OWNER hsumeet (400E)

[hsumeet]

ADMIN EDIT: This is the car hsumeet purchased, a 1993 400E in Nautical Blue, non-ASR:

SOLD - 1993 400E, Nautical Blue / Cream-Beige, TMU, $5k (Dallas, TX) | 400E / E420 Cars for Sale

Nice looking car. Listed in Atlanta, located in Texas. Datacard: VIN Decoder for Mercedes-Benz drew https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/d/93-mercedes-400e-2nd-owner/6663418563.html '93 Mercedes 400E - 2nd owner - $4900 (Dallas, TX) VIN = WDBEA34E4PB943998 Mercedes W124 400E 4.2L DOHC V8...

www.500eboard.co

I agree. Worth the gamble. I and others here have spare parts for E420 / 400E cars should you need. Blue is a somewhat rare color I'd like to own.

drew

Thank you! Y'all are going to be an important part of bouncing ideas off of and an important resource to fix her up. I really like the color, even though black will always be my favorite Mercedes paint. This will be my fourth major paint project and hopefully the best one. Still can't believe how ruined the paint got in a couple of years...

 

[gsxr]

IME, once MB paint / clearcoat starts to fail, it fails rapidly if parked outside. UV rays just kill it. My beater / daily driver E420 is experiencing the same issue as seen with this blue car, as it's parked outside. The clearcoat is literally disintegrating everywhere. It's not worth a proper respray but I'm awfully tempted to get a cheap Maaco-Scheib job eventually. Even that would look better. And I could get the Pearl Black reshot as Sapphire Black!

Parked indoors out of the sun, the paint can last a long time.

 

[hsumeet]

IME, once MB paint / clearcoat starts to fail, it fails rapidly if parked outside. UV rays just kill it. My beater / daily driver E420 is experiencing the same issue as seen with this blue car, as it's parked outside. The clearcoat is literally disintegrating everywhere. It's not worth a proper respray but I'm awfully tempted to get a cheap Maaco-Scheib job eventually. Even that would look better. And I could get the Pearl Black reshot as Sapphire Black!

Parked indoors out of the sun, the paint can last a long time.

I can understand that, especially on a daily driver that doesn't get as much love as a garage queen would. A little wax would've gone a long way in preserving the paint for this guy though. Wishful thinking. And that paint job I would like to see. I've seen some awesome Maaco paint jobs and I've seen some that look like they were painted by a 10 year old. I've also heard if you do the prep work yourself it can make the end product that much nicer. How long have you had your daily?

 

[gsxr]

Yeah, 20/20 hindsight on my part... we owned the car from 2009-2012 and the paint was great, and it was parked inside (wife's daily driver). Then we sold it to a friend, who owned it from 2013-2018, and he parked it outside. It was during this time that the clearcoat just fell apart. I don't know what he was using for wax, but I agree, a really good UV-protecting wax/coating/sealant may have helped dramatically. When we got it back in 2018, only the roof, hood, and boot was really bad... but now the side panels are shot as well. Thankfully, the interior is still ok due to 3M ColorStable window tint and windshield sunshade use.

Learn from my mistakes: If you park outside, get UV protection on the paint & interior!

 

[MB V8]

My 2 cents hsumeet.

Bot my first 400E in 1997 for $25 grand. Bot another in 2003 for $9 grand for my daughters to drive as their "high school car".

2020 I still have both cars.

Buy it, restore it, have fun!

 

[hsumeet]

My 2 cents hsumeet.

Bot my first 400E in 1997 for $25 grand. Bot another in 2003 for $9 grand for my daughters to drive as their "high school car".

2020 I still have both cars.

Buy it, restore it, have fun!

That is the exact mentality I was expecting from this forum! I can't wait to delve into everything that needs to be addressed. Anxiously waiting for the morning drive (3.5 hours, Texas is too big). I wish I had known more about Mercedes when I was looking for my first car because one of these would have been high on the list. My dad fell in love with the first gen Acura TSX he saw one day and refused to entertain any other car for me. I was just thankful to have a car and told him I'd keep it forever and I still have her, going on 11 years and 260k miles. But man if I had just known about the W124 back then. Busy in other more "important" things haha.

