Yeah, read that one. It's on my radar. I do have the LH module removed, and I'm still seeing 3 amps. The diagnostic connector LOOKS fine. If there's a way to actually test it, I'm all for that.
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The $400 400E
- Thread starter Beater400E
- Start date
I took the X11/4 apart. But it was actually very clean. No issues there.
Ok, trying to figure out how to disassemble the CAN box. If I can get the base module connector out of the box, I can back probe and hopefully see what's going on.
Anyone know what needs to happen to get the connectors free?
Anyone know what needs to happen to get the connectors free?
I tore the box apart. I ended up depinning the connector. At this point only the main power in and grounds remain. It's still pulling 3 amps.
So. The base module pulls 3 amps by itself just by having power hooked to it.
I'm assuming that it powers up for a short time when power is connected, and then it powers down after a period of time. I'm also guessing that my meter is not passing enough voltage for it to complete its initial power up.
I've probably been chasing ghosts a bit due to bad testing procedures. We'll see. I'm trying to run a more careful test now to see if the issue goes away. If that works, I'll work my way backward to hopefully find the issue.
So. The base module pulls 3 amps by itself just by having power hooked to it.
I'm assuming that it powers up for a short time when power is connected, and then it powers down after a period of time. I'm also guessing that my meter is not passing enough voltage for it to complete its initial power up.
I've probably been chasing ghosts a bit due to bad testing procedures. We'll see. I'm trying to run a more careful test now to see if the issue goes away. If that works, I'll work my way backward to hopefully find the issue.
Interesting. I made sure the base module had power continuously for 20+ minutes, then pulled power from the battery and ran it directly through my ammeter, without interrupting power to the module. No change. No matter what I do, the base module is consuming 3 amps all by itself. I've tried 3 base modules and they all do the same thing. I'm so lost.
IIRC, the BM/GM has some pass-through circuits which may cause what you are seeing. I discovered this when dealing with the X11/4 problem, see post #4 in that thread. It may not be the BM itself consuming 3A, it's that when you remove it, the BM is no longer passing that current through to whatever is consuming it. However, isolating which item is consuming the 3A may be difficult!
Right, that's why I de-pinned the entire connector. There's nothing connected to the BM other than the main power and grounds, and it's still consuming 3 amps somehow.
So I took a base module and wired it up to a battery with my meter in line and sitting on the bench I was reading nearly 3 amps. Same is true of all of my base modules. So either all my base modules have failed in the same way, or there is some other input required to cause the base module to sleep, or there's something wrong with my meter.
I went and checked for an amperage draw on my 400E. I got exactly the same result. Then I noticed that with the meter in line, the trunk light does not turn on. With the battery connected, the trunk light does work.
Pretty sure I've been dealing with a malfunctioning multimeter this whole time.
I hooked my cheap $20 Harbor Freight meter up and it reads less than one amp with the trunk light on, and less than a 10th of an amp with the light off. When I put it on the SL, I get no amp draw at all.
So yeah. Pretty sure my meter has been lying to me. Guess I'll start reassembling the car and see what happens.
I went and checked for an amperage draw on my 400E. I got exactly the same result. Then I noticed that with the meter in line, the trunk light does not turn on. With the battery connected, the trunk light does work.
Pretty sure I've been dealing with a malfunctioning multimeter this whole time.
I hooked my cheap $20 Harbor Freight meter up and it reads less than one amp with the trunk light on, and less than a 10th of an amp with the light off. When I put it on the SL, I get no amp draw at all.
So yeah. Pretty sure my meter has been lying to me. Guess I'll start reassembling the car and see what happens.
Got the SL all back together. According to my cheap Harbor Freight meter I have a 5 milliamp draw parked. That's more like it. The car runs great. I should be irritated that I spent so much time chasing a ghost, but at the moment I'm just happy the draw is gone. I'll let it sit a couple days and see if the battery goes dead. At the end if the day I think the only actual problem was the trunk switch keeping the trunk light on all the time.
The soft top hydraulics leak horrifically. I've ordered a set of seals. I'll dig into that in the coming week. Aside from that, the car doesn't need much to be a beater driver.
The soft top hydraulics leak horrifically. I've ordered a set of seals. I'll dig into that in the coming week. Aside from that, the car doesn't need much to be a beater driver.
