Interesting. Maybe MY97 US examples came with it. If you look at C36s sold on BringaTrailer (link) you’ll see two MY97 examples that both have that bit.
Robert
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W202 C36 AMG With rare options
- Thread starter 195910
- Start date
Robert
NA cars did not have the Sport emblem nor fender blinkers. They did have the front bumper AMG logo.
Looking through my achieve, I did find many euro 1997 C36's that did have the front bumper AMG emblem and a few that did not. These emblems don't last long as they do get hammered with rocks, so its possible they were removed or removed during a bumper repaint and not reinstalled, so it is difficult to say for sure.
It is possible that some markets did not get the emblem, I have seen models in different countries get different badges for whatever reason. The W124 coupe comes to mind. Some had just a 300CE emblem (NA) and in other parts of the world it had a 300CE-24V emblem.
I think its due to the change in AMG emblem design, the bumper emblem is the older design which might explain why its not used on these later cars.
The cars I've checked were 1997 production German and Swiss market cars. In all cases I already have one! its on the left fender placed instead of the "Sport" logo.
The German spec cars are even technically different than other markets, mine has no EGR system and no Secondary air pump. USA, Swiss and other EU markets like Sweden had both systems.
The cars I've checked were 1997 production German and Swiss market cars. In all cases I already have one! its on the left fender placed instead of the "Sport" logo.
The German spec cars are even technically different than other markets, mine has no EGR system and no Secondary air pump. USA, Swiss and other EU markets like Sweden had both systems.
Not sure I follow here. The ///AMG logo was the same on the 95-97 C36. Only the rear emblem was different on the 95, as it was a one piece design, starting in 1996 the AMG logo went to individual letters. The front bumper logo never changed from the one piece design.
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Gentlemen a new update:
The simplified procedures on these late W202 are convenient. I just removed the both door panels to get to the loose door strap bolt, didn't take long and I didn't break any clips! Also have the bumpers out (really easy).
I flushed all the drainage holes and channeling, all clean. The fenders are rolled from factory, this prevented mud from accumulating and causing rust.
It did have an Air leak which affecting idle, did not expect to find it in the back of the car!
What I did notice on the drive, is a humming noise at higher RPM, its RPM/Load related. There is no clunking from the rear axle or transmission, and its not changing with direction. Is this a usual engine/exhaust sound of the Straight 6 ?? I honestly have not heard one of these cars before.
Need to Flush ATF with filter, M-B service history shows a major service carried out last year.. but no indication of ATF change.
The simplified procedures on these late W202 are convenient. I just removed the both door panels to get to the loose door strap bolt, didn't take long and I didn't break any clips! Also have the bumpers out (really easy).
I flushed all the drainage holes and channeling, all clean. The fenders are rolled from factory, this prevented mud from accumulating and causing rust.
It did have an Air leak which affecting idle, did not expect to find it in the back of the car!
What I did notice on the drive, is a humming noise at higher RPM, its RPM/Load related. There is no clunking from the rear axle or transmission, and its not changing with direction. Is this a usual engine/exhaust sound of the Straight 6 ?? I honestly have not heard one of these cars before.
Need to Flush ATF with filter, M-B service history shows a major service carried out last year.. but no indication of ATF change.
Here is some pictures of the work being carried out, a layer of brown/transparent under body wax to preserve the frame. I don't want to do that heavy wax coat like mike sanders, as the car will never see salt and that thick wax is a mess. This Liqui moly wax will preserve and still keep the frame details visible.
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Back to the thread.
Completed inspections and testing, as well as my to do list except for the following:
- AC gas a bit low.
- O2 sensor code is intermittent, will need to run tests one more time.
- Paint corrections and touch ups.
- Concours Preperation (Yes this summer)
A couple of questions for the W202 experts:
1- - I have a slight humming sound at between 2200 and 2500 RPM, its not speed nor direction related, just RPM even in P/N though less, and Its not audible at lower or higher RPM... Any Ideas?
I never heard one one of these cars before so I am not sure if its normal exhaust/engine sound or not. It has the stainless steel exhaust manifolds.
