I noticed yesterday that my hood pad is detaching from the hood. It is sagging severely. The adhesive that formerly held it on has clearly given up the fight. I tried some spray adhesive that I had sitting around but it did nothing. Any suggestions for products and/or techniques for reattachment?
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Hood Pad adhesive
- Thread starter Prime
- Start date
Yep, I know a lot of people use the 3M Super Trim Adhesive spray adhesive. It's expensive though, and I think you get one chance to "tack" the pad in place... if it's crooked, you're screwed. It does stick very well and last a long time. The Liquid Nails takes a while to set up, so you have plenty of time to reposition the hood pad before it sets up permanently. It's a bit more work to use the Liquid Nails as you have to press hard on the pad, all over, to get it the bead flattened out. It's also a lot cheaper than the 3M spray.
It is not necessary to remove the old adhesive if you use Liquid Nails, just scrape off all the old loose stuff, and attach the new pad right on top. If you are using 3M Super spray adhesive, it may be necessary to remove the old adhesive to get a proper bond to the sheet metal.
I would highly recommend the OE hood pad... but dealer list price is a ridiculous $122. If you live in the USA, you can get the identical hood pad from AutohausAZ.com for $49, part number 124-680-00-25. I don't know of any other vendor who carries the real OEM pad for that low of a price. [Edit: As of Nov-2017, I don't know if AHAZ still carries an OEM hood pad that is identical to the OE/dealer pad.]
It is not necessary to remove the old adhesive if you use Liquid Nails, just scrape off all the old loose stuff, and attach the new pad right on top. If you are using 3M Super spray adhesive, it may be necessary to remove the old adhesive to get a proper bond to the sheet metal.
I would highly recommend the OE hood pad... but dealer list price is a ridiculous $122. If you live in the USA, you can get the identical hood pad from AutohausAZ.com for $49, part number 124-680-00-25. I don't know of any other vendor who carries the real OEM pad for that low of a price. [Edit: As of Nov-2017, I don't know if AHAZ still carries an OEM hood pad that is identical to the OE/dealer pad.]
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I've used the 3M Super Trim Adhesive in the past and agree that it works well. If you go this route (and it's not too difficult to find this stuff) be sure to get the SUPER Trim Adheisve, not just the normal 3M Trim Adhesive. The normal stuff won't last more than a week or two before the pad will start to drop off again.
It is indeed important to scrape/remove the old leavings of the old adhesive from the underside of the hood (and the pad, if reusing). However, I'd highly recommend just getting a new pad as the age of the cars' soft parts (chassis rubber, hood pads, etc.) will necessitate a replacement sooner or later. Better to just get a new one and install it once, as opposed to re-attaching the original pad now, having it disintegrate in a year or three, purchasing a new one and then having to do the process all over again.
So if you go the 3M route, be sure to get SUPER Trim Adhesive.
Cheers,
Gerry
It is indeed important to scrape/remove the old leavings of the old adhesive from the underside of the hood (and the pad, if reusing). However, I'd highly recommend just getting a new pad as the age of the cars' soft parts (chassis rubber, hood pads, etc.) will necessitate a replacement sooner or later. Better to just get a new one and install it once, as opposed to re-attaching the original pad now, having it disintegrate in a year or three, purchasing a new one and then having to do the process all over again.
So if you go the 3M route, be sure to get SUPER Trim Adhesive.
Cheers,
Gerry
If using Liquid Nails, you definitely don't need to scrape off the old adhesive... I never did, and the new pad always stuck perfectly, even years later. Removal of the old adhesive may be required for the 3M however. I updated my previous post to mention this.
I would never, ever re-use the old hood pad. Shell out the fitty bucks and buy a new one if you're going to put the effort into this project. It really does help make the engine compartment look spiffier, and should last another 15+ years.
I would never, ever re-use the old hood pad. Shell out the fitty bucks and buy a new one if you're going to put the effort into this project. It really does help make the engine compartment look spiffier, and should last another 15+ years.
Thanks for the responses.