You haven't seen the quantity of mouse poo in every crevice of the car. The problem with the limo at this point is I'm just burned out and bored with it. It's so much work. I mean, I knew it would be, but I didn't know that the R129 would fall in my lap. The limo is definitely more ridiculous, but at the end of the day, I might actually want to drive a rally R129. Also, if I'm ever going to finish putting together the 5 liter engine for my 400E I need to wrap things up with these side projects and get to it.
Looks like the Evos are 124 401 17 02.
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I assumed the 8 hole wheels that were originally on my 400E would have fit the 500SL. Apparently not. Guess the Evos are staying on there for today.
They are both 8-hole designs, but otherwise very different:
400E wheels are 15" diameter and 6.5" width. (Forget the offset but I think 40-something?)
The R129 requires 16" wheels to clear the larger front calipers, and those are 8.0" wide, ET34 - same as 500E. However, you could raid some usable 16"+ wheels from the Jungle off a W210 or similar chassis...
I'll probably just install the w140 wheels off the limo. I have 1-1/4 inch spacers, and 265/70r16 tires with the factory w140 8 hole wheels on the limo right now. I've ordered some 12mm taper seat bolts I can use to install the whole mess on the SL.
I know, I know. Offroad tires on an SL are ridiculous. If you don't like that, you'll hate it when I Sawzall the fenders to clear the tires. It would be criminal to do such a thing to a car worth saving, but this is a parts car waiting to happen. I just want to give it one last party before it gets ripped apart.
I got the car registered and insured today, and then took it out for another drive. The 20 year old tires on those Evo wheels are sketchy, so I didn't dare to push it hard. It's a shame the car is so rough cosmetically because it runs phenomenally well.
The wheel spacers bolt on using taper seat bolts. The spacers came with M12 studs and ball seat nuts, but I pressed the studs out, reamed the holes larger and pressed in Ford F350 M14 studs and used Porsche ball seat lug nuts. I'll get some pictures of the setup when I get around to installing.
I know the Evo wheels would fit the 400E, but I actually really like the CLK wheels. I'm just going to sell the Evos.
That raises the question. What are the Evo wheels worth? I've had lots of interest. They're in good overall condition, but they are nearly 30 years old, and do have a few minor scratches. I'm not going to refinish them. I plan to dismount the tires, wash them, and sell them as-is. What's a fair price?
I've seen multiple sets going in the $1500-2000 range, but I don't know how the condition of those compares with these.
Hard to value the Evo wheels without good photos front & back of all 4, and also verifying they are straight... at least spinning them for a visual check, but ideally dismounting the tires and using a dial gauge as shown here.
Without the above effort I'd guess they would be at the low end of your estimated range (or less), if confirmed straight and with good photos, maybe on the higher end? If the clearcoat is intact that will definitely help, it's $$$ to refinish these to look like factory again. If any are bent enough to need straightening, that's another variable. Annie's charges something like $130 per wheel to straighten. I assume you know shipping costs are silly these days.
Without the above effort I'd guess they would be at the low end of your estimated range (or less), if confirmed straight and with good photos, maybe on the higher end? If the clearcoat is intact that will definitely help, it's $$$ to refinish these to look like factory again. If any are bent enough to need straightening, that's another variable. Annie's charges something like $130 per wheel to straighten. I assume you know shipping costs are silly these days.
I'm working on the soft top at this point. I resealed the front latch cylinders. I'm no longer dribbling hydraulic oil all over, but the top still doesn't work. I scanned codes and got tons. Cleared all the codes I can. When I plug in to pin 22 and read roll bar codes, my blink code reader is just lit up continuously. As soon as I plug the yellow pin into the #22 socket, the light illuminates immediately, and will not extinguish.
The soft top module also has code 23 stuck. That indicates a problem with the roll bar module.
Should I assume that the diagnostic pin being permanently illuminated is also a symptom of a bad roll bar module?
The soft top module also has code 23 stuck. That indicates a problem with the roll bar module.
Should I assume that the diagnostic pin being permanently illuminated is also a symptom of a bad roll bar module?
The soft top codes are legit for sure. The odd thing is the constantly illuminated pin for the roll bar module.
Finally got the Evos dismounted and cleaned. I didn't go crazy with the cleaning. I need to figure out what they're worth and how best to sell them.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
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I was ecstatic to learn my local pick and pull just got a 92 400E. I ran down there this morning and grabbed everything I could think of. Some of it may get put up for sale here on the forum to continue feeding my beater habit.