2 - I had a number of Crank ventilation hoses needing replacement, as well as small seals. I noticed the large intake connector tube for cylinders 4-5-6 is covered with oil stains though its not fresh oil. Would this be from the PCV issue? (attached image is for 1-2-3)
Thanks in advance
Completed inspections and testing, as well as my to do list except for the following:
- AC gas a bit low.
- O2 sensor code is intermittent, will need to run tests one more time.
- Paint corrections and touch ups.
- Concours Preperation (Yes this summer)
A couple of questions for the W202 experts:
1- - I have a slight humming sound at between 2200 and 2500 RPM, its not speed nor direction related, just RPM even in P/N though less, and Its not audible at lower or higher RPM... Any Ideas?
I never heard one one of these cars before so I am not sure if its normal exhaust/engine sound or not. It has the stainless steel exhaust manifolds.
2 - I had a number of Crank ventilation hoses needing replacement, as well as small seals. I noticed the large intake connector tube for cylinders 4-5-6 is covered with oil stains though its not fresh oil. Would this be from the PCV issue? (attached image is for 1-2-3)
Thanks in advance
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Yeah almost disappears. It sounds similar to a bad bearing but its not from the rear and is not speed/direction dependent. Also in Park.
Appreciate it.
I am getting the exhaust checked for leaks on Monday as well.
Did a WOT from 60 Km/h to 180 Km/h. Kick down and shifts at the red line mark. But going to do a live data check again to see the O2 sensor response.
Got more pics later. But now I need to sort out the remaining minor issues.I love itLooks cleaaaaan
I really like the practicality of the 202 here in Europe, no parking sensors nor cameras needed! While I still can't park the 213 in the driveway with less than 2 attempts : /
Similar to W204 vs W212, the 202 feels Raw and less refined compared to the W210 AMG, a penalty of the lighter/smaller car. But still the material quality is high and the interior is like new even after 25 years. The Bose system is still better than the Harmon in newer Mercedes.
I still need to learn more about M104. I did a relative compression test and things are really good, within 2-3 RPMs, no faults and all reading in spec. But I have a slight fluctuation in idle when warm. The Idle is perfect in D/R at around 600RPM, very stable. But in P the needle fluctuates some -+30 rpms. Idling at 707-731RPM. Other than that in is a really smooth idle.
While driving the car pulls well through the gears, did a WOT run from 60-180KM/H with 3 red line shifts. M104 seems to co e alive at higher rev, but still drives nicely in the revs both city and highway.
I am a bit not used to the sound, it sounds similar to the W140 S600 we had, a high pitch tone similar to a drone rather than a deep growl of the V8.
Similar to W204 vs W212, the 202 feels Raw and less refined compared to the W210 AMG, a penalty of the lighter/smaller car. But still the material quality is high and the interior is like new even after 25 years. The Bose system is still better than the Harmon in newer Mercedes.
I still need to learn more about M104. I did a relative compression test and things are really good, within 2-3 RPMs, no faults and all reading in spec. But I have a slight fluctuation in idle when warm. The Idle is perfect in D/R at around 600RPM, very stable. But in P the needle fluctuates some -+30 rpms. Idling at 707-731RPM. Other than that in is a really smooth idle.
While driving the car pulls well through the gears, did a WOT run from 60-180KM/H with 3 red line shifts. M104 seems to co e alive at higher rev, but still drives nicely in the revs both city and highway.
I am a bit not used to the sound, it sounds similar to the W140 S600 we had, a high pitch tone similar to a drone rather than a deep growl of the V8.
Some pictures:
1 - Current Adaptations, do think there is a vacuum leak.
2- Engine room (Cleaned but not concours preped)
3 - Underbody. Really clean.
4 - Where does this fit?!
5 - Interior, all original down to the floor mats. not prepped
1 - Current Adaptations, do think there is a vacuum leak.
2- Engine room (Cleaned but not concours preped)
3 - Underbody. Really clean.
4 - Where does this fit?!
5 - Interior, all original down to the floor mats. not prepped
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Would like to have a closer look at one.
C36 is special in its own way. I miss mine that's for sure.
