-
Hi Guest !
Welcome to the 500Eboard forum.
Since its founding in late 2008, 500Eboard has become the leading resource on the Internet for all things related to the Mercedes-Benz 500E and E500. In recent years, we have also expanded to include the 400E and E420 models, which are directly related to the 500E/E500.
We invite you to browse and take advantage of the information and resources here on the site. If you find helpful information, please register for full membership, and you'll find even more resources available. Feel free to ask questions, and make liberal use of the "Search" function to find answers.
We hope you will become an active contributor to the community!
Sincerely,
500Eboard Management
Transmission diagnosis document
- Thread starter gerryvz
- Start date
Here goes another AT service doc. I found after struggling with mine..It has all service parameters and values as well as service/test procedures..
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/ ... repair.pdf
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/ ... repair.pdf
Good info here Gerry. Has any one worked with the check balls and valve body plate to firm up shifts with these units? Should be doable to remove a specific ball or enlarge a couple specific holes in the valve body plate to give these units a more positive shift. Just don't know where as of yet so anybody worked with these units to "shift kit" them?? Looking hard at section 27.51 should be some answers there as to how to do this.
Also working with governor weights and springs could tune shift points to hold gears a little longer one would think.
The more I hear you talk about your car Richard, the more I think it's messed up. Not messed up tragically mind you, just probably nothing adjusted to optimum. When that car is set up correctly it holds gear an ample time and the shifts are generally positive, but not harsh. And the engines don't have big nasty flat spots in various lower ranges. And yes, many of us know a bunch of ways to firm up or soften individual shifts if required. You're going to have to get over this general direction one of these days and let us check this thing out for you. There is a very slim, but not zero chance that I will be in Birmingham next month for a Benz club thingy. If so, I'll see you then...
I think you are likely on to it pretty well. Just got a correct set of Bosh Plugs from FCP today along with the PS gaskets so tomorrow will likely get to the plugs then pull the caps and rotors and see what it all looks like with the ignition system. Just found that the throttle cable is broken right at the plastic adjuster. Looked fine until I started poking around looking at the possibility of doing a adjustment on the trans pressure cable and I found it.
This thing with slicing up my left hand has me way behind on doing any work and I have had to step back and just drive it as is.
I finally got the stitches out of my hand on this last Wednesday after two weeks so as soon as things heal enough for me to use both hands to work I will dive into this thing and sort some of these issues out.
First order is replacing the plugs and looking hard at the caps/rotors hopefully tomorrow. Then will be replacing the throttle cable and pulling the PS res to fix that short line leak.
For several years the former original owners had been taking the car to one of the quick oil places that also does minor repairs. They have some really good mechanics but most of the other guys are clueless. The PS reservoir for example was almost full to the very top with God knows what type of gunk that looked like strong coffee. I pulled all the black gluck out changed the filter and and refilled it to the proper level with Royal Purple synthetic and if it has leaked any since I can't tell it. Will run it a few more days then pull it all out and refill with a clean batch when I do the short line repair. Also have to get the left tie rod replaced and the alignment done next week.
Any advice on fishing that throttle cable out from under the brake booster to the firewall as it looks really tight in there?
Also how does the rear of the base of the Air cleaner assembly release? So far have just snapped it loose from the front and lifted it up for a look around but not removed the entire assembly. Does it just pull straight up or slide forward and off? Seem on pretty tight so been a while likely since it's been off.
Last edited:
1992 E500 ; ) takes about 2 seconds to engage reverse gear, solidly. Let me know if this is normal and acceptable.
Mileage is 144 K, original Canadian market car. Do I need to add anything ?
Mileage is 144 K, original Canadian market car. Do I need to add anything ?
Your reverse clutches are likely on the way out and will need replacement at some point. For that the gearbox will need to come out and at that point it makes sense to take care of other items as well or even consider a full refurb.
