Agree! They can't be any louder than the Aux fans. As long as you are happy, works for you and the dutchie climate, that's all that matters.
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E500E Electric Fan conversion thread
- Thread starter Christian_K
- Start date
Agree! They can't be any louder than the Aux fans. As long as you are happy, works for you and the dutchie climate, that's all that matters.
The stock viscous fan is nearly silent at idle, and you would normally not be outside the car when it's engaged & above idle. The stock aux fans are a bit loud on high speed but unless you have a CoolHarness, those wouldn't ever be on high speed until ~107°C.Hang on a minute ! Is this mod about not having a loud intrusive fan or is it for better cooling??
IMO... this mod is primarily about increasing airflow at idle (when the viscous fan is at ~800rpm max) to improve cooling at low vehicle speeds. And also eliminating the question of if the fan clutch is working properly or not. However from the video (thanks, Jelmer!) it appears that at ~60% it is indeed very quiet, but at 100% it's equally as loud as the stock aux fans on high, if not louder. Granted, if it rarely runs at 100%, that's not an issue. But it definitely is not "quiet" outside the car at 100%. It is quiet from inside the car though, which is probably what's important to most people.
Given the Flex-a-Lite's 22A max current draw, I would still recommend upgrading the alternator to a 150A unit from an early M113 engine (these are relatively cheap used in the USA). It's not a requirement, just a recommendation. The 150A alternator is capable of putting out significantly more current at idle. The 150A unit pumps out 90A at idle, vs 60A or 70A stock (for the 110A or 115A/120A units, respectively). Idle RPM's are where you need the current most with a mod like this.
Yeah yeah i see... the mechanic and 50% planner will always only be mentioned besides... sad world... (Joke!)
I can just tell you that this conversion is simply perfect for the 500E.
Christian, 
Thanks but actually we had lots of them if you remember:
(images again broken, Wtf? PS CS6 i use for resize)
ADMIN NOTE: NEED TO USE SOFTWARE CORRECTLY
Attachments
Hello.
During yesterday and today I have read all threads related to the cooling problem on Jelmers car. It was nice reading - in fact a bit scary when the temp. in the discussion was quite raised, close to that 100C line..He He..(...or was it 95C)
. However, this thread and the others have been VERY HELPFUL to give a thorugh understanding of the cooling features and its vital components on our cars. It did also solve a long time pondering for me on my SuperMerc, about an additional water cooler installed in serie with the stock cooler. And from what I can understand now, it's done because the stock fan is replaced with a thinner fan to leave space for the supercharger belt.
If it is OK for Jelmer and Christian I would like to copy your set-up. I've also a question; what is the closest distance between the fan shroud and the waterpump pulley? I have the supercharger belt passing in that space, so it will be close.
CHEERS TO JELMER AND CHRISTIAN FOR A GREAT PIONEER WORK!
During yesterday and today I have read all threads related to the cooling problem on Jelmers car. It was nice reading - in fact a bit scary when the temp. in the discussion was quite raised, close to that 100C line..He He..(...or was it 95C)
. However, this thread and the others have been VERY HELPFUL to give a thorugh understanding of the cooling features and its vital components on our cars. It did also solve a long time pondering for me on my SuperMerc, about an additional water cooler installed in serie with the stock cooler. And from what I can understand now, it's done because the stock fan is replaced with a thinner fan to leave space for the supercharger belt.If it is OK for Jelmer and Christian I would like to copy your set-up. I've also a question; what is the closest distance between the fan shroud and the waterpump pulley? I have the supercharger belt passing in that space, so it will be close.
CHEERS TO JELMER AND CHRISTIAN FOR A GREAT PIONEER WORK!
Jelmer....it's nice to see you have been introduced to the famous (in the Aschaffenburg area, at least) "Schlappeseppelbier".
When I visit the area, Vitamin S is always an important part of my diet.
After drinking with Christian I didn't need any food for 2 days....only coffee and ibuprofen...
When I visit the area, Vitamin S is always an important part of my diet.
After drinking with Christian I didn't need any food for 2 days....only coffee and ibuprofen...
Arnt,
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like our work!
The minimum distance is maybe only 10-15mm. We removed the useless cover plate from the fans to give us more clearance:
And on my car:
Of course we won't mind if you try this, too! Great! Maybe we should even think about buying more fan units to save money!