And I don't know if I'd ever be able to stop giving my friend a hard time if the paint went from pristine to toast. Although 5 years to fail is somewhat better than the 2 of this one, I think? A solution that seems to be working for the outdoor cars has been ceramic coating, great alternative to waxes if you don't have the time or willpower to reapply so often. I was really late to the party on those.

 

[hsumeet]

About to start this drive to go look at the future baby of the family and I think I'm pretty well read into any potential problems thanks to this forum. Is there anything else that you would advise me to look at in this particular vehicle? Thank you in advance!

 

[Gatorblue92]

As long as the body is straight and rust free I think it’s definitely worth $1500. Not sure if it needs it or not but I’ve got a good upper harness for a 93 400e I’ll let go of cheaply.

 

[Kyiv]

About to start this drive to go look at the future baby of the family and I think I'm pretty well read into any potential problems thanks to this forum. Is there anything else that you would advise me to look at in this particular vehicle? Thank you in advance!

A delay in an engagement of a reverse gear will be an indication of a future trans rebuild. The longer the delay, the nearer the future. ($2k problem if you can remove/install transmission yourself).

 

[hsumeet]

For me the drive was more than worth it. Looking at the body, not a hint of a dent. The paint has been well taken by the sun but I couldn't stop smiling at how great she still looked. And the engine misfires pretty bad but it seemed to turn on and run fine for a few seconds before you could start smelling the fuel rich exhaust. Engine harness has been done and a bunch of suspension work, has all the receipts. Valve cover needs replacing and I'm thinking ignition overhaul should fix the misfire. Overall she's going to be just fine with a little TLC

And transmission was nice and tight, going into reverse immediately. Guess the transmission rebuild actually went right for once!

 

[Kyiv]

So, is she yours now?

 

[hsumeet]

So, is she yours now?

Yes! Yep gave him half for deposit and got the title and paperwork signed over. My friend and I will be towing her down Saturday since I lack a truck and trailer. The previous owner was a really nice guy, just didn't have the funds or patience to deal with her after this year. He used to own a 190E as well, before the transmission went bad.

 

[dionphaneuf]

This car looks awesome, great job. If it were me I'd throw ignition parts at it (non resistive plugs, insulators, caps, rotors) and see if anything else comes up. If it's still solid after a few months I'd be tempted to do a repaint a bit better than Maaco, you got it for so cheap and it sounds otherwise straight so could be worth it. How's the interior? Pics generally look good, altho the cluster is much more faded than the rest which I don't understand.

@gsxr - can 040 be painted over 199 without too much trouble?

 

[hsumeet]

Exactly what the plan is, throw all the parts at it Everything inside is good besides being extremely dirty but I love to do the initial detailing of a car. This one I'll be taking pictures of before I start all the work. Usually I dive in and forget to get the beginning of the story. And sorry if I don't understand, the cluster as in the tachs are faded? The wood looks a little dull but I'll be trying to get a shine out of that as well. Much better interior quality than my old Toyota LC.

 

[gsxr]

@gsxr - can 040 be painted over 199 without too much trouble?

Color changes depend if you want to go all the way and spray door jambs, under the hood, trunk, etc. If so, it won't matter which color was old vs new, as everything visible will be new paint.

However on a budget, if you are skipping the difficult stuff, keeping a vaguely similar paint color will be less obvious when you open the door/ hood / trunk. 040 vs 199 vs 009 vs 189 would all be reasonably close, I'd think. Remember that 040 (non-metallic black) will be the most difficult to keep clean and hide swirl marks on. Black paint is my least favorite color because it's soooo much work, at least in a dusty rural area. Probably not as bad in a dry city climate. Sure looks nice when it's clean though.

 

[195910]

Congratulation, I am happy to see these cars saved.
The first V8 W124 I ever saw and was taken for a ride in was an E420, Still remember how cool it was in ALMANDINE RED! with Red velour interior and no sun roof.
People had more taste back then : / , now its whatever grey/white/black car the leasing company throws at you

 

[hsumeet]

 

[hsumeet]

That is the worst she will ever look again.

 

[hsumeet]

Part throwing begins

 

[LWB250]

Part throwing begins

View attachment 123410

URO ????



Planning on replacing those again in the near future?? You could spend a small amount more and have the OE Mercedes parts and you won't be replacing them in a year or two.

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Part throwing begins

Pleas please please cancel almost that entire order.