My mechanic also recommended the 3M and a new pad. His price was $75, which seems pretty in line. His one "negative" comment about the 3M was that once it's on, if the pad ever needs to be removed I will need to take if off in chunks with a putty knife. I kind of hate to buy a new pad because the old one is in good shape, but I hear where you're coming from, and know that it's the right move.
My mechanic also recommended the 3M and a new pad. His price was $75, which seems pretty in line. His one "negative" comment about the 3M was that once it's on, if the pad ever needs to be removed I will need to take if off in chunks with a putty knife. I kind of hate to buy a new pad because the old one is in good shape, but I hear where you're coming from, and know that it's the right move.
Big thanks to Dave for the recomendation on Autohaus and Liquid Nails "Heavy Duty".
I picked up new pads for two of my Benz for under $100 and the Liquid Nails "Heavy Duty" adhesive was cheap at a local Home Depote.
Went on perfect, just needed to pay more attn to the set time.
Cheap and perfect fix to a problem I had been putting off..
Tanx
I picked up new pads for two of my Benz for under $100 and the Liquid Nails "Heavy Duty" adhesive was cheap at a local Home Depote.
Went on perfect, just needed to pay more attn to the set time.
Cheap and perfect fix to a problem I had been putting off..
Tanx
I just installed a new hood pad on my 560SEC about three nights ago. It took me about a half hour. I used the 3M 8090 Super Trim Adhesive, which I had purchased via Amazon.com for about $13 a can. I bought two cans but only ended up using about 3/4 of one can.
What you do is spray a thick layer on the back of the pad and the underside of the hood, wait 10 minutes, and then carefully mate them together. I used a paint roller after doing this to make sure that everything was flat and sucked down to the hood contour. I also tucked the edges of the pad into the "slots" along the vertical sides and along the rear of the SEC hood.
Two tips when installing a hood pad: cover the engine when the hood's open (a painter's drop cloth is perfect; I used a mover's blanket) and make sure that the underside of the hood doesn't have large chunks of the old pad or adhesive attached to it. It doesn't have to be 100% clean, but just get all the large crap off of it. Also, be sure to apply at least two if not 3 coats of the 8090 adhesive to both surfaces. You want it nice and thick on there, and then you need to wait 10-15 minutes for it to "set" properly before you mate them together. It helps to have a helper when affixing the pad.
BTW, I bought my pad from parts.com (genuine MB) and it was around $52. This was cheaper than the "aftermarket" products being sold for around $75-80 buy the common aftermarket MB parts online sellers. One case where the "real deal" can be had for cheaper than the aftermarket stuff.
Cheers,
Gerry
What you do is spray a thick layer on the back of the pad and the underside of the hood, wait 10 minutes, and then carefully mate them together. I used a paint roller after doing this to make sure that everything was flat and sucked down to the hood contour. I also tucked the edges of the pad into the "slots" along the vertical sides and along the rear of the SEC hood.
Two tips when installing a hood pad: cover the engine when the hood's open (a painter's drop cloth is perfect; I used a mover's blanket) and make sure that the underside of the hood doesn't have large chunks of the old pad or adhesive attached to it. It doesn't have to be 100% clean, but just get all the large crap off of it. Also, be sure to apply at least two if not 3 coats of the 8090 adhesive to both surfaces. You want it nice and thick on there, and then you need to wait 10-15 minutes for it to "set" properly before you mate them together. It helps to have a helper when affixing the pad.
BTW, I bought my pad from parts.com (genuine MB) and it was around $52. This was cheaper than the "aftermarket" products being sold for around $75-80 buy the common aftermarket MB parts online sellers. One case where the "real deal" can be had for cheaper than the aftermarket stuff.
Cheers,
Gerry
I also used the 3M Super Adhisive on the hood of my 500SL a few years back. It worked great.
One thing I did differently was that I removed the hood from the car so that I could lay it on it's back to do the replacement. It made it easy to align and also there was no problem of gravity trying to pull it off.
Taking the hood off was about a 10 minute job but you do need a second pair of hands. I just laid it on a big soft quilt on a table.
One thing I did differently was that I removed the hood from the car so that I could lay it on it's back to do the replacement. It made it easy to align and also there was no problem of gravity trying to pull it off.