One thing I have begun to notice, though: the fans move plenty of air, but it seems the lack the power to build up actual pressure. This means that with the hood closed, they cool quite a lot slower than with the hood open. I think I'll have to find some more room for new air vents in the plastic bottom engine cover.
Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you like our work!
The minimum distance is maybe only 10-15mm. We removed the useless cover plate from the fans to give us more clearance:
And on my car:
Of course we won't mind if you try this, too! Great! Maybe we should even think about buying more fan units to save money!
One thing I have begun to notice, though: the fans move plenty of air, but it seems the lack the power to build up actual pressure. This means that with the hood closed, they cool quite a lot slower than with the hood open. I think I'll have to find some more room for new air vents in the plastic bottom engine cover.
Many thanks!
It will be very close to the superchargerbelt, but it is running above the closest point between the waterpump pulley and the el.fan motors, so I guess it will pass.
About vents, it's obvious, the engine bay is more or less sealed on these cars. I'm sure the fans sucks enough air into the engine bay, but the air doesn't evacuate. However, I'm not so worried about that up here in the north with no extreme heat. And the bottomplate should be in place due to better aerodynamics. On the SuperMerc is both the bottomplate and the lower plastic shielding against the wheel wells missing. Even the engine mount cooling arrangement is removed to give space for the intercooler and its piping. I have some work to do!
About fan ordering, it would be smart to get a collected order. I've found a shipping company now having a reasonable boat shipping (but that's to Norway), it takes 28 days, but that may not be a problem. The cost is half of air freight.
Cheers
It will be very close to the superchargerbelt, but it is running above the closest point between the waterpump pulley and the el.fan motors, so I guess it will pass.
About vents, it's obvious, the engine bay is more or less sealed on these cars. I'm sure the fans sucks enough air into the engine bay, but the air doesn't evacuate. However, I'm not so worried about that up here in the north with no extreme heat. And the bottomplate should be in place due to better aerodynamics. On the SuperMerc is both the bottomplate and the lower plastic shielding against the wheel wells missing. Even the engine mount cooling arrangement is removed to give space for the intercooler and its piping. I have some work to do!
About fan ordering, it would be smart to get a collected order. I've found a shipping company now having a reasonable boat shipping (but that's to Norway), it takes 28 days, but that may not be a problem. The cost is half of air freight.
Cheers
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Small update:
As noted in other threads, I still had issues with the temperature climbing too high when driving, most likely from the wind around the thermostat. I've now - finally - shoved the thermostat further into the radiator which makes it respond *much* quicker to temperature changes. Later on, I'll hook up the AC compressor line to the fan controller, but hopefully that won't be necessary just yet.
I'm pretty pleased with the result, considering the small amount of space we have to work with.
[youtube]t_692DBJHdA[/youtube]
As noted in other threads, I still had issues with the temperature climbing too high when driving, most likely from the wind around the thermostat. I've now - finally - shoved the thermostat further into the radiator which makes it respond *much* quicker to temperature changes. Later on, I'll hook up the AC compressor line to the fan controller, but hopefully that won't be necessary just yet.
I'm pretty pleased with the result, considering the small amount of space we have to work with.
[youtube]t_692DBJHdA[/youtube]
Attachments
Hi @Jelmer @Christian_K
Are you guys still using these electric fans on your 500E? How have you got on with them instead of the viscous? I know this thread is a couple of years outdated...
I've recently done an upgrade of my standard altenator to a 150A altenator from an ML55, so I'm exploring the ideas to install electric fans in my 500E (mainly because it sounds like an interesting project!)
I'm looking at an idea to have a 12V 220W 16" electric fan, but still undecided if dual 12" are better.
cheers
Are you guys still using these electric fans on your 500E? How have you got on with them instead of the viscous? I know this thread is a couple of years outdated...
I've recently done an upgrade of my standard altenator to a 150A altenator from an ML55, so I'm exploring the ideas to install electric fans in my 500E (mainly because it sounds like an interesting project!)
I'm looking at an idea to have a 12V 220W 16" electric fan, but still undecided if dual 12" are better.
cheers
Fair enough! No worries.
Yes i have them installed still. Runs good no real issues...
However the version with the universal temperature probe is not the best. Its possible to use a standard threaded temp sensor with the control unit it comes with. So in future i will most likely drill and tap another hole into the intake manifold next to the other 2 temp sensors which should be more precise.