Would love a red one to match my red c43
The C43 would be easier to diagnose (at least for me), the M113 V8 is rock solid with no over complicated or fragile mechanisms.. Just the 16 spark plugs.
The M104 is really smooth, more than an M272 V6 we owned, reminds me of the M120. But I need to understand the intake system which has mechanisms not found in the V8.
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Back to the C36.
I've been driving the car a bit, adaptation and O2 sensor is within range so I don't think we have a vacuum leak. When the car is warm the idle slightly bounces around (650RPM-+100), but really stable in gear D/R.
I also feel it revs slower in lower revs, kindly like turbo lag. But goes to Red line fine.
Does anyone have experience with the resonance valve and its symptoms?
I would like to make sure it functions correctly, but info is hard to find.
I've been driving the car a bit, adaptation and O2 sensor is within range so I don't think we have a vacuum leak. When the car is warm the idle slightly bounces around (650RPM-+100), but really stable in gear D/R.
I also feel it revs slower in lower revs, kindly like turbo lag. But goes to Red line fine.
Does anyone have experience with the resonance valve and its symptoms?
I would like to make sure it functions correctly, but info is hard to find.
@PJmak, PJ, you missed your shot at a RED C36. One with a 5 Speed Manual conversion albeit w/ about 177K miles on the clock.
Anyway it sold for $11,828.00 on the MB Market Auction Site on June 11th
Even w/ the mileage it still looked pretty nice.
Edit: See post #125 above
Hey man I saw that. It looked nice but a friend of a friend looked at it in person and said it had paint issues. Usually thats not a problem but if you are paying top dollar the car has to be nice.@PJmak, PJ, you missed your shot at a RED C36. One with a 5 Speed Manual conversion albeit w/ about 177K miles on the clock.
Anyway it sold for $11,828.00 on the MB Market Auction Site on June 11th
Even w/ the mileage it still looked pretty nice.
Edit: See post #125 above
Also it was all the way on east coast and Im in California. Something will come up localy. Timing is not great now. My wife is due any day
You mean its connected to the ABS module ?
Update: I will disassemble the intake flap to clean. I don't see any vacuum leaks, ( I didn't check the AC vacuum yet ).
Really smooth Idle in gear and when increasing rev. Only observation is on Idle when revving in P.
The second observation is the slower rev at lower range compared to the higher range. I can feel the car revs much quicker and stronger after 3k RPM. Kinda like turbo la !
It constantly starts from 1st gear and has a 3.07 rear end, so I expect a strong pickup.
Really smooth Idle in gear and when increasing rev. Only observation is on Idle when revving in P.
The second observation is the slower rev at lower range compared to the higher range. I can feel the car revs much quicker and stronger after 3k RPM. Kinda like turbo la !
It constantly starts from 1st gear and has a 3.07 rear end, so I expect a strong pickup.
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Thinknyou are right. Underneath driver side headlight
![[500Eboard] Resized_Resized_20210329_174256.jpeg](/forums/data/attachments/132/132287-de0a766ced9419b704b38f1e24453d48.jpg?hash=3gp2bO2UGb)
Yeah this is the same connector and insulation.
Well it goes right there into that canister. Does yours not have a place for it on the canister?
ummm, need to check tomorrow.
The wiring on this car is more similar to a C43 than the older C36.
Just read a thread on Banzworld. Apparently the kick after 3500 RPM is one of the M104 characteristics. The cam timing adjustment (similar to M113) and the resonance valve/flap both kick in at 3500RPM giving higher torque at higher RPM.
Now to determine if the flap is closing properly at lower RPM, or if this is something else like a bad coil/leads
Now to determine if the flap is closing properly at lower RPM, or if this is something else like a bad coil/leads
Mine is a c43
Picture 1: Resonance valve removed, wasn't really dirty : | .. Bosch ME2.0 cars have no vacuum actuated elements, just the electric connector.
Picture 2: Inside the M104 intake, there was engine oil inside the valve recess. PCV leak is already fixed, so I don't expect anymore oil contamination
Picture 3: Cleaned valve, not much of a difference IMO.
But it was a good opportunity to spray LM intake cleaner into the intake manifold and then the throttle valve. Left it to soak a little bit then started the engine. Smoke started to come out then it cleared, continued to stray into the throttle valve.
