"Top Side" oil extractor that works? (Oil evacuator recommendations)

[Duh_Vinci]

Cheers all!

I want to start doing oil changes on all cars from the top. Since most you folks here are major DIY enthusiasts, what top side oil extractor can you recommend that actually works and holds up to 8.5 quarts so I can do in on one shot?

Regards,
D

 

[JC220]

I have the item linked below. (A sealey 9.5L one)

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-TP6901-Vacuum-Oil-Fluid-Extractor-Manual-9ltr/141362533231

Although you may not get the same brand across the pond im sure harbour fraught would have something similar. There are 2x types- Air operated (from your shop compressor) and manual.

I like the manual pump one since I do not require the air line to operate it. So for example if I want to service a car out on my driveway I can carry it out and not need an air line. The 9l capacity is enough for any MB saloon engine or gearbox oil drain.

Once you get one of these you will never look back trust me! Oil changes are a dream in comparison to jacking up, crawling under and removing the ever growing sized undertrays.

 

[nocfn]

"Top Side" oil extractor that works?

I have used the topsider for 5 years with great success.

Edit

I have used this on 2014, 1994 and 1991 benz, 2005 Tacoma and 2014 dart. No troubles, metal construction, stout container wont topple over.

 

[Duh_Vinci]

That's just it, if I could effectively evacuate the oil from the top, and all 3 MB cars have oil filters accessible at the top, I could avoid dealing with annoying drip pan removal. Joe, the one in the link is precisely what I'm looking for, hand pump version.

There is just seem so much cheap crap out there, I want to find a solid unit that works well and serviceable if needed.

Regards,
D

 

[samiam44]

I've used one from amazon-

Note that the bushing for the change in line size is a junk and you will get an air leak there. I had to seal those details with some sealant- then it worked great. For some newer cars, it would have been great to have alonger tube to go down in the enigine. OM642 required longer,M112? , OM648 verdict is still out.

 

[cole67]

I use a Pela model that was purchased for the boat 25 years ago. 6 liter so does require 2 shots for the 119. Manual pump is most versatile. JC220 is right on- best money you can spend. Heat the oil prior to changing to speed the process.

 

[Duh_Vinci]

I'm considering the EWK unit from https://www.amazon.com/EWK-Pneumati...d=1537130672&sr=1-19&keywords=Fluid+Evacuator It is both, manual pump and pneumatic optioned in one, and from what I can see, it has the actual seals on the connectors that can be changed in time, along with lockable inlet..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=134&v=p_QjEmsAgsg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Az4imbuUBwo

$130, but large capacity...

Regards,
D

 

[Harv]

Uncle Kent has some videos on this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPflVUzVxJ8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65MMnubY4DA

 

[Duh_Vinci]

A friend of mine has the Topsider MVP unit uncle Kent showing, it is excellent, metal construction and efficient. The capacity is the only thing deterring me. But for his cars with under 5quarts it works great.

Regards,
D

 

[Jlaa]

How about this one? It is 9.5L

OEMTOOLS 24397 9.5 Liter Manual Fluid Evacuator, Overflow Shutoff Valve, Dipstick Tube Adapter, Leak Proof Bottom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW393E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4jVNBbY6HDZX7

 

[Duh_Vinci]

How about this one? It is 9.5L

OEMTOOLS 24397 9.5 Liter Manual Fluid Evacuator, Overflow Shutoff Valve, Dipstick Tube Adapter, Leak Proof Bottom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW393E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4jVNBbY6HDZX7

I like it, capacity, serviceable, definitely a contender

Regards,
D

 

[Jlaa]

This one extracts and also dispenses .... thus doing away with having to pour 8.8 liters of motor oil out from the top.

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u0WNBb4KCEREH

 

[gerryvz]

The Griot’s Garage extractor has worked quite well for me during the past 18 years or so...

 

[alabbasi]

I've had this for about 7 years and it works well. You'll need a compressor to pull a vacuum and it will require a few pulls to get all the oil out (pull.. wait until more oil drains into pan.. pull again, etc).
It's built like a steel tank (which is what it is) and allows you to change your oil while wearing a white linen suit.

