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OWNER lowman (Norge)
- Thread starter lowman
- Start date
A little update that is somewhat insignificant to viewers..but to me..it was an awesome update.
I got in touch with the seller of the new oiler tubes i got..and said to the guy that the received parts were not the same as in the pictures in the listing for these oiler tubes.As it really was not at all...The oiler tubes in the picture in the ebay listing was of all excactly the same tubes..but i received 5 of one type and the rest of another type.And i explained to him that i did not feel that was cool...
And he came back and told me to name a price that i would be happy with..and i said either i would like 5 new ones posted similar to the "rest of the batch i got"free of cost......or i would accept 50 percent of the cost back
7 hours later...i had received a 50 percent refund of the total amount.
WHAT a great seller.Just wanted to share this with you all
I got in touch with the seller of the new oiler tubes i got..and said to the guy that the received parts were not the same as in the pictures in the listing for these oiler tubes.As it really was not at all...The oiler tubes in the picture in the ebay listing was of all excactly the same tubes..but i received 5 of one type and the rest of another type.And i explained to him that i did not feel that was cool...
And he came back and told me to name a price that i would be happy with..and i said either i would like 5 new ones posted similar to the "rest of the batch i got"free of cost......or i would accept 50 percent of the cost back
7 hours later...i had received a 50 percent refund of the total amount.
WHAT a great seller.Just wanted to share this with you all
It appears that you received a few early / prototype “@Stevester 500E” tubes. These are really really rare and since they are an NLA part, can be sold for €5.000—
It was said here on the forum that these tubes are a future collector item.
More information is here:
It was said here on the forum that these tubes are a future collector item.
More information is here:
FOR SALE - FS: Original Mold M119 aluminum oiler tubes - future collector item | Parts for Sale
For sale is a set of M119 aluminum oilers tubes, from what I believe were made by the first molds. If you look at the shape of the tube, it is "blockier" than the later aluminum oiler tubes. The part number is the same as the later ones: Part No: 119 187 00 87 The second picture compares the...
www.500eboard.co
They will definetly make the ladies turn their heads..for sure
I have checked the epc recently..and this particular parts number is not even found no more...if looking up the oiler tubes for my ex 500e...it comes up with the plastic ones.....kinda strange they do not put "both " partsnumbers there..and just let the plastic ones superceed the alu ones..
So . . . What am i up to ? 
Suddenly i wasnt to keen on the smoked taillights after all.....
Also..the taillights on the trunk itself does not fit..as the trunk itself is also different between the pre face lift and facelift .i had to heat up the rear of the reflector to massage the plastic..melt it basically to make it fit
Suddenly i wasnt to keen on the smoked taillights after all.....
Also..the taillights on the trunk itself does not fit..as the trunk itself is also different between the pre face lift and facelift .i had to heat up the rear of the reflector to massage the plastic..melt it basically to make it fit
i am debating buying it.It is a car dealer car..that is in at where i work..to get some stuff sorted out.And its just been imported from Japan.So no number plates on it yet.
Not to enable you or anything but
BUY IT, BUY IT, BUY IT.
I am a firm believer the w140 is about the best MB sedan to ever be produced. Quality is turned up to 11 and then some
In non-US markets those were the standard wheels very early on. 8-hole wheels were optional for all versions, including the v12.
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So...not happy days.
First "fault" on the E50 is here..
High idle when hot ( 900 rev/min)
It all started with me replacing the airmass sensor with a brand new old stock airmass sensor.I also cleaned up the throttle body while i was in there
Then went out for a drive,all good........Parked up..and let the engine just idle...suddenly ESP and ABS light lit up..and the rev rised to 1300
Turned off ignition..all normal.
Have faultcodes on "Steering angle sensor not initialised (in the Abs system)
And "Idle speed adjustment range" Component "against stop"?(directly translated......faultcode 43...on the Bosch KTS tester.
What ive dont up til now is basically trying to wrap my head around the fault...looking for clues in the diagnostic tool.I also for the most part ruled out vacum leaks(especially after doing alot of investigative work today)
Additional info gathered today..is that when i started it up today...from cold..it was fine all the way up til it got to driving temp...then the idle would not stay "down"..so back up to 900"ish revs.
I did put a spare throttle body in the car...but the fault seems to be the same.And actual values also seems to be the same when it comes to the potentiometer inside.