ÜRO is known as one of the worst quality brands out there. Absolutely do not buy their coils, sensors, or plug boots; the old parts are likely better than the "new" ones. The Anchor motor mount is junk also. If you want engine mounts that will last 15+ years, the only option is OE/Genuine at ~$200/ea. After you replace the mounts once (4-8 hours DIY labor), you may reconsider the savings.

If you buy parts based on price, this will bite you in the rear, repeatedly. Read through the list linked below to see which mfr's are likely to cause you serious grief:

500E / E500 Parts Manufacturer Quality List | Maintenance Documents

Many folks wonder as to which brands (OEM and aftermarket) are good quality and are worthy of purchasing. Here is a listing (subject to change and modification over time) as to which vendors are "safe" to buy from and which ones have "caution" and "do not buy" flags. This list is based on the...

www.500eboard.co

Also, I can't tell what vendor that order was placed with, but it looks like possibly Rock Auto. There have been reports recently of Rock selling counterfeit, garbage Bosch ignition parts. Bosch was contacted and replied that Rock is not an authorized Bosch distributor, refused to take action, and basically said "don't buy Bosch from them". Recommended vendors are below. Any potential consumables are worth buying from FCP due to the warranty.

No sales tax to some states:

European Auto Parts at discount prices | RM European

www.rmeuropean.com

LIFETIME warranty on all parts, no strings attached:

Genuine and OEM Replacement Car Parts Online | BMW Volvo Audi VW Mercedes Porsche Saab | FCP Euro

The #1 Online Source for Genuine, OE, & OEM European Replacement Car Parts since 1986. Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping, and Unlimited Returns Call: 1-860-388-9001

www.fcpeuro.com

Third place for a reason:

https://www.autohausaz.com/

OE/Genuine parts from a Texas dealer with the lowest prices in the nation at the moment:

1986-1993 Mercedes-Benz Ignition Coil 000-158-64-03 | OEM Mercedes Benz Parts

1986-1993 Mercedes-Benz Ignition Coil 000-158-64-03

parts.edhicksimports.com

Final warning - don't trust online catalogs for fitment information. You need to use the EPC (now Xentry Parts / ISPPI / XPISS) dealer part catalog to find part number, then look up the part numbers at the vendors above, ignore the vendor's fitment notes, and make sure they don't "help" by superceding/changing a part number to the wrong one.

Be careful out there.

 

[gerryvz]

URO & cheap aftermarket parts - Tales of Woe | Off-Topic Discussions

Read and laugh / weep. This is just after 5 minutes of Google searching. The tales of UROparts exist all over the Internet, and not just for MB owners ..... The best line I've seen: Unreliable Reproduction Offering URODan Member...

www.500eboard.co

 

[hsumeet]

URO ????

View attachment 123411

Planning on replacing those again in the near future??

Dan

yes probably. Rockauto had most of my parts in one place, besides the Bosch coils, which I found on FCP. and I'm okay with the other components from them. URO coils will either be spares or if I'm impatient and FCP somehow doesn't beat Rockauto they'll go on and just double work for me. Either scenario I'm fine with, more time playing with the new toy. The FCP receipt also didn't look as impressive with only 2 parts, if I'm being completely honest.

I've used URO parts on my W203 before, mostly their suspension components. Never had a problem with them and most parts were driven on for over 150k miles until her demise past 230k miles. Are they that bad from your experience?

 

[gsxr]

If you want to replace the plug wires (assuming they actually need replacement), the ONLY set to buy is the Beru ZEF-635. Best price is from PartsGeek for $206 plus tax. The PartsGeek website is pretty awful but this is one item worth buying from them. I would not recommend any other brand of wire set (except possibly NGK, but nobody on the forum has tried them yet).

Details, link to purchase, and photos are here:

FYI - Beru spark plug wire set ZEF-635 | M119 Engine

Hi guys, I had been chasing a misfire on my 93' 500E for a month. I had replaced spark plugs, caps, rotors, and insulators behind the rotors thinking it might have been moisture build up behind the cap. Car ran fine cold, BUT would misfire as soon as it reached operating temperature. Then, I...

www.500eboard.co

 

[The Emperor]

@hsumeet — welcome to the Dark Side!

 

[gsxr]

I've used URO parts on my W203 before, mostly their suspension components. Never had a problem with them and most parts were driven on for over 150k miles until her demise past 230k miles. Are they that bad from your experience?

