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The $400 400E

Well, I've ordered a bunch more parts to get this car near completion. Still waiting on the brake calipers. Hoping maybe somebody will come through with some used ones. Ebay does have mystery reman calipers for a reasonable $169.99 for the pair, so that's an option too. Here's the list of today's orders:

Part NamePart NumberQtySourceBrandPrice EachTotal Price
Timing Chain Guide1190500416
1​
AutohausAZ.comFebi-Bilstein$ 40.99$ 40.99
Timing Chain Guide1190520916
2​
AutohausAZ.comFebi-Bilstein$ 12.89$ 25.78
Timing Chain Guide1190521116
2​
AutohausAZ.comFebi-Bilstein$ 9.59$ 19.18
Engine Crankcase Breather Hose1190901982
1​
AutohausAZ.comMeyle$ 40.70$ 40.70
Front Main Seal1209970346
1​
AutohausAZ.comElring$ 6.49$ 6.49
Upper Oil Pan Gasket1190140322
1​
AutohausAZ.comVictor Reinz$ 7.19$ 7.19
Lower Oil Pan Gasket1190140822
1​
AutohausAZ.comVictor Reinz$ 18.59$ 18.59
Drag Link1244601205
1​
AutohausAZ.comFebi-Bilstein$ 32.99$ 32.99
Timing Chain Guide1190521316
1​
EbayMercedes-Benz$ 15.00$ 15.00
Brake Calipersboth front
1
Ebay???$ 169.99$ 169.99
Front Strut Mounts1243201444
2​
FCPEuroMeyle HD$ 24.39$ 48.78
Steering Damper1244630432
1​
FCPEuroStabillus$ 28.59$ 28.59
Brake Rotors1244212412
2​
FCPEuroMercedes-Benz$ 51.99$ 103.98
Front Wheel End Sway Bar Bushings1243235085
2​
FCPEuroMercedes-Benz$ 8.39$ 16.78
Water Neck Gasket1192010180
1​
FCPEuroVictor Reinz$ 1.49$ 1.49
Anaerobic SealerAFD-2018
1​
FCPEuroElring$ 18.39$ 18.39
Oiler Tube O Rings0159973148
32​
FCPEuroReinz$ 0.29$ 9.28
Cam Seals0189977947
4​
FCPEuroVictor Reinz$ 3.89$ 15.56
Rear Sway Bar End Link1243200489
2​
FCPEuroLemforder$ 11.59$ 23.18
Breather Hose Connector1179901578
4​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 1.85$ 7.40
Valve Cover Gasket Set1190101330
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 22.94$ 22.94
Valve Cover Gasket Set1190101430
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 22.23$ 22.23
Engine Crankcase Breather Hose1190160181
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 16.28$ 16.28
Timing Chain Guide1190500216
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 14.43$ 14.43
Timing Chain Guide1190500316
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 15.54$ 15.54
Timing Chain Guide1190520216
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 3.71$ 3.71
Timing Chain Guide1190521216
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 33.30$ 33.30
Spark Plug0031596803
8​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 3.89$ 31.12
Water Pump Gasket1192010380
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 4.07$ 4.07
Thermostat Gasket1199970445
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 2.29$ 2.29
Oil Filter Housing Gasket1191840280
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 5.00$ 5.00
Intake Runner Seal1171400265
8​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 5.93$ 47.44
Right Intake Manifold Gasket1191412680
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 11.86$ 11.86
Left Intake Manifold Gasket1191411580
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 12.21$ 12.21
EGR Gasket1191420180
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 1.78$ 1.78
Exhaust Manifold Gasket1191421380
2​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 13.69$ 27.38
Rear Main Seal1209970246
1​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 27.38$ 27.38
Strut Stops1243230644
2​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 17.39$ 34.78
Strut Dust Boots1293230192
2​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 9.62$ 19.24
Rear Sway Bar Frame Bushings1243260181
2​
Mboemparts.comMercedes-Benz$ 9.25$ 18.50
Brake PadsAP561.1
1​
PelicanPartsPorterfield$ 119.99$ 119.99
Front Frame Sway Bar Bushings1243235685
2​
PelicanPartsMercedes-Benz$ 9.44$ 18.88
Breather Hose Connector1190940312
2​
RockAutoURO$ 5.69$ 11.38
Engine Crankcase Breather Hose1190942882
1​
RockAutoURO$ 9.97$ 9.97
Engine Crankcase Breather Hose1190943182
1​
RockAutoURO$ 7.99$ 7.99
Engine Crankcase Breather Hose1190944082
1​
RockAutoURO$ 5.67$ 5.67
Engine Crankcase Breather Hose1190947782
1​
RockAutoURO$ 5.31$ 5.31
Engine Oil8044206
2​
RockAutoPentosin$ 34.79$ 69.58
Oil FilterPF2045
1​
RockAutoACDelco$ 8.22$ 8.22
Oil Fill Cap1110180302
1​
RockAutoURO$ 1.98$ 1.98
Front Struts22-003652
2​
RockAutoBilstein$ 137.79$ 275.58
Rear Struts24-014700
2​
RockAutoBilstein$ 111.79$ 223.58
 
