), the correct fluid is 001 989 21 03. But when ordered from MB, they supplied 001 989 68 03 - which as Dave correctly pointed out, is the MB fluid which superceded 21 03.

This newer fluid caused the transmission to whine, and so I went back to Castrol Dexron III, which is thicker (and which was in the transmission prior to the fluid/filter change) - and the whine is now 90% cured!

 

[e500.org]

Just to chip in here! As far as I could establish (following a fluid/filter change on my 500E), the correct fluid is 001 989 21 03. But when ordered from MB, they supplied 001 989 68 03 - which as Dave correctly pointed out, is the MB fluid which superceded 21 03.

This newer fluid caused the transmission to whine, and so I went back to Castrol Dexron III, which is thicker (and which was in the transmission prior to the fluid/filter change) - and the whine is now 90% cured!

Stephen! Good to hear from you. OK that is useful as I did not see that on your transmission whine thread as an update, so it seems like the newer 236.14 (001 989 68 03) oil may not be appropriate for our cars, even though it seems like that is what MB is offering (at least what an aftermarket shop recommended based on VIN).

This puts me back a step back, as the other alternative offered by the MB main agent here in Dubai is 236.6 (000 989 92 03) which seems to be a historic oil 236.6 which also may not be appropriate as I understand we should only use 236.1 (or maybe given it is for historic cars it is indeed thicker and more like Dextron III?). Need someone to validate that position however.

 

[gsxr]

001 989 21 03 may be 236.10 spec, if so, it will be fine (assuming you can find it).

Note that 236.10 sheet is NOT the same as 236.1 sheet! And 236.6 refers to 236.7 which is mentioning Dexron-III. The "historic" mention is not historic cars, it's meant as an "obsolete" fluid spec, shown only for historic/reference purposes.

Don't over-think this, or feel you must use MB fluids. There are millions of 722.3/722.4 transmissions running around for hundreds of thousands of miles each, using plain old Dexron-III fluids.

 

[e500.org]

001 989 21 03 may be 236.10 spec, if so, it will be fine (assuming you can find it).

Note that 236.10 sheet is NOT the same as 236.1 sheet! And 236.6 refers to 236.7 which is mentioning Dexron-III. The "historic" mention is not historic cars, it's meant as an "obsolete" fluid spec, shown only for historic/reference purposes.

Don't over-think this, or feel you must use MB fluids. There are millions of 722.3/722.4 transmissions running around for hundreds of thousands of miles each, using plain old Dexron-III fluids.

Thanks man, 236.1 21-03 is NLA, replaced by 236.14 (68-03), therefore I think I am better off with 236.6 (000 989 92 03) so we will wait for this oil to arrive from MB.

 

[gerryvz]

The Wiki has been down for the past week or so, but it's now back up.

There is a Wiki page pertaining to fluids, that may be helpful:

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/wiki/?title=500E-E500-Fluid-Capacities

 

[e500.org]

I still do not have the car back. Unfortunately after cleaning the oil pan it seems there is a small crack and it sweats oil. Another gasket and new oil pan to be installed. Fluids likely to arrive from MB on Saturday. Few photos, enjoy!

 

[e500.org]

In the end we managed to source the (correct) transmission oil, that we determined was 236.6 (000 989 92 03), it took some time to come from MB. The SLS hydraulic oil was used for the suspension and CHF-11S was used for the power steering.

When I first collected the car it started and drove fine but once I got back home it was misfiring and had sprung a leak. Luckily the leak was a quite minor and common one (the short hose below the SLS suspension oil reservoir), I assume this began leaking as the original hose was reinstalled when the removed and cleaned the reservoir. See my other thread on the misfiring issue.

So the car was collected by recovery the same evening I raised these issues and worked on, returned the next day with the spark plugs gapped to 1.0mm and the hose replaced with new clamps. As a result my car is driving absolutely lovely now and I am overall very satisfied with the work completed by the shop I used. The final list of jobs completed on my car are below:

Replace engine mounts

Replace transmission/gearbox mount

Replace rear shock absorbers and mounting hardware

Replace rear spring pads

Replace rear suspension spheres (and seals)

Replace rear upper and lower shock absorber bushings

Replace front and rear brake discs, pads, sensors

Replace front and rear brake hoses/brake lines

Replace engine oil level sensor, oil snout, oil screen, oil pan gasket

Replace front driveshaft flex disc and bolts

Replace exhaust pipe rubber hangers (cats, resonators, backbox)

Replace front shock top mounts

Replace front anti roll bar bushes (inner and outer)

Replace front ball joint boots/covers

Replace steering drag link

Replace front left and right tie rod assemblies

Replace interior kickdown pedal switch

Replace accelerator throttle cable

Replace ignition distributor caps x2

Replace ignition cable set

Replace ignition coils x2

Replace transmission/gearbox fluid, filter, gasket

Replace/flush all steering fluid, replace filter

Replace/flush all brake fluid

Replace/flush all SLS suspension fluid

Replace engine oil and filter

The additional videos from the shop are below:

I have also had the four wheel alignment done. I need to find the new rotor brackets to be able to install new rotor arms. I will probably replace the distributor insulators too at some point.