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html

 

[RicardoD]

I have shop air so I bought one that you hook up to an air hose. No manual pumping. Works great so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300...65278&sr=8-4&keywords=mityvac+fluid+extractor

 

[JC220]

These are all great suggestions! A very useful tool no matter what type you buy. (Manual or Air powered) Obviously the use for extraction is not just limited to motor oil.
Ever discovered an overfilled transmission? Just drop a thin tube down the dipstick and draw out excess fluid. Came across a rounded off transmission drain plug when going in to change the filter and ATF? What usually requires an ATF bath from below can be avoided by vacuuming out the ATF from the dipstick tube first.


Brake Fluid changes are easier too – it takes seconds for it to vac out the reservoir dry so you can fill with fresh fluid then start the flush to the callipers beginning with 100% fresh fluid. Power Steering fluid changes etc too. The only fluid I do not use my extractor for is Coolant and all oils are taken for proper recycling in a 25L jug.


A good tip for using these is to have the oil hot / warm at least – like you would normally change engine oil anyway. The warmer oil vacuums out much faster. And fully insert until the tube bottoms out then pull up again by 1/8 inch say so it takes the oil quicker and doesn’t suck onto the pan!

 

[gerryvz]

Unless you have shop air running all the time, IMHO for something like an oil extraction, it's much easier just to get a manual-pump oil extractor. Same with a bleeder -- much easier to just get one with a manual pump.

Sure you may need to pump the oil extractor a couple of times to get the oil out, but dozen or so up-and-down strokes shouldn't put too much of a strain on one's arm or heart muscles.

 

[gsxr]

Here's some 15-liter extractors:
https://www.extoil.us/collections/15-liter-oil-extractors

I've never used their extractors, but I have been happy with their transmission filler (required for Mercedes 722.9 and most newer ZF trans that require pumping fluid up through the drain port).
https://www.extoil.us/products/6-liter-professional-transmission-fluid-pump

 

[Jlaa]

The Griot’s Garage extractor has worked quite well for me during the past 18 years or so...

I bought the Griots one around 1999 as well! I was quite satisifed with it but then passed it on to my bro-in-law when I moved cross-country to live in a place without a garage for several years. My only criticism was that it was always a pain to pour the oil out of the extractor into empty plastic milk jugs .... opportunity for drips and spills. Thats why the one that extracts and dispenses is intriguing to me.

 

[kwontumspeed]

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_u0WNBb4KCEREH

I've used this one for almost 10 years. The pump has now failed and it's $65 alone to replace. I'm taking it apart to see if the root cause can be repaired (o-ring?).
The only complaint are the tubes, the grommets used to reduce the main tube to one fitting the dip stick chamber get loose over the years. Probably a way to McGyver it but I haven't tried. This is more of an OCD thing as it still held a vacuum.

I'm almost leaning towards trying another brand. The OEM Tools tubing connectors seem a lot more robust.

 

[jhodg5ck]

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-gallon-oil-extractor-46149.html


I'm on my 5th one of these in 10 years...but I might use them a bit more then y'all would..;-)

Get a 20% off coupon and y'all will be rocking.

...Does need a compressor to make it work though.


jono

 

[LWB250]

I’ve toyed with purchasing the HF extractor for a number of reasons, but my space is at a premium, which has held me back.

When my two Topsiders got their pump parts lost during a cross country move, I kept the containers for storage but bought the two gallon version of this:

http://liquivac.com/models/

Basic, simple, small, and enough capacity to hold an M112 or M119 oil change. I can store in it or pour the contents into one of my Topsider cans for future transport to my waste oil place. The Topsider containers deep at the bottom seams, so even as storage containers they’re not great.

Dan

 

[gerryvz]

I use 5-gallon buckets (Chevron DELO 400 buckets work great) for oil storage until I recycle. Never leak a drop. Two of them are perfect and worth a few MB oil changes of storage.