Is that a typo for Meyle breather hose 1190901982 from AHAZ? The OE hose is $40.70 from Naperville.

It may be too late, but I'd cancel all those ÜRO breather hoses... they are cheap because they'll have a short lifespan. If you try them, see if they last months or years. The OE stuff is silly expensive but will last a decade or two.

For the ÜRO oil fill cap: there's a reasonably-priced OE/Genuine "tall" cap, order p/n 000-010-16-85-64, currently ~$8.50. Photo below. The ÜRO is the short-tab version which sometimes requires pliers to remove, I hate those. I only use the tall-tab caps now.

I can't recall if we've already discussed this or not, but except for very rare circumstances, ÜRO is to be avoided like the plague... ditto with APA, FEQ, MTC., Dorman, Hamburg, Trucktec, and a bunch of other garbage vendors listed here. Most of Meyle is junk too with the exception of some of their "HD" items; the Meyle HD strut mounts should be fine.
1693958023195.png
 
Is that a typo for Meyle breather hose 1190901982 from AHAZ?
Yup. Actual price was $18.49.

It may be too late, but I'd cancel all those ÜRO breather hoses... they are cheap because they'll have a short lifespan. If you try them, see if they last months or years. The OE stuff is silly expensive but will last a decade or two.
Yeah, I'm aware. Trying to save a little on non-critical things where I can. I spent over $1500 today on a $400 car. If (when) those parts do fail, I'll replace them with better quality.

For the ÜRO oil fill cap: there's a reasonably-priced OE/Genuine "tall" cap, order p/n 000-010-16-85-64, currently ~$8.50. Photo below. The ÜRO is the short-tab version which sometimes requires pliers to remove, I hate those. I only use the tall-tab caps now.
That's great to know. I was not aware of the tall cap at all. I'll definitely order one.

I can't recall if we've already discussed this or not, but except for very rare circumstances, ÜRO is to be avoided like the plague... ditto with APA, FEQ, MTC., Dorman, Hamburg, Trucktec, and a bunch of other garbage vendors listed here. Most of Meyle is junk too with the exception of some of their "HD" items; the Meyle HD strut mounts should be fine.
Good info. That's pretty much what I've gathered through research, and the parts I've already purchased. I'm trying to make sure I use top quality for critical stuff, and only allow myself to cheap out on stuff that won't cause collateral damage or require a ton of labor to replace if it fails down the road.
 
I know where a w210 wagon is in a pick n pull yard. Did we decide that wagon rear sway bar was a worthwhile swap?
It's semi-unconfirmed at the moment... if you can get the bar without too much trouble it might be worth the experiment. I think the W210 bar is about 1 inch wider, but the bigger concern is if the center of the bar interferes with the fuel hose exiting the tank in the 400E. The H&R E55 bar is just a bit too large to clear. I'd also like to figure out the dimensions of all the 210 bars (there are at least 5 different rear bars) to add to my "124 swaybars" spreadsheet, for reference.

:bbq:
 

If this thread is anything to go by, the 210-326-22-65 rear sway bar found in many w210 models is 18.2mm. The stock 124.034 rear bar is 16mm, right? I would think an 18mm rear bar would actually be a nice upgrade. I wouldn't mind a little bit more oversteer. More fun for hooning.