The last findings done today...after i put both the original airmass sensor and throttle body back in the car...is that it seems to be somewhat of a throttle body issue...with the throttle plate not "returning to its idle position"...eventhough it "does"...its not like open...but it was just a thought and gut feeling.
Before messing up the thread...have anyone experienced anything similar...especially since this fault only appeared AFTER the ABS/ESP light came on..and the car seemingly went into limp mode....cause after it happend..and then starting up...the idle would not settle at 750.
Any info appreaciated... Someone maybe have some info if the newer style throttle bodies can be repaired...i have opened it up..and this one does not have any poor wiring inside..(these newer one does not suffer these issues anyways...but i needed to inspect it.
So what i question is that ,,,,is it an input problem making the throttle body not returning to "idle"(say this steering angle sensor fault /not initialized.......or could it may be the throttle body is bad...(potentiometer ish----i would not think it is the throttle body..cause the fault seem to be excactly the same as with both throttle bodies.
First "fault" on the E50 is here..
High idle when hot ( 900 rev/min)
It all started with me replacing the airmass sensor with a brand new old stock airmass sensor.I also cleaned up the throttle body while i was in there
Then went out for a drive,all good........Parked up..and let the engine just idle...suddenly ESP and ABS light lit up..and the rev rised to 1300
Turned off ignition..all normal.
Have faultcodes on "Steering angle sensor not initialised (in the Abs system)
And "Idle speed adjustment range" Component "against stop"?(directly translated......faultcode 43...on the Bosch KTS tester.
What ive dont up til now is basically trying to wrap my head around the fault...looking for clues in the diagnostic tool.I also for the most part ruled out vacum leaks(especially after doing alot of investigative work today)
Additional info gathered today..is that when i started it up today...from cold..it was fine all the way up til it got to driving temp...then the idle would not stay "down"..so back up to 900"ish revs.
I did put a spare throttle body in the car...but the fault seems to be the same.And actual values also seems to be the same when it comes to the potentiometer inside.
The last findings done today...after i put both the original airmass sensor and throttle body back in the car...is that it seems to be somewhat of a throttle body issue...with the throttle plate not "returning to its idle position"...eventhough it "does"...its not like open...but it was just a thought and gut feeling.
Before messing up the thread...have anyone experienced anything similar...especially since this fault only appeared AFTER the ABS/ESP light came on..and the car seemingly went into limp mode....cause after it happend..and then starting up...the idle would not settle at 750.
Any info appreaciated...
Someone maybe have some info if the newer style throttle bodies can be repaired...i have opened it up..and this one does not have any poor wiring inside..(these newer one does not suffer these issues anyways...but i needed to inspect it.So what i question is that ,,,,is it an input problem making the throttle body not returning to "idle"(say this steering angle sensor fault /not initialized.......or could it may be the throttle body is bad...(potentiometer ish----i would not think it is the throttle body..cause the fault seem to be excactly the same as with both throttle bodies.
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As far as that glitch you described, check the transmission overload protection switch, i had that problem before.Re: Lowman"s 1992 500e Norway
Just had to post this little update
Been working on the car all weekend,as there have been stuff to sort out.
The car has been suffering from some "glitch"...it could while driving, loose all power in the engine" ..for just half of a second..just like if the power was cut..and then turned on again.And when i was about to drive off..as the revs rised...therewould be this glitch..and engine would stall..and all instrument lighting would come on..as is if the ignition key was on position 2..
I did check fault codes before and after...and afterwards..there was "No CAN reception " from LH1..
and from that..i checked the CAN wires..and they are all good..and did just change all fuses in GM module..and REseat all control units.and hopefully it would do the trick..though it had one minor glitch after that point..but fault has not resurfaced after that.
here are some pics of the fault finding
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After that i removed the aftermarked shitty alarm from 1996
And decided to clean up the wiring under the steering column...and removed the after marked mounted Automatic daytime runnings lights..and decided to check all the wiring inside the switch connector
here is some pics
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and did some interiour cleaning while i was at it .no further explanation needed i guess
And i made my own file book,printed out Service introduction papers,more technical information,wiring diagrams and stuff
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hey there
Unfortunatly the car is sold just recently.AND the problem was also solved.I diagnosed the car for several weeks..and i found the culprit.It was a soldier joint inside the inner portion of the engine wiring harness.....that had cracked...leading to ecu not receiving power from the BM module.
But thank you for suggestion
Just thought i would do a little update.
