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Misfire

Almomen

E500E Enthusiast
Member
After parking for 2years , along with the electric issues, the car kind of misfire intermittently but continuously. I removed the intake hoses because part of the material of those hoses disintegrated and I was afraid that fragments goes into the air filters. It give “ buffs” like sound from the exhausts from the time run the engine until switching it off. One of the workshops who diagnosed it by computer said There is nothing with car and the reason was because I have removed the hoses , it was unbelievable to me .
I had the spark plugs changed recently.

One other issue, I asked them to check the vacuum tubes of the transmission, the car gives high rpm and delay 2-3 shifting when the car is cold, the car then shifts very smooth when wormed up. But now when the car wormed up for long time , it goes for the delay shifting from 2-3
 
After parking for 2years , along with the electric issues, the car kind of misfire intermittently but continuously. I removed the intake hoses because part of the material of those hoses disintegrated and I was afraid that fragments goes into the air filters. It give “ buffs” like sound from the exhausts from the time run the engine until switching it off.
How old are the caps / rotors / insulators? Sounds like a misfire, which may be related to moisture in one or both distributors. Could also be related to oil leaking from the cam seal behind the distributor rotor bracket. The symptoms are EXACTLY what you describe. Search the forum, this has been discussed ad nauseum.


One of the workshops who diagnosed it by computer said There is nothing with car and the reason was because I have removed the hoses , it was unbelievable to me.
They are completely wrong. You are correct. The air filter tubes have nothing to do with the misfire. The misfiring does not store fault codes, the workshop is used to newer cars which store faults for misfiring... the LH/EZL system does not do this.



I had the spark plugs changed recently.
What type of plugs were installed (brand / part number)? They should be non-resistor type with standard electrode, but this would not cause the misfire.



One other issue, I asked them to check the vacuum tubes of the transmission, the car gives high rpm and delay 2-3 shifting when the car is cold
This may be normal, there is an upshift delay when the engine is cold, to heat the catalysts more quickly. This is to reduce emissions. You can bypass this if desired, but the transmission will always upshift slightly late (higher RPM) when cold - this can't be adjusted.



the car then shifts very smooth when wormed up. But now when the car wormed up for long time , it goes for the delay shifting from 2-3
Not sure what you mean here?

What year / model car do you have, btw?
 
It is 1994 E500
The delay upshif is too high rpm to think it is normal when the car is cold. But just few days ago I noticed when drive long for let say 15 minutes and stop in traffic, the car start to delay shifting and run at high rpm before it shift from second to third ( I understand this car takeoff first in second gear).
 
It is 1994 E500
The delay upshif is too high rpm to think it is normal when the car is cold. But just few days ago I noticed when drive long for let say 15 minutes and stop in traffic, the car start to delay shifting and run at high rpm before it shift from second to third ( I understand this car takeoff first in second gear).
The cold upshift (2nd to 3rd gear) may occur at 3000-3500rpm, but should only have this higher shift point for a minute or two after a cold start.

The shift should NOT be higher RPM at normal operating temperature (>80C). If you have high RPM shifts at light throttle position at operating temp, something is wrong. This won't be easy to diagnose... could be a sticking control pressure (Bowden) cable, sticky valve body, etc. I assume the car has recent ATF and filter change. Vacuum only affects shift firmness, not RPM, so this is not a vacuum issue.

The transmission shift point problem is completely unreleated to the misfiring. You may want to start a separate thread with more details about the high-RPM upshifts.

Replacing the secondary ignition components, and cam seal, should cure the misfire. Adding vent slots to the new caps will help too.

:shocking:
 

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