Among the goods are all the modules from the CAN box, along with the EZL, MAF, radiator, instrument cluster, sun visors, and a minty center arm rest. I'm super stoked for the arm rest. Been looking for one with the lid for quite a while. I also got a bunch of switches and relays, caps and rotors, a Becker tuner, headlight switch, and a few other things. Sadly, no aluminum oiler tubes on this one, but at least that means I didn't have to pull them.
You have to love the pick and pull. Load a whole wheel barrow up with parts and the guy at the counter just charges for a few key items and the rest go with you essentially for free.
This car has ASR, which mine does not. That makes some of these parts less useful for me, but possibly quite useful for E500E owners, so if anyone sees something they need let me know.
Also, if there are key parts I should grab off that car that I didn't already, shout them out. This is a rare opportunity for me, and I want to take full advantage.
Among the goods are all the modules from the CAN box, along with the EZL, MAF, radiator, instrument cluster, sun visors, and a minty center arm rest. I'm super stoked for the arm rest. Been looking for one with the lid for quite a while. I also got a bunch of switches and relays, caps and rotors, a Becker tuner, headlight switch, and a few other things. Sadly, no aluminum oiler tubes on this one, but at least that means I didn't have to pull them.
You have to love the pick and pull. Load a whole wheel barrow up with parts and the guy at the counter just charges for a few key items and the rest go with you essentially for free.
This car has ASR, which mine does not. That makes some of these parts less useful for me, but possibly quite useful for E500E owners, so if anyone sees something they need let me know.
Also, if there are key parts I should grab off that car that I didn't already, shout them out. This is a rare opportunity for me, and I want to take full advantage.
Good list, thanks Sheward.
Fan shrouds were missing. The fan clutch is present, but not sure on condition. It's supposed to have a plastic cover on the front, isn't it? This one does not have a cover. The ETA is there, but the wiring has been cut, sadly. I'm sure it could be repaired, but it's not usable as-is. The bumpers are trashed, including the license plate filler, and the mirror trims are missing.
After chatting with Dave, I'll likely go yank the axle shafts as an upgrade for my car, and I'll probably pull a few diff parts for him while I'm at it.
Yes, it should have a plastic cover. If missing, it may be aftermarket, in which case you don't want it.
If the ETA is late datecode, the wiring pigtail used to be available separately - I'd need to check NLA status. If it's original from 1992, it's strictly a core (and, is for ASR cars only, i.e. 1992-93 500E).
It is soooo hard to find good bumpers. They are almost always junk by the time they arrive at the... uh... junkyard.
Awesome! Thank you sir!
I have a guess on this car's cause of death.
I did make it back down and got the axle shafts and the diff parts Dave was after. It ended up being a nightmare. One of the cv axle bolts had its socket all messed up and my triple square bit couldn't get a bite on it. I tried with vise grips, to no avail.
It then occurred to me that since Dave wanted the stub axles out of the diff I could just pull those and take the cv and stub together and deal with it back at my shop. The pinion yoke was also strange since, as you can see in the prior post, the pinion was snapped in two. I had to pry the whole mess out with the pinion bearing and seal to get it free.
In the end, I was victorious.
It then occurred to me that since Dave wanted the stub axles out of the diff I could just pull those and take the cv and stub together and deal with it back at my shop. The pinion yoke was also strange since, as you can see in the prior post, the pinion was snapped in two. I had to pry the whole mess out with the pinion bearing and seal to get it free.
In the end, I was victorious.
Yeah, I was shocked. No other obvious drive train damage and the car was not wrecked. Also, the diff definitely had oil, and the rest of the gears looked fine. I can't fathom what would have caused it.
I was strolling through my self serve junk yard today and stumbled across a 2000 SL500. My 93 500SL is pretty well sorted at this point, but it did need a few things I was able to score. I got a couple switches, and a washer fluid reservoir, as well as a few little trim pieces. Score.
I yanked the wheels off and noticed some big Brembo brakes up front. I don't know if this is the Silver Arrow setup or not. I wasn't really planning on this, but I went ahead and snagged the front calipers and rotors. $50 for everything.
At first glance, I'm guessing they won't fit under my CLK wheels. They'd probably fit under my Evo 2s, but I was planning on selling those. They also might fit my R129. Not sure.
I'll do some research and see what exactly these are and what fits with which wheels. I might consider keeping the Evos. I don't know. Not sure if the 8.25 inch wide wheels will fit the 400E. I also really like the lightweight CLK setup and don't really want to add all that weight at each corner.
I'm probably also going to pull a bunch of stuff off the rear end of this donor car too. It has much beefier rear brakes than my R129. The R129 has tiny solid rotors that are like 8mm thick. Its weird. Not sure if these will be an upgrade for the 400E or not, but they'll be better than what I have on the 500SL, so I think I want them.
