The $400 400E

[Beater400E]

Fixed. Got it all back together, bled and tested. No more leaks!

 

[gsxr]

For frog snacks. There is no seal. There's some grease, but that's it.

That's insane in the membrane.

Fixed. Got it all back together, bled and tested. No more leaks!

Damn, you are FAST!

 

[Beater400E]

Damn, you are FAST!

I cheat. The car is up on the lift and I used my Motive Power Bleeder.

 

[a777fan]

Thats nuts. Glad it was an obvious fix, but geeze.

 

[Beater400E]

Well, got the exhaust system mostly finished. I need a couple tight radius mandrel bends to get the tip where it needs to be. Took a quick trip to "Mexico" to see how the performance is at this point.

I'm still using the HP Tuners Track Addict app for timing. I think the app struggles to determine when I start moving. Here are the numbers across 3 runs according to the app:

Run 1:




Run 2:


Run 3:

 

[Beater400E]

Exhaust is finally done.

 

[gsxr]

Just in time to attend the Last Blast at Firebird this Saturday, Oct-14!

Last Blast Open Test Day | October 14 | Firebird Raceway

The Last Blast Open Test Day on Sat., Oct. 14th, marks the final opportunity of 2023 to make runs at Firebird.

firebirdonline.com

You still have stock 2.24 gears, correct?

 

[Beater400E]

Just in time to attend the Last Blast at Firebird this Saturday, Oct-14!

Last Blast Open Test Day | October 14 | Firebird Raceway

The Last Blast Open Test Day on Sat., Oct. 14th, marks the final opportunity of 2023 to make runs at Firebird.

firebirdonline.com

You still have stock 2.24 gears, correct?

I do still have stock 2.24 gears. I might be interested in getting out to the track. I'd probably need to figure out why the car is running weird first though.

I just went and took the car on a real shake-down run. Went and did the loop through Banks, Lowman, and Idaho City. It's the first time I've ever driven the car more than about 10 miles.

The handling, ride, and brakes are phenomenal. I absolutely love it. One of the best cars I've ever driven in that respect. The engine is very frustrating though.

From a stop, the car will accelerate fine, but I suspect it's down on power, especially in higher RPMs. The real issue though is when I stand on it at highway speeds. The car will downshift, begin to pull, then fall on its face for a moment before it picks up again and continues pulling. Again, I suspect it should have more to give up top.

That stumble just after the downshift is disconcerting. It almost feels like the car is pulling timing or fuel for a moment. It does it every time I boot it at highway speed.

I'll have to think about whether I want to take it out to Firebird if I can't clear this up. It would be a shame to miss the opportunity though, since I can safely say I won't wait until spring to swap in my 3.06 diff. To be fair, I doubt the car will have the 4.2 in it come spring either, so we may have missed the chance to get a good A-B test between the two diffs anyway.

Any idea what might cause the stumble on the downshift? I have not scanned it yet. That's my next step. Just figured I'd probe the brighter minds for ideas.

 

[gsxr]

Normally I'd blame the ETA, but you don't have ASR. Check codes first. What happens when you accelerate from a stop at WOT, will it pull cleanly through 1st and 2nd gear? And does it upshift at 6000rpm for both 1-2 and 2-3 shifts? If so, it would be OK for a Firebird visit. Plus, you still have a week to get it sorted out!

 

[Beater400E]

It does pull cleanly from a stop, although I suspect it's still down on power a bit. It will sometimes fall off a bit at the top of second or third. It's only immediately after a downshift, or occasionally at the top of a gear that it will break up a bit.

I'm working through codes right now.
I have code 22 on pin 4, o2 sensor heater. I'm sure that's just stored from before I had the exhaust finished, although I can't get it to clear.

I also have codes 11, 13, and 16 on pin 6, ABS. still working through the rest as I speak.

 

[Beater400E]

Pin 7 has codes 2, 6, and 7.
Pin 8 has codes 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 17.
Pin 16 has code 1.
Pin 17 has code 8.
Pin 19 has code 6.

 

[Beater400E]

Got all of them cleared except for code 6 on pin 19. Idle speed control faulty.

Thoughts?

Edit: cycling the key off an on cleared that one. I'm now code free. Time for a drive.

 

[Beater400E]

Weirdly, my check engine light is now on.

Edit: again, key off/on cleared that up.

 

[Beater400E]

The severity of the issue is directly proportional to the speed I'm traveling when I stomp the gas. From a standstill it will accelerate smoothly to 90+, although I suspect some horses are missing.