Taking the hood off was about a 10 minute job but you do need a second pair of hands. I just laid it on a big soft quilt on a table.
Just finished doing this last weekend on the '95 E320 wagon.
Due to the high-heat and humidity here in Florida, I had to use Liquid Nails Extreme Heavy-Duty, as the temperature was already over 90-F.
Unfortunately, that also means that the Liquid Nails is VERY liquidy, and needed almost 20-minutes just to tack up.
Also, I spread the 3.5 tubes of Liquid Nails on both the hood and the pad's edges (5-in. in) by gloved hand.
FWIW, I chose the hood-pad with the "foil" insulator over the exhaust header location, as this pad design has held-up 10+ years on the C36-powered W124 wagon.
I used a medium width paint roller to work pressure into the pad, let her sit 15-mins. and checked the adhesion on the edges, finally let her sit vertical for 10+ hrs. before closing her down and doing a final "pull" test, prior to the test drive.
FWIW, I used a plastic scraper to remove the old hood-pad, and wiped the hood down with two coats of lacquer thinner to remove any oil/grease, followed by a hit of shop air to remove any debris.
Of course a large drop cloth over the engine-bay helped here to catch any debris and dripping Liquid Nails.
It's been a week, and she's holding well.
neil
Due to the high-heat and humidity here in Florida, I had to use Liquid Nails Extreme Heavy-Duty, as the temperature was already over 90-F.
Unfortunately, that also means that the Liquid Nails is VERY liquidy, and needed almost 20-minutes just to tack up.
Also, I spread the 3.5 tubes of Liquid Nails on both the hood and the pad's edges (5-in. in) by gloved hand.
FWIW, I chose the hood-pad with the "foil" insulator over the exhaust header location, as this pad design has held-up 10+ years on the C36-powered W124 wagon.
I used a medium width paint roller to work pressure into the pad, let her sit 15-mins. and checked the adhesion on the edges, finally let her sit vertical for 10+ hrs. before closing her down and doing a final "pull" test, prior to the test drive.
FWIW, I used a plastic scraper to remove the old hood-pad, and wiped the hood down with two coats of lacquer thinner to remove any oil/grease, followed by a hit of shop air to remove any debris.
Of course a large drop cloth over the engine-bay helped here to catch any debris and dripping Liquid Nails.
It's been a week, and she's holding well.
neilAttachments
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I take hits of shop air all the time, it's good stuff!
Thanks for the updated DIY, Neil. I know GSXR is a big fan of Liquid Nails for this job. Was the "foil" hood pad all that was available (as it is now, for the V126) or is the non-foil version still purchasable?
Cheers,
Gerry
You do not need to remove the old adhesive. If you have given it a thorough washing with a pressure washer you are good to go. The only things that would even begin to soften the glue are also going to start removing the paint...
Alert,
The ONLY glue worth getting for this job is the Wurth Hi Temp spray.
I tried it with the 3M and it failed in two days. Jono said that the chemical 3M used to use to make it stick had been removed.
The Wurth spray is designed for this application.
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-hi-temperature-spray-adhesive.html
Just ordered three more hood pads from Gainsville Mercedes
The ONLY glue worth getting for this job is the Wurth Hi Temp spray.
I tried it with the 3M and it failed in two days. Jono said that the chemical 3M used to use to make it stick had been removed.
The Wurth spray is designed for this application.
http://www.goodspeedmotoring.com/wurth-hi-temperature-spray-adhesive.html
Just ordered three more hood pads from Gainsville Mercedes
Thanks, looks like I'll finally be getting around to installing that hood pad I purchased 3 months ago.
Trae, let us know how the application process is with Wurth (or 3M, for that matter). My understanding was when the pad hit the hood, it was stuck, and would be very difficult to re-postion or re-align. True? False? Other?
The MB goop specified in the FSM works very well but is a little spendy, and very messy. It has the consistency of rubber cement, but allows lots of movement during installation. I used this once and it's still holding fine a few years later.
The MB goop specified in the FSM works very well but is a little spendy, and very messy. It has the consistency of rubber cement, but allows lots of movement during installation. I used this once and it's still holding fine a few years later.