Also once it runs above the low speed setting, its annoyingly loud and you cant understand anyones word near the car. Same goes for inside the cabin once it got the full speed setting. I a bit sensitive on the ears so it annnoys me a bit.
A different control unit which kicks the fans-in earlier at its lowest setting to prevent the car getting hot in the first place would be better IMHO.
I will look a bit deeper into it the next couple of years. Currently im restoring a badly rusted-through 2001 E55 AMG W210. Then my 300E is on the list and after that i will go back to the 500E and finish that one.
Update ---- reading through this thread has been super educational. Thank you @Christian_K and @Jelmer (where art thou?) for pioneering this. For what it is worth, I looked here - Amazon.com
Does the Flex-a-lite controller really run at "binary cycles between 60% and 100%" and "not true PWM"?
Now in 2024, of course, the discussion is all around brushless electric fans (like those installed as OE on modern MBs) and PWM control - Micro Autonomations
Does the Flex-a-lite controller really run at "binary cycles between 60% and 100%" and "not true PWM"?
Now in 2024, of course, the discussion is all around brushless electric fans (like those installed as OE on modern MBs) and PWM control - Micro Autonomations
Interesting... he is using a controller from AutoCoolGuy, that cost $285 plus accessories. I hadn't heard of this one before. Not sure I'm impressed with the design or features vs the Dave Brown Controller (link) which is only $150.
BTW, is TFNT / Mr. FNT thinking of dropping an M120 into the W124? While that's awesome, it also won't work with that fan setup, or even with the radiator in the stock location.
BTW, is TFNT / Mr. FNT thinking of dropping an M120 into the W124? While that's awesome, it also won't work with that fan setup, or even with the radiator in the stock location.
I do not believe this is the case.
BTW, I tried to look up this thread above but it is a dead link. Then, remembering that the 126 content got cleaved off to the 126board, I searched the 126 board for "Weekend Upgrade Twin Electric Fans Install How To w Many Pictures" and couldn't find it.
Anyone know where this thread lives now so that we can read through it? Thanks.
Thread 'HOW-TO: Install Twin Electric Fans'
HOW-TO: Install Twin Electric Fans | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles
HOW-TO: Install Twin Electric Fans | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles
Thanks. The name of the thread referenced in the (dead) URL in 2012 is "https://www.500eboard.co/forums/showthread.php?2817-Weekend-Upgrade-Twin-Electric-Fans-Install-How-To-w-Many-Pictures"Thread 'HOW-TO: Install Twin Electric Fans'
HOW-TO: Install Twin Electric Fans | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles
It showed up for me as:
I didn't know this "weekend upgrade twin electric...." thread had been renamed "HOW-TO: Install Twin Electric Fans." ... but now I do! Thanks!
Hello fellas. It's been a while. I went with AutoCoolGuy for several reasons. One being availability. I looked at several different controllers, one being the Dave Brown. The Dave Brown while cheaper, didn't have any in stock at the time and seems to not have any in stock still. I did not want to wait the 4 to 6 weeks for one to be built. Two, Dave Brown is in Oregon. AutoCoolGuy is an hour away from me. Not only is he close but he answers the phone himself. He had controllers in stock, and I even met up with him and he walked me through his workshop, so I had a controller same day. He's some older gentleman making these controllers in his retirement, and I wanted to support a local business. Dave Brown only has NPT temperature sensors available. On the W124 there isn't a location close enough to the radiator outlet to drill and tap to install a threaded temperature sensor making the NPT sensors unusable. The AutoCoolGuy offers NPT sensors, but they come standard with a brass sensor designed to be used with metal radiator outlet. While the radiator on the W124 is plastic, I used a metal radiator hose coupler and installed it in line with the lower radiator hose as close to the outlet as possible and placed the temp sensor on that coupler. The W124 is not in the garage, and I get home when its dark. The weekends have been raining during the day to continuing on the wiring has not been possible.Interesting... he is using a controller from AutoCoolGuy, that cost $285 plus accessories. I hadn't heard of this one before. Not sure I'm impressed with the design or features vs the Dave Brown Controller (link) which is only $150.
BTW, is TFNT / Mr. FNT thinking of dropping an M120 into the W124? While that's awesome, it also won't work with that fan setup, or even with the radiator in the stock location.