Jalopy Jungle on State has a 99 E320 wagon (if memory serves), which should have the 210-326-22-65 bar. Maybe I'll drag some dial calipers and tools out there and check it out. If it does indeed measure 18mm, I can probably drop the subframe without too much effort and yank the bar. I assume I'll just need to unbolt the subframe mount bolts, and just let it drop to gain access to the bar. I'm guessing I won't need to mess with the driveshaft or cv axles.
 
The 400E bar is 16mm, the 500E bar is 18mm and that size is a perfect upgrade.

Note that when measuring, first clean the bar, and take measurements in multiple locations. The smallest reading is usually accurate.

To remove at the Jungle, yes, lower the subframe, it only needs to drop 3-6 inches or so - doesn't have to be fully removed. Might be able to loosen the rear mounts and then full remove the bolts from the forward mounts to get enough space to extract it. The part number will be stamped on the bar somewhere.

:banana1:
 
Well, I'm out at the junk yard now. The wagon that was out here last time is gone. There is a 99 E320 4matic sedan with a rear bar that measures 16mm, and a 2001 E430 4matic sedan with a rear bar that measures 17mm. Guess I won't be pulling either of these.
 
Shoot. These are all sedans, correct?

Junkyard #1 must have been Boise and #2 Garden City, per their online inventory checker. Nampa showed a 1998 and 2001. Caldwell shows a 1999. I wish they would show the full model number and not just "E-Class" or "420". Body style (wagon vs sedan) might be asking a lot, eh? :rolleyes:

I don't have EPC access at the moment, I'll have to look up what part number those sedans use.

:scratchchin:
 
Shoot. These are all sedans, correct?

Junkyard #1 must have been Boise and #2 Garden City, per their online inventory checker. Nampa showed a 1998 and 2001. Caldwell shows a 1999. I wish they would show the full model number and not just "E-Class" or "420". Body style (wagon vs sedan) might be asking a lot, eh? :rolleyes:

I don't have EPC access at the moment, I'll have to look up what part number those sedans use.

:scratchchin:
Yup. All sedans. Boise, and Garden City. I'll head out to Nampa here in a bit and see what those are.
 
Ok, made it out to Nampa. There is a 2003 w210 e320 wagon here with the 210-326-22-65 bar. It's 17mm. There's also a 98 E430 sedan here with the same bar.

The 17mm bar is a little bigger than the 034 rear bar, but I'm not sure that it's bigger enough to be worth it.
 
I found a set of OE bushings on Ebay. They were $35 for the pair, coming from Latvia, but I guess I'll have to pay up for NLA parts. The Febi Bilstein version appears to have the Teflon liner in pictures, so I ordered a set of those as well just to see what's up with them.

With lowering springs going in, I'm wondering if I'll need to do something about my rear camber. Is there a kit that is recommended for this? I could fabricate my own from scratch, but by the time I buy the parts I bet I won't be saving much over just buying a kit, if one is available.
 
I found a set of OE bushings on Ebay. They were $35 for the pair, coming from Latvia, but I guess I'll have to pay up for NLA parts. The Febi Bilstein version appears to have the Teflon liner in pictures, so I ordered a set of those as well just to see what's up with them.

With lowering springs going in, I'm wondering if I'll need to do something about my rear camber. Is there a kit that is recommended for this? I could fabricate my own from scratch, but by the time I buy the parts I bet I won't be saving much over just buying a kit, if one is available.
you could get adjustable camber arms from ground control, pretty sure they sell them separate from the whole adjustable kit!
 
CLK wheels are looking sharp! Almost tempting me to grab a set to experience the lightweight + handling improvement remarks that others swear by.

Noted the same NLA for the swaybar bushings and went with a set of Febi from FCPEuro. Will see what quality comes in the mail soon enough.
 
Rear camber is mostly an issue if the ride height is lowered substantially, and you also have very wide wheels/tires (like, 9-10 inches on the 500E). How low are you going?

Best solution I know of for rear camber are the Megan Racing arms, search the forum for details / photos. Avoid anything with Heim joints.

