Postby gerryvz on Sat Feb 14, 2009 11:03 pm
I updated the wiki page on replacing the cabin air filters with a series of 25 photo illustrations and some text that describes the process.
This is something that every 94 or 95 owner should do every couple or three years.
Click here to view the Wiki page on the cabin filter.
Hope this helps. Total time is about 1-1.5 hours.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 2phast on Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:47 am
In the event anyone wants to retro-fit their pre 94 with the filters, this is a good instructional doc on how to do it.
http://www.2phast.com/500e/techdocs/124 ... /page1.htm
2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E
===================================
Postby 195910 on Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:32 pm
2phast wrote:In the event anyone wants to retro-fit their pre 94 with the filters, this is a good instructional doc on how to do it.
http://www.2phast.com/500e/techdocs/124 ... /page1.htm
Would like to fit one of those filters on my 91, But you ave to tae half the car apart !. Too much work !
195910
===================================
Postby gsxr on Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:36 pm
Rik, I really don't recommend trying to retrofit the 94-95 filters on to a 86-93 vehicle. When installed as shown in that Japanese document on your website, it will interfere with the main air flap (not allow it to close all the way). I tried this once, applying vacuum to both chambers of the main air flap pods, to see the flap fully closed (wish I had taken photos). That's why MB had to fully re-design the entire heater box, including making the fan cages smaller, to allow room for the filters above the box.
Instead, I would recommend the JR Fitler solution, which mounts externally. It's a little more expensive but probably works equally as well, and only requires a fraction of the effort. I have these on my two pre-94 cars:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
===================================
Postby 195910 on Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:01 pm
Hi Dave.
Could you please provide more info regarding these filters (supplier, price , fitting instruction, how well they work)?
Do they fit behind the little black grill, or on top of them ?
regards
195910
===================================
Postby gerryvz on Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:34 pm
Mercedes used a solution of this type (Dave's filters) as early as the 1960s on the W111/112 and W108/109 cars.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 2phast on Mon Feb 16, 2009 4:25 am
gsxr wrote:Rik, I really don't recommend trying to retrofit the 94-95 filters on to a 86-93 vehicle. When installed as shown in that Japanese document on your website, it will interfere with the main air flap (not allow it to close all the way). I tried this once, applying vacuum to both chambers of the main air flap pods, to see the flap fully closed (wish I had taken photos). That's why MB had to fully re-design the entire heater box, including making the fan cages smaller, to allow room for the filters above the box.
Instead, I would recommend the JR Fitler solution, which mounts externally. It's a little more expensive but probably works equally as well, and only requires a fraction of the effort. I have these on my two pre-94 cars:
Image
Image
Image
I didn't have any problems with the filters or clearance or any functionality problems.
I do like the JR filters, they are just impossible to find and too expensive.
2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E
===================================
Postby 195910 on Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:11 pm
I found the JR filters website, French company, Might give them a call to as about distributors.
Did you buy them from japan ?
195910
===================================
Postby gsxr on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:52 am
2phast wrote: I didn't have any problems with the filters or clearance or any functionality problems.
Well sure, but you also didn't apply vacuum to both ports on the main air flaps with everything taken apart to observe the operation before & after installing the filter - now did you?
2phast wrote:I do like the JR filters, they are just impossible to find and too expensive.
You can buy direct from JR, but yes, they are expensive.
===================================
Postby gsxr on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:55 am
195910 wrote:Could you please provide more info regarding these filters (supplier, price , fitting instruction, how well they work)? Do they fit behind the little black grill, or on top of them?
They snap in place over the black plastic inlet. They work fairly well, AFAICT... they get dirty, which I suppose means they're doing something, and keeping dirt out of the evaporator. You can buy them direct from JR in France, but they're not cheap. It's probably better to buy 5 or 10 and then re-sell the extras to your MB buddies to offset the cost of wire transfer payment, etc. They are small & light so the shipping cost is almost the same for 1 or 10:
From: INFO JR <info@jrfilters.com>
Hello
We have no distributor in the USA.
We can send the filter directly to you.
Filter #421 is 34.00 euros.
+ sending cost of 21.00 euros.
Best regards
Corinne Barthod
===================================
Postby carzonee500 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:19 am
gerryvz wrote:I updated the wiki page on replacing the cabin air filters with a series of 25 photo illustrations and some text that describes the process.
This is something that every 94 or 95 owner should do every couple or three years.
Click here to view the Wiki page on the cabin filter.
Hope this helps. Total time is about 1-1.5 hours.