View attachment 182565
To answer gsxr's question, yes, I "plan" on putting the M120 in the W124. I am in the middle of rebuilding the M120 which is turning out to be way more expensive than the M119 haha. Yes, I know it will require massive quantities of modifications. The electric fan I am using will be way too thick for the M120. I'm using the CLA fan because it was free. It just happens to be not too thick to use on the W124. I think a fan out of a W231 SL550 would be MUCH better. It's larger and thinner. But...my cost on that fan is about $800. I also plan on using my 3D scanner and 3D printer to design motor mounts for the M120 to W124 chassis and then have them made out of billet (mega bucks I know). There are a lot of stars that have to align for it to work properly.
Hello! Welcome to the board, Jamie, and thanks for putting up your content for all of us to vicariously follow. I look forward to your developments with great enthusiasm. Btw just a note of the Microautonomations (DaveB) controller—it can use a single wire NPT sensor, dual wire GM TX3 sensor, or interface with a factory EFI 0-5v sensor, either upwards or downwards going. I thiiiink both @Rouven036 and @jhodg5ck have used the Microautonomations controller with the factory 4 pin temp sensor on the M119 before…
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Mr. FNT’s answer above indicates that he does intend to install the M120 in a W124 chassis. I had not directly garnered that from his earlier M120 rebuild videos.
Interesting…
Awesome background info - thanks for the additional details!
This is amazing. Would love for you to start a new thread on this forum documenting your M120 conversion as it progresses. Very, very few of these conversions have been done, worldwide. There's some tidbits of information which have come to light over the years from past conversions, a couple of which have been 7.xL M120's in the 124.036 chassis with 500-575hp. (!!)
Locating the Goldilocks fan will be a challenge - thin as possible, while having enough air movement capacity / CFM. Having a full-custom, all-aluminum radiator fabricated might be helpful so you aren't dealing with fixed dimensions, and fixed points for various hose connections. Something to think about anyway. I don't know what other W124/M120 conversions used.
Keep in mind you don't need a new fan. Used ones are often available for a fraction of the new cost, although it may take some searching to find the specific part number you want. I assume you are familiar with the car-part.com nationwide salvage yard search engine.
The mounting may be one of the easier hurdles to overcome. Clearance at the front (radiator/condenser, upper/lower supports for those) and firewall clearance are some of the bigger headaches - especially if you want to retain functional air conditioning.
BTW, @friendlymbtech - welcome to the forum!
Side note, @friendlymbtech - not sure if you were aware, but the 400E/500E radiators are NLA from both Mercedes and from Behr. Only option left is Nissens, and some oddball "APF" no-name brand that has recently appeared on eBay, neither of which are very enticing.
FWIW this is an idea that @virage graciously gave to us .... just putting this here for posterity - part number 204-500-02-93 - PWM electric fan used on various w204 C300/C350s as well as w212 E350/500s. Note the thickness - just around 3" thick.
The is the w124 500E measurement with the upper fan shroud off --- the measurement shows just under 4" from the face of the water pump pulley to the radiator.
The is the w124 500E measurement with the upper fan shroud off --- the measurement shows just under 4" from the face of the water pump pulley to the radiator.
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Ooopppsss!!! I fixed it!204 Part number, not 124 part number… you’re confusing me @Jlaa … you know I can barely read as it is.
Me: “They used 124 parts in all those cars and they’re still not making them anymore?”
Um… no.
maw
I recently replaced mine with BEHR's premium line (made in South Africa). However, according to information on the Japanese internet, the quality of the recent BEHR, even the premium line, is not good, and I have found countless information that it started leaking within a year. (Not only on the W124, but on all types of vehicles)
I hope Mercedes-Benz will remanufacture them with high quality.
Mercedes just reboxed the Mahle/Behr (SA/RSA) Premium line and put their sticker on it... not likely to be any better quality than the Mahle/Behr aftermarket.
If there are issues with Behr also... sounds like the only viable options are to have the originals rebuild (i.e., Reseda Radiator in USA), or just get an all-aluminum custom radiator fabricated which should last the lifetime of the car.
Fan blade profile is something which I haven't seen mentioned before in this thread about electric fan conversions.
The m119 engined w124.036 E500E "meat chopper" 9-blade metal fan is a straight blade affair.