:3gears:
 
Rear camber is mostly an issue if the ride height is lowered substantially, and you also have very wide wheels/tires (like, 9-10 inches on the 500E). How low are you going?

Best solution I know of for rear camber are the Megan Racing arms, search the forum for details / photos. Avoid anything with Heim joints.
I was going however low the H&R springs take it, plus or minus whatever needs to happen to get things level and reasonable with spring pads.
 
Ok, next question. Rear subframe bushings. I've read a bunch on this, but I have to wonder... is there any reason not to go with solid or at least polyurethane mounts? I would think any compliance in the subframe mounting is just an opportunity for unwanted handling characteristics and that any harshness from the suspension should be absorbed by the actual suspension links.

Thoughts?

If there is a good reason not to run solid mounts, what is the best option for new mounts available today? I'm not worried about tools and procedures to replace them. I can handle that. Just trying to figure out what parts to acquire.
 
Ok, next question. Rear subframe bushings. I've read a bunch on this, but I have to wonder... is there any reason not to go with solid or at least polyurethane mounts? I would think any compliance in the subframe mounting is just an opportunity for unwanted handling characteristics and that any harshness from the suspension should be absorbed by the actual suspension links.

Thoughts?

If there is a good reason not to run solid mounts, what is the best option for new mounts available today? I'm not worried about tools and procedures to replace them. I can handle that. Just trying to figure out what parts to acquire.
The only thing i’d do personally if running actual solid mounts, would be to check welds before install, if not reinforce with a few nice beads. that’s just me for peace of mind. sand, bead, powder coat.
 
I'm not sure there is much, if any, benefit from using solid mounts for a car that isn't dedicated to track use. Finding tall-tab OEM forward mounts would be nice, otherwise OEM standard mounts are ok. I'd probably lean towards the aftermarket late-style Sportline mounts vs the standard rear mounts. The standard rears are relatively wimpy for a performance application, the late Sportline is significantly beefier.

:seesaw:
 
Just received the Febi Bilstein sway bar bushings 124-323-56-85. They do indeed have the Teflon liners. Since OE are NLA, I'd say the Febi are the best available option, unless someone knows of a better option that I haven't heard of.

I'm not super optimistic about the OE set I ordered on eBay from Latvia. According to the listing they have like 9 sets available, and after my order was processed they sent me a message saying there will be no tracking for the shipment, and that if I haven't received my order by the advertised arrival date I can request a refund. Not promosing.
 
Were the Febi units repackaged OE with the MB Star & part number embossed? I've never seen an aftermarket bushing with the Teflon liner before.

Got a link to the Latvia vendor? I searched by p/n but couldn't find them at the price you referenced.

:detective:
 
That was the one.

Were the Febi units repackaged OE with the MB Star & part number embossed? I've never seen an aftermarket bushing with the Teflon liner before.
No, it has Febi embossed in the rubber, along with the Febi part number, which is 14950 624. The packaging is marked 124-323-56-85/36.

1000005231.jpg
 
Well, turns out OE front brake rotors for the late 034 are a little difficult to source. My FCP order was supposed to include them, but FCP reached out to inform me that they are on backorder with no estimated availability date.

I tried ordering them from eEuroParts.com, who supposedly had them in stock, and just got a similar email informing me that they were not actually in stock, and they did not know when they'd be available.

eEuroParts offered to ship me a pair of PAGID 355122242 rotors instead. Any opinions on whether I should run the PAGID rotors or if another brand is a better option at this point?
 
Un-freakin-believable... the OE rotors are NLA!! :doh:


FCP shows both Ate and Zimmerperson as available, both allegedly made in Germany. I'd opt for Zimms first and Ate next.

I have a feeling the Hella/Pagid rotor may be made in China, but I don't know for sure.


:runexe:
 
FCP shows both Ate and Zimmerperson as available, both allegedly made in Germany. I'd opt for Zimms first and Ate next.
Yeah, I think Zimmerman is probably a better choice. I'll get a pair of those on the way.

I went ahead and picked up a pair of calipers from Crossroads Towing locally. They appear to be in good shape, so I'll probably just clean them up and run them. If I have any issues I can order remans from RockAuto.
 