I think I'll also snag the rear knuckles, CV axles, and wheels speed sensors. I'm pretty determined to swap a different rear diff into one or both of my cars. I'd like a limited slip in both, and I need lower gears in the R129. I'm seriously thinking about a Ford Explorer 8.8 IRS.
I can fabricate and machine whatever is needed to mount it up. Obviously I'll have to deal with driveshaft and CV axle connections. The other big thing is the wheel speed sensors though. My 400E just has a single sensor since it doesn't have ASR, but my 500SL has two sensors. The 2000 SL500 has wheel speed sensors at the knuckles, so swapping those knuckles and possibly outer cv end with tone ring should allow me to keep ABS and ASR.
Does anyone know of any other good upgrade parts I should snag off this donor? I noticed it has a 150 amp alternator, which I might snag for my 500SL. I don't know exactly what it has, but I doubt it's a 150.
I yanked the wheels off and noticed some big Brembo brakes up front. I don't know if this is the Silver Arrow setup or not. I wasn't really planning on this, but I went ahead and snagged the front calipers and rotors. $50 for everything.
At first glance, I'm guessing they won't fit under my CLK wheels. They'd probably fit under my Evo 2s, but I was planning on selling those. They also might fit my R129. Not sure.
I'll do some research and see what exactly these are and what fits with which wheels. I might consider keeping the Evos. I don't know. Not sure if the 8.25 inch wide wheels will fit the 400E. I also really like the lightweight CLK setup and don't really want to add all that weight at each corner.
I'm probably also going to pull a bunch of stuff off the rear end of this donor car too. It has much beefier rear brakes than my R129. The R129 has tiny solid rotors that are like 8mm thick. Its weird. Not sure if these will be an upgrade for the 400E or not, but they'll be better than what I have on the 500SL, so I think I want them.
I think I'll also snag the rear knuckles, CV axles, and wheels speed sensors. I'm pretty determined to swap a different rear diff into one or both of my cars. I'd like a limited slip in both, and I need lower gears in the R129. I'm seriously thinking about a Ford Explorer 8.8 IRS.
I can fabricate and machine whatever is needed to mount it up. Obviously I'll have to deal with driveshaft and CV axle connections. The other big thing is the wheel speed sensors though. My 400E just has a single sensor since it doesn't have ASR, but my 500SL has two sensors. The 2000 SL500 has wheel speed sensors at the knuckles, so swapping those knuckles and possibly outer cv end with tone ring should allow me to keep ABS and ASR.
Does anyone know of any other good upgrade parts I should snag off this donor? I noticed it has a 150 amp alternator, which I might snag for my 500SL. I don't know exactly what it has, but I doubt it's a 150.
What a great score! Those are the 334mm Brembos, they will not fit under the CLK's but will fit under the Evos. The 8.25 Evos will fit the 400E with some light fender massaging. Get the matching rear brakes while you can (300mm Ate).
The rear diff is totally different... not sure if any of that will fit the 400E subframe. It's the "reinforced" carrier, the internals are all unique. But it's 2.65 gears, IIRC.
150A alternator is also a great score, upgrade from the 115A you have now.
The rear diff is totally different... not sure if any of that will fit the 400E subframe. It's the "reinforced" carrier, the internals are all unique. But it's 2.65 gears, IIRC.
150A alternator is also a great score, upgrade from the 115A you have now.
Yeah, definitely not interested in the diff from this car. Just the knuckles that will allow me to outboard the wheel speed sensors so I can do a custom Ford diff setup.
I have a 150 in my 400E already. This would be a good spare for that, or potentially an upgrade for my 500SL.
That's what I thought. I'll definitely grab the matching rear brakes. I might also grab the front sway bar. At a glance it looked beefier than the early R129 bar I have on my 400E now.
I just have to decide what's better. Smaller brakes and lightweight CLK wheels, or big brakes and more weight.
I like the appearance of both wheels, so that doesn't really matter much to me. Obviously wider tires on the Evos would put more rubber on the ground, but I'm just not sure if it's worth the weight penalty.
I like the appearance of both wheels, so that doesn't really matter much to me. Obviously wider tires on the Evos would put more rubber on the ground, but I'm just not sure if it's worth the weight penalty.
The owner has appeared on the forum!