Around 40 mph is where I begin to detect it. When the car downshifts, it takes off for a fraction of a second before a noticeable dip in power occurs, and then it typically clears up and pulls smoothly. At 40, it's barely noticeable. At 50 it's more noticeable. 60 even more so.

I just tried it at 90 and it did something new. 90 mph in 4th, hammer the throttle. The car downshifts to 3rd, then begins to take off for a split second. Then it bogs hard. Then is smooths out again for a half second or so, and then it bogs again. It will oscillate between clean, and bogging about every 1/2 to 1 full second. It'll keep doing that until I lift.

I'm going to scan for codes and see if anything new came up on that drive.

 

[a777fan]

Weird. You’ve already replaced the upper harness, right? (Can’t remember…)

 

[gsxr]

Progress! Now see which codes, if any, return quickly after some WOT pulls where it acts funny.

If the hesitation occurs ONLY near redline just before an upshift, the trans overload switch is suspect... but this should store code 8 on pin 17 (EZL). If you keep getting that code returning, check the wires first, but it's likely you need a new O/L switch (dealer only now, they are NLA aftermarket last I checked).

The oscillation is typically the ETA on an ASR car, but your non-ASR car should be holding the throttle plate open at WOT. This could be tough to diagnose without observing live data while driving.

 

[Beater400E]

Weird. You’ve already replaced the upper harness, right? (Can’t remember…)

Upper harness was replaced by a prior owner.

 

[Beater400E]

I got code 6 on pin 7 and code 8 on pin 17 after that drive.

 

[Beater400E]

I assume my 94 S500 parts car has the same overload switch. Should I just swap it out and see what happens?

 

[gsxr]

I assume my 94 S500 parts car has the same overload switch. Should I just swap it out and see what happens?

Hmmm... it's free and worth a try! If you have a MityVac that produces pressure, I think you can bench-test the switch by applying pressure to the port and seeing if it opens/closes at the rated pressure stamped on the edge. There's also a date code stamped, so you can tell if the switch is original. This should clear up EZL pin 17, code 8.

Pin 7 (T/LLR) code #6 is a bit more of a mystery as the factory docs say "invalid for USA". I'm curious what the SDS/HHT-Win would display, as this shows a text message along with the code number. For ASR cars this would be a NSS error (Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch (S16/1)).

 

[Beater400E]

I'm formulating a dumb idea. I'm guessing my S500 has a 4 arm differential input flange, meaning I should be able to harvest that flange and get my 3.06 diff ready to go. I wonder if I could get away with taking the car to the track, laying down a baseline time, and then swapping the diff in the pits and running again later in the day.

 

[Beater400E]

The connector on the 400E has seen better days.

 

[gsxr]

I'm formulating a dumb idea. I'm guessing my S500 has a 4 arm differential input flange, meaning I should be able to harvest that flange and get my 3.06 diff ready to go.

Problem: The 140 chassis with 5L and 6L engines use a "reinforced" differential that has a lot of different parts, including a different 4-arm input flange. The part number is not the same, and I have a feeling it won't fit your 3.06 diff... possibly the pinion is larger diameter on your S500. If you want to prep the 3.06 diff ahead of time, you'd need to source the matching part number flange (126-350-16-45), see EPC screenshot below for potential donor chassis. Slim pickins... early 129 or a 140 with 4.2L, or another 034/036.

I wonder if I could get away with taking the car to the track, laying down a baseline time, and then swapping the diff in the pits and running again later in the day.

There are 2 issues with this plan:

1) If you've never swapped the diff on the 400E before, don't try it the first time at the track - period. If you've had the diff in & out on the lift and know what you're in for, AND also have had every single bolt/nut removed & reinstalled so nothing is seized, and are confident you can pull this off on your back - ok! It's usually a 2-3 hour job, but could be less if you work fast and have done it recently, so you know exactly what tools are needed.

B) Ideally you want at least 2-3 runs at the track for a given setup, as each pass will be slightly different. And, if anything goes wrong - wheelspin, shift hiccup, whatever - then you lose 60-90 minutes waiting for your next run. Depending on weather and car count you generally get a minimum of 2-3 runs, and likely not more than 5-6 total, in the 5-hour window. And if there's a delay due to an oil down or something, ugh - that burns another 30-90 minutes. That said, it is really nice if you can test changes the same day.

iii) With the 2.24 diff and tire pressure at ~20psi, and a burnout, you should hook up ok. WIth the 3.06 gears, I'm not so sure. With a 5.0L engine and 3.06 gears, traction will be even more of a challenge.