 

[LWB250]

I use 5-gallon buckets (Chevron DELO 400 buckets work great) for oil storage until I recycle. Never leak a drop. Two of them are perfect and worth a few MB oil changes of storage.

Yeah, that would work for me if I had some, but the Topsider cans give me a total of about five gallons of storage, which is way more than I need. My cars' maintenance schedules are staggered pretty well so I rarely bump into a lack of storage capacity. Because they're low profile, the Topsider cans fit under a stainless steel wire shelf I have in the garage. A five gallon bucket (or the HF oil extractor) would take up valuable space in my garage that I don't have right now. I could make room but it's just one more thing to stumble over or have to move around...

Dan

 

[Jlaa]

Re: What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

I purchased the mightyvac 7201 earlier this week from Amazon. It is made in Taiwan - which makes me feel much better than buying stuff made in China. Anyways - the short and skinny is —- I like it better than the Griots one I had 20 years ago, primarily because it extracts as well as dispenses. The dispensing action is perfect for putting the used motor oil into the 4.73 L jugs of now-empty-mobil-one-15W-50 that I buy from Walmart.


The pumping mechanism is separate from the oil reservoir, and the black switch - up for dispensing, down for extraction. I was able to extract just over 8L of oil from my car. 10 pumps are all I needed to extract the cold 15W50 - it took about 20 min. The machine is well made with high quality quick fittings where the machine has the tube inserted. There is even a retractable foot stabilizer.

 

[kwontumspeed]

Re: What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

The pump top is of different color than mine - which failed after 10 years. So I wonder if it's an improved unit (you'd hope so after 10 years). This makes me want to go ahead and buy it again instead of replacing pump only on mine.

My guess at root cause is lack of maintenance. I suggest every year or so keep the pump shaft clean and lubed. Seems like my failure was the coating on the shaft started to deteriorated contaminating the internals of the pump.

 

[HowardK]

I also use the Mityvac as jlaa. The only disadvantage is that one can get too complacent and not pay attention to motor mounts, flex discs and bushings which you would inspect if the car was lifted.

 

[Duh_Vinci]

Re: What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

I purchased the mightyvac 7201...

Thanks again for your feedback on this particular model, "Santa" brought one over for Christmas. Just used it for the first time: Where has this tool been all my life???

Warmed up the car for 10 min, pumped, walked away, grabbed some food, 20min of leisure time, fully evacuated!!! I don't think I could ever go back to the old ways, specially with cars that have filter at the top of the engine bay. What a great tool! So easy to pour it out too!!!

Regards,
D

 

[JC220]

Whilst I do still use my top side oil extractor I have been using it alot less than I did before.

Check out the sump contents left over after I extracted this dud m119 my S500 used to have:

Granted I was pulling the engine. But the extractor was finished and not pulling any more "oil". I presume the sludge clogged the thin tube intake. Now if that were a conventional oil change then I would have spotted this large QTY on the dipstick (hopefully before pouring new oil in).

So I prefer to drop the sump plug and watch exactly what drains out now. Or at least drop the sump every second oil change IMO. I'm not saying you will find anything like this mess but at least if there is fine metal shine etc you will see it by conventional drain pan.

That is one of the only downsides of an oil extractor. You dont really get to see the oil draining and deposits, foreign bodies or sludge that might otherwise fall out of a sump plug may not go up the vac tube.

 

[gerryvz]

Looks like that inferior North Sea crude oil base stock to me. You need to be using good old West Texas Intermediate or Pennsylvania crude-based oils. 🛢

 

[JC220]

Going to be installing magnetic sump plugs too at each oil service. M12 x 1.5 Fits most MBs including the m119

 

[gerryvz]

I didn’t know that Uncle Kent ships internationally !!

 

[Kyiv]

I purchased the mightyvac 7201 earlier this week

Thanks again for your feedback on this particular model, "Santa" brought one over for Christmas.

Gents, still positive experience? There's "OEM Tools" device on Amazon that's majorlyoutselling the Mytivac 7201

 

[Jlaa]

Still lovin’ it!!!