The m119 engine in the w210.072 (1997 E420) also uses a 9-blade fan with a straight blade profile, albeit made of plastic.
Here is something I found that discusses three types of blade profiles - straight, curved, and curved-paddle. It is interesting to note the compromises that each of the blade-profiles engender.
In this article comparing SPAL fans, the curved-paddle design flows the same amount of CFM as the straight-bladed model, but requires a good deal more electrical energy to run. The curved-blade design moves more CFM than either the straight-blade or curved-paddle-blade design and requires a modest amount of electrical energy run - more than the straight-blade design but less than the curved-paddle-blade design.
The straight-blade design is loudest. The curved-blade design is quieter, and the curved-paddle-blade design is quieter still. The w204/212 fan mentioned above - part 204-500-02-93 - is a curved-paddle-blade design.
www.streetmusclemag.com
The m119 engined w124.036 E500E "meat chopper" 9-blade metal fan is a straight blade affair.
The m119 engine in the w210.072 (1997 E420) also uses a 9-blade fan with a straight blade profile, albeit made of plastic.
Here is something I found that discusses three types of blade profiles - straight, curved, and curved-paddle. It is interesting to note the compromises that each of the blade-profiles engender.
In this article comparing SPAL fans, the curved-paddle design flows the same amount of CFM as the straight-bladed model, but requires a good deal more electrical energy to run. The curved-blade design moves more CFM than either the straight-blade or curved-paddle-blade design and requires a modest amount of electrical energy run - more than the straight-blade design but less than the curved-paddle-blade design.
The straight-blade design is loudest. The curved-blade design is quieter, and the curved-paddle-blade design is quieter still. The w204/212 fan mentioned above - part 204-500-02-93 - is a curved-paddle-blade design.
SPAL Electric Fans: Keeping Things Cool With Different Blade Types
We take a look at 3 different fan offerings from SPAL USA. Each one offers different features and benefits for your next hot rod build.
Thanks for posting @Jlaa!
Which one of the two SPALs is preferable; the 204 with 600W-12,5V or the 212 with 850W-13V?
If both gives the same or higher CFM as the stock viscous fan it may not matter.
Which one of the two SPALs is preferable; the 204 with 600W-12,5V or the 212 with 850W-13V?
If both gives the same or higher CFM as the stock viscous fan it may not matter.
We know dimensions on the 204/600W unit. I don't think we have dimensions for the 850W fan (212-906-10-02), and don't know if there may be fitment issues. Note the controller/electronics is a separate box on the 850W fan, not integrated with the center motor assembly - this could present packaging issues?
In this case it isn't likely that the larger one will be "better". The main improvement with the OE fan and PWM speed control should be from improved airflow at low speed / low RPM, along with the ability to not run the fan at all when engine temp is below your setpoint. The fans should almost never need to run at maximum speed, or anywhere near max speed. If the larger unit fits no problem, great... but if not, I'd stick with something that will have minimum installation headaches.
Photos attached below of the 850W unit for reference.
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Hi @500AMM. I am inclined to agree and stick with the 204 fan unit for packaging reasons. As well, we know it is also used in w212 E500.We know dimensions on the 204/600W unit. I don't think we have dimensions for the 850W fan (212-906-10-02), and don't know if there may be fitment issues. Note the controller/electronics is a separate box on the 850W fan, not integrated with the center motor assembly - this could preset packaging issues?
In this case it isn't likely that the larger one will be "better". The main improvement with the OE fan and PWM speed control should be from improved airflow at low speed / low RPM, along with the ability to not run the fan at all when engine temp is below your setpoint. The fans should almost never need to run at maximum speed, or anywhere near max speed. If the larger unit fits no problem, great... but if not, I'd stick with something that will have minimum installation headaches.
Photos attached below of the 850W unit for reference.
I think it useful to articulate what problem we are trying to solve for by potentially switching to an electric fan - #1) noise and #2) engine cooling capability at low engine RPM.
#2 I think is a weak point of our E500Es because the speed of the mechanical fan is fixed to be no faster than engine speed. I have noticed, in my car, that when I exit the high speed motorway at an engine temp of 80C and drive on local roads at 15-25 mph for a few miles with at least 15 stop signs to get home, that my engine temps will creep to 100C. This, I think, is because in order for me to get home, I must climb several steep hills (high load) while the car just uses the massive torque of the m119 to keep the car in the highest gear possible (low revs).…which means super low fan speeds. And, my climate is very temperate! It ranges from 50F-85F year round!