Last night..i did dive into the diagnosis...did alot of testing...And i started to focus on the ABS/ESP light coming on /fault ,,and not bothering with the "raised 900rev idle"...as i do think that the reason for the raised idle is because of adaptions beeing screwed up because of the faultcode appearing.
I tested some canbus stuff...the canbus controller in both ECU and RCL module is in good order(i did this test because of "guided symptoms in the Mercedes workshop manual i found at Startek.info.
Anywhoooo
I found a poor can wire in the right hand side door sill.It was taped up..and inside it...half the wire threads were broken..So i soldered it..and taped it up.I am going to check the canbus wires on the driver side tomorrow.Im really hoping im finding some faults there aswell.
Fault persisted after fixing the CanBus wire.
I have also noticed that the fault with the abs/esp light only appears after car has got up to driving temp..and when sitting idling for a minute or two...which also explains why the faultcode potenially plays havoc with the idle adaption settings...as you cannot do adaption reset above 60 degrees...."i think".
I also messed about with some actual values in the Abs/esp module...and i noticed one pid ..that said "Circuit 61>>0 volts...."....when car was running....so that lead me on a track..eventhough i do not know if the car has a circuit 61...neither do i know what it is...i cannot find any info about it...but on the w211"s...it has to do with Battery voltage"stuff.
One faultcode that also have appeared is the the Abs/esp module is missing can signal from the ECU.......
So...that got me thinking....i need to verify the powerfeed to the abs/esp module....And i basically messed around alot there,,back and forth...
But in the end...i reminded myself of...oh...i do remember the w210"s especially....are pretty delicate when it comes to voltage..And that lead me further to the fact that i know that the battery has been sitting in the car for A long time...
So i decided to test the battery.......i tested it first when mounted in the car.....its a 100Ah battery...830CCA /EN
Battery test came out : 560CCA available.....battery resting voltage...12.5.....Battery test result "!Battery good....Recharge"..
Okei...today...i just ordered a new battery....and after taking the old one out..i tested the old battery again...and the test result was 542 CCA available...>>12.4 >> Replace Battery-...
SO......putting in a new battery...have given me some hope....done some "random "searches on the interwebs now tonight..and it does seem that the batteries when turning this low in voltage..can indeed play havoc with the electrics in the w210"s.......found several threads with "similar" "faults....though it can be a coinsidence.....but at least...it was a good feeling to put a fresh new battery in the car....basically a good thing to do anyways
OF course this problem is not solved..and i do not think im that lucky with it beeing "just" a poor condition battery.I have also ordered a new K40 Relay..as this is a critical component...I have opened the K40 relay in the car..and i do think i saw some poor soldering points...And for now i do not want to solder it....There is more to the k40 relay that can go bad..than just soldering points..there are resistors in there aswell..so..for now..i am leaving it untouched
I will definetly come back with updates.And a video also at abit later point..i have done alot of video "clips" during this "diagnosis" session.
Im sorry for the messy and lenghty reply...
Last night..i did dive into the diagnosis...did alot of testing...And i started to focus on the ABS/ESP light coming on /fault ,,and not bothering with the "raised 900rev idle"...as i do think that the reason for the raised idle is because of adaptions beeing screwed up because of the faultcode appearing.
I tested some canbus stuff...the canbus controller in both ECU and RCL module is in good order(i did this test because of "guided symptoms in the Mercedes workshop manual i found at Startek.info.
Anywhoooo
I found a poor can wire in the right hand side door sill.It was taped up..and inside it...half the wire threads were broken..So i soldered it..and taped it up.I am going to check the canbus wires on the driver side tomorrow.Im really hoping im finding some faults there aswell.
Fault persisted after fixing the CanBus wire.
I have also noticed that the fault with the abs/esp light only appears after car has got up to driving temp..and when sitting idling for a minute or two...which also explains why the faultcode potenially plays havoc with the idle adaption settings...as you cannot do adaption reset above 60 degrees...."i think".
I also messed about with some actual values in the Abs/esp module...and i noticed one pid ..that said "Circuit 61>>0 volts...."....when car was running....so that lead me on a track..eventhough i do not know if the car has a circuit 61...neither do i know what it is...i cannot find any info about it...but on the w211"s...it has to do with Battery voltage"stuff.
One faultcode that also have appeared is the the Abs/esp module is missing can signal from the ECU.......
