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w124 E500E Non Standard wheel picture thread.Post your pics
- Thread starter lowman
- Start date
Hi Jeff,
Thanks for sharing these pictures. In the attached picture could you confirm your wheel and tyre specs?
Hello. New here. I have a ‘93 500E (as of three days ago). I am trying to find the 18” Evo II Machined finish wheels that are on this E60 in this article: The Mercedes-Benz E60 AMG Is Still A Super Exclusive Super Sedan. Looks like they might be “NEEZ”, however I don’t really know. Any help would be much appreciated. Also, if this is the incorrect forum, I apologize. Thanks!
Factory Evo II wheels are only available in 17". There is an 18" replica made by NEEZ in Japan, these are still available new, but plan on ~$4k/set delivered to USA. @Jlaa posted some details recently including exact pricing. If you love that look and want 18", those are super duper nice wheels. Keep in mind you can also get a set of full-custom wheels from iForged or HRE for similar money, so shop around a bit before plunking down $5k-$6k total with new Michelins.
Congrats on the purchase, btw, and welcome to the forum! Have any photos of your new 500E? Was it listed in the classifieds here? You can start an OWNER thread with some pics and info.
Thank you for the quick response. I searched all of the posts from @Jlaa and I didn’t see one about the wheels recently. I’ll search again.
I bought it from a dealer in Massachusetts. Silver/Black with 72k miles. I’ll post some more pics once I get it cleaned up and registered.
I prefer OEM look or close to it so paying $4k might be ok. Although I am concerned about increasing the unsprung weight and ruining the near perfect ride.
I have had many many BMWs of various generations. Porsches and Audis as well. This is only the second Mercedes-Benz I have owned. (I had a 1997 e320 in 1999).
This is a bucket list car for me, for sure. All it needs are new non-plastic headlights, the wheels and for the ASR/ABS warning lights to stop coming on.
I bought it from a dealer in Massachusetts. Silver/Black with 72k miles. I’ll post some more pics once I get it cleaned up and registered.
I prefer OEM look or close to it so paying $4k might be ok. Although I am concerned about increasing the unsprung weight and ruining the near perfect ride.
I have had many many BMWs of various generations. Porsches and Audis as well. This is only the second Mercedes-Benz I have owned. (I had a 1997 e320 in 1999).
This is a bucket list car for me, for sure. All it needs are new non-plastic headlights, the wheels and for the ASR/ABS warning lights to stop coming on.
NEEZ Euro-Six Wheel Availability - Q1/2021 (Updated since Q1/2017) | Wheels and Tires
I wanted to explore the possibility of buying a spare wheel for my car, which currently has NEEZ Euro Six in sizes F: 18x9.0 ET+26 R: 18x9.5 ET+28 mounted on it. Unfortunately, NEEZ no longer makes the Euro-Six in this exact size, although they do make them in a slightly different size now...
www.500eboard.co
Thank you!
This was four years ago. I’m hoping they still make them. I’ll email them now.
This was four years ago. I’m hoping they still make them. I’ll email them now.
I know the pandemic has dragged on an all but q1/2021 is not really four years ago.
BTW they don’t make them anymore. However, they are selling existing inventory AFAICT.
Ah, the Copley car! I remember that one. It looked really nice in the photos.
18's will make the ride a bit firmer, but may still meet your requirements. There might still be a few of the 17" factory Evos left at the MB Classic Center if you had any interest in those; a bit cheaper, bit narrower, and painted silver instead of clearcoat over machine finish.
The correct 500E-specific Euro headlights have been NLA for several years, and new/NOS lamps are selling for $2k-$3k/set when they appear. There were a couple of sets posted at ~$5k but those aren't selling. They had been <$1k when last available (MB dropped the price to dump inventory). This isn't a straightforward upgrade, the non-500E lights are visibly different and don't look right, and all Euro-spec lights use different wipers and some of the wiper components are NLA new. Wiper delete is an option with a blank panel, if you don't like the wipers. I'd consider new plastic lenses (available and inexpensive) if the old ones are faded or cracked, but they look pretty good in the Copley photos.
Given the asking price of the car, Copley should fix that for you, no questions asked. If the accelerator pedal feels weird (no action first half of travel) when the lights come on, the car is going into limp mode. Search the forum, or post a new thread in the diagnostics/troubleshooting section. It's DIY repairable if you can turn a wrench, but you'll need to pull fault codes to narrow down what component is causing the warning lights.
Copley is 100% taking care of it. They have been fantastic. I can’t say enough positive things about the experience with them.
I don’t want to take up this forum on the warning lamp topic. But I will say I have searched here and there are many many things that could cause this issue.
The car is not in limp home mode. It drives perfectly. Wiring harness is new and Copley replaced the brake light switch and thought it was resolved. My money is on a wheel sensor since the lights don’t come on until the car is in motion.
Anyway, thanks again for all of the responses.
I don’t want to take up this forum on the warning lamp topic. But I will say I have searched here and there are many many things that could cause this issue.
The car is not in limp home mode. It drives perfectly. Wiring harness is new and Copley replaced the brake light switch and thought it was resolved. My money is on a wheel sensor since the lights don’t come on until the car is in motion.