 

[gsxr]

The connector on the 400E has seen better days.

Actually that looks better than most! The rubber boot always disintegrates, and it's not sold separately... and the harness is NLA. Just worry about the electrical connection underneath, make sure there's not a broken solder joint. The boot just keeps water & dirt out of the connections, it's not critical. Another forum member had sourced a replacement that doesn't fit very well, but is better than no rubber boot at all.

 

[a777fan]

Yep, my harness looked very similar. I just used some heavy duty heat shrink tubing to ‘patch’ it up.

 

[Beater400E]

Actually that looks better than most! The rubber boot always disintegrates, and it's not sold separately... and the harness is NLA. Just worry about the electrical connection underneath, make sure there's not a broken solder joint. The boot just keeps water & dirt out of the connections, it's not critical. Another forum member had sourced a replacement that doesn't fit very well, but is better than no rubber boot at all.

Well, I went to clean it up and add some liquid electrical tape and the thing basically exploded. Now I don't even have the retaining ring.

 

[Beater400E]

Problem: The 140 chassis with 5L and 6L engines use a "reinforced" differential that has a lot of different parts, including a different 4-arm input flange. The part number is not the same, and I have a feeling it won't fit your 3.06 diff... possibly the pinion is larger diameter on your S500. If you want to prep the 3.06 diff ahead of time, you'd need to source the matching part number flange (126-350-16-45), see EPC screenshot below for potential donor chassis. Slim pickins... early 129 or a 140 with 4.2L, or another 034/036.




There are 2 issues with this plan:

1) If you've never swapped the diff on the 400E before, don't try it the first time at the track - period. If you've had the diff in & out on the lift and know what you're in for, AND also have had every single bolt/nut removed & reinstalled so nothing is seized, and are confident you can pull this off on your back - ok! It's usually a 2-3 hour job, but could be less if you work fast and have done it recently, so you know exactly what tools are needed.

B) Ideally you want at least 2-3 runs at the track for a given setup, as each pass will be slightly different. And, if anything goes wrong - wheelspin, shift hiccup, whatever - then you lose 60-90 minutes waiting for your next run. Depending on weather and car count you generally get a minimum of 2-3 runs, and likely not more than 5-6 total, in the 5-hour window. And if there's a delay due to an oil down or something, ugh - that burns another 30-90 minutes. That said, it is really nice if you can test changes the same day.

iii) With the 2.24 diff and tire pressure at ~20psi, and a burnout, you should hook up ok. WIth the 3.06 gears, I'm not so sure. With a 5.0L engine and 3.06 gears, traction will be even more of a challenge.


View attachment 175296

Sounds like a lot would have to go right. Unlikely that I'd be able to find the correct flange. I did pull the rear diff out of my 300E parts car. It wasn't too bad. Not sure how much more difficult the 400E would be. I'd plan on going through and cleaning up and breaking loose all the hardware ahead of time to hopefully avoid issues, and then my thought was that I'd actually trailer the car to the track so that I'd be able to trailer it home if things go badly, and so that I could use the trailer and its ramps to facilitate swapping the diff more easily.

I'm sure it's just not reasonable, so I probably won't even try. At this point I'll be happy if I can get it running properly by Saturday. Granted, from what you've described it sounds like the trans overload switch shouldn't have much effect on the ET.

 

[Beater400E]

Turns out just getting that silly switch out of the trans is tough. To get it done I had to buy a 36mm shallow socket from Autozone, then mill about .300 off it to get it short enough to squeeze between the trans and the tunnel, and then I welded a chunk of scrap to it for a handle. What a pain. It's out though.

 

[gsxr]

Well, I went to clean it up and add some liquid electrical tape and the thing basically exploded. Now I don't even have the retaining ring.

Yep... the retaining ring only holds the rubber boot anyway, so there's not much lost here. Just make sure the pins/sockets are clean & tight.

Sounds like a lot would have to go right. Unlikely that I'd be able to find the correct flange. I did pull the rear diff out of my 300E parts car. It wasn't too bad. Not sure how much more difficult the 400E would be.

The 400E stuff is all bigger and heavier, and less fun. The diff weighs something like 90 lbs, IIRC?

Granted, from what you've described it sounds like the trans overload switch shouldn't have much effect on the ET.