So...that got me thinking....i need to verify the powerfeed to the abs/esp module....And i basically messed around alot there,,back and forth...
But in the end...i reminded myself of...oh...i do remember the w210"s especially....are pretty delicate when it comes to voltage..And that lead me further to the fact that i know that the battery has been sitting in the car for A long time...
So i decided to test the battery.......i tested it first when mounted in the car.....its a 100Ah battery...830CCA /EN
Battery test came out : 560CCA available.....battery resting voltage...12.5.....Battery test result "!Battery good....Recharge"..
Okei...today...i just ordered a new battery....and after taking the old one out..i tested the old battery again...and the test result was 542 CCA available...>>12.4 >> Replace Battery-...
SO......putting in a new battery...have given me some hope....done some "random "searches on the interwebs now tonight..and it does seem that the batteries when turning this low in voltage..can indeed play havoc with the electrics in the w210"s.......found several threads with "similar" "faults....though it can be a coinsidence.....but at least...it was a good feeling to put a fresh new battery in the car....basically a good thing to do anyways
OF course this problem is not solved..and i do not think im that lucky with it beeing "just" a poor condition battery.I have also ordered a new K40 Relay..as this is a critical component...I have opened the K40 relay in the car..and i do think i saw some poor soldering points...And for now i do not want to solder it....There is more to the k40 relay that can go bad..than just soldering points..there are resistors in there aswell..so..for now..i am leaving it untouched
I will definetly come back with updates.And a video also at abit later point..i have done alot of video "clips" during this "diagnosis" session.
Im sorry for the messy and lenghty reply...
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Just thought i would do a little update.
Last night..i did dive into the diagnosis...did alot of testing...And i started to focus on the ABS/ESP light coming on /fault ,,and not bothering with the "raised 900rev idle"...as i do think that the reason for the raised idle is because of adaptions beeing screwed up because of the faultcode appearing.
I tested some canbus stuff...the canbus controller in both ECU and RCL module is in good order(i did this test because of "guided symptoms in the Mercedes workshop manual i found at Startek.info.
Anywhoooo
I found a poor can wire in the right hand side door sill.It was taped up..and inside it...half the wire threads were broken..So i soldered it..and taped it up.I am going to check the canbus wires on the driver side tomorrow.Im really hoping im finding some faults there aswell.
Fault persisted after fixing the CanBus wire.
I have also noticed that the fault with the abs/esp light only appears after car has got up to driving temp..and when sitting idling for a minute or two...which also explains why the faultcode potenially plays havoc with the idle adaption settings...as you cannot do adaption reset above 60 degrees...."i think".
I also messed about with some actual values in the Abs/esp module...and i noticed one pid ..that said "Circuit 61>>0 volts...."....when car was running....so that lead me on a track..eventhough i do not know if the car has a circuit 61...neither do i know what it is...i cannot find any info about it...but on the w211"s...it has to do with Battery voltage"stuff.
One faultcode that also have appeared is the the Abs/esp module is missing can signal from the ECU.......
So...that got me thinking....i need to verify the powerfeed to the abs/esp module....And i basically messed around alot there,,back and forth...
But in the end...i reminded myself of...oh...i do remember the w210"s especially....are pretty delicate when it comes to voltage..And that lead me further to the fact that i know that the battery has been sitting in the car for A long time...
So i decided to test the battery.......i tested it first when mounted in the car.....its a 100Ah battery...830CCA /EN
Battery test came out : 560CCA available.....battery resting voltage...12.5.....Battery test result "!Battery good....Recharge"..
Okei...today...i just ordered a new battery....and after taking the old one out..i tested the old battery again...and the test result was 542 CCA available...>>12.4 >> Replace Battery-...
SO......putting in a new battery...have given me some hope....done some "random "searches on the interwebs now tonight..and it does seem that the batteries when turning this low in voltage..can indeed play havoc with the electrics in the w210"s.......found several threads with "similar" "faults....though it can be a coinsidence.....but at least...it was a good feeling to put a fresh new battery in the car....basically a good thing to do anyways
OF course this problem is not solved..and i do not think im that lucky with it beeing "just" a poor condition battery.I have also ordered a new K40 Relay..as this is a critical component...I have opened the K40 relay in the car..and i do think i saw some poor soldering points...And for now i do not want to solder it....There is more to the k40 relay that can go bad..than just soldering points..there are resistors in there aswell..so..for now..i am leaving it untouched
I will definetly come back with updates.And a video also at abit later point..i have done alot of video "clips" during this "diagnosis" session.