Anyway, thanks again for all of the responses.
Then there is hope! I’ll let you know what they say.I know the pandemic has dragged on an all but q1/2021 is not really four years ago.
BTW they don’t make them anymore. However, they are selling existing inventory AFAICT.
Good luck! The exchange rate has been moving in your favor .... but increased shipping costs may unfortunately nullify that savings.
So far the only response I have received is from a company called Hodoor Performance. I believe they are in Russia. They said they can no longer get the wheels, but they can make them. I'm not sure how I feel about that. Has anyone heard of these guys or had any experience with them? I attached what they sent me.
Just FYI, you have to send them an email in Japanese. Use Google translate if you cannot speak Japanese. Sending them an email in English will not work.
AH! That may be the disconnect...
Ahh.... In Japanese. I just tried that. I'll let you know.
It pains me to say this, as these are my peeps, but I would not buy any wheels from that part of the world just yet. Lots of new companies make good looking aftermarket wheels, but unless they have a TUV certification, I personally would not buy them. This is why I’m on my second set of HRE wheels. @Jlaa Do Neez wheels have a TUV certification?
They do not, but they seem to be JWL certified.
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Hmmm. A while ago, I recall reading that a JWL test is performed by the wheel manufacturer themselves, instead of independent testing. A truly certified wheel first requires your own equipment certified, then perform your own in-house testing using the certification group standards. HRE wheels go through this process on regular basis, as this is not a one time thing. So it sounds like JWL is a testing standard, whereas TUV is a certification by an outside testing group.
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I am not well educated on wheel certifications, but I believe many aftermarket wheels in the USA are built to JWL standards, but not actually tested since one doesn’t need JWL certification to sell in the USA.
In Japan, wheels that are sold must be not only built to JWL standards BUT ALSO TESTED by the 3rd party VIA (Vehicle Independent Agency?) to ensure those wheels meet the standard —- or else they cannot be sold.
NEEZ responded to me. They have them in stock. Waiting on Pricing.
This was the translation:
size Front 18 × 8.5 +23 5/11 2 × 2
Rear 18 × 9.5 +25 5/1 12 × 2
Fastening bolt
size M12 x P1.5 60/27 x 20
I'm not sure all of it translated well.
This was the translation:
size Front 18 × 8.5 +23 5/11 2 × 2
Rear 18 × 9.5 +25 5/1 12 × 2
Fastening bolt
size M12 x P1.5 60/27 x 20
I'm not sure all of it translated well.
Yep, that is what I bought in March. That’s 5/112 (5lugs and 112 bolt circle). This is “hair line polish” correct?
I’m not sure. Waiting for a photo.
OK. Just to be clear, because I was dealing with international communications in a non-native language through Google translate, I took extra care to put Ino-san at ease - including being extra polite, addressing him formally, and including a picture of myself and my automobile and other effects to let him know that I was serious.
The transaction was completed via wire transfer, which, of course, is very risky ..... unless you can build some trust / rapport beforehand.
Basically - communicate as if you were Japanese, not American.
Thanks. I will do the same.
I am making progress.
Josh
Josh
Thank you for your help
I received an inquiry
I will inform you of the price
① Size Front 18 × 8.5 +23 5/112 Unit price ¥ 85,360 × 2 = Subtotal ¥ 170,720
② Rear 18 × 9.5 +25 5/112 Unit price ¥ 87,120 × 2 = Subtotal ¥ 174,240
③ Fastening bolt M12 x P1.5 60/27 Unit price ¥ 693 x 20 = Subtotal ¥ 13,860
④ Shipping: Japan → United States Unit price ¥ 22,000 x 4 = Subtotal ¥ 88,000
① Subtotal + ② Subtotal + ③ Subtotal + ④ Subtotal = Total ¥ 446,820 [~$3900 USD]
Please make the transfer in Japanese Yen
Use airmail for transportation
Will be delivered to your home
Shipping costs are currently rising worldwide. We hope you understand.
Please consider
Needs Nagoya Co., Ltd.
Ino
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Paid for and getting ready to be shipped. I'll send photos once I receive them. Thanks again everyone for your assistance.
Does this count?
Thanks. But there is a clicking sound from the front right wheel. Does that mean the lugs are too long?
@azjtravels, They look great! I'm sure you will find out what the click is. Jlaa should be able to confirm the lug bolt lengths for you.
Take Care
Take Care
How long are the lug bolts and how many turns do they go into the hub?
It would be surprising if the front lug bolts are interfering with anything ---- there is a LOT OF ROOM in the front for the lug bolts to go past the hub.
The rears do not have much room because the rear lug bolts will interfere w/ the parking brake ---- but the fronts have a lot of room.
FWIW - I am not able to confirm lug bolt sizes, unfortuantely, as I do not have my set of NEEZ-circa-2021 installed on the car. The set of wheels that I have installed on the car are NEEZ-circa-2014 and those front wheels, at 9" wide, are 0.5" wider than the 8.5" wide front wheels that one can purchase in 2021.