When I had the trans O/L acting up, it would make almost no difference in ET, but it causes a hiccup near redline before a shift where you thinkg "huh, that ain't right". And, code 8 on the EZL, every time.

Turns out just getting that sully switch out of the trans is tough. To get it done I had to buy a 36mm shallow socket from Autozone, then mill about .300 off it to get it short enough to squeeze between the trans and the tunnel, and then I welded a chunk of scrap to it for a handle. What a pain. It's out though.

Wow! Nice job fabricating the tools! And yes, it's TIGHT on the 124 chassis. Think I use a 36mm open-end wrench for this. Should be lots more room on the 140 chassis. You can probably re-use the O-rings for now. There's a How-To on the forum, IIRC... or at least a thread with more details.

 

[Beater400E]

Hard to tell whether this switch is any good. It has no continuity normally, but when I apply compressed air it does close. I'm not sure what pressure though.

 

[Beater400E]

Pin 7 (T/LLR) code #6 is a bit more of a mystery as the factory docs say "invalid for USA". I'm curious what the SDS/HHT-Win would display, as this shows a text message along with the code number. For ASR cars this would be a NSS error (Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch (S16/1)).

Are we saying a NSS failure on a non-ASR car would not throw a code?

 

[gsxr]

Hard to tell whether this switch is any good. It has no continuity normally, but when I apply compressed air it does close. I'm not sure what pressure though.

That's where a MityVac with a pressure gauge is handy, you can view the pressure when it closes, and see if it matches spec (1.8 bar, IIRC?)

Are we saying a NSS failure on a non-ASR car would not throw a code?

I really don't know - this could be an error in the WIS document. I've never had a non-ASR 034 as a daily driver, all of ours have ASR.

 

[Beater400E]

That's where a MityVac with a pressure gauge is handy, you can view the pressure when it closes, and see if it matches spec (1.8 bar, IIRC?)

My MityVac only pulls vacuum. I might be able to use my power brake bleeder though. The switch says 1,8 ± 0,2. I assume that's bar, so that's 23 - 29 psi. I ordered a new switch from Naperville anyway, but I'll do some testing and see what I can figure out. The switch on my S500 is damaged, so I might run out to the Jungle and yank the overload switch and probably the NSS from the S500 transmission I left laying on the ground after I yanked its engine.

I really don't know - this could be an error in the WIS document. I've never had a non-ASR 034 as a daily driver, all of ours have ASR.

I replaced the entire shifter and the shift bushing in this car a little while ago. I wonder of I need to adjust the NSS. I would assume that the NSS adjustment is tied to the shift positions in the trans more than to the shifter, but it certainly won't hurt to check.

The NSS is NLA. There are a few new ones on Ebay for about $140. I wonder if I should just grab one.

 

[gsxr]

That reminds me... is the S500 Jungle transmission mostly sealed / enclosed, so water didn't get inside while out in the rain? Complete with converter installed too?

NSS 000-545-62-06 possibly NLA... that's insane. These had been NLA from the dealer for a while, but had been available as OEM / aftermarket. Looks like the supply might have dried up sometime in the past 10-12 months? All I'm finding are the handful on eBay now. Sheesh.

 

[Beater400E]

That reminds me... is the S500 Jungle transmission mostly sealed / enclosed, so water didn't get inside while out in the rain? Complete with converter installed too?

The paint pen on it indicates it's from an S420. I assume someone swapped it into the S500 at some point in the car's past. The trans was not opened, although the converter is off. The converter is still there. It's been almost 2 months at this point, so no guarantees that the rain hasn't found its way in.

 

[Beater400E]

Just tested the overload switch with the power bleeder. The circuit remains open to at least 32ish psi. The gauge on the power bleeder only goes to 30. I went a little past that and the circuit still didn't close. 1.8 bar + 0.2 is 29 psi, so this switch is outside of spec by at least a bit. New switch is on its way.

 

[gerryvz]

The front crank sensor is for the 11-pin diagnostic port near the ABS/ASR pump and EZL, this was eliminated (cost savings) on facelift models. You don't need it.

Nine-pin, no?


With the advent of LH / HFM it was really no longer needed, seeing as all of the same information could be supplied electronically through the HHT system.

 

[gsxr]

Nine-pin, no?

You are correct! It's a 9-pin diagnostic socket, designated X11.

With the advent of LH / HFM it was really no longer needed, seeing as all of the same information could be supplied electronically through the HHT system.