Cheers,
Gerry
I really like it's clear like a brand-new one engine compartment.
what the name of the company aluminum stretch between cups of shock absorbers?
regards
w124 E500 '95
Alfa Romeo 155 Q4
===================================
Postby 195910 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:27 pm
gsxr wrote:They snap in place over the black plastic inlet. They work fairly well, AFAICT... they get dirty, which I suppose means they're doing something, and keeping dirt out of the evaporator. You can buy them direct from JR in France, but they're not cheap. It's probably better to buy 5 or 10 and then re-sell the extras to your MB buddies to offset the cost of wire transfer payment, etc. They are small & light so the shipping cost is almost the same for 1 or 10:
From: INFO JR <info@jrfilters.com>
Hello
We have no distributor in the USA.
We can send the filter directly to you.
Filter #421 is 34.00 euros.
+ sending cost of 21.00 euros.
Best regards
Corinne Barthod
Thanks for the info. I'll try contact them, to see if they have a distributor in our area or in europe (other than France).
Might be able to find it cheaper.
Regards
195910
===================================
Postby gerryvz on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:51 pm
The maker of the aluminum cross-strut support bars is Wiechers Sport of Germany. It is specific to the 500E and 400E (V-8) cars. They are not all that expensive; we had it shipped here to the US from Germany and it was not too expensive. This was about 5 years ago.
If you Google you ought to be able to find it.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 195910 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:00 pm
gerryvz wrote:The maker of the aluminum cross-strut support bars is Wiechers Sport of Germany. It is specific to the 500E and 400E (V-8) cars. They are not all that expensive; we had it shipped here to the US from Germany and it was not too expensive. This was about 5 years ago.
If you Google you ought to be able to find it.
Cheers,
Gerry
Hi Gerry.
I just checked out their website. Nicely priced !
Though I am not familiar with their effects. is it to reduce body roll ?
regards
195910
===================================
Postby gsxr on Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:50 pm
195910 wrote:Hi Gerry.
I just checked out their website. Nicely priced ! Though I am not familiar with their effects. is it to reduce body roll?
It tightens up the front end just a hair... similar to installing a slightly larger (+1mm) sway bar. I have one on my 1987 300D.
===================================
Postby gerryvz on Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:27 pm
It tightens up the TOP END of the strut towers and keeps things stiff from the top end. I think it's a nice complement to the bottom-end reinforcements (i.e. larger anti-roll bars). I've had them in VWs and such that I've owned in past eons and when I can get them, I install them.
Of course, some cars need them more than others. MBs are pretty structurally sound so probably don't need them as much as other cars do. Incidentally, mine may be coming up for sale in the near future as I will be purchasing and installing Austin's upper strut mounts. I think those will have far more benefit than any crossbar.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 195910 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:31 pm
Thanks for the info guys. does give a unusual appearance to the engine compartment. nice to see something different.
regards
195910
===================================
Postby Glen on Sun May 03, 2009 3:55 pm
What do you mean your cabin steams up? Is the a/c on or off?
I don't know if the JR filters have charcoal or not, if they do then they filter dust and odor, if not, then only dust.
===================================
Postby Chappardababbar on Sun May 03, 2009 4:08 pm
Glen wrote:What do you mean your cabin steams up? Is the a/c on or off?
I don't know if the JR filters have charcoal or not, if they do then they filter dust and odor, if not, then only dust.
Thanks - I think I'll get a set.
What I mean is, as soon as it drops below about 10 degrees celcius, when I have my windows up and A/C off, the windows steam up very quickly. By that I mean I wouldn't be able to see anything within 10 minutes. Also, I start to get condensation between the two pieces of glass of the rear window.
Chappardababbar
===================================
Postby Glen on Sun May 03, 2009 4:22 pm
At that temp, the a/c should dry the air enough inside the car to keep the windows clear. What happens when you use defrost mode?
===================================
Postby Chappardababbar on Sun May 03, 2009 4:45 pm
Glen wrote:At that temp, the a/c should dry the air enough inside the car to keep the windows clear. What happens when you use defrost mode?
What I mean is the windows steam up WITHOUT a/c. As soon as I put the a/c on it clears everything up nicely. When I drive my dad's Honda in the same weather conditions, the car does not require the a/c to be on as there is no condensation. It's not such a big deal.
I don't think I have the defrost a/c mode as I have the twin dual zone dials. If you're referring to rear window defrost then that doesn't work on my car. I just get one feeble little clear line across the middle about 1cm in width. Does the whole rear window need to be replaced to get this to work again?
Chappardababbar
===================================
Postby Glen on Sun May 03, 2009 7:48 pm
Oh, I understand now. To minimize condensation on the inside without using a/c, make sure you are using fresh outside air, do not use the recirculation mode. You may also want to vent the sunroof or lower a couple windows just a bit. The reason for the condensation is the drastic differential in temperature between the cabin and outside. Once those equalize, your windows should stay clear.
I updated the wiki page on replacing the cabin air filters with a series of 25 photo illustrations and some text that describes the process.
This is something that every 94 or 95 owner should do every couple or three years.