Specs for the front wheels in AZJTRAVELS post show 8.5 et 23. If I understand correctly the same post shows 60mm lug bolts for the front and 27mm for the rear. There is lots of room behind the front hubs but I suspect one or more bolts may be contacting the splash shield which has a small hump located at about the same circumference as the lug bolts.
If you can get the wheel off the ground it would be easy to check by backing off each lug bolt one by one until the clicking stops.
drew
If you can get the wheel off the ground it would be easy to check by backing off each lug bolt one by one until the clicking stops.
drew
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This. ^^^
Are you sure it's the FRONT wheel clicking?
Also, are those Pilot 4 A/S tires? Smooth at speed? The wheels look fantastic - congrats!
I’m going to dig into it this morning. I am not 100% sure it’s the front. I’ll lift each corner and rotate by hand. I’ll let you know what I find.
They are PS4 A/S. Only drove four miles so.
They are PS4 A/S. Only drove four miles so.
It’s the rear.
Hmmmm. How many turns do the bolts go into the rear hubs?
I have 18x9.5 ET+28 14R ball seat rear wheels currently on the car. I am using some OTIS in LA bolts in the rear that I cut down to 32-33mm shaft length.
You have 18x9.5ET+25 cone seat rear wheels on the rear in your car. I do not know how NEEZ gets the additional offset on the ET+25 wheels, but if we assume that the wheel mounting flange area is the same thickness as the ET+28 wheels or thicker, that would suggest that your bolts, at less than 30mm shaft length, do not need any shortening? Interesting.
Try to count the num of turns the bolts go into the hub before you grind anything.
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I know several folks here count the turns to get proper shank length.
Another way is to measure how much of the bolt shank sticks out the backside of the wheels. I learned this from an Otis tech a few years back, 17mm to 20mm sticking out the backside of the wheel is what they recommended for any Mercedes, (about 3/4"), that is what I have always used as a guide, and it's never been wrong.
With the wheel off the car, hold one of your test bolts firmly in place, and simply measure the shank sticking out the backside of the wheel..
If the measurement is more than 20mm you need a shorter shank to fall into the 17 to 20 range, if shorter that 17, you need a shank longer to fall into the 17-20 zone. foolproof, and simple addition or subtraction gets you to a proper length.
With that measurement method, it's easy math to calculate the correct bolt lengths for any particular wheel, (IE if you measure 30mm sticking out the backside of the wheel, you need to buy bolts 10mm to 13 mm shorter than your test measurement bolt. really easy
Alternately, if you get 4 turns, or 9 turns on the test bolt, how does that accurately translate to the correct length you should buy?
If 6 plus is the right place to be for a minimum length, how many turns is too much? I haven't seen this posted anywhere.
As far as what to do if you don't get 6 plus turns. I wild guess would be 6 turns = 17mm, or 2,83 mm per turn, apply that to 20mm max length and the calculator says 7 turns is 19.81mm.
Or you could simply measure the backside shank sticking out...
The only place in the world I know of where turns of a screw are used to commonly describe length is in lumber. Old sawmills used 1/4" per full turn of the cutting depth adjustment, which is still used in labeling some lumber today, A "five-quarter", ( 5/4), square trim piece is 1-1/4" square, where every full turn of the cutting depth adjustment on the saw mill moved the blade .25".
I prefer a simple measurement in mm.
Otis sends you a free 6" scale when you purchase bolts from them, it makes this shank length calculation very easy to do.
Just a thought...
Another way is to measure how much of the bolt shank sticks out the backside of the wheels. I learned this from an Otis tech a few years back, 17mm to 20mm sticking out the backside of the wheel is what they recommended for any Mercedes, (about 3/4"), that is what I have always used as a guide, and it's never been wrong.
With the wheel off the car, hold one of your test bolts firmly in place, and simply measure the shank sticking out the backside of the wheel..
If the measurement is more than 20mm you need a shorter shank to fall into the 17 to 20 range, if shorter that 17, you need a shank longer to fall into the 17-20 zone. foolproof, and simple addition or subtraction gets you to a proper length.
With that measurement method, it's easy math to calculate the correct bolt lengths for any particular wheel, (IE if you measure 30mm sticking out the backside of the wheel, you need to buy bolts 10mm to 13 mm shorter than your test measurement bolt. really easy
Alternately, if you get 4 turns, or 9 turns on the test bolt, how does that accurately translate to the correct length you should buy?
If 6 plus is the right place to be for a minimum length, how many turns is too much? I haven't seen this posted anywhere.
As far as what to do if you don't get 6 plus turns. I wild guess would be 6 turns = 17mm, or 2,83 mm per turn, apply that to 20mm max length and the calculator says 7 turns is 19.81mm.
Or you could simply measure the backside shank sticking out...
The only place in the world I know of where turns of a screw are used to commonly describe length is in lumber. Old sawmills used 1/4" per full turn of the cutting depth adjustment, which is still used in labeling some lumber today, A "five-quarter", ( 5/4), square trim piece is 1-1/4" square, where every full turn of the cutting depth adjustment on the saw mill moved the blade .25".
I prefer a simple measurement in mm.
Otis sends you a free 6" scale when you purchase bolts from them, it makes this shank length calculation very easy to do.
Just a thought...
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