Im sorry for the messy and lenghty reply...
Are you using Star Diagnostics for this Lowman? Or a generic code reader?
As you likely know using Star will lead into WIS which should provide for a good testing and elimination strategy to trace the fault down. It can tell you in order of prevalence where to start looking for CAN errors etc on a particular module.
heyy there mister
No unfortunatly i do not have a Star tester yet..and this would be the time for me to work at the dealer...as i am painfully aware of that the Star ..and Wis would help out in a massive way.
BUT.....im not rushing to conclusions yet..but it does as a matter of fact seem that the battery replacement did wonders.
Ive not done any diagnostic work today..but i have started the car...let it warm up..both driving..and letting it sit at idle..and the Esp light has not came on at all yet.Previous...it basically came on pretty much straight after it was at driving temperature..
So i have a small hope that i might get lucky
So for today..i left it there..as that was a good way of ending todays work
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Potentially its not something one look past...What? You didn't let a little wiring harness issue scare you away, did you? The Lowman would just manually rebuild all the harnesses with better stuff than new!
wiring issues ++++on a 600 would "NOT be fun check this one out then
Definetly an awesome car this.Its a Ford Galaxy 500, 1963..pretty much mint condition outside and inside..but like many of these american cars..they do look good on the outside..but underside..they are always leaky from the engines etc etc....and this one is no exeption.I adjusted the ignition on this one today..and now it runs preeeettty smoooth.And gained some horsepower aswell..as the ignition was set (incorrectly that is)to approx 25 degrees BTDC.And the spec is about 8 degrees..so you can imagine it was running poorlyAmerican muscle, classic
Thaaaat is sooo cool to hear
I am sure they are good memories also.I definetly know the feeling..so i am super glad to hear you liked seeing it.I hope you are doing well my friend
Massive diagnostic sessions this weekend .
No explanations here..just some pics of various stuff done..and the conclusion up til now..after some specific measurements..is that it is either the throttle body..or ecu. ..or one possibility would also be the airmass sensor..if it for some reason plays havoc with the electronics. Remember..this fault appeared after replacing the genuine Mercedes airmass sensor with a new old stock bosch unit..and at the same time cleaning the throttle body.
No explanations here..just some pics of various stuff done..and the conclusion up til now..after some specific measurements..is that it is either the throttle body..or ecu. ..or one possibility would also be the airmass sensor..if it for some reason plays havoc with the electronics. Remember..this fault appeared after replacing the genuine Mercedes airmass sensor with a new old stock bosch unit..and at the same time cleaning the throttle body.
Some underside detailing work i decided to do..when replacing the o2 sensors as a preventative measure..but also...replacing o2 sensors at around 100k km's is only a good thing 
Only done the front section at this point..but im doing the rear section of the system tonight
All bolts and seals renewed..to the lovely sum of 180 dollars
Used steelwire brush to get the system clean..then i used a scotch pad with penetrating oil as a polishing compound to finish it off.
Looks at least abit better.
Only done the front section at this point..but im doing the rear section of the system tonight
All bolts and seals renewed..to the lovely sum of 180 dollars
Used steelwire brush to get the system clean..then i used a scotch pad with penetrating oil as a polishing compound to finish it off.
Looks at least abit better.
So..a little interesting post
Regarding my engine issue...everything is pointing in the direction of a faulty throttle body.
I do have a spare used throttle body..and the fault does not go away with this spare throttle body. I have done alot of measurements to the throttle body in the car..and one of the measurements is not within spec...
So without further a do...ive opened up the spare throttle body..just to see if i could see any faults to the potentiometer..
Look what i found..and i bet you 100 dollars that the throttle body in the car does not look any differentwhat do you think
Regarding my engine issue...everything is pointing in the direction of a faulty throttle body.
I do have a spare used throttle body..and the fault does not go away with this spare throttle body. I have done alot of measurements to the throttle body in the car..and one of the measurements is not within spec...
So without further a do...ive opened up the spare throttle body..just to see if i could see any faults to the potentiometer..
Look what i found..and i bet you 100 dollars that the throttle body in the car does not look any different
what do you think 
hahaha yeah i noticed that myself..Throttling DeviceHoly moly! LOOOVE the new parts and boxes. 'Throttling Device' hehe. I'll have to start calling it that.