Or at least, this car is in their profile photo:
Opinions about collectibility of 400e | 400E / E420 Discussions
I just bought a 92 with the thought that I like them, but also that I can get some of the 500e fun in an affordable range. I do feel 400e will become more desirable, but I don’t see much support for that belief. I had a 500e, but regretfully sold it.
www.500eboard.co
Yeah, he posted it for sale on Facebook a few months ago. Bad trans, and the interior still a mess. Wanted way too much for it. He also never transferred the title. Dude's been running around with the expired plates from the prior owner for years.The owner has appeared on the forum!
Or at least, this car is in their profile photo:
Opinions about collectibility of 400e | 400E / E420 Discussions
I just bought a 92 with the thought that I like them, but also that I can get some of the 500e fun in an affordable range. I do feel 400e will become more desirable, but I don’t see much support for that belief. I had a 500e, but regretfully sold it.www.500eboard.co
I'm curious if it's the same guy, or if someone bought it from him. Says it's getting a replacement transmission from an E400 (sic).
It's the same guy. He joined in 2022, and that user name is pretty close to his name on Facebook.I'm curious if it's the same guy, or if someone bought it from him. Says it's getting a replacement transmission from an E400 (sic).
It's been a good week for junk yard hunting. I got the front and rear brakes off the 2000 SL500. I don't think I'll install those on the 400E. I think I'll see about installing them on my 500SL instead. I think the added weight of the brakes, along with heavier wheels would hurt overall performance more than I'd actually gain from the bigger brakes. Those CLK wheels are just magical.
I also got the rear suspension hub/spindle assemblies from that car. They utilized wheel speed sensors at the hub, meaning I can install a differential without the speed sensors and still retain ASR/ABS. I obviously took the wheel speed sensors as well.
Not sure exactly what I'll do about tone rings. The CV axles on that car did not come out intact, so I didn't get them. I did knock the tone rings off the axles and take those though. They are ever so slightly larger in diameter than the outer diameter of the outer cv joints on my spare 400E ASR shafts. I could probably press them on with some thin shim stock and maybe a little epoxy or something though. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
The SL500 cv axles used the smaller 25mm shaft anyway, so not ideal. I'd love to find a set of axles that use the larger shaft and a tone ring. If anyone has any ideas for that let me know. I did see a 2003 CLK at the junk yard that looked promising.
I also managed to score a new mirror switch for my SL, as well as a washer fluid reservoir, washer nozzles, parking brake release handle, 150 amp alternator, and a bunch of other small bits and pieces. That $500 500SL is getting to be pretty nicely sorted at this point.
I measured the front sway bar and I was wrong about it being beefier. The 2000 SL500 uses the same 30mm diameter sway bar as the earlier R129s.
This morning I was checking the inventory for my local pick and pull yards online and saw that one of them had a Chrysler Crossfire. They don't list any specifics on engine/trans, or condition online, so I went out to have a look. To my delight, I found the car had a 6 speed manual.
So yeah, I have a 6 speed now. I pulled the trans, the complete shifter assembly, the cross member, as well as the dual mass flywheel and clutch. The clutch and flywheel must have been replaced moments before the car was wrecked, because they were basically brand new.
Total cost for the trans and all ancillary parts: $220.
Obviously there is a lot more required to make that work. My plan is to try to make my own adapter plate to bolt the trans to the engine, and then to make an adapter to bolt the dual mass flywheel to the M119, with the stock M119 flex plate still in place for the sake of the starter and crankshaft position sensor. I have not seen anyone swap in a 6 speed and retain the dual mass flywheel, but I'd like to give it a shot.
Granted, it might not work out, and if I can't get it to work I can always just send a pile of money to Kangaroos Team, but I'd like to try making the parts myself first.
At the end of the day, I'd like to have a 6 speed and a limited slip in both my 400E and my 500SL. For now I think the 6 speed is going in the 400E, and I'll probably experiment with a diff swap in the 500SL. If I get the process down on both of those, I can repeat the processes to do the same upgrades on the other cars.
I also got the rear suspension hub/spindle assemblies from that car. They utilized wheel speed sensors at the hub, meaning I can install a differential without the speed sensors and still retain ASR/ABS. I obviously took the wheel speed sensors as well.
Not sure exactly what I'll do about tone rings. The CV axles on that car did not come out intact, so I didn't get them. I did knock the tone rings off the axles and take those though. They are ever so slightly larger in diameter than the outer diameter of the outer cv joints on my spare 400E ASR shafts. I could probably press them on with some thin shim stock and maybe a little epoxy or something though. I'll cross that bridge when I get there.