For now, the car is running nice, one of my next jobs is probably getting the alloy wheels refurbished back to the diamond cut finish

 

[e500.org]

Glad to report the car is being heavily enjoyed, so much so I've used it on a daily basis for work and left the C63 parked up. Result is the car is very dirty and got a clean earlier. I do have to admit the only complaint of the OEM brake pads is the brake dust they emit!

 

[e500.org]

Another brief update on my E500 LTD. Wheel alignment now properly done by an MB specialist here in Dubai (Silberarrows) along with wheel balancing. The car is super smooth now and does not pull. After using a few local garages I was not happy so I bite the bullet and took it to this shop. I have not had the best experience with these guys in the past but the two recent visits (this visit with the E500 LTD and one a few months back with my C63 where they replaced a bunch of parts including gearbox mount, engine mounts, washer tank, engine pulleys, belt, etc.) have been positive and I do rate the guys over there now. There are quite a few new people working there so I think the management and approach to customers has been overhauled and I now feel confident taking my business there.

A few photos below from when I dropped the car off yesterday morning. Now I have done many jobs on my E500, the list of things to do is getting shorter (of course, it is never ending with our cars). I think I have the below off the top of my head:

• Replace rear windscreen (I already have this part) due to a small crack
• Repaint rear windscreen, roof and front outer trims in gloss black
• Replace front headlight lenses (they are original but yellowed from age) with new items (check pics below)
• Refurbish the original EVO alloy wheels back to the original factory diamond cut finish
• Replace the speedo cluster (are these available brand new from MB?) due to mildew/mold spots
• Replace the steering wheel and gear knob back to LTD items (not urgent)
• Still have a misfire, it is intermittent, I am not sure what this is, perhaps the EZL I am using?
• Antenna is broken, looking for a good used unit to install

I think that is all for now, there are a few small things like I have a brand new grill assembly to install, new hood release handle etc. Given the nature of our cars I am sure there will be more stuff to do over time. I did consider adding the WOT enrichment modules and perhaps first gear start and ASR defeat but I have decided to leave my car stock, I've got the C63 for hooning around!!!

 

[gsxr]

Headlight lenses don't yellow, are you certain there is no protective film on the glass which may be turning color? Glass lenses get pitted / sandblasted over time, but I've never seen them turn color.

Speedo has been NLA for years. You can attempt to clean the faceplate, or get custom ones made, or apply vinyl overlays.

EZL would not be responsible for an intermittent misfire issue. If the EZL is for a 5.0L engine, it's fine. Were the plugs gapped to 1.0mm, and are they non-resistor plugs?

I'd still consider the FGS upgrade even for non-hoon use. It's a noticeable difference every time you accelerate from a stop. The WOT enrichment and ASR defeat you wouldn't notice or use much, respectively.

 

[e500.org]

Headlight lenses don't yellow, are you certain there is no protective film on the glass which may be turning color? Glass lenses get pitted / sandblasted over time, but I've never seen them turn color.

Speedo has been NLA for years. You can attempt to clean the faceplate, or get custom ones made, or apply vinyl overlays.

EZL would not be responsible for an intermittent misfire issue. If the EZL is for a 5.0L engine, it's fine. Were the plugs gapped to 1.0mm, and are they non-resistor plugs?

I'd still consider the FGS upgrade even for non-hoon use. It's a noticeable difference every time you accelerate from a stop. The WOT enrichment and ASR defeat you wouldn't notice or use much, respectively.

Thanks Dave, useful inputs. My brother has the Bergwerks FGS but won't part with it, grrr

I meant the speedo housing, the actual dials are perfect.

 

[gsxr]

FGS, install the valve body from a USA-spec 034. Pretty sure there are still a couple available from US form members in the classifieds.

Speedo housing! Got it. That is A0005420387 and appears to be NLA. You should be able to locate a good used one, just make sure it's from a later 124 (not 1980's, the early ones have the thin plastic light guides).

 

[e500.org]

FGS, install the valve body from a USA-spec 034. Pretty sure there are still a couple available from US form members in the classifieds.

Speedo housing! Got it. That is A0005420387 and appears to be NLA. You should be able to locate a good used one, just make sure it's from a later 124 (not 1980's, the early ones have the thin plastic light guides).

Thanks Dave. Looking out for a good one at the moment, plenty on eBay etc.

Are you able to tell me the right plugs this car should have? Yes they have been gapped and the car ran MUCH better once gapped to 1.0mm (see above posts), however I have to admit I did not check the plugs the shop installed. They could indeed be the incorrect ones. I would really love for this misfire to go!