Dave, I recently installed a new pad in my E320 using the 3M spray on stuff specified for plastic, foam etc. Trick is to cover both the new pad and hood completely with adhesive then let it set up for 10 minutes or so until it's tacky. Then with a helper install the pad. You have one chance to get it in position so a test fit is important. Also ambient temperature can't be too cold. I used the 3M product on my old 190E and it held for years .
Regards,
Peter Weissman
Regards,
Peter Weissman
According to Jono, the OLD 3M formulas have been replaced with other chemicals that DO NOT HOLD.
I replaced the pad on the E320 cab. with 3M and it let loose within two weeks.
Guys, the Wurth can says that is is designed specifically for hood pads. Why try anything else? This is all but guaranteed to work, and Klink said you don't even have to remove all the old glue.
Just scrape what you can, wash, dry, and glue.
Used the, very easy to work with, Wurth product and it is still sticking.
You can take your time with the Wurth as it has to set up at least 10 minutes.
Sprayed the pad, then the hood. Working from the bottom up, I took a paint roller and pressed/rolled the pad up to the top. Another person helping is of great benefit.
I did not have to re position because I got lucky. Don't know if you can move it very well once it is down, BUT the directions say that it does not set up for a while. I think 45min. -1:00.
I am so smitten with the results that I ordered three more pads yesterday to do the rest of the fleet.
Don't know what the chick magnet factor is on this upgrade, but it has to be up there!
I replaced the pad on the E320 cab. with 3M and it let loose within two weeks.
Guys, the Wurth can says that is is designed specifically for hood pads. Why try anything else? This is all but guaranteed to work, and Klink said you don't even have to remove all the old glue.
Just scrape what you can, wash, dry, and glue.
Used the, very easy to work with, Wurth product and it is still sticking.
You can take your time with the Wurth as it has to set up at least 10 minutes.
Sprayed the pad, then the hood. Working from the bottom up, I took a paint roller and pressed/rolled the pad up to the top. Another person helping is of great benefit.
I did not have to re position because I got lucky. Don't know if you can move it very well once it is down, BUT the directions say that it does not set up for a while. I think 45min. -1:00.
I am so smitten with the results that I ordered three more pads yesterday to do the rest of the fleet.
Don't know what the chick magnet factor is on this upgrade, but it has to be up there!
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I'm not sure what 3M adhesive ppl are using or recommending. I think ppl mistakenly grab 3M 77 instead of ?97 which is part of the problem.
I thought for heat environment scotch(3m) 1357 seems to really stay put. A quick look on 3M's website shows it good for intermediate heat up to 300F.
I don't think liquid nails will hold up to the heat.
Bottom line: Get a contact adhesive with good medium to high temp performance.
I thought for heat environment scotch(3m) 1357 seems to really stay put. A quick look on 3M's website shows it good for intermediate heat up to 300F.
I don't think liquid nails will hold up to the heat.
Bottom line: Get a contact adhesive with good medium to high temp performance.
Given the latest info I'd use either the factory OE MB adhesive, or Wurth. Not worth risking the 3M given the change in formula.
Liquid Nails (as described earlier in this thread) is still fine, but it's much more difficult to work with IMO... you have to press very hard on every square inch of the pad to push it into the adhesive. The main advantage is you have plenty of time to re-position the pad as the 'Nails takes a long time to set up.
Liquid Nails (as described earlier in this thread) is still fine, but it's much more difficult to work with IMO... you have to press very hard on every square inch of the pad to push it into the adhesive. The main advantage is you have plenty of time to re-position the pad as the 'Nails takes a long time to set up.
There isn’t some stuff recommended to me by a guy in service at Mercedes. They technicians call it “Gorilla Snot” and it comes in a tube. I used this stuff to attach a new hood pad to my 16V a few months ago and it is holding fast.
3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive
Robert
3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive
Robert
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FYI the yellow use to always work better than the black.
So what's wrong with 1357? 1357L I believe is the spray can. Why would use use the wurth product which has a lower temperature rating?
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...-Adhesive-EC-1357?N=5002385+3292667546&rt=rud
So what's wrong with 1357? 1357L I believe is the spray can. Why would use use the wurth product which has a lower temperature rating?