Cory, do you know the diameter of the 210 wagon rear bar? And if it has a similar shape as the E55 rear bar?

I'm seeing 210-326-22-65 as the wagon rear bar p/n but it's NLA per MB Classic (link). There appears to be a Sport package version that should be larger diameter, 210-326-23-65, also NLA, also unknown diameter. I found unconfirmed data showing 18mm standard 210 rear, 20mm "Sport" 210 rear. The V8 wagons used 210-326-23-65 as standard rear bar, and 210-326-24-65 for Sports chassis rear bar.

There's an E50/E60 rear bar too, HWA-210-326-01-65! And, of course, also NLA (link).

Pity all the W210 rear bars are NLA too. 😡


View attachment 172949
Here is the picture of the W210 wagon rear bar:

IMG_2399 (1).jpeg
 
More updates. I've spent the last little while working on interior stuff on the 400E. Got the old purple tint all removed. Got all new speakers installed and finally got the stereo all wired up. Man, I wish the prior owner hadn't ripped all the stock stuff out. He made a total mess of things.

I ended up designing and 3d printing adapter rings for all 6 speaker locations so I could fit standard size speakers in all 6 spots. I also dismantled all 6 speaker grilles and replaced the deteriorated foam in each with a perforated cloth meant for speakers.

Got the center console all back together finally. I made the decision to ditch the roll top storage cubby and instead modify it to house a cup holder. Functionally it turned out fine, although the MB tex did not stretch quite how I'd hoped and I'm not happy with the finished look. I'll probably have another go at it later.

I'm hoping to have the interior mostly finished in the next few days, after which I can get the car up on the lift and finally work on the exhaust system.

1000005271.jpg
1000005272.jpg1000005276.jpg
 
Managed to track down another 92 5.0 LH module today. I believe this one should have WOT enrichment. It was a great price so I ordered it. Can anyone confirm that 014-545-18-32 does indeed have WOT enrichment?
 
Man I hate interior work.

I had the engine idling while I was testing a few things and noticed that if I pumped the brake pedal rapidly while idling the engine would start to lope like a cammed race car. I assume this has to do with the brake booster using up its vacuum reserve and becoming effectively a vacuum leak for a moment until I stop pumping the brakes. Has anyone else experienced this? I don't imagine it's anything to be concerned about, but I figured I'd check. I've never had a car do that before.
 
I had the same exact issue. Turned out to be a damaged seal between the booster and the master cylinder. Nothing major to worry about, but replacing this seal is a major PITA because there is basically no room in there.
 
I'm honestly thinking this may be normal behavior. I know that sounds weird, but rapidly pumping the brakes at idle would indeed introduce additional unmetered air into the intake manifold, which would effectively be a vacuum leak. I'm guessing I could replicate it in most cars with a vacuum booster.

It just occurred to me that most of my cars don't actually have vacuum boosters, and the only car I have that runs and has a functional vacuum booster, other than the 400E, is my Jeep, which is in storage. Maybe I'll go fetch it and try it.
 
It is not normal. I have W126 and had another W124 and I couldn't replicate the same behavior no mater how many times I pumped the brakes, only my 400E did that. After replacing that seal, the problem is 100% cured.
 
Well, I hooked up my mityvac and confirmed that the booster is not leaking, and the check valve works correctly. It's a mystery.
 
Still hating interior work. I'm struggling with the dumbest thing right now. I'm trying to assemble the trim and such in the driver's footwell. I'm trying to figure out how to properly affix the black plastic lower dash cover. It had no fasteners in it when I got the car. I can see a stud on the firewall just below the steering column, and there's a hole in the plastic cover that aligns reasonably well with that stud, but the cover is not able to slide back onto the stud far enough to install a standard plastic nut like I would expect should be there. Am I missing something? What does that fastener look like, and is there some trick to installing that cover?
 
That black plastic cover above the pedals is a sick, twisted practical joke by some disgruntled engineer. There hole in the lower tab does go over the stud and there's a round plastic "nut" that attaches to it. Most of the rest will interlock with all the other pieces it butts up against. There's supposed to be 1 or 2 screws towards the front but these are not necessary and can be left out if you don't have them.
 
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