Yes. They are that bad. If you install ÜRO, Ultra-Power, Anchor, or other off-brand parts and then have problems with the car and/or troubleshooting, it's likely you won't receive much response on the forum for help. Or the response will be "remove the junk and install proper parts".

I have no idea how any ÜRO parts lasted 150k on your W203 unless they were vestigial items like an antenna mast or air freshener.

 

[hsumeet]

Pleas please please cancel almost that entire order.

ÜRO is known as one of the worst quality brands out there. Absolutely do not buy their coils, sensors, or plug boots; the old parts are likely better than the "new" ones. The Anchor motor mount is junk also. If you want engine mounts that will last 15+ years, the only option is OE/Genuine at ~$200/ea. After you replace the mounts once (4-8 hours DIY labor), you may reconsider the savings.

If you buy parts based on price, this will bite you in the rear, repeatedly. Read through the list linked below to see which mfr's are likely to cause you serious grief:

500E / E500 Parts Manufacturer Quality List | Maintenance Documents

Many folks wonder as to which brands (OEM and aftermarket) are good quality and are worthy of purchasing. Here is a listing (subject to change and modification over time) as to which vendors are "safe" to buy from and which ones have "caution" and "do not buy" flags. This list is based on the...

www.500eboard.co

Also, I can't tell what vendor that order was placed with, but it looks like possibly Rock Auto. There have been reports recently of Rock selling counterfeit, garbage Bosch ignition parts. Bosch was contacted and replied that Rock is not an authorized Bosch distributor, refused to take action, and basically said "don't buy Bosch from them". Recommended vendors are below. Any potential consumables are worth buying from FCP due to the warranty.

No sales tax to some states:

European Auto Parts at discount prices | RM European

www.rmeuropean.com

LIFETIME warranty on all parts, no strings attached:

Genuine and OEM Replacement Car Parts Online | BMW Volvo Audi VW Mercedes Porsche Saab | FCP Euro

The #1 Online Source for Genuine, OE, & OEM European Replacement Car Parts since 1986. Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping, and Unlimited Returns Call: 1-860-388-9001

www.fcpeuro.com

Third place for a reason:

https://www.autohausaz.com/

OE/Genuine parts from a Texas dealer with the lowest prices in the nation at the moment:

1986-1993 Mercedes-Benz Ignition Coil 000-158-64-03 | OEM Mercedes Benz Parts

1986-1993 Mercedes-Benz Ignition Coil 000-158-64-03

parts.edhicksimports.com

Final warning - don't trust online catalogs for fitment information. You need to use the EPC (now Xentry Parts / ISPPI / XPISS) dealer part catalog to find part number, then look up the part numbers at the vendors above, ignore the vendor's fitment notes, and make sure they don't "help" by superceding/changing a part number to the wrong one.

Be careful out there.

Alright after I'm done soiling myself I'm going to hunt a little more. Thank you for all the sources!

 

[gerryvz]

It has been stated before, but installing URO and other inexpensive overseas-made parts on one's vehicle is essentially, KNOWING and INTENTIONAL defiling of one's car. DON'T buy these parts.

Use the parts manufacturer list that @gsxr linked to as your guide as to what brands to buy, and to avoid.

 

[gsxr]

That was a close one!

 

[LWB250]

I've used URO parts on my W203 before, mostly their suspension components. Never had a problem with them and most parts were driven on for over 150k miles until her demise past 230k miles. Are they that bad from your experience?

Just google "uro parts" in a major foreign car forum like Benz world or even here for plenty of tales of woe. They use substandard rubber that WILL fail prematurely and require you to replace the part.

NEVER, EVER buy a rubber or suspension part from URO. Period. Been in a Harbor Freight store? You know that weird smell the rubber stuff has? That's known as "Chinesium". Rubber is one of the easiest compounds to "cheat" on, and the quality won't be obvious until the part fails.

Yes, the correct parts cost more, but in some cases, like valve cover seals, we're talking about a few bucks difference between OEM or OE. Don't cheap out this stuff, you WILL regret it.

Lastly, think about this:

An OE part, like a valve cover seal (not gasket!) for your car, part number 119-010-14-30 (right/passenger side):

• Mercedes dealer price (Internet discounting dealer): $25.90
• FCP Euro (OE): $33.79
• Victor Reinz (various retailers): $19.49
• AJUSA: $13.62
• URO: Couldn't find it.