9-pin diagnostic socket X11 was phased out completely with facelift production, along with the front crank sensor.

 

[Beater400E]

Update. I went after work and pulled the overload switch and NSS from the 95 S500 in the junk yard that donated its engine for this car. I tested the overload switch and it did close at 28 psi, which is within spec.

I installed that switch, and did my best to refurb the connector with liquid electrical tape, heat shrink, and regular electrical tape. It holds firmly on the switch, so I think it's fine. I cleared the codes and went for a drive.

The issue I was having is gone. It no longer bogs immediately following a hard downshift. Now that I know exactly what it's doing I can tell it is still pulling just a bit of timing at that point right after the shift. I'm sure that's normal though.

The oscillating throttle issue I was having above 90 is also gone. Aside from the fact that I want lower gears and a bunch more power, I think it's perfect.

When I got back I did scan for codes again. Pin 17 just gives me a 1, so we're good there. Aside from that I am still getting code 6 on pin 7. I don't notice any symptoms, but haven't done any troubleshooting either.

I do have a new overload switch coming from Naperville. When that comes in some time next week I'll swap it in.

That does resolve the only major concern I had though. I'm thinking I may be ready for the drag strip.

 

[Beater400E]

Any pointers for a relative noob headed to the drag strip? The last time I ran at the strip was 2001, and I can't say I really remember too much.

 

[Jlaa]

Update. I went after work and pulled the overload switch and NSS from the 95 S500 in the junk yard that donated its engine for this car. I tested the overload switch and it did close at 28 psi, which is within spec.

I installed that switch, and did my best to refurb the connector with liquid electrical tape, heat shrink, and regular electrical tape. It holds firmly on the switch, so I think it's fine. I cleared the codes and went for a drive.

@Beater400E - Have you ever considered other mechanical endeavors larger in scope than repairing automobiles? I mean, you make Speedy Gonzales look like Speedy Molasses.

I read one update from you and then like 20 mins later you are all “Yeah so after I had my first sip of coffee I yanked an engine out, took off the heads, and did a valve job. Then I added some creamer and took my second sip of coffee. ”

I bet you could raise the Titanic and rebuild it into fine running shape in about a day or so…..

 

[Beater400E]

@Beater400E - Have you ever considered other mechanical endeavors larger in scope than repairing automobiles? I mean, you make Speedy Gonzales look like Speedy Molasses.

I read one update from you and then like 20 mins later you are all “Yeah so after I had my first sip of coffee I yanked an engine out, took off the heads, and did a valve job. Then I added some creamer and took my second sip of coffee. ”

I bet you could raise the Titanic and rebuild it into fine running shape in about a day or so…..

Lol. I enjoy wrenching because I don't do it for a living. I used to, but that got old fast. Gave up on that and got into data engineering where problem solving is the whole job and busting knuckles to implement a solution is not required. The great thing is when I'm off work and choose to wrench on something I usually have a clear plan and plenty of energy. Just don't ask me to work on interiors!

 

[gsxr]

Any pointers for a relative noob headed to the drag strip? The last time I ran at the strip was 2001, and I can't say I really remember too much.

I need to create a "Tips & Tricks" thread for the dragstrip, like I did for the dyno. I'll try to do that by the end of the week. Plan to arrive with 1/4 tank of fuel, 91 octane is fine, no need for race gas. (I went to Motor Mayhem in Meridian for all my Dynojet pulls, btw.)

In the meantime, here's some light reading on some other 034 dragstrip adventures:

Running a 1993 400E at the dragstrip | Street and Strip

So tonight, a wonderfully brisk 37* night, was perfect for the local test and tune. Sea level at Royal purple raceway. Car is a bone stock 93 400e on Evo 2's. 245 Chinese rubber all around. Has a rough idle, I think it's a burned valve, but runs pretty strong off idle. (I can't find the issue)...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Beater400E]

I still have that NSS code in the car. It really bothers me to know that a relatively simple part like a NSS has to be scrapped and replaced when the actual internal issue might be incredibly minor. It's even more painful knowing that a replacement part is no longer available. Although some OE NOS parts are out in the world, those will undoubtedly dry up in the near future, meaning the only remaining options will be to find a good used NSS, or to repair it.

For that reason, I decided I'm going to repair my NSS. I figure if I screw it up (hint, I already did) I have 2 others I can refine my process on, and if I fail 3 times I can just get one of the remaining NOS OE switches out there. I removed and disassembled my original NSS and discovered the problem. I have repaired the problem and am waiting on some supplies to finish the reassembly hopefully tomorrow.