Click here to view the Wiki page on the cabin filter.
Hope this helps. Total time is about 1-1.5 hours.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 2phast on Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:47 am
In the event anyone wants to retro-fit their pre 94 with the filters, this is a good instructional doc on how to do it.
http://www.2phast.com/500e/techdocs/124 ... /page1.htm
2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E
===================================
Postby 195910 on Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:32 pm
2phast wrote:In the event anyone wants to retro-fit their pre 94 with the filters, this is a good instructional doc on how to do it.
http://www.2phast.com/500e/techdocs/124 ... /page1.htm
Would like to fit one of those filters on my 91, But you ave to tae half the car apart !. Too much work !
195910
===================================
Postby gsxr on Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:36 pm
Rik, I really don't recommend trying to retrofit the 94-95 filters on to a 86-93 vehicle. When installed as shown in that Japanese document on your website, it will interfere with the main air flap (not allow it to close all the way). I tried this once, applying vacuum to both chambers of the main air flap pods, to see the flap fully closed (wish I had taken photos). That's why MB had to fully re-design the entire heater box, including making the fan cages smaller, to allow room for the filters above the box.
Instead, I would recommend the JR Fitler solution, which mounts externally. It's a little more expensive but probably works equally as well, and only requires a fraction of the effort. I have these on my two pre-94 cars:
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1995 E420 (W.I.P.)
1994 E500 (Q-ship)
1993 300D (Sportline)
1987 300D (Sportline Stage 2)
1987 300D (R.I.P)
Click here for my website photos, documents, and movies.
===================================
Postby 195910 on Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:01 pm
Hi Dave.
Could you please provide more info regarding these filters (supplier, price , fitting instruction, how well they work)?
Do they fit behind the little black grill, or on top of them ?
regards
195910
===================================
Postby gerryvz on Sun Feb 15, 2009 11:34 pm
Mercedes used a solution of this type (Dave's filters) as early as the 1960s on the W111/112 and W108/109 cars.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 2phast on Mon Feb 16, 2009 4:25 am
gsxr wrote:Rik, I really don't recommend trying to retrofit the 94-95 filters on to a 86-93 vehicle. When installed as shown in that Japanese document on your website, it will interfere with the main air flap (not allow it to close all the way). I tried this once, applying vacuum to both chambers of the main air flap pods, to see the flap fully closed (wish I had taken photos). That's why MB had to fully re-design the entire heater box, including making the fan cages smaller, to allow room for the filters above the box.
Instead, I would recommend the JR Fitler solution, which mounts externally. It's a little more expensive but probably works equally as well, and only requires a fraction of the effort. I have these on my two pre-94 cars:
Image
Image
Image
I didn't have any problems with the filters or clearance or any functionality problems.
I do like the JR filters, they are just impossible to find and too expensive.
2000 CLK32k & 1993 500E
===================================
Postby 195910 on Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:11 pm
I found the JR filters website, French company, Might give them a call to as about distributors.
Did you buy them from japan ?
195910
===================================
Postby gsxr on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:52 am
2phast wrote: I didn't have any problems with the filters or clearance or any functionality problems.
Well sure, but you also didn't apply vacuum to both ports on the main air flaps with everything taken apart to observe the operation before & after installing the filter - now did you?
2phast wrote:I do like the JR filters, they are just impossible to find and too expensive.
You can buy direct from JR, but yes, they are expensive.
===================================
Postby gsxr on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:55 am
195910 wrote:Could you please provide more info regarding these filters (supplier, price , fitting instruction, how well they work)? Do they fit behind the little black grill, or on top of them?
They snap in place over the black plastic inlet. They work fairly well, AFAICT... they get dirty, which I suppose means they're doing something, and keeping dirt out of the evaporator. You can buy them direct from JR in France, but they're not cheap. It's probably better to buy 5 or 10 and then re-sell the extras to your MB buddies to offset the cost of wire transfer payment, etc. They are small & light so the shipping cost is almost the same for 1 or 10:
From: INFO JR <info@jrfilters.com>
Hello
We have no distributor in the USA.
We can send the filter directly to you.
Filter #421 is 34.00 euros.
+ sending cost of 21.00 euros.
Best regards
Corinne Barthod
===================================
Postby carzonee500 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:19 am
gerryvz wrote:I updated the wiki page on replacing the cabin air filters with a series of 25 photo illustrations and some text that describes the process.
This is something that every 94 or 95 owner should do every couple or three years.
Click here to view the Wiki page on the cabin filter.
Hope this helps. Total time is about 1-1.5 hours.