The SL500 cv axles used the smaller 25mm shaft anyway, so not ideal. I'd love to find a set of axles that use the larger shaft and a tone ring. If anyone has any ideas for that let me know. I did see a 2003 CLK at the junk yard that looked promising.
I also managed to score a new mirror switch for my SL, as well as a washer fluid reservoir, washer nozzles, parking brake release handle, 150 amp alternator, and a bunch of other small bits and pieces. That $500 500SL is getting to be pretty nicely sorted at this point.
I measured the front sway bar and I was wrong about it being beefier. The 2000 SL500 uses the same 30mm diameter sway bar as the earlier R129s.
This morning I was checking the inventory for my local pick and pull yards online and saw that one of them had a Chrysler Crossfire. They don't list any specifics on engine/trans, or condition online, so I went out to have a look. To my delight, I found the car had a 6 speed manual.
So yeah, I have a 6 speed now. I pulled the trans, the complete shifter assembly, the cross member, as well as the dual mass flywheel and clutch. The clutch and flywheel must have been replaced moments before the car was wrecked, because they were basically brand new.
Total cost for the trans and all ancillary parts: $220.
Obviously there is a lot more required to make that work. My plan is to try to make my own adapter plate to bolt the trans to the engine, and then to make an adapter to bolt the dual mass flywheel to the M119, with the stock M119 flex plate still in place for the sake of the starter and crankshaft position sensor. I have not seen anyone swap in a 6 speed and retain the dual mass flywheel, but I'd like to give it a shot.
Granted, it might not work out, and if I can't get it to work I can always just send a pile of money to Kangaroos Team, but I'd like to try making the parts myself first.
At the end of the day, I'd like to have a 6 speed and a limited slip in both my 400E and my 500SL. For now I think the 6 speed is going in the 400E, and I'll probably experiment with a diff swap in the 500SL. If I get the process down on both of those, I can repeat the processes to do the same upgrades on the other cars.
I just swapped the late R129 334mm brakes onto my early R129 500SL. Nice upgrade.
That leaves me with a set of 93 500SL front brakes sitting around. The rotors are 300x28mm. That's the standard 036 setup, isn't it? Somewhat bigger than the 294x25mm rotors I have on my 400E now. The 300mm rotors and pads are basically brand new, and the rotors are OE.
Is that a worthwhile and doable upgrade? I don't believe my nearly new Porterfield pads will work, so I'd probably end up needing a new set of pads. I see from Dave's data that the weight is basically the same as the 294mm setup, so that's a plus. I'm not sure whether my CLK wheels would clear though.
Edit: Dave's data indicates the Porterfield pads will work on the 300mm brakes. Score!
If the swap is doable and worthwhile, I guess I'll have a very nice set of 294mm brakes to sell.
The rear brakes from the 500SL are 9mm thick solid rotors. I assume the stock 400E rears are at least as good as those. So no point in messing with those.
That leaves me with a set of 93 500SL front brakes sitting around. The rotors are 300x28mm. That's the standard 036 setup, isn't it? Somewhat bigger than the 294x25mm rotors I have on my 400E now. The 300mm rotors and pads are basically brand new, and the rotors are OE.
Is that a worthwhile and doable upgrade? I don't believe my nearly new Porterfield pads will work, so I'd probably end up needing a new set of pads. I see from Dave's data that the weight is basically the same as the 294mm setup, so that's a plus. I'm not sure whether my CLK wheels would clear though.
Edit: Dave's data indicates the Porterfield pads will work on the 300mm brakes. Score!
If the swap is doable and worthwhile, I guess I'll have a very nice set of 294mm brakes to sell.
The rear brakes from the 500SL are 9mm thick solid rotors. I assume the stock 400E rears are at least as good as those. So no point in messing with those.
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The 300x28 front brakes bolt up to the 400E, other than wheel clearance issues (caliper likely to hit w/o spacers). Brake pads are identical between 294, 295, 300, and 320mm front calipers.
Rear R129 brakes are 9mm (non-vented), 400E are 24mm (vented)... same diameter. So, the 400E rears are better (more heat dissipation).
Rear R129 brakes are 9mm (non-vented), 400E are 24mm (vented)... same diameter. So, the 400E rears are better (more heat dissipation).
Since it will cost next to nothing to do it, I would think there's no reason not to swap them, as long as they fit with the CLK wheels. The difference probably isn't huge, but I can't think of a downside.
Check it out. 1000 posts. This has gotten out of hand.
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