This is a classic example of where the actual OE part is cheaper that OEM or third party. Had there been a URO version, I'm betting it would have been in the $15.00 range. Now think about this. How do you think they could sell an equal OE quality part and make a profit on it for almost half of what the OE part costs?

Just sayin'...

Dan

 

[LWB250]

Why are you ordering wires and coils? These are components that rarely fail. If you've got ignition issues with rough idle, start out by ordering a set of Beru caps and rotors and Bosch distributor insulators. If the issues persist, then start looking at other parts of the system.

Dan

 

[hsumeet]

Why are you ordering wires and coils? These are components that rarely fail. If you've got ignition issues with rough idle, start out by ordering a set of Beru caps and rotors and Bosch distributor insulators. If the issues persist, then start looking at other parts of the system.

Dan

Still has original everything, except the wires all look new and soft. I wanted to get new coils since I'm already refreshing everything else. After extensive order purging, I ordered Bosch everything available, including the Mercedes distributor dust shield, from FCP with help from the lists above. Even found the air intake tubes on there because the originals have completely disintegrated inside. I'm trying to make better life decisions I promise.

 

[hsumeet]

And for Texas weather, 0W40 or 5W40? Or doesn't make that much of a difference?

Thank you guys for all the help!

 

[Kyiv]

These cars were designed and engineered in the 1st world, to the 1st world standards, before the definition got diluted. One of the underpinning core values of this forum is that they should be maintained to the same standards, which means using M-B branded or OEM parts. Having a nonchalant attitude towards using 3rd world parts on these cars is, unless you are in a Central African Republic or Niger, offensive to the established aesthetical view of world on this forum, with the corresponding outflowing consequences....

 

[Kyiv]

And for Texas weather, 0W40 or 5W40? Or doesn't make that much of a difference?

Thank you guys for all the help!

Minimum 10w-40, ideally 15w-50. Although, de-jure, a 0W40 or 5W40 can be used.

 

[hsumeet]

Minimum 10w-40, ideally 15w-50. Although, de-jure, a 0W40 or 5W40 can be used.

Man, I can't even get oil weight right with this car... I've never noticed 15w-50 but apparently in stock at the local wally world. Does it at least take 8 quarts or do I need to go get a new prescription for glasses?

 

[Kyiv]

I ordered Bosch everything available, including the Mercedes distributor dust shield, from FCP with help from the lists above. Even found the air intake tubes on there because the originals have completely disintegrated inside. I'm trying to make better life decisions I promise.

I can PM you my log in and password to MB's electronic parts catalog, where you can source correct parts per your VIN needed for the PROPER&COMPLETE job. Just plug those part numbers into "getmercededparts.com", which has one of the lowest online prices from M-B branded parts. In most cases, buying M-B branded parts is a very reasonable proposition, considering what you're getting

 

[Kyiv]

Does it at least take 8 quarts or do I need to go get a new prescription for glasses?

Official capacity is 8.5 quarts, however an oil change is usually about +/- 8 quarts. You want oil level to be SMACK IN THE MIDDLE of the dipstick, per MB TSB that @gsxr has somewhere

 

[northNH]

You want oil level to be SMACK IN THE MIDDLE of the dipstick, per MB TSB t

In my experience this does not warrant ALL CAPS...

My DD M104 300CE (granted, 6cyl) has ~220K miles, no significant engine work, burns no significant oil, runs beautifully, and has had it’s oil (Kendall) level religiously kept only BETWEEN Low and High.

How much better off could my motor and I be if I wore my reading glasses when checking my oil and followed this admonition?

 

[Kyiv]

BETWEEN

Underlined "between" instead of "smack in the middle" CAPPED is what I should have used

 

[LWB250]

I'm in Florida and run Mobil 1 15W-50 in everything.

Please don't take our concerns as criticism, they're not meant to be. Those not in the know about these things are usually amazed when they find out that OE (dealer) prices can often be as good or better than aftermarket. That's certainly not the case in every situation, but for things like soft parts and consumables the difference is minimal, so why not spend that extra buck or two and get a known quantity for your parts?