 

[Duh_Vinci]

Absolutely love it still!

 

[LWB250]

For what it's worth, I caved and bought the HF oil extractor that Jono recommended. At $150 or thereabouts with coupons it was a bit of a spend, but I will say that having owned it for about 4-6 months now I have used it numerous times and I'm quite pleased with it. If there was a complaint, and this is a minor one, there needs to be a way to store all of the little adapters they supply along with the oil tubes. I'll probably never use any of them, but I don't want to drop them in a drawer only to have to go searching when the time comes that I do need one.

I may break down and put better wheels on it, too, as the ones that came on it aren't sleeved at the axles and are kind of sloppy.

 

[Kyiv]

@LWB250, I looked at it, but it wan't clear if it's pneumatic only or manual too. I went with Jlaa-approved Mytivac 7201. Amazon has at a $100 and "used, like new", which mean it's open-box item at $90. I bought "used"

 

[LWB250]

@LWB250, I looked at it, but it wan't clear if it's pneumatic only or manual too. I went with Jlaa-approved Mytivac 7201. Amazon has at a $100 and "used, like new", which mean it's open-box item at $90. I bought "used"

I'm all about Amazon Warehouse for stuff like this. Good buy!

The HF extractor is pneumatic. It uses a venturi to create a vacuum in the tank. It takes a pretty small compressor, as I first tried it out with my 2.5HP 30 gallon compressor assuming that it would be inefficient, as most venturi vacuum systems are. Surprisingly, I was able to use my little portable Ingersoll-Rand compressor to charge it with minimal effort, too.

 

[Kyiv]

Re: What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

I purchased the mightyvac 7201 earlier this week from Amazon. It is made in Taiwan - which makes me feel much better than buying stuff made in China. Anyways - the short and skinny is —- I like it better than the Griots one I had 20 years ago, primarily because it extracts as well as dispenses. The dispensing action is perfect for putting the used motor oil into the 4.73 L jugs of now-empty-mobil-one-15W-50 that I buy from Walmart.


The pumping mechanism is separate from the oil reservoir, and the black switch - up for dispensing, down for extraction. I was able to extract just over 8L of oil from my car. 10 pumps are all I needed to extract the cold 15W50 - it took about 20 min. The machine is well made with high quality quick fittings where the machine has the tube inserted. There is even a retractable foot stabilizer.

If you try to remember, was it days or hours since your last drive, before oil extraction? It's been a few hours after a drive and I'm trying out exact same device, and per gradations on the plastic cistern, I've only managed to extract 6.75 liters and now it's slurping air from the oil pan. My oil level was smack in the middle of the dipstick. End of the tube reached the bottom of the oil pan, filter and oil inlet cap removed.

 

[gsxr]

That's why I usually find... drain ~7 qts out, out 8 back in, level reads the same.

Remember to change the filter before draining/vacuuming. (ooops, sounds like you did that, nevermind!)

 

[Jlaa]

Hmmmmm it was weeks before my last drive when I last extracted 8L. “Cold” for me is an ambient temp of 55-65F.

 

[Kyiv]

That's why I usually find... drain ~7 qts out, out 8 back in, level reads the same.

Dave, do I understand you accurately: you drain 7 quarts out, put 8 in and the level reads the same?

I raised the car slightly (wheels barely off the ground) via a differential and managed another 100-150 ml. With filter and oil filter housing I managed a total of, let's say, 7 liters even.

I remember from the owner's manual that a difference between "min" and "max" on a dipstick is 2.1 quarts, so smack in the middle is about 1 quart less than the TOTAL oil capacity of 8.5 quarts... that is if "max" on a dipstick corresponds to 8,5 quarts in the sump...

 

[gsxr]

Pretty much, yep. I gave up trying to explain it. My theory is the oil filter is a TARDIS, and is bigger on the inside, holding more oil than physically possible. Now, I'm happy when I pour in 8 quarts and the level is in the middle of the dipstick. Good 'nuff.