When I park in my garage, I have noticed that revving my engine to 2500-3000RPM for a few seconds will bring down the engine temps very quickly.
For this reason I think the cooling issue is not due to lack of max airflow from the fan (which the 850W fan would address) but due to the fact that the mechanical fan is fixed to go no faster than engine speed. So, I suspect running the 600W fan at moderate speeds at low engine speeds might very well address the cooling issue.
With a mechanically-driven viscous clutch - nope. There's no way to get the mechanical fan spinning faster at low engine RPM's.
With a PWM-controlled electric fan, yes - you can adjust the controller to your preference!
Here is Part 2 of the fan conversion:
One note, I was unable to use about 4 minutes of video because there was no sound for some reason. I've been sick on top of the bad weather so maybe I forgot to turn on the microphone. The majority of what wasn't usable was the routing for the wiring. I removed the passenger front seat, rear seat back, rear seat bottom cushion, passenger floor carpet, rear carpet, radio, passenger air bag, passenger and driver under dash panels, b pillar trim on passenger side, and trunk trim. Along the passenger side of the vehicle is a channel for wiring. All the wiring I added fit inside this channel. All the wiring routed into the engine compartment was sent through the upper grommet behind the module box. The heavy gauge wiring for the fan and the wire for the AC signal was routed from that grommet towards the driver's side under the blower motor housing. The wiring for the sensor was ran along the passenger side. The wiring for the circuit 15 and the failsafe switch was all routed through the dash and behind the radio. All wiring was ran parallel to existing wiring giving the appearance of factory wiring. All wiring was wrapped in harness tape to further aid in that.
I let the car run for quite a long time last night with the heater on while reassembled the interior. The fan was barely blowing the entire time and the temperature reached a certain point and did not fluctuate one bit. I drove the car to and from work today. The entire time the temperature might have fluctuated *maybe* 1mm on the gauge.
Temperature pretty much stayed right here. The was the highest it went. No matter how fast or slow, stop and go to 80mph, it stayed more or less right there. Before, temperature would fluctuate more than that. Never overheating but the range would be more. I need to fine tune the temperature setting on the controller with an accurate IR temp gun. Mine seems to be on the fritz. What little I did use the AC yesterday when it was slightly warm, the AC was colder than I was expecting for just sitting there. Once the weather starts getting warm, then it will really be put to the test. So far, I'm happy with it. We will see when ambient temperatures are another 50 degrees warmer. If it can keep up, it will be more than worth the time and effort. What I am really excited about is hopefully having consistent AC vent temperatures in traffic. Next tank of gas, I will keep track of the MPGs. Usually, I get 20-21 MPG. Maybe I'll get 1 or 2 MPG without the pounds of rotational mass attached to the engine, not to mention the physical resistance of the spinning fan.
One note, I was unable to use about 4 minutes of video because there was no sound for some reason. I've been sick on top of the bad weather so maybe I forgot to turn on the microphone. The majority of what wasn't usable was the routing for the wiring. I removed the passenger front seat, rear seat back, rear seat bottom cushion, passenger floor carpet, rear carpet, radio, passenger air bag, passenger and driver under dash panels, b pillar trim on passenger side, and trunk trim. Along the passenger side of the vehicle is a channel for wiring. All the wiring I added fit inside this channel. All the wiring routed into the engine compartment was sent through the upper grommet behind the module box. The heavy gauge wiring for the fan and the wire for the AC signal was routed from that grommet towards the driver's side under the blower motor housing. The wiring for the sensor was ran along the passenger side. The wiring for the circuit 15 and the failsafe switch was all routed through the dash and behind the radio. All wiring was ran parallel to existing wiring giving the appearance of factory wiring. All wiring was wrapped in harness tape to further aid in that.
I let the car run for quite a long time last night with the heater on while reassembled the interior. The fan was barely blowing the entire time and the temperature reached a certain point and did not fluctuate one bit. I drove the car to and from work today. The entire time the temperature might have fluctuated *maybe* 1mm on the gauge.