TimL is correct. If it's a full 2 seconds, the reverse clutches may be worn, OR there's a leak at the seals related to the reverse piston causing a delay in pressure buildup to engage reverse. Either way, the trans would need to come out to fix this. If you can pull the trans yourself, you can also re-seal it and replace the reverse clutches yourself. Parts cost is relatively low, but it's a ton of labor. Otherwise it's a big $$$$ item to pay a shop to pull it and install a rebuilt trans (10-12 hours labor or more, plus at least $2k for the rebuilt trans, plus fluids/supplies/etc... could easily be $4k USD or more).
HOWEVER: When was the fluid & filter last changed, and what type of fluid was used? If not recent, I'd consider trying a full ATF change (preferably to synthetic) and see if there is any difference. Also check the existing fluid for color and odor... should be red (not brown) and not have a burned odor, although if it smells like gear oil that's ok (newer fluids have a distinct odor). And if the pan is dropped, check for excess swarf or clutch disc debris. Fluid should be changed every 30kmi (half that with city driving) and the converter must also be drained.
Search the forum for more info...
HOWEVER: When was the fluid & filter last changed, and what type of fluid was used? If not recent, I'd consider trying a full ATF change (preferably to synthetic) and see if there is any difference. Also check the existing fluid for color and odor... should be red (not brown) and not have a burned odor, although if it smells like gear oil that's ok (newer fluids have a distinct odor). And if the pan is dropped, check for excess swarf or clutch disc debris. Fluid should be changed every 30kmi (half that with city driving) and the converter must also be drained.
Search the forum for more info...
Very kind, both of you. I will speak to the Benz repair shop ( one man ) and get back to you with new info. Take care, be safe.
Good morning. After checking with the repair shop ( mentioned above ), it was confirmed that the transmission oil/filter was NOT changed in 2019, when the automobile was last serviced. A comment from the repair shop was that the factory specs. DO NOT call for synthetic oil in the transmission. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. You may question the service interval, and rightly so, however the vehicle in question is in my collection and not used on a daily/weekly basis. Stay safe and be well.
The factory specs did not require synthetic oil in the transmission, however synthetic was formally approved by MB's in the early 1990's.
Click here, see highlight at bottom of page 2. That document is dated 1993.
Note that ATF does not require changing based on time, it is based on miles and type of use (normal vs severe).
Click here, see highlight at bottom of page 2. That document is dated 1993.
Note that ATF does not require changing based on time, it is based on miles and type of use (normal vs severe).
Personally, I would not use synthetic transmission fluid unless the entire transmission was rebuilt/externally resealed, and the transmission fluid was being added as a "first fill" after that work was done. If the transmission previously used non-synthetic fluid, I would keep using non-synthetic fluid (DEX III/IV) and then change it at a 25,000-mile interval.
If using non-synthetic fluid, I would change at 15kmi (~24kkm) intervals with normal service, and more frequently with severe service. Yes that is more often than MB specs but IME, non-synthetic struggles to reach the MB mileage / km limits.
I would concur with this. I had non-synthetic fluid go bad at 25K miles some years ago, although the factory change interval is 30K. This is why I recommend a shortened interval. I think 15K is too short, but the 20-25K range should be just fine, as long as a name-brand ATF Dex 3/4 is used.
Thank you very much for your kind and generous responses. Stay safe and be well.
When I try to open these documents it comes up with pages of hieroglyphics (original code?). Also W124 performance site remains blocked by VPN. I’m sure there’s a lot of good info in these sites, I just can’t access it!
It's definitely your computer settings, as I am able to download the posted PDF either directly to my computer and open it in Acrobat or Apple Preview, or open it directly in my browser. Nothing wrong with the attachments.
Hrmm. It may be a DDG issue (or, VPN+DDG) . Standard browsers don't generate errors, either without VPN or via my employer's VPN.
FYI My VPN works and has always worked for over a year on this site. There is a constant battle between browser and internet providers with VPN providers. VPNs want to secure your browsing so create ways to do that. The IP wants to not secure your info while browsing so they re-create their code which bypasses the VPN ability. Then the VPN folks re-create... and so and on and so on.
I am on a PC with the latest iteriation of windows and using Surfshark as a VPN. I was able to download the index immediately.
I am on a PC with the latest iteriation of windows and using Surfshark as a VPN. I was able to download the index immediately.