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company...-Adhesive-EC-1357?N=5002385+3292667546&rt=rud
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Wurth Hi-Temperature Spray Adhesive will hold tepmeratures of 200 degrees F and intermittently up to 240 degrees F. Excellent bonding to wood, metal or plastic. Great for headliners and hood insulation pads. The adhesive cure time allows for repositioning. Features
- Excellent heat and water resistance
- High immediate bond strength
- Repositionable during assembly
- Plasticizer resistant
- No need to purge can after use
- Long bonding range (5 minutes to 1 hour)
- Rated to 200?F (240?F intermittent)
- Great on headliners, hood silencer pads, etc.
- Excellent heat and water resistance
- High immediate bond strength
- Repositionable during assembly
- Plasticizer resistant
- No need to purge can after use
- Long bonding range (5 minutes to 1 hour)
- Rated to 200?F (240?F intermittent)
- Great on headliners, hood silencer pads, etc.
Is it the regular version or heavy duty version of liquid nails?If using Liquid Nails, you definitely don't need to scrape off the old adhesive... I never did, and the new pad always stuck perfectly, even years later. Removal of the old adhesive may be required for the 3M however. I updated my previous post to mention this.
I would never, ever re-use the old hood pad. Shell out the fitty bucks and buy a new one if you're going to put the effort into this project. It really does help make the engine compartment look spiffier, and should last another 15+ years.
Wow! The liquid nails is something else!
It gave me enough opportunity to make some adjustments before it set. I used a roller to ensure a good adherence between pad and substrate, and it’s solid.
Thanks for the pointers.
OMG good luck when your new pad needs to be removed. I can see it now, LTB facelift hood in any color.
I have always felt that Liquid Nails (while it works well) is a bit of "overkill" for exactly that reason -- it would be very very difficult to remove. LN is ideal for things like tile, flooring, paneling, and stuff that MUST not move, EVER.
The 3M 3090 Super Trim Adhesive can be layered on in much thinner coats, and works extremely well, and the pad can be much more easily removed if/when that time comes.
The 3M 3090 Super Trim Adhesive can be layered on in much thinner coats, and works extremely well, and the pad can be much more easily removed if/when that time comes.
If you have a pretty clean surface, that is to say nothing loose then applications of the 3m on both the hood and also the pad will be sufficient. Glued surface will stick to glued surface like a melted grilled cheese sandwich. It has been over a decade for mine on the C126 and it is still tight.
The main advantage to Liquid Nails is that you have plenty time to adjust the pad to the perfect location. This is ALMOST impossible with any of the 3M adhesives. First tack, it's there forever. Like superglue on your fingers. 
Unless you drive the car for a couple hundred thousand miles in hot weather, it's unlikely you'll need to repeat the pad replacement. While you might never get the Liquid Nails off the sheet metal, all you care about is getting the old pad off. The Liquid Nails isn't spread across the hood like peanut butter, you apply beads. There will still be space available to apply new beads on sheet metal, to attach the replacement pad 20 years from now.
Tip: When parking the car in summer, if possible, pop the hood. It keeps engine heat from baking the hood pad, and also reduces fossilization of rubber parts. Might not be practical if you park outdoors, but in our garage it's standard procedure, especially in summer months.
Unless you drive the car for a couple hundred thousand miles in hot weather, it's unlikely you'll need to repeat the pad replacement. While you might never get the Liquid Nails off the sheet metal, all you care about is getting the old pad off. The Liquid Nails isn't spread across the hood like peanut butter, you apply beads. There will still be space available to apply new beads on sheet metal, to attach the replacement pad 20 years from now.
Tip: When parking the car in summer, if possible, pop the hood. It keeps engine heat from baking the hood pad, and also reduces fossilization of rubber parts. Might not be practical if you park outdoors, but in our garage it's standard procedure, especially in summer months.
That’s what I didOoops. I meant a long bead, like applying caulking... not beads like gumdrop buttons.
View attachment 113693
View attachment 113694
I pop the hood every time I park in my garage - during all seasons.