Just curious, do you not have an ETA re-builder in No.? Or is this just your little 'spoiled child' that gets whatever it wants?
Well..there are no companies in Norway dealing directly with throttle bodies.I do reckon that there are some companies i could send it to...but the company we use were i work...was not able to do repairs on this particular ETA.they did alot of the other MB Eta"s...but not this one..and i can see why.If you study the pics of the ETA i took appart..it has to be "ruined" to make even the smallest inspection happen..so...i do reckon that is the reason why .
I got in touch with a company in USA though..called BeckTech...and they could repair it...but the cost of the repair in was 825 dollars, shipping and tax excluded.
I bought my brand new ETA directly from Mercedes Benz in Germany..through a Norwegian parts supplier..that specializes in German car brands(Mercedes,Audi, Bmw )...And i paid 900 dollars for the brand new ETA, all gaskets, boots and the general parts you see in the pics.Tax and shipping included.Which is a bargain!! The retail price for the ETA only, at the main dealer here in norway... is 1800 dollars
So the answer to your question is in this reply somewhere
And yes..i like to spoil my cars..
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Well
I just had to post this
You all know im a huge ford cosworth fan also..and ive been a consistent reader of two ford mags during my time with these cars....performance ford..and Fast Ford...which is the two biggest Ford magazine's in the Uk
So long story short.....my lovely 1987 model..Ford Sierra Rs Cosworth has got a feature in the october issue
its also on the front cover...but the coolest of all is that it is the centrefold car ..poster car if you may
So as a car guy..and a cosworth guy..i am super proud to have my car featured..and my story told..and it is also a great way to honor my dad..who would have loved seeing this car on print in one of the biggest Ford magazine's out there.
I just had to post this
You all know im a huge ford cosworth fan also..and ive been a consistent reader of two ford mags during my time with these cars....performance ford..and Fast Ford...which is the two biggest Ford magazine's in the Uk
So long story short.....my lovely 1987 model..Ford Sierra Rs Cosworth has got a feature in the october issue
its also on the front cover...but the coolest of all is that it is the centrefold car ..poster car if you may So as a car guy..and a cosworth guy..i am super proud to have my car featured..and my story told..and it is also a great way to honor my dad..who would have loved seeing this car on print in one of the biggest Ford magazine's out there.
Well
I just had to post this
You all know im a huge ford cosworth fan also..and ive been a consistent reader of two ford mags during my time with these cars....performance ford..and Fast Ford...which is the two biggest Ford magazine's in the Uk
So long story short.....my lovely 1987 model..Ford Sierra Rs Cosworth has got a feature in the october issue
So as a car guy..and a cosworth guy..i am super proud to have my car featured..and my story told..and it is also a great way to honor my dad..who would have loved seeing this car on print in one of the biggest Ford magazine's out there.
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Awesome stuff Lowman, you deserve it well done!!
If you were able to PDF or take square on photos of the article I'd sure like to read it
Doesn't get much better than a centre fold congrats again!
Yeah i knowYou know that when that odometer turns 100000, that 20% of the value of the car will go "poof!!" ... right?
luckily it is just in km's..and not miles 
thank you sooo much mister,Well..the E50 is not approved to use the hook...so it is in many ways a huge mystery to why it is mounted on the car...and even written into the datacard.It is dated 1999...so it has to be someguy with " a saying" that has had this done to the car.I am debating to remove it..and sell it..as i will never tow anything with this car.But its quite cool to have though.Cool E50 with a Hook ,I like thisand middle muffler delete. How is the Sound.I think more Agressive but not deep or??
The middle muffler delete is very subtle...i do not have any reference to how it is originally...but as it sits now..it is super quiet....I have tried to find out what kind of delete pipe it is..it does not say AMG on it..but it does have a similar number as the muffler parts have...and also i got a tip from one guy on some facebook group..that it was indeed an Amg part...but i have not any proof of that.
The Hook i want Never remove ,Nice too have and when you towing an other car drive better its pic in the middle.
Amg has very many different things built for Exhaust ,for some Export country was cat or not cat or Rear muffler with an flap and so on.When you payed the Music was playing. i can think its possible to that this part orig AMG
Amg has very many different things built for Exhaust ,for some Export country was cat or not cat or Rear muffler with an flap and so on.When you payed the Music was playing. i can think its possible to that this part orig AMG
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