Temperature pretty much stayed right here. The was the highest it went. No matter how fast or slow, stop and go to 80mph, it stayed more or less right there. Before, temperature would fluctuate more than that. Never overheating but the range would be more. I need to fine tune the temperature setting on the controller with an accurate IR temp gun. Mine seems to be on the fritz. What little I did use the AC yesterday when it was slightly warm, the AC was colder than I was expecting for just sitting there. Once the weather starts getting warm, then it will really be put to the test. So far, I'm happy with it. We will see when ambient temperatures are another 50 degrees warmer. If it can keep up, it will be more than worth the time and effort. What I am really excited about is hopefully having consistent AC vent temperatures in traffic. Next tank of gas, I will keep track of the MPGs. Usually, I get 20-21 MPG. Maybe I'll get 1 or 2 MPG without the pounds of rotational mass attached to the engine, not to mention the physical resistance of the spinning fan.
I mention it briefly in Part 1. Basically my idea to secure the top of the shroud was to use the heads of bolts to keep it from moving towards the engine and to pull it towards the front of the car as much as possible. The closer I can get it to fit to the radiator, the more clearance there would be with other engine pulleys and the upper radiator hose. The bolt head (the bolt is pointing upward) catches on the upper lip of the radiator core. Around the bolt head, to give a bit more clearance and to also prevent metal on metal contact, I placed a very short section of rubber hose.
@friendlymbtech, does this single fan installation make the dual auxilliary fans redundant?
Another question; you mentioned in your first viedo that the fan & shroud for the SL is narrower, do you know how much that could be, or the exact thickness/size on it?
Really interesting topic, many thanks for posting!
Another question; you mentioned in your first viedo that the fan & shroud for the SL is narrower, do you know how much that could be, or the exact thickness/size on it?
Really interesting topic, many thanks for posting!
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I guess only time will tell. It depends on max air flow of the single electric fan and demand under various conditions. Now that the cooling fan demand is based on coolant temperature instead of the temperature of the air flowing through the radiator heating up the fan clutch and changing engagement of the mechanical fan, the actuation of the fan is more precise and immediate. The aux/AC fans would come on once engine temperature exceeded a certain point or depending on AC usage. Once summer is here, we'll really see if the single electric fan makes the other two redundant.
@friendlymbtech ---
Appreciate the thought that went in to this! Can you explain why you decided to drive the electric fan based on coolant temperature existing the radiator and not based on coolant from the factory OE coolant temperature measuring location? Your video mentioned that "coolant exiting the block is always the same temperature" but this isn't exactly the case right? I mean, the engine might add x units of heat to the coolant to y1 coolant temperature, for y1+x coolant temperature once the coolant exits the block ..... but if the coolant starts at y1+10 temperature then the temperature of the coolant existing the block is y1+10+x right? The coolant temp existing the block is not fixed....
Or am I misunderstanding your video?
Appreciate the thought that went in to this! Can you explain why you decided to drive the electric fan based on coolant temperature existing the radiator and not based on coolant from the factory OE coolant temperature measuring location? Your video mentioned that "coolant exiting the block is always the same temperature" but this isn't exactly the case right? I mean, the engine might add x units of heat to the coolant to y1 coolant temperature, for y1+x coolant temperature once the coolant exits the block ..... but if the coolant starts at y1+10 temperature then the temperature of the coolant existing the block is y1+10+x right? The coolant temp existing the block is not fixed....
Or am I misunderstanding your video?
Ah, so you drilled a hole in the top lip of the radiator shroud, and the bolt goes upwards through the radiator shroud, right? The the bolts themselves are not going through any hole in the aluminum radiator ---- they are just "clamping," using one side of the bolt head, the aluminum lip @ the top of the radiator that you smushed down, right?
The function of the thermostat is to maintain coolant temperature in the engine. The purpose of the fans, be it mechanical or electric, is to reduce coolant temperature in the radiator and reduce AC pressure depending on demand. The fans will never reduce the temperature of coolant exiting the engine because of the thermostat maintaining the temperature within a certain range. The fans can and will reduce the temperature of the coolant exiting the radiator though. That is their whole purpose. That's why, for function of the electric fan, the sensor needs to be as close to the radiator outlet as possible. The mechanical fan clutch worked the same way. When coolant temp rose, so did the temp of the air flowing through the radiator causing the clutch to heat up and engage more.
Correct.
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