To recap, the ignition parts recently replaced: ignition coils, ignition cables, spark plugs (but need to check if correct ones) and distributor caps. Rotor arms I could not replace due to the incorrect bracket on the car, I need to source and install A1191580640 (also NLA I think but on eBay NOS) so I can install the Beru rotor arms, the insulators I have but did not replace as the originals looked OK. I will probably replace these too when I do the rotor brackets and rotor arms.

If the above does not resolve the intermittent misfire I suppose I need to check the inlet manifold for any leaks?

 

[e500.org]

Few photos from a car meet today, along with my friends Brabus 7.3 W140, crazy machine!


The W140 just arrived from Japan a few weeks ago, they are a few $k into it already and I understand the car is not running right. I'm sure my friend will sort it, I'm looking forward to driving it

 

[gsxr]

WOW! Should have sent the 7.3L from Japan to @jhodg5ck at Blue Ridge first, to get it sorted, before moving on to its final destination...

 

[e500.org]

The 7.3 is going to saudi Arabia

Not much news on my E500 other than it is running like clockwork (touch wood) and no issues to report. Gave it a good blast the other day, this car is built for the highway, incredible torque!

I have a brand new grill to install and new hood handle. I also have a brand new set of stainless steel door trims for E500 LTD so need to spend time getting those installed. I have been busy moving apartment so not much has gone on car wise.

Few photos after the annual check up and registration renewal and also some random photos (whenever I look back at my car when I park it!)

I might do a dry ice cleaning as someone has it in Dubai now, will go and see on weekend. Wheels will get refurbished too back to the diamond cut finish.

I am slowly considering new alloys and exhaust but a part of me tells me to keep it OEM...what do you guys think?

 

[TimL]

It shows that you paid a lot of attention to the details - your car looks great!

If I were you, I’d leave it stock. You got one of the few Limited in nice condition which are left out there and putting anything non Limited on it is bound to feel wrong down the road. Why stick some generic Monoblock or Brabus wheels on it when they will just make it yet another E500 with fat wheels? As far as speed mods go, you have a C63 that will always be the faster and better handling car, no matter what you throw at the 036. Leave it stock and revel in the fact that you are sticking to what Bruno Sacco thought was best

 

[nocfn]

Agree with above, do not bugger it up with vanity mods.

 

[e500.org]

It shows that you paid a lot of attention to the details - your car looks great!

If I were you, I’d leave it stock. You got one of the few Limited in nice condition which are left out there and putting anything non Limited on it is bound to feel wrong down the road. Why stick some generic Monoblock or Brabus wheels on it when they will just make it yet another E500 with fat wheels? As far as speed mods go, you have a C63 that will always be the faster and better handling car, no matter what you throw at the 036. Leave it stock and revel in the fact that you are sticking to what Bruno Sacco thought was best

Thanks for the sense check! I am also keen to keep my car standard OEM, just boredom kicks in from time to time...as you say the C63 is good for hooning and very rarely do we see stock OEM classics like the E500 - wheels and exhaust are normally first to be changed (and indeed each to their own). That further cements my decision to get the EVO-IIs refurbished back to factory spec diamond high sheen and keep my OEM exhaust too.

 

[e500.org]

Wrapped up the car for now as it's getting hot here in the UAE. Our cars don't like the intense heat, 50C+ at height of summer, although it can survive it well the AC in the C63 is far superior. Probably still fire it up from time to time or the odd evening drive so left everything connected.

The C63 is almost never clean so I thought I'd take a few snaps. It's not the cleanest example cosmetically, door dings, kerbed wheels, scratches, but it's a great car to drive and lots of fun!

Getting itchy feet for another Benz in the fleet, W140 is tempting but I assume similar issues running one through the summer. W220 S600 bi turbo however...

 

[e500.org]

So I had to bring out the E500 sooner than expected. The power steering pump bracket cracked on my C63 which meant the belt came off. Luckily it was on start up in the parking garage and not on the highway. Trusty E500 comes to the rescue!

My main guy Tasos Moschatos has agreed to replace the brackets only and he has a few spares on hand from some old pumps. The garage where it is now has quoted over $1000 to replace the pump which does not seem necessary if only the bracket is damaged. They say the pump is fine along with all pulleys and belt, so let's hope the new bracket resolves the issue, fingers crossed! Oh, the C63 also needs new rear tyres, eek!

 

[e500.org]

Thought it was about time I get some proper photos up of the E500 so here we go! Shes not perfect but certainly heading in that direction. I'll get up a 'to do list' of the latest pending items soon.

To get my car to OEM as it left the factory I would have to remove the phone (which I am not going to do), install the steering wheel, gearstick (which I have) and the LTD floormats (impossible to find). Stereo is a minor point IMO.

 

[TimL]

Looking good! Consider putting Right hand traffic headlights on your list if you don't take the car back to the UK, as a search for these might take a while