I believe the NSS will be as good as new once I'm done, and if so I intend to post a how to on repairing the NSS.

More to come tomorrow.

 

[Jlaa]

I still have that NSS code in the car. It really bothers me to know that a relatively simple part like a NSS has to be scrapped and replaced when the actual internal issue might be incredibly minor. It's even more painful knowing that a replacement part is no longer available. Although some OE NOS parts are out in the world, those will undoubtedly dry up in the near future, meaning the only remaining options will be to find a good used NSS, or to repair it.

For that reason, I decided I'm going to repair my NSS. I figure if I screw it up (hint, I already did) I have 2 others I can refine my process on, and if I fail 3 times I can just get one of the remaining NOS OE switches out there. I removed and disassembled my original NSS and discovered the problem. I have repaired the problem and am waiting on some supplies to finish the reassembly hopefully tomorrow.

I believe the NSS will be as good as new once I'm done, and if so I intend to post a how to on repairing the NSS.

More to come tomorrow.

See here for rebuilding the NSS - HOW-TO: Replacing Neutral Safety Switch (S16/3) | Transmission and Driveline

 

[Beater400E]

See here for rebuilding the NSS - HOW-TO: Replacing Neutral Safety Switch (S16/3) | Transmission and Driveline

Nice. I hadn't seen that. Pretty much the same thing I was doing.

 

[gsxr]

I need to create a "Tips & Tricks" thread for the dragstrip, like I did for the dyno. I'll try to do that by the end of the week. Plan to arrive with 1/4 tank of fuel, 91 octane is fine, no need for race gas. (I went to Motor Mayhem in Meridian for all my Dynojet pulls, btw.)

Here ya go...

Tips & Tricks: Going to the dragstrip for the first time | Street and Strip

This post is intended to walk you through what to expect for your first time at the dragstrip, and how to prepare the car before arriving. It's primarily aimed at the W124 chassis and 400E/500E, but the same principles apply to almost any vehicle. TLDR: Make the car as light as (reasonably)...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Beater400E]

Here ya go...

Tips & Tricks: Going to the dragstrip for the first time | Street and Strip

This post is intended to walk you through what to expect for your first time at the dragstrip, and how to prepare the car before arriving. It's primarily aimed at the W124 chassis and 400E/500E, but the same principles apply to almost any vehicle. TLDR: Make the car as light as (reasonably)...

www.500eboard.co

Wow, that's a great write-up. Thanks for that.

Unfortunately I think I will not be able to make it to Saturday's festivities. While messing with my NSS, I noticed I'm leaking oil again. Looks like valve cover gaskets at a minimum, and possibly lower oil pan again. I never did the valve cover gaskets on this car, so no surprises there. I've struggled to get the lower pan to seal since I bought the car too. I've done the gasket twice so far, but I think I'm fighting a bent pan from overtorquing of the pan rail bolts by the prior idiot. I'd love to find a straight pan without shelling out $150 for a brand new one.

To avoid being THAT GUY, I should probably make sure that all gets sorted first.

I did some reading on the phone based race timing apps. Supposedly they can be quite accurate, and most importantly consistent when paired with a Bluetooth GPS antenna with a higher sampling rate. Most phones will only get one reading per second, hence the difficulty getting times that are accurate to the tenth. Apparently bluetooth antennas have much higher sampling rates, like 10 to 20 readings per second depending in the model, and this makes all the difference.

It still won't be as accurate as the track, but since I probably won't get to the track before I do a bunch of upgrades, I think an upgraded GPS antenna will be my next best option for before/after numbers with each upgrade I have planned.

 

[Beater400E]

Well, since it turns out there was already a fantastic write-up on refurbishing and testing the NSS, I won't bother posting my own, likely inferior version. Suffice it to say I found some carbon build up on some of the contact points inside. Cleaned everything up and reassembled. Cleared the code and went for a lengthy test drive.

The car behaved perfectly and after the drive I rescanned and the car is now code free.

I know the documentation indicates that code 6 on pin 7 should not occur on a non-ASR car, but I'm pretty confident that is incorrect based on this.

In case anyone is curious, here's where I had the carbon build-up that I believe was causing my problems.

 

[Beater400E]

I've looked at various bluetooth GPS antennas I could use with my phone, but good ones are between $100 and $200 depending on capabilites.

The new Racebox Mini S is only a little more. I'm seriously considering just getting that.