Some things, like motor mounts, can be found a great deal cheaper in the aftermarket, but it's been shown here and in other venues that the aftermarket parts like these don't perform nearly as well as the OE ones do, meaning you have to do the work over again. Realize that a lot of the parts on your car are probably original - think about it - buy OE and forget about it for years, or buy aftermarket, save a buck, and do it over again in short time.

I had a 1992 400E with 300k on the clock that had original wires and coils. This is not unusual. Now that you've got an older Mercedes when they were still building them to last, your mindset has to evolve a bit. My 92 400E wasn't an outlier - I had a couple of W140s of the same vintage and mileage that had the original wires and coils. Very common. Don't spend money on parts that don't need replacing unless you *know* they're bad or marginal.

I'll bet if you measure your wires they're still well within spec.

New "zoom tubes" are always nice.

If you want some good DIYs on 400E/E420s check out my owner's thread if you've got some time.

Dan

 

[gerryvz]

And for Texas weather, 0W40 or 5W40? Or doesn't make that much of a difference?

Thank you guys for all the help!

You should REALLY research all of these topics, as there are answers here on the forum likely to everything you have questions about.

Please read this thread on oil, but there are MANY others as well. These engines WERE NOT designed for 0W oils. As said, use 10W or 15W, or even 20W-50, which was what the dealerships used when the cars were new.

When I lived in Houston, and even now in Maryland, I use 15W-40 oil. These engines were designed for and LOVE heavier oils.

Engine oil recommendations | M119 Engine

Folks, I have been using Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic oil 10W-30 since I bought my car. It is time for an oil and pan gasket change - 1993 w/99545 miles - and would like to know if there is a better or improved oil to use since we will be moving to Miami in October and the weather will be much...

www.500eboard.co

 

[JC220]

Yes. They are that bad. If you install ÜRO, Ultra-Power, Anchor, or other off-brand parts and then have problems with the car and/or troubleshooting, it's likely you won't receive much response on the forum for help. Or the response will be "remove the junk and install proper parts".

I have no idea how any ÜRO parts lasted 150k on your W203 unless they were vestigial items like an antenna mast or air freshener.

It is also known that if you install any URO parts on your car it will immediately steer itself into the path of nuns walking rescue kittens..... don't do it. It's that bad.

 

[hsumeet]

Bottom right spark plug is driver side front cylinder, only one that is completely covered in soot. Little oily from valve cover leak.

 

[gsxr]

Those are resistor plugs also... make sure to change to non-resistor plugs.

Looks like all but one are fouled more than normal.

 

[Kyiv]

$3.50 per spark plug at getmercedesparts.com
Part # (from XENTRY) A0031596703

 

[hsumeet]

Today was going to be a good day. All the pieces of the puzzle came in and I would be ready to get r done. Even got the APS that was limping my CLK55.


But I knew it was too good to last. Idiot decided last second to pull out in front of us while I was going about 40. I don't even remember braking but a small skid mark showed that I tried to stomp on them. Sacrificed herself to save my dad and I, my poor gas sipping baby....

 

[LWB250]

That truly sucks, but at least you're safe and uninjured. The car did it's job.

 

[gsxr]

That truly sucks, but at least you're safe and uninjured. The car did it's job.

Ditto what Dan said. Glad to hear you were not hurt. And also that it wasn't the E420!

 

[hsumeet]

Well after a few days of sadness, I've got money to rebuild the Camry. An unplanned project but I'm too sentimental when it comes to cars. She saved our lives, I'll save hers.

But onto the 400E. Got her all nice and washed up after replacing pretty much everything besides wires. Looked like someone tried to do the ignition coils but gave up after not being able to take the covers off. While I was in there I did all the fluids, diff, fuel filter (didn't look like it was ever changed), etc. No more misfire and she sounds amazing

Got her up to 120 (in Mexico of course) but I'm thinking new tires are needed because it started shaking pretty bad the faster I went. Steering damper also incoming. Will 215/55r16 be okay? Or should I stick to the 205/65r16 size? I'm leaning towards the 205 from what I've read about fitment with these wheels on this chassis.

Only other problem starting now is that it will cut out sometimes when driving (like limp mode?) and I can hear the fuel pump buzzing pretty loud after driving for a few minutes. When I replaced the fuel filter so much dirt came out. All this plus a little research on the interwebs makes me think I couldn't go wrong in replacing the pump since it also looks to be the original. What do y'all think?