 

[dionphaneuf]

I've done too many messy oil changes and used MittyVacs at work too many times to not just buy one myself. Sadly too late for Christmas but maybe I'll cave and buy one in a few months. Sounds like it's kosher to use the same unit for ATF and other fluids too provided you're not using it to dispense.

 

[Jlaa]

Pretty much, yep. I gave up trying to explain it. My theory is the oil filter is a TARDIS, and is bigger on the inside, holding more oil than physically possible. Now, I'm happy when I pour in 8 quarts and the level is in the middle of the dipstick. Good 'nuff.

This is the answer. TARDIS. Good enough. There’s always going to be old oil mixed in with new oil anyways...

 

[LWB250]

If you try to remember, was it days or hours since your last drive, before oil extraction? It's been a few hours after a drive and I'm trying out exact same device, and per gradations on the plastic cistern, I've only managed to extract 6.75 liters and now it's slurping air from the oil pan. My oil level was smack in the middle of the dipstick. End of the tube reached the bottom of the oil pan, filter and oil inlet cap removed.

I just did a change on my youngest's W210. Start to finish with engine temperature above 40C (it had been sitting after being driven for about an hour) took under 10 minutes and drew nearly 8 quarts according to the sight glass on the extractor. Oil filter was removed before extraction began, a very important step in the process.

We also used the extractor to suck power steering fluid out, as we'll do a "rotation" change on it over the next week or so. Suck the reservoir dry - refill with fresh fluid. Lather, rinse, repeat....

Dan

 

[Kyiv]

I've done too many messy oil changes and used MittyVacs at work too many times to not just buy one myself. Sadly too late for Christmas but maybe I'll cave and buy one in a few months. Sounds like it's kosher to use the same unit for ATF and other fluids too provided you're not using it to dispense.

Indeed, with 6.8-6.9 liters out and 7.5 liters in, the oil level is smack in the middle of the dipstick.

I have a more interesting result from the oil change though. I had an engine ticking/tapping develop at idle (ONLY once coolant warmed up) during the first year of the ownership, back in 2015. It progressively gotten worse, where I could hear it standing up to 20 feet away from the car. In late 2019 I replaced plastic camshaft oilers with metal ones. None of the plastic tubes had their bottoms popped, but ticking/tapping at idle was cured. Sometime this summer (2020) I noticed that's ticking/tapping is back. Heard at idle only, every time. Mobil 5w-50 (229.1&229.3) was in the sump. Eventually I changed oil to x2 quarts of 5w40 (229.5) that I had left over and about x6 quarts of 0w40 (229.5). Ticking/tapping was unaffected. I figured I'll try Liqui Moly 10W40 with Mos2 pre-mixed in from the factory..... and it P-H-A-K-I-N-G worked Thus far, ticking/tapping gone. As in g-o-n-e

I don't believe in magic and I know that MoS2 is a diddly-squat type of oil additive. My hand wouldn't raise to add it to an oil, but since it was pre-mixed in from the factory I went for it. My cerebrum tells me that my auditory cortex is full of shit, but....can it (auditory cortex) be so gravely mistaken? Do we have any closeted MoS2 users that notice/ed a difference?

 

[gerryvz]

Thicker oil = M119 like-y.

Simple as that.

 

[Kyiv]

Thicker oil = M119 like-y.

Simple as that.

I had 5w-50 with a couple of thousand miles on it when I noticed that ticking and tapping were back

 

[gsxr]

I'm with Gerry. It could be related to viscosity, and the small bump to 10W-40 could have been what did the trick. The MoS2 probably had no effect on the ticking.

I know oil companies like to point out that the "W" number means nothing on a hot engine, but... there was a similar phenomenon on the Mercedes OM60x diesel engines. Those have lifter tick issues, and sometimes the lifters do need replacement. But multiple people reported ticking after a switch to the then-new-and-shiny Mobil-1 0W-40, and the ticking vanished after simple switching back to a thicker oil (usually 5W-40 or 15W-40). We are fortunate the M119 lifters have a low failure rate as it's like $700 for 32 new ones plus assorted seals/gaskets, and a TON of labor.