Engine runs smoother and quieter, but I feel we can still do better. Nice kick after 3500RPM.
Picture 4: I am starting to suspect one of the coils, one is 2020 production, one is 2014 but the third is 1999. Starts, idles and warms up really well ( I don't suspect a vacuum leak!) but after a drive you notice the idle becoming less stable.
I had no issues on the live data, compression and adaptation, but noticed cylinders 1&6 recording faults when warm if I blip the throttle. I swapped around the coils with cylinder 2&5 and check the wires and plugs.
Will report on the findings tomorrow after a drive and live data check.
Picture 2: Inside the M104 intake, there was engine oil inside the valve recess. PCV leak is already fixed, so I don't expect anymore oil contamination
Picture 3: Cleaned valve, not much of a difference IMO.
But it was a good opportunity to spray LM intake cleaner into the intake manifold and then the throttle valve. Left it to soak a little bit then started the engine. Smoke started to come out then it cleared, continued to stray into the throttle valve.
Engine runs smoother and quieter, but I feel we can still do better. Nice kick after 3500RPM.
Picture 4: I am starting to suspect one of the coils, one is 2020 production, one is 2014 but the third is 1999. Starts, idles and warms up really well ( I don't suspect a vacuum leak!) but after a drive you notice the idle becoming less stable.
I had no issues on the live data, compression and adaptation, but noticed cylinders 1&6 recording faults when warm if I blip the throttle. I swapped around the coils with cylinder 2&5 and check the wires and plugs.
Will report on the findings tomorrow after a drive and live data check.
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Nice Find. 0-60 in 6.2Sec.
Here is the Model Year 1997 catalogue featuring the 5-Speed C36: 7-1996 (D)
Ok, not what I expected. Switching the coils and running the car all day in 30c ambient temperature did not make things more clear.
- No fault codes except MAF because I unplugged it yesterday.
- Live data shows everything in spec.
- Smooth running live data does not show change in cylinders speeds.
- Tested the AC vacuum hoses by disconnecting first, mixture went lean and stayed there. Then I plugged the hose which caused the mixture to stabilize. So no vacuum leak is affecting Mixture and Adaptation is at 1.02.
- While testing the injectors (on/off), the O2 sensor recorded a fault and misfires on all cylinders, not sure if this is normal or not. All codes clear by them selves by switching ignition on/off.
*I did notice the Lambda switching is slow unlike the 500E and newer cars. The O2 sensor oscillations don't run
Can this slow reacting O2 sensor be the issue?
What would be the symptoms of a clogged injector on the M104? I don't smell fuel and there is absolutely no hesitation.
- No fault codes except MAF because I unplugged it yesterday.
- Live data shows everything in spec.
- Smooth running live data does not show change in cylinders speeds.
- Tested the AC vacuum hoses by disconnecting first, mixture went lean and stayed there. Then I plugged the hose which caused the mixture to stabilize. So no vacuum leak is affecting Mixture and Adaptation is at 1.02.
- While testing the injectors (on/off), the O2 sensor recorded a fault and misfires on all cylinders, not sure if this is normal or not. All codes clear by them selves by switching ignition on/off.
*I did notice the Lambda switching is slow unlike the 500E and newer cars. The O2 sensor oscillations don't run
Can this slow reacting O2 sensor be the issue?
What would be the symptoms of a clogged injector on the M104? I don't smell fuel and there is absolutely no hesitation.
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Update,
A lambda test was carried out, it seems to have a slow Lambda response and Lambda is slightly higher. Still no codes or out of spec values : /
Going to change a couple of parts I am suspecting.
Driving the car in different conditions and driving styles will make any faulty or weak components apparent. Not in this case : |
Did find out the AC is leaking, going to be an expensive week until everything in sorted.
A lambda test was carried out, it seems to have a slow Lambda response and Lambda is slightly higher. Still no codes or out of spec values : /
Going to change a couple of parts I am suspecting.
Driving the car in different conditions and driving styles will make any faulty or weak components apparent. Not in this case : |
Did find out the AC is leaking, going to be an expensive week until everything in sorted.
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