Cheers,
Gerry
I really like it's clear like a brand-new one engine compartment.
what the name of the company aluminum stretch between cups of shock absorbers?
regards
w124 E500 '95
Alfa Romeo 155 Q4
===================================
Postby 195910 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:27 pm
gsxr wrote:They snap in place over the black plastic inlet. They work fairly well, AFAICT... they get dirty, which I suppose means they're doing something, and keeping dirt out of the evaporator. You can buy them direct from JR in France, but they're not cheap. It's probably better to buy 5 or 10 and then re-sell the extras to your MB buddies to offset the cost of wire transfer payment, etc. They are small & light so the shipping cost is almost the same for 1 or 10:
From: INFO JR <info@jrfilters.com>
Hello
We have no distributor in the USA.
We can send the filter directly to you.
Filter #421 is 34.00 euros.
+ sending cost of 21.00 euros.
Best regards
Corinne Barthod
Thanks for the info. I'll try contact them, to see if they have a distributor in our area or in europe (other than France).
Might be able to find it cheaper.
Regards
195910
===================================
Postby gerryvz on Tue Feb 17, 2009 4:51 pm
The maker of the aluminum cross-strut support bars is Wiechers Sport of Germany. It is specific to the 500E and 400E (V-8) cars. They are not all that expensive; we had it shipped here to the US from Germany and it was not too expensive. This was about 5 years ago.
If you Google you ought to be able to find it.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 195910 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:00 pm
gerryvz wrote:The maker of the aluminum cross-strut support bars is Wiechers Sport of Germany. It is specific to the 500E and 400E (V-8) cars. They are not all that expensive; we had it shipped here to the US from Germany and it was not too expensive. This was about 5 years ago.
If you Google you ought to be able to find it.
Cheers,
Gerry
Hi Gerry.
I just checked out their website. Nicely priced !
Though I am not familiar with their effects. is it to reduce body roll ?
regards
195910
===================================
Postby gsxr on Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:50 pm
195910 wrote:Hi Gerry.
I just checked out their website. Nicely priced ! Though I am not familiar with their effects. is it to reduce body roll?
It tightens up the front end just a hair... similar to installing a slightly larger (+1mm) sway bar. I have one on my 1987 300D.
===================================
Postby gerryvz on Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:27 pm
It tightens up the TOP END of the strut towers and keeps things stiff from the top end. I think it's a nice complement to the bottom-end reinforcements (i.e. larger anti-roll bars). I've had them in VWs and such that I've owned in past eons and when I can get them, I install them.
Of course, some cars need them more than others. MBs are pretty structurally sound so probably don't need them as much as other cars do. Incidentally, mine may be coming up for sale in the near future as I will be purchasing and installing Austin's upper strut mounts. I think those will have far more benefit than any crossbar.
Cheers,
Gerry
===================================
Postby 195910 on Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:31 pm
Thanks for the info guys. does give a unusual appearance to the engine compartment. nice to see something different.
regards
195910
===================================
Postby Glen on Sun May 03, 2009 3:55 pm
What do you mean your cabin steams up? Is the a/c on or off?
I don't know if the JR filters have charcoal or not, if they do then they filter dust and odor, if not, then only dust.
===================================
Postby Chappardababbar on Sun May 03, 2009 4:08 pm
Glen wrote:What do you mean your cabin steams up? Is the a/c on or off?
I don't know if the JR filters have charcoal or not, if they do then they filter dust and odor, if not, then only dust.
Thanks - I think I'll get a set.
What I mean is, as soon as it drops below about 10 degrees celcius, when I have my windows up and A/C off, the windows steam up very quickly. By that I mean I wouldn't be able to see anything within 10 minutes. Also, I start to get condensation between the two pieces of glass of the rear window.
Chappardababbar
===================================
Postby Glen on Sun May 03, 2009 4:22 pm
At that temp, the a/c should dry the air enough inside the car to keep the windows clear. What happens when you use defrost mode?
===================================
Postby Chappardababbar on Sun May 03, 2009 4:45 pm
Glen wrote:At that temp, the a/c should dry the air enough inside the car to keep the windows clear. What happens when you use defrost mode?
What I mean is the windows steam up WITHOUT a/c. As soon as I put the a/c on it clears everything up nicely. When I drive my dad's Honda in the same weather conditions, the car does not require the a/c to be on as there is no condensation. It's not such a big deal.
I don't think I have the defrost a/c mode as I have the twin dual zone dials. If you're referring to rear window defrost then that doesn't work on my car. I just get one feeble little clear line across the middle about 1cm in width. Does the whole rear window need to be replaced to get this to work again?
Chappardababbar
===================================
Postby Glen on Sun May 03, 2009 7:48 pm
Oh, I understand now. To minimize condensation on the inside without using a/c, make sure you are using fresh outside air, do not use the recirculation mode. You may also want to vent the sunroof or lower a couple windows just a bit. The reason for the condensation is the drastic differential in temperature between the cabin and outside. Once those equalize, your windows should stay clear.
